Bon Aire Ups The Ante In Evaporation Cooling

Duh, it's called imported competition for a reason

You aren't going to out cheap the Chinese, nor persuade enough consumers that quality really is worth the extra upfront expense.

Time to differentiate...but only if it can be protected for long enough to make it worthwhile.

An example might be teaming/licensing tech from a company (that can defend their patent) on the combined dessicant wheel, evaporative cooler systems or or similar dessicant fluid membrane evaporative cooler systems, that would not only improve evaporative cooler performance in dry areas, but actually create a swamp cooler that could actually work in the swamp.

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There is a huge untapped market in high humidity areas and for automobiles. The lack of compression makes the prospects of inexpensive and energy efficient cooling seem realistic.

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Innovate or retire.

I always like to read the reviews in Amazon....usually gives a nice cross section of opinion...

https://www.amazon.com/Bon-Aire-Durango-3-Speed-Side-Draft-Evaporative/dp/B00FWZIASM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I have become a big fan of uv-c air purification....After there was a discussion on air filters here some time back I ordered several of these devices, 4 actually, and was amazed at how well they worked....they almost instantly remove any odors from the air...and there have been no ill effects or downside that I have found....

example

One word: Coolerado.

This should be the gold standard of all evaporative cooling.

I'm thinking this costs a bit more....$$$

It might cost a bit more, but it pays off compared to VCC air in these locations with lower than 50% average humidity.

Also, what 99% of people that look at this fail to realize is that Coolerado does not raise interior humidity to near saturated values, it produces cool air with only a slight increase in RH% as would a VCC system, because you cannot cool air without increasing the humidity, unless you sub-cool it, and then warm it back up a few degrees after removing the condensate formed.

True for relative humidity...unless starting at 100% RH....or using a dessicant wheel....or....

Very interesting.

I installed a Bon Aire Durango window unit in one of my rental properties. The tenant tells me that it's too strong most of the time and she uses the rooftop regular evap cooler most of the time.

I bought one of these window units for my own home last year. The Durango's cooling impressive - much more effective than the standard big box evap units. The case is plastic, so there's no tank or side panel corrosion - typically what kills a regular evap unit. A downside is that it does feel a bit flimsy and a lot of waste water is generated -more than a standard evap unit. The pads are a hard paper and I've heard the cost is high.

My gut feeling is that the new Bon Aire box cooler will be much more effective than the old style coolers. I'm also going to guess that they're much quieter too.

I've installed about 40 of the Bon Aire Durango units, the pads are produced from a cellulose material, constructed like multiple cardboard sheets. PPS packaging distributes a generic replacement set, that available at Tru Value stores is just under $50.00 usd.

When you purchase one of these units, there will be a parts bag inside the box, 2 formed, painted steel brackets are inside. Although the instructions direct the installer to secure the bottom edge of the cooler, using the brackets to a window ledge the cooler has a tendency to rock on its center of gravity axis.

I secure the cooler using Strong Tite brackets at both the top and bottom. In most cases it is necessary to construct a 20 1/2" box with 2x4's or 2x3's. You will see in the instructions that use of a level is necessary, the pictures indicate positioning the level against the back and side of the cooler, this method is incorrect.

To accurately set level, remove the back cover ( that which holds the media pads ) . Using a 3' level, place the level width wise across the water basin ( this can be known as Y ) When the cooler tunnel is set within the 2x4 / 2x3 box you have constructed within the wall or window opening, shims can be used to obtain a zero degree or level for Y.

During this same time, a torpedo level is placed lengthwise in the bottom of the tunnel ( this can be known as X. At the bottom of the coolers base there are two holes for mounting a length of wood ( I use a 36" long 2x4 ) , using this method it is easy to obtain a zero degree for the X axis. Then secure the cooler with brackets on the top and bottom of the tunnel, two on top, two on bottom.

Both Y & X are critical, if Y is incorrect the pads won't be equally saturated, if X is incorrect, water droplets can be drawn in to the dwelling due to fan pressure. If X & Y are extreme, float control will be affected and pump cavitation can occur.

An area of note: last week I installed a Durango, the float that came with the unit was an incorrect part, the float shipped was intended for the 5000/7200 DD units, this float will not work in a durango window unit as the control arm and bellows are offset. My first thought was that a common assembly line is being used at the factory to assemble both the down draft units and the window units.

Sounds like the QC manager is failing at his/her job, and the assemblers cannot tell the difference. Sounds like a product looking for a reason to fail (IMHO). I would not buy one, based on your description.

I installed our units with 2x4's placed between the Durango and the house outside wall. I agree 100% with your explanation of X and Y axis and being level. The instructions included with the unit mention those flimsy brackets - I have no idea how someone could install the unit without additional support.

This year, Home Depot now sells one of those hose bibs with a built in tap for the cooler line. Prior to this, I would solder a fitting to the 1/2" pipe (before the hose bib) for the cooler line.