Help Loosen Aluminum Tubing

Depending on the diameter of the tubing and thickness you can try a strap wrench or even an oil filter wrench if you can get it over the end with the later. A good penatrating fluid should loosen the oxidation holding the tubing. You may want to check if oils should be used first in case the tubing is used in relation to areas that should not be contaminated with oils.

Sometimes we will attach beam clamps, pipe hangers or connecting clamps to pipe that is frozen together. This allows for extra leverage to seperate the pieces and limit scoring that might occur with a pipe wrench.

Do not attempt to remove one aluminum tube with a close fit to the other without an application of penetrating oil to prevent galling of the surface sliding against each other.

A friend in another company had a rotor frozen in the casing. Nothing they tried would loosen or allow removal till they tried "KROIL." Kroil was liberally applied to the joint, let set overnight and the rotor turned with ease and was pulled from the casing without damage to either surface.

Thanks Stan

I did forgot about Kroil. I have used many years ago, lost where to get it, but thank you for reminding me. The tubing is part of an antenna I am in the process of restoring. I had asked the manufacture the question, but got no answer from them who have been in business for at least 60 years. I have to get them apart to make sure of good contact surface, before I start investing money.

instrumentman36

Kroil is best, better that the rest!

Kroil is made in Nashville TN.

I would look at a product called: Corrosion Block or ACF-50. It is available at most marine supply stores or on the net.

This is the best penetrating oil I've found. It also has high dialetic strength. I have used it on aluminum. It was agressive in penetrating the aluminum surface. When I first applied it, pits in the aluminum surface appeared. I thought the oil had casued the pits, but after further investigation, it turned out that it simply penetrated thru the oxidized alumimun to reveal the exsisting pits.

The high dialetic strentgh makes it great for all kind of electrical applications. I would also coat your antenna connections.

It is water soluble, and can be washed off. It last much longer in dry conditions. I would google ACF-50 for spec's. I see that they now package ACF-50 in smaller consumer containers.

Hi Senatorferrell

Thank you for your input. Your approach sounds like it might be a bit better for alum tubing. If I get them apart will have to clean inside and for good rf contact anyhow

Thanks

instrumentman36

Excellent tip Garth, but may I also add that a piece of leather on the pipe to clamp surface will increase grip between the 2.

This all sounds good, i had an initially small problem of replacing the accumulator on the a/c unit of my1993 Holden Commadore, and i guess it was fitted when the car was new. The accumulator was aluminium and of course the inlet pipe and outlet pipes were flexible refrigeration pipes with threaded steel unions.

The small problem now became a headache, the aluminium/steel threads had grown together and the accumulator had grown to the fire wall. After purchasing two new lines and a new accumulator which came from different places around Australia it lightened my pocket to the tune of A$700, the problem won't recur they are all staino fittings.......the a/c unit will outlast the car.....if it has much life left in it.

A Schaeffer product called Penetro 90 is the best penetrant & lubricant available. It also protects the metal from further corrosion for about 1 year.

Gentlemen

First let me thank you all for your help with my problem. You all have some good suggestions as a way to handle it. I will march on and apply them. Well the manufacture sure could learn a few things plus now have another customer to spread why not to buy their product.

THANKS TO ALL

instrumentmen36

You could try Break-free as well. Once you get it apart, I'd coat the pieces with something like Dow 111 silicone grease to prevent problems in the future.

Also, you might try using the drywall sanding mesh type sandpaper between your gripper blocks and the tube, you'd be amazed at the amount of torque you can transmit that way with very little surface damage. Garth's idea of heat is a good one since aluminum has a very high CTE, but be careful how you apply it. don't use a torch for example. use a heating blanket/strap element or you'll melt the aluminum.

I use Mouse Milk find it works the best of all the products I have tried. Really problem is holding the mouse down to milk it and takes several mice to get enough to loosen one bolt. Try aviation suppliers for it.

Have you ever smell Moth Balls? I can't get 'em to stop wigglin'!

If I have a big moth ball in my right hand and a big moth ball in my left hand......What do I have?