Hot Tub Installation

Check out the latest edition of the Wiring Regulations as issued from time to time by the Institution of Electrical Engineers. The contents give parameters for sizing conductors on the basis of the currents, the installation methods and the style of the cable.

I place this info into my folder.

I suggest you check out what the local codes are.

We installed a hot tub on out patio years ago. If we want to sell our house we either have to move the location of the breaker, a light and an outlet or we get rid of the hot tub.

My nephew installed a hot tub on a deck that wasn't built strong enough. Of course that problem didn't show up until his national guard unit was activated. An unhappy wife.

Generally all the wiring and plans must be approved by the local building inspector before you start work. Every state, province, government, and some municipalities/cities have their own regulations. Most require a licenced engineer to approve the plan.

Common requirements require a GFCI circuit breaker.

Most have specific distance requirements.

Generally for exterior cable, the cable should be waterproof. Some require a conduit for shielding and mechanical protection.

Generally for that amperage you are using 6 to 3 AWG

Here is a link that may help:

http://www.nfpa.org/aboutthecodes/AboutTheCodes.asp?DocNum=70

My opinion is that if you need to go to a website to get this information, you have no business trying to do this yourself. You are risking fire and your life if done wrong. Please hire a professional.

Are you referring to the wire from the main panel to the local breaker box, or the wire from the local breaker box to the hot tub?

In either case, the appropriate answer will depend upon several items, most of which have already been mentioned, such as local building code requirements. In what country, and what local jurisdiction, will the hot tub be located? Although the laws of physics don't change, the laws of man are definitely subject to the whims of local bureaucracy. Other items to consider:

• How will the wire be installed? Will it be direct buried, in buried conduit, in conduit in open air, or exposed cable (no conduit)? The capacity of underground wire is reduced since the earth acts as a thermal insulator, keeping heat in the wire and raising its temperature.
• Will you use copper or aluminum conductor? (NOTE: For new installations, aluminum residential wiring is illegal in most US jurisdictions.)
• Will you use individual wires, or multi-conductor cable, such as type NM (aka Romex) or type SO?

All of these questions will be considered by any competent electrical inspector, so you need to consider them now in order to avoid costly rework.

According to the national Electrical code (US), if you are using thwn it will be #6 cu if you are using uf #4 make sure it is a ground fault breaker. If you don't know what that is PLEASE call an electrician. Your life isn't worth it.

i would go with one that is recommended in your manual.

Try some heavy guage speaker wire, and be sure you precariously perch a large television and a bagle toaser on the edge of the tube while you enjoy bathing in it...

Or, you could check with the old guy at Home Depot...you can do it, and they can help.

So 7/0.029mm isn't big enough, then?

Careful... some people's natural sarcasm detection isn't as good as others.

Hi Oilcan13:

You can do an enormous amount of electrical work for yourself without being an electrician. I have upgraded my old house form 60 to 100 amps, run 60 amps out to two different work shops, upgraded my present house to breakers and split many of the circuits to reduce the load on them. I assume you have done some wiring around the house before and are somewhat familiar with the local code and correct procedures for electrical work, if not, then I would advise as others have that you hire a qualified electrician.

If you do proceed with the work then the first step I would recommend is find out who your local Electrical Inspecting Authority is; contact them and obtain an up to date code book. The book will tell you what size wire and what protection is required. Here outlets within 1 meter (three feet) of water must be GFI. Find out if the inspecting authority is amenable to questions and advise, mine is if you are willing to pay for it in the form a pre-inspection.

Read the code book, take your time and if you are not sure ask and ask again, there is no such thing as a stupid question.

Lastly and most important have you work inspected. Describe your work in detail to the inspector make sure he or she sees everything.

Good luck with your project

Mechtech

When I installed my hot tub I did the work myself, then hired an electrician to inspect my work, it cost me $50 to have him look at it and $200 to have him do it. If he found something wrong, which he didn't, then I would be on the hook to fix it, but the deal was $50 to inspect no matter how many times he had to come back to assure I had it right, ( I lost the bet it was right the first time,) oh, I put in THREE (3) ground fault interrupts, one at the box, one at the hot tub and the one build into the hot tub and over the years, they have all tripped at least once.

Is this installation in the USA? If so, you have to go by the NEC. The 60A breaker will be installed in the main service panel. This protects the feeder wires to the hot tub. A non-fused disconnect switch will be by the hot tub. You will be required to get an electrical permit, almost all states allow a home owner to do wiring on his property, but you still need a pe4rmit. This lets the local electrical inspector know there is wring being done at that location, and will inspect to see that it has been installed correctly, and will operate safely. Hot tubs are covered in Article 680 of the National Electric Code. You have to meet those requirements. You are dealing with peoples lives here, a licensed Eletrical Contractor is the best route to take.

Spend a Lil extra and get 200 amp wire .... go ahead ...let em say it ain't up to code ...

Careful.

I have heard of inspectors that will fail your inspection if it is not exactly to code. This means over engineering is a cause for failure. If the code says 4 Awg and you get 3 AWG which as we know is safer, they would fail you because the code did not say "minimum" 4 AWG" it said 4 AWG.

Place an 80A GFI Breaker in your main panel, Install a regular 60A 2 pole breaker in a subpanel more than 6 feet from the tub, either in a box suitable for wet locations or in a protected location. Now every circuit in the subpanel is GFI protectrd at the main. Use the other spaces in the subpanel for all related circuits (lighting, timers, fountains, pond pumps, etc.) Use #4 AWG copper wire throughout and you will be fine no matter how you get it there (underground in rigid conduit is best). Any money you might save with smaller wire is tiny compared with peace of mind and the ability to add circuits later. Avoid extension cords and splices, and you will never have to think about it again. These recommendations comply with the National Electrical Code.