Swaged support tube dimensions

I dunno but I'd guess at between 1.5 and 2 times the tube diameter. This is just gut feel.

I should be easy enough to run some tests .... (if you have the swageing equipment.)

I expect one of the mech eng guys will have it in his magic book somewhere...

(I don't have a magic book..... Dear Santa... )

Del

Maybe I should step back 1 question: what is the best way to connect the multiple sections of an aluminum support pole that must be quickly assembled, used, and then unassembled for storage?

My plan was to build it like a tent pole of multiple, short swagged sections held together for traveling by elastic string. I think it is relatively inexpensive to do this. My best quote is $90 setup and $0.50 per piece. This would give an easily assembled pole that should be pretty close to the strength of an uncut pole of the same length.

Any better ideas? (Better defined as cheaper, stronger, safer, faster, easier, et al.)

Ralph

PS. By the way, is there a hand tool for swaging a 1" diameter aluminum tube for onsey - twosy quantities?

PS. By the way, is there a hand tool for swaging a 1" diameter aluminum tube for onsey - twosy quantities?

I wouldn't think so....Insert a length of smaller diameter rod or tube and epoxy it in place?

I'm finding there are hand tools for this but it happens that after 7/8" OD they get quite expensive ($500 set). Further they seem only to STRETCH the existing tube to the next larger size. They work (I think) by forcing a larger diameter die into them.

I need one like this from 1" OD to 1 " ID. This one will only take up to a 7/8" OD

I'm thinking that STRETCHING will weaken the tube more than compressing it.

The big machines that I've found pictures of compress the tube.

No, this is for a portable support pole that can be easily assembled, used and unassembled for transport / storage.

You missunderstand...

Re read my post....

I'm not sying how to join two pieces....

Permanently fit a smaller piece into the end of rod 1.... this will then slide into rod 2 and the two can be separated again.

You aren't going to make me draw a picture are you?

Del

Absolutely! And I require it to be Auto cad compatible, 8 1/2 landscape and meticulously dimensioned.

I get it, and that's a good idea!

All I need is a 3" long, tightly fitting, slightly smaller than 7/8" OD tube to insert and permanently join to one tube. Then slide the other over it. This will avoid having to swage. If I use a thicker wall for this smaller connector I might even make the joint stronger than the rest of the pole.

Yes, this DEFINITELY has promise. I'm not sure about glue though. Don't you think it will become brittle over time and come loose? Maybe a crimp or center punch?

No. No crimps. (I eat lots of vege's).

I've been looking over eBay and other tool sources and the best I can find is long handled 1" Pex Crimper tool. They have a 1" ID crimping hole though so it won't do much crimping. I guess I could file its jaws a little. It shouldn't need much. I looking at using 1/2" schedule 40 which has an OD of .84 instead of 7/8" tube with an OD of .875. That makes .035 gap which should be pretty snug without sanding. And it is .11 wall so almost twice as thick at the joints as the tube itself.

But I was thinking of just using a rivet or two.

I'm using 6063 structural aluminum and am hoping it is hard enough to not sag. (I don't know what the schedule 40 is made of.) But there won't be any weight on the rivet anyway. That will be on the joint which should be pretty flush.

Doe!!! I can't use telescoping sizes with a rivet sticking through. Well the logistics of getting 4 telescoping tubes with 4 similarly shrinking connector pieces is probably unrealistic on a low budget project like this anyway.

Maybe I can use elastic glue like 'Goop' as lubricant when I press the connector into the larger pipe. If it'll dry at all that is.

Thanks,

Ralph

Actually you could make the insert out of say glass filled nylon,(or similar) this would overcome the possibility of it galling and sticking the two sections together, alluminium can be a real pig for this (although nylon will absorb water slightly and swell).

A 'soft tool' for injection molding wouldn't be too expensive and could even be made for a small hand operated injection molder for your twenty-fifties, the cross section of the detachable end needn't be circular, this would save weight and allow easier tolerances (e.g. Design in a little 'give') it would need to be pinned, riveted or glued in to position, but again the design could incorporate ridges so that it can be pressed in but is reluctant to come out.

Blimey .. I've almost designed it (I charge 5 sardines an hour)

Del

Good effort Del. I don't know why you can get a job.

I had to fix an aluminium tent pole once. I used an aluminium bolt (which use to be part of an electrical connector) as an insert into the broken tube. This only required a tap with a centre punch to secure it. This seemed quite good in the shed but the next time it was used the other end of the pole started to stretch over the bolt. This was solved by sliding a length of hose over the out side of the joint. It now has the inner male alignment connector and this outer sheath to prevent the bending moments from stretch the aluminium. That was nearly twenty years ago.

Since then I have discovered that a lot of disposal stores actually stock short lengths of Al tent poles that assemble to pretty much any length you want. With a hacksaw and a pare of pliers you can tailor it to suit.

I'm afraid glass will have to wait until AFTER I've kicked myself.

I've been researching tube connectors and there are several that look good. I've ordered samples of the best and we'll compare them to the 'Del the Cat' solution and see what wins (cost and practicality wise).

And please don't talk about sardines while my cats are watching.

Thanks,

Ralph

As a child I had a 4' x 6' tent and at least use it once a year. The poles had inserts sticking out by ± 3" (dimensions tend to grow over time and over-designing was a way off life)

But even that fit deteriorated big time as the aluminium stretches over time.

My advice (on one foot sections at least) would be to over design the swagged sections as much as is affordable or practical.

I just ordered both 6 foot and 8 foot tent poles to see how they're doing it.

It looks like they're using a 1" swagged section.

Theirs are too long for my "portability" rules at 27". I need 12". But it looks like they've swagged smaller one end and used 4 tubes that can be nested within each other making a more portable collapsed pole (judging by their "Size: 8 ft. Nested: 27 in" meaning all but 1" of successive smaller tubes fit into the larger tube. So 24" + 1+1+1 = 27".)

This introduces the clever idea of using BOTH telescoping sizes AND swagged ends for portability.