Clear Cover for Borescope Camera

A length of heat shrink and an extra lenses cover.

Find a pocket flashlight that has a flat lens of the approximate diameter required. Place the lens in front of the camera, slip shrink tube over the lens and camera and heat.

A test tube perhaps? (Though the round bottom might introduce a bit of distortion.)

Found some 10mm clear lens and 10mm shrink wrap...

So, instead of the <...boroscope...> getting <...messy...> the <...clear lens...> gets <...messy...> instead.

It's difficult to see [pun intended] how the equipment's performance will be sustained!

How would you get oil off the camera?

Ultra small, ultra thin condom or just standard one with scope looking through side rather than the end.

Available, disposable, reliable, form fitting.

Translucent, no good...

If it's only to see the possible leak, then absolute clarity is not essential. Stretch the rubber to around 25X elongation to get thinner membrane to be looking through.

The other alternate is to get a fiber optic device with the camera at the non-inserted end. There are cheap ones in most auto spares stores. This has the added feature of only being the fiber diameter to get into even smaller spaces and much easier retrieval.

What about adding a tiny wiper blade assembly in front of the borescope?

Why don't you test the theory and pour some oil on your windshield and see if the wiper cleans it off??? A video would be great!

Wait, you're dipping a borescope into crude oil and expect to see something other than black. I don't care what covers the lens of the borescope, you still will not see anything. At least with a tiny wiper, you might from time to time be able to remotely clear something before full immersion.

I'm planning on searching the inner recesses of my engine bay for what I believe is a brake fluid leak...In case I happen to inadvertently get some on the borescope, I want to be able to clean it off without damaging the camera, even though it's supposedly waterproof, I would rather take a prophylactic approach...

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What age would you give to your emotional intelligence? 4mos, 4 years, 14, 44, your actual age? or none of the above?

And what mental age would you attribute this picture of a mechanical dog pissing in the street in response to another member's post?

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Both posted by the "chosen one," who can do no wrong.

Really, this forum is in the gutter if these are acceptable!

IMHO:

Insults can be anywhere you look for them.Seek and you shall find.

I could be offended by you being offended at a humorous posting,if I chose to do so,and likewise you could be offended because I was not offended,and the circle continues ad nauseam.

To paraphrase Martin Luther King Jr :

"You can kill the hater,but you can never kill the hate,in fact is increases it...."

It's not what you see,it is how you look at it.

Our personal reality is filtered through our own opinions and perspectives.

It is your right to see it as offensive.

I see them merely as funny,not insulting or denigrating.

I tend to take the high road to the lighter side of life.

(Don;t worry be happy)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-diB65scQU

You,likewise are free to choose yours.

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As I said,seek and you shall find it.

Hate is where you look for and find it.

There is no such thing as evil,merely the absence of goodness;like dark is the absence of light,cold is the absence of warmth.

Some people look for darkness,and find it.

I prefer to look for the light.

You sound like you've been huffing Unicorn Farts again....

Life is short.Eat dessert first.

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I like the dog,but he needs to be hydrant trained.

Check out the newer narrow offerings of color scope cams at farbor draught

Visipak tube dot com

You could research the typical brake system failures for the year/make/model.

I would place large sheets of paper or cardboard under the vehicle to identify the general area of the leak. This would at the least give you a good starting point. I gave HiTek a "good answer" for his suggestion to check the booster. If there's no fluid on the ground, that's where it went.

The clear oily fluid only drips after the car is driven for a while, and it drips from left hand side(DS) near the front, under the ABS system....however the brake fluid doesn't appear to be dropping, nor do any other fluids...It only seems to drip for a short while and perhaps 2-4 fl ounces....Everything appears to be working fine including the brakes...the reason I say brake fluid is I can't think what else it could be? So it's coming from a difficult location to see, either from the top or the bottom, the borescope should be able to locate the leak location thus telling me what type of fluid it is....and what needs to be repaired...

If there's absolutely no tint (green, red, orange, etc.) to the clear fluid then I'd say this is just dew condensate from the AC.

No it's a clear light oil....I know the difference between oil and water....

I have seen a similar problem with a water pump leak.The seal in the pump failed,and it was leaking out the bottom of the pump.The fan would blow the antifreeze back onto the motor,and the leak would appear to be coming from elsewhere.The anti freeze can drip down from any place under the hood.It would only drip down when the vehicle stopped,because there was no fan to blow it back.The air from the fan can also concentrate the antifreeze due to evaporation,giving it an oily feel.Look VERY closely at the Bottom of the water pump,right below the shaft .You will see a weep hole. 99% of the time this is where they will leak. A water trail will be evident in most cases,but sometimes not because the airflow has scattered it.Use an inspection mirror and flashlight if necessary.Sometimes they are hard to get a good look at.Anti freeze, depending on type, will have a red or green color to it,so put a piece of clean white paper under the leaking spot.It may not leak directly under the water pump because it is not running.It is probably not brake fluid,because a loss of 2 to 3 ounces would definitely be noticeable in the master cylinder reservoir.

Good Luck!

Well the radiator coolant reservoir is at the proper level, and I believe it is a greenish fluid...and besides you can smell a radiator leak, and like you said it sprays all over the engine bay...Now I guess it's possible that there is another fluid being used as a coolant, that is not water or antifreeze type coolant, that might fit the color and consistency....but the engine shows no overheating, and like I said the coolant reservoir is at the proper level...

Look at the radiator level as well as the reservoir.If there is a leak,the fluid in the reservoir will not be pulled back into the radiator when the engine is cold,and the radiator will slowly lose fluid.It will have to be very low for the engine to overheat.

Put a container under the leak to determine how much you are losing.

It may be less than you think.

2-3 ounces will definitely be noticed in the brake fluid reservoir.

What color is the fluid on white paper?

Will it burn?

The only other fluid I can think of is refrigeration oil,used in compressors.

I don't know your piping layout,but it could be the HI_LOW pressure cutout switch for the A/C unit.I have seen these leak before.If so,it will be necessary to evacuate the system and replace it.If you have the tools and knowledge you can do this yourself.

If not, it's gonna cost ya because of the price of Freon.If it is an older model,using Freon 12,you will have to convert it to the new type,which will require changing the oil in the compressor and the"o" rings and H/L pressure switch.

I have only seen antifreeze in red or blue. Green is when it needs changed as it does not inhibit corrosion any more.

In the USA it is green or red.The red is usually an environmentally safe antifreeze,typically Propylene Glycol,instead of Ethylene Glycol,mainly used in Recreational Vehicles and is colored red.If you have a leak in your RV radiator,or the previous tenant of your parking space, you don''t have to worry if you pet laps it up.Both types have a sweetish taste.

Any color is added at the manufacturing stage.It is natively clear.Put any antifreeze in a glass container,leave it is the sun a few days,and the UV it will turn clear.

The colors are added to prevent accidental mixing of the types.

Big diesel engines require a low-silicate antifreeze with anti-cavitation ingredients.

It is green, but not all greens are the same;it should also have "meets ASTM-4985: on the container.

Well, they haven't used oil in brake fluid since DOT 2. (I believe boiling fluid in the extreme temperatures of a brake was the primary problem.) For it to be oil-based, then power steering hydraulic fluid might be what is slowly dripping. Both brake and power steering fluids come in clear chemistries.

Fluid Levels are Best Served Cold

Power steering would be consistent with drivers side leaks. On my F150 there is a power steering reservoir and pump, pressure line, return line, power steering motor, and there could be a power steering cooling core. The F150 also has an hydraulic clutch assist reservoir and lines. My clutch started acting up after more than twenty years and I found that I had to top off the hydraulic fluid in that reservoir. The pressure line into the reservoir of the power steering also very slowly leaked and I had to replace the pressure line and the reservoir so that I could cease periodic additions to that reservoir. l am not saying these are your problems but they do represent issues which could cause slow leaks without quickly leading to operational problems. Is your clutch becoming slightly unresponsive(assuming manual transmission, of course) or do you hear a whine when you turn your steering wheel nearly to the stops ? The power steering heats up when the fluid is low and the fluid expands and the problem disappears until cold again so many people ignore cold start whines from their PS. Many owner's manuals recommend checking the PS fluid level while hot and that means that it might look good because it has expanded to the line on the stick by heating up. I always hated automatic transmission and PS fluid checking while hot or running per the manufacturer since the vibration and splattering tend to make the stick level readings ambiguous and the engine noise, heat, and hazards(fans, belts,..) make me loath to be reaching in there. I think they should be designing/recommending all dead cold readings and doing what they must to make those sufficient. Hot measurements should all be detailed ODBII style automated(readable by third party devices) and more related to temperatures, pressures, flow rates, velocities and the like reported at the dongle rather than static levels demanding physical access to some hot oily stick down in the poorly lit guts of machinery somewhere past moving belts, fans, and hot exhaust manifolds. Fluid levels like revenge, are a dish best served cold.

____________

thewildotter

The ABS unit may be leaking internally. There is a black plastic box containing the electronics and solenoid coils. The aluminum block contains the valves. There can be a fluid build up between the two, and it will leak from the seam. You can take this apart without breaking anything.

The booster, master cylinder and at least 10 flare connections exist in a small area on the drivers side. There are many "opportunities" for a leak in the area.

Is the brake fluid low?

OK I went on a fact finding mission, and the only fluid that was low was the coolant in the reservoir...So I dipped a wire down and hoisted it out to feel the texture, and sure enough it's oily and clear....So I'm pretty sure this is it....now where or how it's leaking is another story...I guess coolants have changed color for some reason...maybe because this is an aluminum block...I have my eye on an aluminum replacement radiator if necessary...

Borrow a radiator pressure tester.It replaces the radiator cap and has a plunger that allows you to apply pressure to the system.Observe the gauge that is on the tester for leak down.Try it first with the engine cold.Then hot and not running.If no leak is detected,and the pressure on the gauge is dropping, my personal bet is still on the water pump.They can be very sneaky and hard to catch in the act.Sometimes they only leak when in motion.Feel up under the hole in the bottom of the water pump for a leak, or use a rag on a wire if it is untouchable.Sometimes they cannot be seen,and the heat from a hot engine will evaporate a small leak.

I would have a simple solution that could be fine using common polyethylene, and it is very "homemade". Take a transparent plastic bag, of those that are used for various spare parts, made of non-rigid plastic, often they have a zip closure, if it is about 12x20cm then it also has the right thickness. The material is almost always PE (polyethylene) which resists any type of dirt and many aggressive chemical agents (gasoline, solvents, oils and additives). Thread your sensor by fitting it to the bottom of the bag, keeping the plastic stretched on the end, at a distance of 1cm you could use a tight elastic band. The polyethylene must overlap the electric cable by at least 4 cm. Now with a hot air heat gun, selecting the temperature of around 180°C (but the action could be faster even at 250°C, the more quickly the film is melt the less the risk of over heating tha part inside). Quickly heat up the part that overlaps the electric cable, then go on until the elastic band, which will probably break and where I suggest you not to continue in order not to deform the front that surmounts the viewer. You will have to pay attention: you have to be quick, quickly melt the film but not excessively overheating the body of the sensor. Of course the sharpness due to the film will be sacrificed a little, but if the light power is good the sacrifice should be worth it. Well, at the end, you could use a sheet of polyethylene obtained from the classic kitchen rolls, it is very thin and transparent, you tie it with two elastics bands and throw it away after every use ... better than this ...

best regards,

Iora Montebarocci

Alternatively, tie or stuff some clean paper/rag in various places around the engine bay at or near the places of the suspected leak - and leave it for a while. Go back later and check for wetness/staining. That might create an audit trail for you.