Forming a Cross-Break in Sheet Metal to Make a Drain Pan

To make a sloping to center drain pan it would probably need to be made in two pieces and welded...

Yeah, that was my original plan, but the thought occurred to me, so I figured I'd get some opinions. I don't need much of a slope... just a few degrees. I've got a modern 66 ton break to work with.

I like to make a cardboard pattern first to get the dimensions exact....

Yes, definitely.

We wouldn't normally cross break anything that heavy but it'll work fine. You may need a heavy press. Keep in mind that the area of the plate will shrink a little depending upon how much of a bend you'll be making.

66 tons. Yeah, I only need a few degrees of slope.

Would you think I should do as I suggested and do it in 4 steps? Or just go all the way across, twice?

Well it is thick for the size, but it will be stout.

That's a very interesting idea. Although I will be welding an outlet to the bottom side of the pan, a 1" pipe nipple, I do like the transition that whacking a ball on there would produce. I might re-size or prep that pipe to accommodate that plan.

How about a stamped Aluminum pan?

$61 on Amazon....haha Not an exact fit but possibly adaptable...

What is it?

Well... that's the general idea, but this is part of an already existing product that we make. I'm just tackling some issues they've been having with the design, like all the liquid not draining out when needed. Most of that was because they were inserting the pipe into the drain hole and welding both sides, all around. Obviously, that leaves a bit of a ridge sticking up on the inside. So I'm just making the hole smaller and welding the pipe to the outside surface. Making the cross break will just add to the draining ability. And I believe I'll flange the hole downward, like was suggested in another comment, to super-charge the improvement. This should all work significantly better than the original design. In fact, it should work perfectly!

Ahhh perfection....

That's what the guy said that invented the 'regular guy' mannequin...

Now THAT's out of the box thinking!

Link....

Good info. That particular set won't do my thickness, but it's heading me down the right path. Also, I reduced my thickness down to 14 GA, so that is helping as well.

house chimney cover for a b-vent

they make these using stainless and galvanized steel, possibly other metals too such as copper.

Does the drain have to be in the center? Another possibility might be to slope the bottom to a corner drain.

Would it not be possible to make a frame out of 1" x 1" steel to the outside dimensions and then a mating press mold with the cross break formed onto the surface out of shaped angle, for I deduce you have more than one to make so then it becomes repeatable to make many. After that it is easy to drill, broach or press the 1" hole for the drain.

I made a similar frame and mold to press out bases for vehicle supports out of 6mm plate and it worked great with a 50ton press.

Good idea, but we only need 1 or 2 a month. So far, just using the regular way is looking promising. When I triple this company's production in a year or two, that may be the way to go.

Right. Prototyping now. Cross break somewhat successful. Working on the warpage. Looking for a proper size ball and ring now. Will probably have to wait till after the weekend, when me and my welder can scrounge our junk at home.

How about a tow ball for they are 50mm or 2" what ever side of the pond you are on and a ring of 2" waterpipe?

Yep. Thought of that. The ball is too small, though.

IMHO:

Form your hole first,then the 4 breaks will be easier and less warping.

I would just have a sheet metal shop shear off a scrap that size, simply try it, and see if the result is acceptable. Or maybe more than one attempt with and without a preformed drain hole.

Success! There was a bit of a curve or bowing on the long sides, but turns out that that is just fine, and will actually help the draining. I didn't put the flare around the hole, as that seems like it won't be crucial. So we're going to give this a try, and refine it with the flared hole later, if need be.

The sheet metal, by the way, is the 11GA I started with. The cross break was easy with the center hole in place. In fact, I bumped it up to 15 degrees instead of the usual 10 degree bend, and got some extra slope. The fluid is just a bit viscous, so that will help.

I appreciate all the suggestions! CR4 mission accomplished.

Marching on to victory, down with the dogs of defeat...

Disturbing.

But... yay!