Leaking Oilpan

Does it leak right away or only after time? If time is the problem, then it's the process. most gaskets 'relax' over time and leak. To prevent this, follow the proper torque sequence on the bolts. Wait 8 hours and repeat, that should stop the leaks.

We have followed all installation guidelines including waiting time torque spec etc. they end up leaking both immediately and after time. The problem is on the rear of the pan where it dips around the rear housing interrupting the flat plane on the lip.

Use loads of red Hermetite.... it worked (sort of) with the old British motorbikes, ok it did make them look like jam sandwiches, but it kept the oil where it should be, most of the time!!!

John.

<> RTV Silicone
<> RTV = Room temperature vulcanization -- cured at room temperature
<> Silicone --Is not compatable to engine oil.
<> I'm sure that this is not the recommended material
<> The rubber material you need is Nitrile / Buna N
<> I'm guessing that you are making this gasket.
<> Go to Mcmaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ look for Buna N film

1871T21 Oil-Resistant Buna-N Rubber Film .031" Thickness, 36" Width, 50A Durometer In stock at $12.54 per Ft.

the RED oil gasket RTV is the right stuff. Bothe the pan and the engine bottom must be scrupulously cleaned of any oil and degreased with grease free solvent or the oil film will form an oil path = leak.

Then apply and tighten up. It is very good.

A probabloy cause of problems are:-

1) You are not cleaning both surfaces as well as you should. I would use methylated spirits or similar as it does not leave a residue as most other solvents do. Use kitchen paper first alone and then kitchen paper with meths... Do not touch the surfaces. Go and wash your hands. Properly, no grease on them!!!

2) Put a thick bead of silicone on the pan. Give it twice as long as they say in a warm room to cure.

3) Before offering up, smear a small amount of silicone on the engine surface, mount pan, bolt up lightly, leave for 5 hours, then put another turn or so on each nut or bolt. The must not be screwed up as tight you would for a paper gasket, use feeling...if using a torque wrench, a guesstimate would be 1/5th of the paper torque.....its a "feely! thing" difficult to quantify.....don't squah the silicone up to nothing, half its "height" will be enough!!!

I really like silicone in such situations, it has worked for me where paper gaskets were useless.....

If you are good at fabricating, and the oil bath has not got the extra supporting piece of metal, with holes through it for the nus/bolts, make one so that the oil pan is really held up well and does not distort......even thick steel washers cut to fit will help...

I work For GM go to dealer and ask for GMS IT IS GRAY SEALENT USED ON ALMOST ALL OIL PANS IN gm line and no more gaskets

I used on an old geo that came factory with gasket not now and no leaks a little oil will not break the bond but the cleaner you can make surfaces before attaching together the better it will be very hard to remove oil pan after setup but will come apart if need be this stuff works great

Good post.

Thanks Andy,

I always look foreward to seeing posts from you and Dell(feline)

Del is better than I in many ways!! He CATches almost everything!!!

Permatex makes a product called "The Right Stuff". It will work extremely well in an oilpan sealing situation.

Tried it used it don't last. The application is highway plows. SALT destroys old pans so always a new one replaced. OE gasket maker fails. Right stuff fails. It takes an average of 3 attempts before we get a successful seal. This has been a problem for some time so all angles of cleaning prepping etc have been tried. What we need is an expanding type sealer that works the first time. Thanks for all the replies so far.

I do feel that you might be tightening up on the silicone too much.....I have seen it ruined in this way by really old and good mechanics.....it is difficult to stop turning early enough!!

I have used your method for years. (post #6) Ever seen a Triumph motorcycle or a Jaguar engine that didn't leak? I have!

Many thanks for your support.

Do you agree that it is difficult to judge when "tight enough" without over tightening ?

Not for you and me!! We both know now, but it was a long time ago and I spent a long time learning the correct way to use Silicone sealer....

All you have to do is think of the sealer as a kind of balloon and you want to tighten down on it just to the point before rupturing it. That allows it to remain "spongy" so it can expand or compress as necessary. As mentioned before, ABSOLUTE CLEANLINESS of both surfaces is imperative. Before applying a bead of silicone to surface #1, I rubbed in a little silicone on that surface to make sure there was complete wetting of the entire length AND width of the sealing surface. Then continued the afore mentioned procedure.

Of course, because you are applying less than a normal level of torque to keep the fasteners tight, Loctite is an absolute must. In my case with the motorcycle, that was a given.

I never used a gasket anywhere on it again except for the breaker point cover. I wanted to be able to get into it on the road and be able to seal it back up without a lot of fuss. It only needed to keep out rain and road grime anyway.

I have rated this a good answer, I forgot to mention the loctite!!

I used to slightly damage the thread in each nut years ago before I ever heard of loctite!!! BAD BOY!!! Locnuts came along (in my knowledge, they are older than I!) and were also used.....