contractor failed to fill all vertical rebar in block wall

Sparky,

Thank you for your in depth discussion of my dilemma.

Of course the Engineer, living and working in the same locality as the Contractor, will have a relationship or acquaintance with the Contractor of long standing - whereas you are only a single customer, met once and hopefully goodbye as soon as you pay the money.[p} Both the Engineer and the Contractor are hoping you will accept a (cheaper for the Contractor) repair job.

You have hit the mark! I apologize for what appeared to be a run-on paragraph, as I did not type it that way. I am not familiar with the formatting on this forum. This is the first time on a forum that I must add the "paragraph" formatting symbol, since the return key did not insert the format symbol

I had asked, through my attorney, for the contractor to supply the method he would use to detect the empty voids and how they would be filled. His response ignored the method to detect the voids, that is why I wanted all the blocks filled.

His written response: "I will cut out 8x8 areas where concrete rods were not filled around foundation and will have a pump brought in to pump in 1, 3 grout mix (4500lb psi) with a 2 inch hose to fill all voids. Filling in and re-laying 8x8 blocks where holes were cut out."

My conversation with the engineer seem to center around the easiest way to resolve the issue. In addition to assuring me that the wall would not fail, given the installation of the flood vents, he even suggested that I consider having the contractor agree to a lowering of the price. That is unacceptable and makes me consider seeking additional written engineering expertise but I will await his written recommendations.

I have had to engage an attorney, since the contractor had his attorney send me a letter threating a lawsuit if I didn't let the contractor correct the deficiencies. My attorney correctly informed me that the contractor would win if I didn't give him the chance to correct the work or if I didn't provide expert documentation to refute the corrective measures proposed by the contractor.

My purpose in exploring the issue is:

To determine if the contractor's method of filling the voids would be acceptable and what measures, exclusive of drilling each of the 1300 cells or tapping with a hammer would be used to know which of the voids he should cut open?

Can the cement pumped into the blocks that do not contain the rebar expect to migrate sideways to adjoining voids, especially if pea gravel or other stone is not used?

From an engineering perspective, what methods could be employed to detect and insure that all of the rebar voids are filled. Or, would the filling of the blocks between the sections that contain the rebar provide sufficient stiffining of the wall to achieve the intended stability. The engineer had verbally suggested that the best method would be to force grout from the bottom with inspection ports higher in the wall at various locations to insure the grout (I probably should say cement mix) migrates across the blocks which should fill the voids containing rebar. The contractor says this cannot be done but I believe he doesn't want to use all the cement necessary to fill all the block.

Sorry for being so long-winded.

Don

Thanks Sparky, your comments and suggestions are quite wise. I will cease to suggest ways to resolve the deficiencies but rather seek solutions from a "professional" engineer, since I question the motives of "my" engineer.

It may take awhile to make meaningful progress with this dilemma but I will sure to come back and post my progress.

Don

First, thing I would do as a CE is send a certified masonry special inspector out to observe the installation of any mitigation procedures. You need to let the contractor recomend acceptable mitigation and attempt to fix the problem, however, you can have a qualified inspector onsite to observe the repairs and take samples of materials for testing. For structural masonry, the block needs to be completely filled, and any voids are unacceptable. The reinforcement needs the concrete in good contact with the bar to develop proper strength. You should contact your CE and have him supply an inspector, and then have him certify the construction based on the inspections conducted by his agent. Usually a CE will take a different response when he has to have a inspector on site and stamp a special inspection report. Additionally, to keep the inspector honest, you visit the site a lot and take numerous photographs of things you find suspicious, as well as regular activities. Ask questions regarding anything suspicious just for information. Do not impede the contractors work efforts, but watch and question. Upon completion of the contract and payment for the specified fee, if there are any discrepancies that he is unwilling to address, you locate a qualified engineer specializing in materials (Many Geotechnical engineers specialize in masonry and concrete inspection also) to attest to the poor workmanship and structural failings of the construction, and then go to an attorney and send a letter to both the CE and the contractor threatening to file suit unless the structure is properly rebuilt (A news story about how bad the work was with an engineer commenting always helps). You also contact the State Board of Engineers and file a complaint. The cheap way is to always let the CE know that this is the path you intend to take if you find anything suspicious, he will probably get on the ball. This is why Lawyers scare so many engineers, they sue everyone even remotely involved over anything, even if the engineers have no direct knowledge or control.

First, thing I would do as a CE is send a certified masonry special inspector out to observe the installation of any mitigation procedures. You need to let the contractor recomend acceptable mitigation and attempt to fix the problem, however, you can have a qualified inspector onsite to observe the repairs and take samples of materials for testing. For structural masonry, the block needs to be completely filled, and any voids are unacceptable. The reinforcement needs the concrete in good contact with the bar to develop proper strength. You should contact your CE and have him supply an inspector, and then have him certify the construction based on the inspections conducted by his agent. Usually a CE will take a different response when he has to have a inspector on site and stamp a special inspection report. Additionally, to keep the inspector honest, you visit the site a lot and take numerous photographs of things you find suspicious, as well as regular activities. Ask questions regarding anything suspicious just for information. Do not impede the contractors work efforts, but watch and question.

Thank you for a very concise and detailed procedure to follow. I do think that the engineer is trying to get the issue resolved without conflict which could lead to legal action. Up until now, the dialogue has been primarily verbal. It is now time to document the mitigation, as you mention, and pursue legal and/or professional remedies should the work not be performed correctly. I like your suggestions and hope to implement them where possible.

Don

Hello Sparkstation

In your mixes for CONCRETE and Grout, be a good idea to add some cement. It makes it set a lot harder!

Cheers....Codey

Hello Codey,

Thanks for your Post.

I could have been like one of my school teachers many years ago, who used to say: "Just checking to see if you were awake, lad".

I realized a short time later, and advised homewowner publicly in my Post #5 here:

http://cr4.globalspec.com/comment/145193/Re-contractor-failed-to-fill-all-vertical-rebar-in-block-wall

Top marks for noticing.

"Go to the top of the class, don't take your books, you'll be back." - which was another advisory sentence from the same school teacher.

I have found that if I make a mistake, best to admit to it, and not try to "fudge around" or to evade - most people understand, after all none of us are perfect.

Cheers....

Well put!!

OK Sparky thanks. I'd been out of office a few days. The omission of cement jumped out at me and I didn't notice the thread had gone on so long, or I'd have seen your later correction #5.

Cheers...........Codey

Thanks Don, and I trust you get a good resolution.

My humble apologies as I mis-stated in Post #1:

CONCRETE is normally: aggregate 4, sharp sand 2, water 1 = all parts by volume.

Grout is normally: Sharp sand 2 or 3, water 1 = all parts by volume.

The Engineer has done the correct thing, in his design works.

I trust you realized I omitted the CEMENT which should be in each mixture.

Add CEMENT to the CONCRETE mix above as 3 parts.

Add CEMENT to the GROUT mix above as 2 or 3 parts.

(I trust you don't think that I am some sort of friend of your Contractor - I just forgot to list the cement - a truly monumental error.)...

I was aware that the omission of "cement" was an oversight. Although more of a handyman than anything, I have been mixing cement for various purposes for almost 60 years. I started around 15, helping my father. Oops, I gave away my age.

Don

Your contractor has realy dropped the ball.

Whatever is done it is going to be a difficult operation.

Would it be possible to core drill two holes each side of the rebar it would involve a lot of drill insertion and removals.

If so it might be possible to force cement through a pipe at the bottom of one hole from the top backing it out slowly and anticipating cement rising in the other hole. If any blocks are previously filled they will be bypassed as the pipe is allowed to move up into the next void, you will have to be carefully not to jack the pipe out of the hole as it should not get ahead of the cement rising in the other vent hole or you will get air pockets.

Trying to pressure feed from the bottom might wok with two vent risers.

If there is a cross blockage between the two holes in any section the rising cement in both vents should fill them.

It will have to be a correct mix to flow easily and pre wet the section in question.

Hope you can use this suggestion all the best.

Firstly, you have an awful problem, I hope you are able to get it fully fixed. My thoughts are that the fix is worse, I would plan on a new wall, outside of the present one (to be built by the contractor at his cost), but built as part of the original wall.....it may not need to be quite so thick as the substandard wall should give some extra support......

Full strength with rebar and vertical steel mats etc etc etc......

The repair of the original wall only needs to miss ONE VOID and you could have severe flooding into the house the next time it rains well!!! Think about it!!

For this project it is too late, but for anyone building or having built something, no matter what, stick around (take holiday!) when the Guys are working!!!! Work from home, BUT BE THERE!!

I stopped DOZENS of small errors when they were renovating the inside and outside of my cellar.....not all but the important ones....I was there 90% of the time and they never knew when I would be back!!!!

Everything that I was there for was 100% good, but they took short cuts every time I was not there....walls not flat for example - 3.5 meter wall, checked with straight edge, the corners are each 2 cm behind the middle....floor to runoff sump/pump is flat, instead of very slightly slanted to the sump....

I will not have that contractor again.....

Hi Andy,

I agree with you. Trying to repair the substandard wall will, at the least, be extremely difficult. I think the contractor should provide a new wall (at his expense), adjacent to, and attached to the present wall. The resulting double wall will certainly be superior to any kind of repair they can come up with.

You said "I would plan on a new wall, outside of the present one". If the house is to be positioned atop the new wall, looks like the second wall should be built inside the existing wall.

-John

...or plan a minutely bigger house!!!

Thanks for all the input. I doubt that it would come to a new wall but that would be up to the engineer. At worst, one could test drill each of the 1300 voids containing rebar. The ones that have unfilled voids above them could be filled. Then the uppermost unfilled void could be filled, using a pump, and all of the lower empty block would be filled. I can't see a real problem doing it this way, but I am not an engineer.

Don

...but if ONLY one void is missed.......? Too risky.

I know that there are ultrasonic testers that can determine the thickness of metal from one side. I wonder if that type of tester would be effective on concrete block. That way, you could draw the outline of every void and "see" the percentage of voids in the wall. This would be very effective in showing all involved, firstly how poorly the job was done and secondly to what extent the wall needs to be repaired or replaced. Without definitive visual evidence you don't have anything to throw in their face, as well as nothing the show the inspector, who will have to sign off for you to get your certificate of occupancy. And if repair is decided, you will know where to drill the hole to fill the void from the bottom up.

After hurricane Andrew in Florida, codes were changed to require the void column in block to be filled, although I don't think they required rebar, every two feet. They knocked a hole at the base of each column to ensure that trapped air didn't prevent the concrete from completely filling the void. In your case with rebar, a vibrator should have been used.

Don't you have building inspectors that check that check that projects are built to code and with a building permit?

The work has already been passed by the "inspector", who only certified the upper and lower bond beam. I don't know how they could ever determine that all the voids were filled unless they were present during construction. I have not informed them of the problem yet because I am concerned that they will post the building as uninhabitable, which means my wife and I will be on the street for who knows how long.

What I really need is engineering that will either correct the problem or a fix that would surpass the stability that was expected, if the voids were properly filled. My engineer had originally stated that force grouting from the bottom up would best insure complete filling, using inspection ports to verify filling. The contractor "claims" this is not possible, so I wondered if any other engineers had utilized this method.

Sparky was right in saying that this must be in writing and any engineer worth his salt is not going to fudge with the corrective action. The engineer has verbally said that the wall will probably be OK and that empty voids could "probably" be detected using a hammer. I am sure he would never repeat this in a written document. He might not even want to get involved and just ignore my request for written documentation.

Don

FIRST- IF YOU HAD A WRITTEN CONTRACT THAT REFERS TO THE ENGINEER'S DOCUMENTS, YOU WANT WHAT YOU PAID FOR, CONCRETE GROUT WHAT EVER.

SECOND- IF THE CONTRACTOR DID NOT ADHERE TO THE CONTRACT DOCUMENTS, I WOULD ADVISE HIM TO DO WHATEVER IS NECESSARY TO BRING THE WORK INTO COMPLIANCE AND PROVIDE AN ENGINEERS CERTIFICATION THAT THE WORK IS IN COMPLIANCE WITH THE INTENT OF THE DRAWINGS AND SPECIFICATIONS FROM THE ORIGINAL DESIGNER. THIS IS DONE EVERYDAY IN THE INDUSTRY, MISTAKES HAPPEN. IF THE ENGINEER IS SATISFIED WITH THE WORK AND WILL CERTIFY IT THEN I DON'T SEE ANY PROBLEM. WHOMEVER DID THE WORK WAS PROBABLY BEING PUSHED BY A CONCRETE TRUCK DRIVER BECAUSE OF THE TIME INVOLVED.

THIRD- IF I PAY AN ENGINEER FOR DESIGN WORK I ALSO PAY HIM TO INSPECT AND CERTITFY THE WORK PRODUCT ( STANDARD INDUSTRY PRACTICE). IF YOU BARGAINED THE WORK DOWN FOR PRICE YOU WERE WRONG. IF THE CONTRACTOR FEELS THAT YOU ARE ASKING TOO MUCH, TALK TO HIM. IF HE'S LEGIT HE PROBABLY HAS A POINT AND YOU BOTH SHOULD BE ABLE TO WORK OUT A SOLUTION THAT WILL GET A CERT FROM THE ENGINEER WHICH IS YOUR ONLY ASSURANCE OF SUITABILITY.

CONWAYMECH makes interesting comments, although ALL CAPS, is akin to shouting, I hear him loud and clear.

SECOND- IF THE CONTRACTOR DID NOT ADHERE TO THE CONTRACT DOCUMENTS, I WOULD ADVISE HIM TO DO WHATEVER IS NECESSARY TO BRING THE WORK INTO COMPLIANCE AND PROVIDE AN ENGINEERS CERTIFICATION THAT THE WORK IS IN COMPLIANCE WITH THE INTENT OF THE DRAWINGS AND SPECIFICATIONS FROM THE ORIGINAL DESIGNER

I asked the contractor to supply the method by which he would detect the empty voids and how he proposed filling same. He did not provide this but simply wrote: "I will cut out 8x8 areas where concrete rods were not filled around foundation and will have a pump brought in to pump in 1, 3 grout mix (4500lb psi) with a 2 inch hose to fill all voids. Filling in and re-laying 8x8 blocks where holes were cut out."

I believe that is INSUFFICIENT information to allow him to proceed. He had returned once to fill one 2 foot section, when I discovered the problem. He said it was a mistake and the rest is OK. When attempting to affix a rim joist to support floor joists for a floor to replace the slab that was not raised, I discovered many more voids. I asked him to obtain the proper procedure from his engineer and I would have my engineer review it. He flatly refused.

WHOMEVER DID THE WORK WAS PROBABLY BEING PUSHED BY A CONCRETE TRUCK DRIVER BECAUSE OF THE TIME INVOLVED.

Although he had used a concrete truck and pump on the other jobs on my block, he did not use one for mine but simply used the mortar mix that he was using to lay the block. He only had bags of mortar mix and no bags of portland cement. IF YOU BARGAINED THE WORK DOWN FOR PRICE YOU WERE WRONG. IF THE CONTRACTOR FEELS THAT YOU ARE ASKING TOO MUCH, TALK TO HIM. IF HE'S LEGIT HE PROBABLY HAS A POINT AND YOU BOTH SHOULD BE ABLE TO WORK OUT A SOLUTION THAT WILL GET A CERT FROM THE ENGINEER WHICH IS YOUR ONLY ASSURANCE OF SUITABILITY. While you seem to be aware that engineers are bargined down in price, this was the first time in 50 years of owning a home that I even used an engineer. The engineer told me how much it would cost and I agreed. I am surprised at your comment "if he's legit, he probably has a point". This was not a harmless, unknowing error. The contractor was well aware that not bringing in a concrete truck was cutting corners. It was not just an employee doing sloppy work. The areas of block that were done directly by the contractor, since he does participate pretty consistenly in the actual work, were likewise replete with unfilled block.

While I didn't mention it before, so as not to confuse the issue, the contractor did other questionable work. One half of the foundation is 12" block and the rest a mix of 10" and 8". The 10" was below grade and the work he did was above grade, so I didn't mind him using 8" block for the 11 courses he built. However, in the 12" section, the interior wall was 12" and was used to support one end of four laminated beams that supported the floor joists. It also carried the sill or plate which carried the 2" by 8" wall above. The contractor said that 8" block would be sufficient and I questioned as to whether it would be wide enough to carry the beams and the sill. I stupidly relented, but insisted that he give assurance that it would be wide enough. I was out of State when he called me and I could not get back in time to check it myself, that is why I said stupidly. The laminated beams were previously supported close to 4" in the original wall and the sill plate sat fully on the block. Now only 1 1/2" of the beams are resting on the block and the sill is three inches off the block. Does this sound like a "legit" contractor?

I have added this only because some skeptics might think I am asking too much of the contractor. I hope I have clarified the supposition that the engineer was not properly compensated or that a "legit" contractor is being taken advantage of. There might even be more contractors than engineers on this forum and I am sure they have had unpleasant experiences with homeowners but this is not the case. I have fairly described the actions of the contractor and have no other agenda other than wanting to have the work completed at least to the level of the specifications. I don't believe I should accept any less.

Dear Homeowner,

I am an Engineer. I understand what the experienced contractor has said about grout, concrete, etc. However, you will need an Engineer to do the calculations on the wall. If the blocks were designed to be filled, the Contractor is required to fill the blocks.

I agree with the one response that says get a new wall. Start over. This will be the worst for the Contractor, but actually the best for you and the Engineer.

Please remember their is an old saying about Engineers that goes" The Engineer works for the Owner until the bid is let, then they work for the Contractor". This means the Engineer usually buddies up to the Contractor to cover any mistakes they may have made in their design. I would strongly recommend that you get a second professional opinion from a reputable Engineer or engineering firm. I am skeptical that the wall was designed one way, and can still meet code and acceptable engineering practices with a significant amount of concrete missing.

Another effect with the unfilled voids with concrete or cement is that the rebars will corrode in a short time. This will even compromise the strength of the wall once rust or corrosion sets in. Pouring cement into small holes from the top will always trap air in the empty spaces and they will prevent concrete from dropping down.

You need to get your engineer to help you, not us. If he cannot certify that the wall complies with local code, then you cannot occupy the building. A certificate of occupancy cannot be issued. Is the building inspector also corrupt? Is the engineer a registered PE in the state of DE? Or the contractor's brother in law or friend?

Concrete vibrators should be used to ensure that the voids were filled. It sounds like each row needed to be filled before the next row was set but that that was not done and now the walls will have to be removed and rebuilt.

John B, PE

eriew (John B. PE) stated:

[i][b]You need to get your engineer to help you, not us.[/i][/b]

My original posting stated my concern as to whether it was proper for me to post in this forum and I respect your opinion.

The reason I am here is that "my engineer" seems reluctant to come down hard on the contractor. He will not issue (I spoke to him yesterday) a document that will specify the type of work the contractor must perform to correct the problem. He feels it is the responsibility of the contractor to have his engineeer do that. I tend to agree with his approach. In none of my conversations with him did he even hint that such drastic measures, such as a new wall, will be necessary. He even thinks the wall will be fine but I doubt that he will put that in writing. He suggests that the contractor may be able to get an "engineer" to certify that the wall is sufficiently strong enough, given the installed flood vents, to withstand the floods.

I was only trying to get a sense of how I should approach the engineer and contractor and what can I reasonably expect. I can only guess that I will have to wait for the next move by the contractor who must supply a written document that will spell out corrective measures. His statement that he will open empty blocks and fill them does not contain the method by which he will determine which ones need to be opened and filled.

I appreciate the help I have received and don't wish to impose upon those who are willing to give of their time to help someone in need.

I doubt that the inspector is corrupt and he has not yet become involved, since my engineer said it would serve no purpose at this point. The engineer is a registered civil engineer in PA. I have no idea of any relationship between the contractor, engineer, inspector, or anyone else. I think the engineer is an easy going, pleasant, and non-confrontational person, so he probably prefers to avoid controversy.

Thanks again for the many comments, some of which give me guidance.

Don

Hmm, Registered in PA and working in DE. Is he applying for committy? What are DE's state regulations on engineers unlicensed in that state practicing. If he screws up in DE, will PA hold it against his license. I know CA will suspend your license for most major violations of practice in the adjacent states. You should get a second opinion of the construction, and get your current engineer to inspect the work and certify it under his stamp, and notify him that you want him to certify the construction complies with his design and local building codes in a letter from an attorney. Then let the engineer and the contractor fight it out over how to resolve the problem.

I must make a comment as to location of the flood site. Homeowner stated in his initial post that he is on the Delaware River. To those not familiar with this river, it is the boundary between Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Homeowner may correct me if my memory is inaccurate but in the past four or five years, the river, particularly between Easton, Pa. and almost to Philadelphia, has surpassed the 100 year flood level THREE times (please correct me if I am in error. I'm sure the posters would want correct information). What we are talking about is some properties that had been destroyed, just been finished being rebuilt and then being destroyed again. Parts of Route 611 (Pennsylvania side scenic road) were half washed away (literally) and as of a few months ago when I traveled it, haven't been rebuilt. There are 1/4 mile sections that are one lane and some bridges on side roads were washed away (near Washington's Crossing. There may be others I am not aware of). The beauty of the river-way keeps people from leaving although that must be wearing thin.

Jaguar writes:

Homeowner may correct me if my memory is inaccurate but in the past four or five years, the river, particularly between Easton, Pa. and almost to Philadelphia, has surpassed the 100 year flood level THREE times

Thanks to Jaguar (practically a neighbor) for clearing up the reference to DE, which is not where the engineer works, nor where I live, which is in fact in PA. Jaguar is also correct about the multiple floods, although only two of the three reached the 100 year flood level.

As far as certification, I would imagine that the Engineering Firm hired by the Township to handle these issues would likely accept a certification from a PE. My engineer had to submit a letter regarding the design of the work as follows:

Dear Building Official,
"Please be advised that the new foundation for the above referenced site located in ??--- Township has been designed to withstand the pressures, velocities, impact and uplift forces associated with the 100-year flood and that the design complies with flood load criteria in ASCE. 7-02." "Measures being taken include, the incorporation of vents and the extension of a reinforced concrete block wall. "

If the contractor can obtain a similar certification from his engineer, it would be difficult to get my engineer or the Township engineer to oppose the certification. I think they kinda foster a "professional relationship." However, I must give the Township engineer credit for some additional measures that were added to the plans submitted by my engineer, especially the need to tie the new wall into the existing wall with either rebar & epoxy for a solid wall and rebar filled for an existing hollow wall. The contractor inserted the rebar into the existing wall but only filled the top block of the existing wall, adjacent to the newly added blocks.

I also thank Jaguar for making me feel like I am in the right place and I hope that I can contribute in some way to the forum. It may take some time but I will be sure to reveal the outcome. Right now I am only interested in getting to Florida for the winter and will have to fight my battles from there.

If I cannot get back to the forum toward the end of this week to reply to new comments, it is likely that I am on the road to warmth and sunshine.

Thanks again for all the help.

Don

Have you got room for me? I lived in Tampa for 20 years and absolutly loved it. I WILL return after taking care of dad.

Have you got room for me? I lived in Tampa for 20 years and absolutly loved it. I WILL return after taking care of dad

That is weird. We live around 15 miles north of you in PA and the same distance north of you in FL, since we are located in Lutz. Unfortunately, we have no room at the inn, since we have no trouble filling the space with friends and family up north.

We would likely spend all year there if it were not for our four kids and 12 grandchildren. I apologize in advance for this "off-topic" posting.

Don

Ah Lutz. Passed through there a couple of years ago on a visit. Hadn't been there since 2000. It sure has changed. Had a terrific Cuban sandwich just south of the intersection on the east side.

Glass reinforced grout will work and can be pumped in to fill the voids sideways. You can drill pilot holes in the areas where the grout can escape from to grantee that the grout has made it into the intended spaces. I would bet that the engineer would sign off on this. The alternatives are replacing the existing foundation, incorporate a separate foundation around the existing and sister in the bond beam or fill the existing work. Remember the focus of the loads here are compressive. I am not looking to let your contractor off the hook, but if the engineer is willing to sign off on the repair I would be fine with that. If the engineer won't change his design, than I would hold out for the job to be ripped out and done as to the original design criteria. Remember if the job is structurally unsound then you could be residing in a condemned structure until the repairs have been made and accepted. What do the local codes say about this type of foundation modification. I willing to bet that something here needs to meet code. Good luck!!!!!!!

Slightly off topic.... I just want to thank everyone who has posted so far. This is one of the most interesting threads that I've follow on CR4. Bravo!

Latest news is that my engineer has sent me a letter, saying that many of the issues are legal in nature. As far as he is concerned, he is making a recommendation of ONE way to attempt the filling of the rebar voids. That method is to pump cement grout into the bottom of the wall and use inspection ports in the higher parts of the wall to insure the grout is migrating to the needed areas. I expect to hire someone from my engineer's office to be present during the work.

He rightly states that it is the responsiblity of the contractor to come up with a method to correct the problem, and "perhaps you (meaning me) should require that an engineer under his employ should review and certify his proposed technique". I believe that recommendation to be a valid and necessary requirement.

I am glad that so many have participated and that some have found it to be challenging and interesting. I would be one of those, if I wasn't so immersed in the controversy. By Saturday I hope to be in sunny Florida and it might lift my spirit.

Don