Anyone Familiar with OBD2 Pinouts (Auto) On Board Diagnostics?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqVuwN7dy5w&t=8s

That thing is a sheer shear shredder.

Surely that cannot be the final answer, but for some cars yes.

So this "immobilizer active" warning...that only appears after "ABS failure stop safely"...right? Sounds like a safety lockout to me.

Found on http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?102546-Brake-Failure-Stop-Safely

Re: Brake Failure - Stop Safely

{Well, Volvo regional rep said the first thing to try is for technician to ensure the cold soldered module connections are solid - and in fact they should be severed and hard soldered back together. Apparently this has solved the same problem on cars previously exhibiting this type failure. This will take 4 to 5 hours of labor to accomplish.

I assume Service Dept will hand car back to me after doing the hard soldering job and driving car about for several days to ensure there's no repeat of the problem.}

Another forum about "immobilizer active":

http://myfastgti.com/volkswagen/threads/20671-Immobilizer-Active!

{ Immobilizer Active!

I came out of church this evening unlocked my car (using my fob) put the key in the ignition and started the engine. Much to my surprise there is a message that reads "Immobilizer Active!" and the car shuts off... What does that mean?! I tried a few more times before I got the idea to unhook my battery...that didn't help. So I got online and searched and forums were saying things about VAGCOMs and Dealership trips, which is not something that was helpful in my pressent state. Then I got the bright idea to try using my key in the door. I turned it first counter clockwise then clockwise then counter clockwise again (unlock, lock, unlock) I prayed to Jesus and tried the ignition again...EUREKA!!! I drove it home. I don't know if it was the praying or the key turning or both that made it work but I'm thankful that it did!
Hope this helps someone in the future.}

It seems most of the ones responding to this individual pointed out the power of prayer.

In your problem as well as his, the issue may be in one or four different areas.

This can happen if your car is cold or hot, although it can happen more often if the car is cold.

You put the key in the ignition, turn the key to start and the immobilizer indicator flashes, which it Should, then you continue to turn the key to start, the engine starts and after 1-3 seconds the immobilizer light turns off. This is normal operation.

Problem areas : Worn key, worn ignition switch, fault in serial data circuit or it's connections, intermittent fault in a sensor that sends a data signal to either the body control module or the engine control module.

On some vehicles, there is not a fault per say, rather an operation has been performed before the Tamper or Auto Learn timer has completed it's duty timed cycle.

When an operation has been performed before the Timer has completed it's duty cycle, a system can go into " learn " or " acquire " mode. It may take up to 10 or more minutes and or a specified number of key cycles to reset the password lock enable / disable system.

From what I understand, not being an engineer and such, is the timers receive a data signal for an algorithm that creates a timed reference ( I think ) anyway youze can explain it better than me.

On my car, this is what it does (2007 Chevy Colorado ) : various sensors send information, including the crank position and the coolant sensor.

I have checked both of these sensors cold and hot and operation is within parameters.

If I drive the truck a short distance, before the dashboard temperature guage is just less than halfway, then turn the truck off, ( like a quick jaunt to the grocery store ) then the truck may or may not go into pass lock disable mode.

If it does, I have to wait 10 minutes with the key in the on position for the body control module to reset the Tamper timer.

I have learned how to fool or hack the learn mode. I turn the key to start the truck and let the starter motor spin for 2 seconds, then turn the key to the off position, wait 3 seconds, then turn the key to start the truck, wait 2 seconds, depress the throttle by wire to the floor and the truck starts at normal idle speed.

To REALLY diagnose problems you commonly need to know the OEM factory codes -- which are NOT published -- and not just the published SAE codes.

Or gut the thing, and make a real car out of it?

Sounds like you have a bad ground connection somewhere....page 27

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/533932/Volvo-S40.html

Bad ground, or all the "cold" soldered joints need to be re-worked as hot solder.

Either way I would just get another car.....not a Volvo....

Or quit dropping those OBD2 peanuts down into the console.

Yeah, new car.....the smell.

So... Computer Controlled Dwell time: not relevant to any of my problems?

Maybe to the low output power aspect??? Doesn't dwell time have to do with ignition?

Maybe if that was the only symptom, but I'm hoping I've only got one real problem, so, I think I'm just going to ignore those signals.

When you get your OBDII Blue tooth gadget, you'll be able to clear the trouble codes and start over.

Of course, they may come right back.

By the way: I looked at your link again and realised that what I've got on pins 3 and 11 is Ford's Diagnostic Communications Link, not Chrysler's Computer Controlled Dwell.

I think DCL is ancient and they probably included it so that people with the old scanners could still access the diagnostics.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On_Board_Diagnostics, including additional information with links, KBM website

OBD-II CAN bus

CAN bus used in Ford, Mazda, Volvo and most other cars since 2004. The CAN protocol is a popular standard outside of the automotive industry and is making significant in-roads into the OBD-II market share. By 2008, all vehicles sold in the US will be required to implement the CAN bus, thus eliminating the ambiguity of the existing five signalling protocols.

This might be OT, but does anybody remember when there was a cable that went from the gas pedal to the carburetor?

And one for the manual choke.
And one for the mechanical speedometer.

Yes, I do.

Cables? I almost remember when the accelerator foot was connected directly to the road:-

Me too. Those always seemed to work with 100% reliability, until they wore out (usually after the second or third engine). LOL

If your Volvo is a deisel.. Which is possible then you need a DPF. cleanser..I have had the same problem and now dose mine on a regular basis.. You will need to do a run or 150-200 miles to get it clean Halfords sell the one I use comes in a purple bottle.. Other thing to check are the hoses in your air system after the turbo.. Even the smallest leak will give you big problems..You wont get any info from the OBD system as there is no sensor to measure it

Why would a blocked particulate filter cause all those different problems to be reported by diagnostics?

...one thing leads to another...

Look on the bright side...the car still has scrap value.

Knock on effect.. So if your Maff is saying one thing and your AMP .sensor is saying another your ECU will deliver more fuel.. Your brake problems .. Look at cleansing the encoder rings on each wheel make sure they have not picked up any stray metalics..clear the codes down and do a hard reset of your ecu..door open key in pos 1 foot hard down on go pedal.. Sure you can find the right sequence somewhere..otherwise don't panic.. Its a VOLVO..

Had a very similar problem with my car, same model same year same fault same messages. After many stops and messages and errors that killed the engine. One day the car had the good sense to die about 100 yards from my Volvo main dealer so I went in and "had a word or two" because they were supposed deal with the problem at the last service. Out came the guy I think was the workshop foreman. Told him the sad tail and he nodded. He then went over to the car and dived into the passenger foot well and revealed a rack of multiplugs from under the glove locker he took each plug out and carefully replaced it making sure it was firmly in and secured and then told me to try the car now andit started like a charm and has been as good as gold for the past 5 months. I'm assuming poor connections but good enough for the diagnostics, with the car still in the garage, not to see any problem. Hope this helps.

comes down to cold soldered joint style versus hard soldered. Live and learn, or unplug and re-plug about every week/month, etc.

Both my normal garage, and, the one I subsequently took it to did exactly that. The guy at my normal garage said that he was only guessing and that I should take it to a Volvo diagnostics expert: they did the same thing and unplugged/plugged lots of other connectors in various places.

I've had no problems since the morning the AA man followed me to my normal garage, so, maybe he fixed it.

I'll carry a can of contact cleaner.

The problem with all the electronics in modern cars is that they rely on the electronics working. One bit fails, it all goes belly up and generally intermittently, and generally when it's cold and wet.
What do all the electronics have in common?
A chassis ground for the return current path!
Find and clean as many of the chassis ground points as you can (or at least the ones near the engine management and control systems).
Of course a garage can't find it using a diagnostic system because that's part of the system that is screwed.
I reserve the right to be wrong, but cleaning up a few earths won't do any harm, and may well work... anyway the exercise will do you good
Good luck.
Del
PS. My Nissan Micra has silly prob's with it's "intelligent" (cough splutter) central locking etc, and the above procedure cured it.

Cars running on Windows 10? God I hope not.

Car has to be rebooted for each new session, and the information input (email) keeps getting logged jammed with promotional emails. Car control system suddenly crashes (frequently or not) for no apparent reason. Files just disappear, because Windows 10 uses up all the GB's of memory.

No problem:-

Randall, have you seen this page. Can you tell us, which engine identification number you have.

And which code you received on your scanner.

Will do when I receive the scanner (on a slow boat from China).

Strangely they (TroubleCodes.net) don't seem to acknowledge the existence of my model 2007 S40 Diesel Turbo 2.0L