What is needed for a fiber/ethernet system

Simple. Select "powerline adaptors" (not an endorsement) from the local friendly household appliances store.

• This username has a master installation that is 50m away on a different breaker to the circuit on which the master router and powerline adaptor are connected. A wireless connection is in use at the slave end as well as a cable connection from the adaptor, and a slave router is deployed there to provide this.

They are plug-and-play. So long as there is power at both ends, no problem.

Setup help can be found on YouTube (not an endorsement).

master installation slave installation

The master and slave ends do need to be on the same phase, though.

I don't have the answers but I do have a couple of comments might help others provide answers.

What is your "Hughes" system? Is it a small, home satellite dish system or is it something else?

You seem to have several things going on at the same time. You should be able to pump ethernet at homeowner speeds through your Cat6 cable with reliability that would score "perfect" on any test available to a homeowner. Thus, my opinion is that "attenuation" is not your problem. It might be bad cable, bad connectors, bad equipment, (multiple DHCP servers), etc.

I think you want to bring the internet into your home from two different sources (cable company and satellite dish) and switch between them based upon quality of service. Interesting question. I don't have a good answer.

As far as I know, all computers and TV boxes in a home will either have a statically assigned IP address (not common) or obtain an IP address at boot (power up) time through a process known as DHCP. Somewhere at the cable company and somewhere at the satellite dish company they have a computer called a DHCP server. When your TV box or home computer boots, it sends out a "please give me an IP address" message. The DHCP server then looks up an available address in its tables and sends a "here is your IP address" message to your home. Having an IP address is necessary for almost all communications on the internet.

Your are going to have a problem when two DHCP servers are connected to your home at the same time. I know from experience that things tend to get very confusing and very unreliable when two DHCP servers are active. This could be the cause of your Cat6 problems that seem to be "attenuation". Your easiest to define solution would be the annoying solution of only plugging in one service provider at a time. I hope someone has a better solution to offer that allows both providers to be connected and the best to automatically be used.

There is a solution. Businesses have "failover systems" that allow them to keep running and switch over when an internet connection fails. I just don't know if it is done with equipment that is within a "homeowner budget" and I don't know if it is realistic to do it without an IT department.

Thank you: The Hughes system is basic satellite internet. Around 15 MBs download. I've had the system since '18 after power was restored from Maria. It is adequate for emails etc. And it runs for 8 hrs on a group 31 battery and sine wave inverter. As for the Cat 6, I'm inputting 200 MBs at the cable router and only seeing 30 or so at the end of 150 ft of cable. Not enough to run HD films. That is why I'm exploring fiber

I only connect 1 router at a time to any system. So the IP should not have an issue. Pandora doesn't like it, and logs me out each time. CR4 doesn't care!!

Well the first thing I would recommend is that you put all your equipment on battery back ups circuits to stabilize the system....Then I would stand next to the tv and use an app to test my speeds over the course of several days and times as the speeds vary...then determine the speeds necessary for all the equipment you are using with everything on....then check for a conflict....you shouldn't need cable

I have fiber optic and typically have over 300Mbps up and down...they recommend at least 50Mbps for 4k streaming...so if you have just 1 device it should work if the signal is stable...

..." Cat6 Ethernet cables consist of four twisted pairs of copper wire and 250 MHz of bandwidth, supporting data transfer speeds of up to 10 Gbps (10GBASE-T) for distances up to approximately 180 feet."... so not an issue...

Your tv does need to be paired with password and router by setting in the tv setup menu...Since the Hughes router is closer it might be attempting to log on to the strongest signal present without results...

Make sure your range extender is set up properly by testing signal strength at tv....

https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/faq/874/

The speeds don't work out as advertised. At the cable router I have 200 MBs download. At the end of 150 ft of cable I only have 35 to 40 MBs. And you 50 MBs figure is Amazon recommends.

I'm pretty good at making RJ 45 connectors, but in this case they are factory, I haven't replaced them. On my computer, I use Ookla. The TV doesn't like that, but it does accept "fast.com". As does the computer. And yes, I must log in only when using WiFi. The cable isn't interested.

"At the cable router I have 200 MBs download. At the end of 150 ft of cable I only have 35 to 40 MBs"

If I were you, I would focus my attention on the above.. If the 200MB was validated by you, I'll back track and double check the integrity of ethernet cable it should not drop that much.. unless the 30 - 40MB was measured through WiFi which would only be normal.. Your internet connection if metered may also be compounding your problem?

The router location may also be a problem?? I'll also scan and monitor all connected devices along and after the router.. From my experience, a lot of unknown /unauthorized WiFi connected devices will naturally divide, wasting my bandwidth..

As I've found 6 unknown devices connected to my wifi that I already blocked..

Start your troubleshooting from a clean slate, then reconnecting one at a time while monitoring your bandwidth usage..

I disconnected the range extender "Wavelink" from 'zon. It provided good signal strength, but either there was jitter or something else, as it wasn't passing data. At first I thought it was the TV. But the cable router worked better even with the reduced signal strength.

Again I'm hoping to solve that with fiber.

Thanks S.E.

Yes, both routers and TV are on UPS back ups. The cable router of course is useless as the provider doesn't have battery back up. That is where Hughes comes in. In addition, if it seems power will be out for awhile, I switch to a 1500 watt pure sine wave inverter. Powered by 2 group 31's. With judicious use, I can get 12 hrs. After that I must connect a generator. I recharge the batteries with a 3 bank 40 amp Master Volt charger. Takes awhile but I top off the fridge and freezer at the same time.

I suspect your network has some device that is hogging the bandwidth. This might be because of frequent retransmission requests, excessive encryption packing, spybots or just too much useless traffic.

If things go "bad" when you connect a "good" cable then there is something bad going on that you don't currently recognize. I don't have your wiring diagram in my head. Your "data loss" is possibly data congestion caused by the endless chatter from an unhappy device. You could somehow have confusion caused by multiple DHCP servers, you may have introduced wireless access points talking to a neighbor's equipment or you may have a "ring" network instead of a "star".

In the end, understanding this may or may not be useful. But, when something "good" causes something "bad" to happen, you have a clue in front of you begging attention.

Network traffic analysis takes the guesswork out of troubleshooting network communication problems. Many free programs are available to monitor a network. Some are attenuated trial packages and some are completely open source.

You are correct that a "good" cable shouldn't cause something "bad" to happen but eventually adding one more "poor" communication link can cause a hidden marginal network to collapse.

Also to @BruceFlorida

In my case there is nothing else connected to the network. Only my computer and the TV. My cell is connected to Hughes as it's router sends a better 2.4 ghz signal than the cable. Location, Location, Location.

One thing I have discovered is that Ookla does not check for jitter. I found one that does https://testmyinternetspeed.org/jitter-speed-test.html. When I test for jitter the my 200 MBs drops to 125. And using that on TV gives me 70 - 90 MBs which is more than sufficient.

That doesn't follow. Something else is going on. I will check out the network APP.

Of course right now it is working perfectly

A note on CAT6 cable:

For best performance the twist must be maintained all the way up to and into the connector as far as possible.Also,do not use standard cable ties on the cable,as this will affect the signal.Use Velcro cable ties instead.Do not staple the coax.Do not step on the cable or allow anything to run over it.

Do not coil up excess cable,use only as much as needed,and avoid sharp bends in the cable.CAT 6 is very good,but it must be handled carefully with no kinks or bruising for best results.

The bend radius should be no less than 4x the radius of the cable ( approximately 25 mm or 1 inch),and the cable must not be stripped more than 1/2 inch(13MM).

Thanks All good points. So far the cable is on the floor. The weather has been a might to bright on the roof.

Not having a kink in the cable is especially important if you are downloading videos that must be safe for work. A kinkey cable will download kinkey videos.

This is an update to the speed tests

I have PC Win7 Pro; Laptop Win7 Pro; and the LG TV.

I found a site that tests for Jitter https://testmyinternetspeed.org/jitter-speed-test.html

6ft patch PC:Laptop:TV

Ookla: ,,PC 200,,Laptop 230,,TV N/T

Fast.com:,,PC 200,,Laptop 201,,TV N/T

Jitter: ,,PC 18,, Laptop 85,, TV N/T

150 ft cable

Ookla: ,,PC 94,,Laptop 200:,, TV94

Fast.com: ,, PC 94,, Laptop 210:,, TV 48

Jitter: ,,PC 19,,Laptop 63,, TV 32

The 6 Ft patch tests were taken within 30 seconds of each other. The rest all took several minutes to move the connections

I've no idea how to best interpret this info. I will call the cable provider and inquire about the jitter test(s)

The Laptop seems to show the best times, TV the worst. Today the 150 cable is not showing much loss on the Laptop, the only troubling reading is the Jitter test on the TV

FWIW, it is a cloudy day, I will run the cable and see what happens.

Just a comment FWIW..

Make sure that the laptop's network communication device drivers are up to date..

Using the ethernet cable should provide you with the most consistent results than wireless..

The smartTV typically prefers the 5GHz connection instead of the 2.4GHz

Video streaming dongles like Roku, video cameras, security systems mostly prefers the 2.4GHz wireless connections..

Use a wireless network scanner for any unwanted network riders /hogs that slows down your connection..

If possible log into your router as administrator to validate and improve your security, like adding mac address as a filtering will discourage extra network security.

I purchased new ethernet cable, it still has 45% loss. I want to go with fiber. I have two routers, cable and Hughes. The cable fails about once a week in which case I want to connect the Hughes router to the fiber to run the computer. It is slow but is fine for email etc. What type of converter do I need? Do I need only 2 units? What does anyone recommendt?

Thanks

J Welk

To minimize your confusions between outcome of tests and test results...

The speedtest results will normally vary between ISP companies and speedtest testing providers;

WiFi test results much slower than ethernet test results;

test results vary from speedtesting application to another app;

from your physical distance to the selected testing server locations,

Jitters are time delays between sent/receive of signals in (ms), like an echo encountered during long distance calls.. which also varies together with the speedtest.. the lowest the better.. it is different to latency which is another delay between devices..

To be conclusive for all tests, it is important to just pick the newest single portable device that is available to be used, like a laptop for comparative testing results between various vendors, applications, test parameters for both WiFi and ethernet..

Assuming the newer electronics, the better since it will have the latest communication hardware and software drivers...

Yes, that is exactly what I have found. I've tested with 4 different companies all with varying results. The Netflix fast.com seems to be the most reliable. As for WiFi yes it is slower than cable, especially going through concrete.

I will go with fiber as soon as I determine what type of converter(s) to buy

I did the same exact thing when AT&T completed the fiber run along my street..

I'm subscribe now getting the basic fiber speed offered at 300Mbs for $50.00 as compared to the old 20-25Mbs that came with Uverse TV which I cancelled... I'm now streaming Netflix and Roku together costing me about $30.00 plus the internet for a total of $80.00/mo. Comparably saving about $40/mo. from the basic Uverse service..

I don't need any other equipment other than the ONT/router-wifi box that came with the fiber service..

All my 18 connections are connected via WiFi using either 2.4 /5Ghz and only use ethernet cable when speed testing or troubleshooting internet connection problem..

So far the wifey is happy...