Seeking Plumbing Advice

The first thing that comes to my mind is to make a base for the shower stall to lift it up about 4 inches to build an offset in the drain.

Thanks Harley. I had thought of that also but I want a low threshold. My wife has bad knees and has trouble getting over anything over a few inches. That's why I'm making the change.

I don't know how cost effective this is but maybe you can get a custom shower pan.

Here's one.

https://www.google.com/search?q=custom+shower+base+pan&oq=custom+shower+base+pan&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l2.9462j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Thanks Rixter. Unfortunately, I may have to go that route.

If I get your verbal picture, the floor drain is 2” off from a common centered shower pan drain (front to back), and locations match left to right.

Can the sidewalls be added on to and the back wall shimmed out the 2”. Restated, pull the pan out from the back wall 2” - will the shower pan match the drain location then?

Don’t forget, this will move the shower faucet and shower head over the 2”, as compared to the old one.

Yeah, I was also considering that. I just wanted to keep the shower as deep as possible. And, how can I say this, my wife isn't as slim as she used to be. But, that may be the easiest solution.

Thanks,

Don

The shower would remain 36” deep, the room would just get 2” smaller.

Is the old shower pan available and suited for reuse, or was it too large to get through the door and needed to be broken into bits?

Wanna start a thread on that?

Naw, prolly wouldn’t get too many comments.

Now, if the shower enclosure were cast iron, that might get quite a shiny conversation going.

A lot of readers might be looking forward to that.

I may just shim out the back wall. That would place the shower pan 2" over the existing floor tile. Then I would have to shim under the molded shower pan. That may be the easiest option.

This kit might work for you....the 12" square around the drain is probably the cut-out in the slab for when they were roughing it in, so that should be just some plywood maybe that can be removed so you do have some movement available...

Don't know if this is the specific kit you would need, but you get the idea...

https://www.showerbase.com/products/cut-to-fit-center-drain-tile-shower-base-kit-kss-3660-c?variant=24122437379&gclid=CjwKCAiA_ZTfBRBjEiwAN6YG4YylX65bTHebf39N7NBGLRZfWS_8llInpd0ocFECxFKRf4G5aXvYCBoC2sUQAvD_BwE

Get some fiberglass cloth, resin and make a custom pan (prepare a sloped plywood "sub-floor" to provide adequate drainage). I did this years ago and have had no problems.

https://www.grifform.com/custom-shower-pans/

This product line, may suit your particular question and application because of the custom drain location. I own a Patent that also applies ~ though presently in-process of contacting this company to augment their product offerings... kinda' that tile-stretcher that many tile setters wish for in custom trim.

Now that is a cool offering. I’m gonna throw you a GA for that, I was unaware of such a guy.

With the solid surface and the customized sizing, I would expect this to be common size fiberglass showerpan dollars times twenty or thirty, but (other than accurate measuring) no fiddling around with framing, concrete, piping... What is that worth? Customer gets to decide.

I'm a very "do it myself" person, but at times I call in the experts. I believe that this is one of those times for you.

Get a decent tiler to fit out to the existing drain position complete with waterproofing etc.

Probably cost you less than shifting the drain plus purchasing and fitting a new base anyway.

By far the easiest way to solve your problem is to use a Linear drain. I used one from www.quickdrainusa.com and they supplied the foam panels also which made it possible to use large tiles instead of mosaics. Quick DrainInstallation Instructions. It was fast and easy to install though I also used DitraHeat panels and heating cables so we didn't have to step on cold tiles ( it gets a bit chilly here above the 49th parallel).

Sorry this app doesn't like vertical images. Turn your head to the left…

Large tiles for a shower pan, I believe, are illegal in LA, maybe even in California, due to slipperyness.

The tile companies make small mosaic sheets of the same wall tiles for that purpose. The numerous grout lines provide the non skid.

I found it easier just to roto hammer/ saw cut out the old drain, and replace it with a new trap(More often than not, it may be corroded and in need of replacing.) There are ABS fittings that allow for 2" offsets for toilet drains, using existing traps. They may have one for a shower drain. That way you get a brand new, bullet proof opening right where you want it.

Are your hot/cold/ mixer valves and shower head aligned with your drain? Or centered on the wall? That may also be a consideration.

Go and find a local commercial plumbing supply house, and ask them for alternative solutions. They have seen it all. Give them the measurements, draw it out. They love to be able to help as most of them are retired plumbers.

I built and remodeled homes in Los Angeles and surrounding areas for 35 years and have seen this done in many ways, many of which are mentioned above.

Pick one that works for you.

Seems to Me that if You only need 2 inches just chip out the concrete to get what You want. I had this problem in a remodel job I did a few years back, only I needed about

4 inches . I chipped out the concrete Which took a few ours and was a little dusty but

I got the job done with no problems.

oilcan13