paint finish

<First off where can you get the paint?>

The KrisDel^TM catalogue?

I have been using a crinkle finish from my local power-coater for the last year or so and I like it a lot. It's super consistent, won't show fingerprints, and is tough as hell. If your local shop can't help let me know and I'll track down the spec my shop is using.

If your application does not lend itself to PC, I have not heard of a consistent method to achieve the wrinkle finish. Rustoleum has some great finishes for a hammered look, but it's definitely not crinkle.

I inadvertently created a crinkle finish on a plastic motorcycle fender. I was working in the sun and the fender became warm as I sanded and prep'd the surface for painting. Be the patient person that I am I barely waited more than a few minutes between coates. By the time I had my last coat of paint on the sun had set and the fender started cooling. The end result was as the as the fender contracted it caused the paint to crinkle.

I know its not much help but may it will feed a few other ideas.

Almost any commercial paint vendor can help you. Generally, most are a baked-on finish (or as powder coating was suggested which also requires heat), so this only really works for metal parts.

If you're not looking for a commercial solution, or are working with plastic parts, you MIGHT try the Krylon(tm) shelf at the hardware store. I'm not sure if they offer any wrinkle or crinkle or texture paint, but its worth a try.

There is an amateur radio news group for people who restore old radio equipment which is also refered to as boat anchors because old tube type radios and transmitters tended to be large and they had multiple power and audio transformers as well as the odd iron core inductor which caused them to weigh a lot. Much of this equipment had a krinkle finish. The purists like to use the original finish on restored equipment.

Someone on the rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors news group might be able to help you.

WA2VVW here Whats your call?

VE6LDS

"WoW"! ~ look at all the help, thus far... and we don't even know whether you're working on plastic, aluminum, steel, stainless steel, or... "God-only-knows"!

Clearly, the type of paint (specifically, "coating") will be dependent upon the substrate and the environmental exposure to which the finished "Project" will be subjected... how long you'll wish it to last... and how much you are willing to spend.

And THEN ... the type of coating will determine in LARGE part what the degree of surface preparation will be; blasting with sodium bicarb, walnut shell, sand or grit of whatever size, etc... and what tests for degree of cleanliness are required.

NACE (National Association of Corrosion Engineers International) and SSPC (formerly Steel Structures Painting Council ... now the "Society for Protective Coatings") have written Joint Standards for such aspects to be addressed on preparation of many substrates, including concrete!

As with many other threads ~ the more good INPUT in the original post, the more VALID feedback you will receive.

Best Wishes for success with your endeavor.

There are two simple ways to crinkle the paint. both I learned while doing body work.

1. I you increase the accelleration of the thinners drying time, ie. you can buy paint thinners in slow, med, fast drying. They are actually based on the amient temperature. Use slow drying in warm weather, and fast drying in colder weather.

2. Either heat up the part to be painted or apply heat to the paint after applied. Thais is where the term "orange peel" comes from in painting. Where the finished product resembles an orange skin. The paint dried to fast.

Hope this helps

Ace Hardware and probably a number of home improvement stores. Years ago I repainted the air cleaner housing of my old Roadrunner and Ace was the place.

If there is any concern about the sub-straight, rough up the surface with 320, use a primer compatible with the sub-straight and shoot the "bug bomb" according to directions. (I hope Homeland Defense doesn't pick up on that) No need to turn a two dollar job into a hundred dollar project.

Add some sand to "pick-a-brand" black paint or add gravel to some tar and spread on with a trowel. Or lots of layers of industrial lead-based paint then a heat gun. Or powder coat it extra heavily. Take your pick. As I think one of you mentioned already some more data is needed or we're just throwing darts over our shoulders here.

J.L.

Go to the Pros. www.pfonline.com

Product Finishing Onine. This is not rocket science.

Steve