electro-mechanical experiment

Johann,

If you are not going to use a coil, how are you going to generate the low amperage, high voltage spark you need?

You could make sparks directly off the battery by attaching the spark plug with a single wire to one pole of the battery and attaching a steel plate to the other pole with another wire. You need to have long enough wires to get well away from the battery (say 20ft) so that you don't ignite the hydrogen fumes you create when you do this. The spark plug should last a short while before being totally melted. If this is what you have in mind it would probably be best to use welding cables, throw out the spark plug in favor of a welding rod.

If, however, you seriously want a continuous (or seemingly continuous) spark from your sparkplug; you may want to consider using that coil. One way to do this would be to get an automotive distributor (with cap, rotor, wires, points and condenser). You can then arange the plug ends of the plug wires around your sparkplug's input. Attach a grounding wire to the threaded end (use an aligator clip). Now you will need to hook up the positive wires from the distributor and coil to the positive end of the battery. Run the ground wire from the plug, distributor and coil to the negative end of the battery. Now you can chuck the distributor shaft in a drill motor. It would preferable to clamp the distributor body in a vise at this point to keep it from spinning with the shaft. Run the drill and watch the light show.

Yes the arc can be modulated by voltage.

Johann,

As Shadetree has so rightly stated, you can get a very destructive spark at 12V, lasting for a very short time (until meltdown).

To get from 12Vdc to a sufficiently high voltage to sustain an arc, you've got to convert the DC to some kind of AC, then use some kind of transformer (coil) to convert to a higher voltage. As has been pointed out, the easiest way is to use a contact breaker & an ignition coil. The CB gives you the AC, and the coil transforms the result to HV AC. (This is expressing it in simple terms - you seem to need it.)

To get away from that nasty, confusing distributor, look at a single-cylinder 4-stroke system. Battery - contact breaker - coil - HT lead - spark plug.

Or have you invented a way of directly converting low voltage DC to high voltage DC? If so, please can I buy some shares?

You said:what do I need to put in between a spark plug and a 12 v car battery to make the arc continuous. No timing (rotor) device and coil needed. Can the arc be modulated by varying the voltage. This would be the last problem to solve in my electro-mechanical experiment.

At standard temperature and pressure it requires about 33,000 V to jump a 33 cm (approximately 13 inch) gap. Divine intervention would be required, In order to obtain a successful experimental result, with your stated criteria. So hopefully there's a little flexibility available.

Besides being curious, it might help if we knew what you were building. The others have already mentioned increasing your voltage by various methods. Which is undoubtedly the most practical solution.

You could try to attach a sacrificial element i.e. carbon to one of the electrodes and try striking an arc.

I just collected some empirical data, and I was unable to strike a arc using a .5 mm pencil lead at 12 V DC. I'm sure pure carbon would work better, or possibly some other materials, however your arc is only going to last as long as you're sacrificial material does.

If you're doing this experiment just to win a bet you could try, A deep vacuum. It mite be possible, heavy emphasis on the mite too close to spark plug gap, place the plug in a container you can pull a vacuum on and obtain a spark with 12 V DC that way, but it's highly doubtful, and you'd lose a lot of the spark (affect ) in a vacuum.

Personally I would go with increasing the voltage. It can be done several ways fairly easily.

A deep vacuum. It might be possible, heavy emphasis on the might, to close the spark plug gap, place the plug in a container you can pull a vacuum on and obtain a spark with 12 V DC that way, but it's highly doubtful, and you'd lose a lot of the spark (effect ) in a vacuum.

What if, instead of a vacuum, you used a plasma (source undefined, but enclosing the spark gap), so that conduction takes place at this trivial voltage differential? Would the result constitute an arc?

Argh!!!!! You guys are over thinking the whole thing!!! See my other post, and remember what you were hit with when you violated your ex-wife's restraining order!!!

1 inch = 2.54 centimeters, thus 13 cm is NOT approximately 13 inches! I am trying extremely hard to not use profanity here!

You're on the right track re. vacuum: a pure vacuum would NOT produce a spark, regardless of the voltage. You'd get some beta radiation (i.e. a stream of electrons, just like in your TV), but you need a gas that can ionize to produce what we call a spark. And that ionized gas is - guess what - a plasma.

Shawn, thanks best answer yet. I'm not electrically inclined but I can change a light bulb. I know it takes high voltage my first car 1953 Pontiac checking spark plug wire for good connection, lesson learned.

What I need to know is : What type of transformer (S) and other components to put in a plastic box for static and shock protection . One wire in from the 12V battery one wire out to the spark plug , grounding like on a regular cp engine.

Now that's cheating. You said no coils. Shawn solution is great if you'll allow the extra electronics. Spark igniter coils are available in the HVAC supply houses, Granger, and similar places.

They're not too expensive, but beware of the voltage. HVAC igniters are generally 24 V AC input. Others voltages are probably available.

If you aren't cheating, you aren't trying. Of course I've noticed that I often just go with what I know. And I'm comfortable with inverters and spark ignitors. And, the problem we have is we don't know what he's going to DO with it.

This was just a generalization. What we all need to know is what are you going to DO with it. What kind of spark do you need? What is your budget? The inverter is the most expensive part potentially, depending on what kind of power requirements you need. Since a spark plug is usually used to ignite some form of fuel to make a fire, what size of fire are you making? How critical is it that whatever it is ignites the first time? What kind of gap do you need? Going the cheap route, you can always get a spark using the piezoelectric effect, i.e. the starter on a gas cooking grill. What you are doing has a large effect on what you need. There are some smart people here, but one thing we aren't is psychic.

You shouldn't need to be concerned with static protection - you're not dealing with semiconductors - which are the items typically vulnerable to static electricity (strictly - they're vulnerable to high voltages, but the risk is that the HV comes from a statically charged body - most likely, yours).

Shock protection is a good idea, however. I've not done enough HV work to know about insulation capabilities of various materials (for cable insulation or equipment enclosures). Most plastic boxes will probably be OK, so long as you don't penetrate them with metal screws, etc. Connectors on the HV side will be an interesting problem, but I expect there are manufacturers that specialize in exactly that sort of thing.

HTH,

Chris

"Connectors on the HV side will be an interesting problem"

Look up SHV or MHV connectors if you need to connect up to 10kV, after that it gets specialised & expensive. We pay around £40 in the UK for one half of a 30kV connector which we buy in reasonable quantities. You will also be looking at some special cable at those sorts of voltages & will have to pay close attention to surface tracking problems.

A transistorized high frequency oscillator to make continuous AC for the ignition coil primary. This would have to have a square (or spike) waveform and you still would need the condenser to resonate the circuit.

A cheap way( do demonstrate your experiment) would be to use a conventional 12 volt DC to 120 v AC inverter and run it through a neon transformer (for neon lights) in order to step it up to around 7 to 15KV. This will arc nicely across a conventional spark plug. Remember that as the cylinder pressure goes up, so does the required voltage to arc over the plug.

Technically, at 60 hertz, the plug will appear to arc over continuous but in actually, it goes out for a brief finite time period every 8.166 milliseconds. Not sure how you intend to use it.

Snakers

Woof!!! You guys get so friggin' complicated!!!

I have a small, black module that converts 6 Volts DC to 100,000 Volts DC! I got it on eBay for a couple of bucks. All he has to do is provide the appropriate DC voltage and he'll have all the High voltage, low amperage spark he needs.

One idea I will pose is if you're using more than one cylinder, you're going to have problems - the whole idea of a multi-cylinder engine is for each cylinder to fire in turn. If they're all continuously firing, I don't think anything is gunna go "roundie-round!!!"

hi vermin. is there a name for that thing you bought on ebay?

I'll check. Hold on...

Suck! I searched on a lot of things related to 100,000 Volts, but the best I came up with was a bunch of stun guns. However, they use these converters. So, if you bought one, you could easily power your spark plug. On the other hand, I suggest you do some more mining on eBay, 'cause I know the guy had several of these converters for sale.

Regards,

vermin-

There was a circuit I got from a electronics book, it used a HT transformer from a B/W TV (yes, for those young enough, TV's were once Black and White, and some shades of Grey) Those transformers were not closed and you could wind your own coils on the core yourself.

With a 2N3055 (or 2), some hand windings on the transformer, you had HT output, tuned to the HT transformers resonant frequency, and the spark plug gap would heat up the 3055's, as it would happily run a continous 1" (25mm) arc ;o)

Many ants were not that happy that day :P

Wait... First you'll need a nuclear reactor on wheels to provide you with AC power. Then...

Whats the AC for?

Its a self exciting circuit... touch the output, and you find how exciting it can get :D

Read my first post.

I have a feeling that we have had this question(er?) before for a similar problem.....it was something to do with a new style of motor then.....

Perhaps he will share with us a few more details.....

I know you said no coil, but what about an LOPT (flyback transformer) for the CRT in a telly:-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_transformer

like this one for just over a dollar:-

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=TFFBT4022661&N=0

Of course you'll have to find your own local source of obsolete stock, unless you want to pay the postage.

I know nothing about electrics but could you use one of those cascade type circuits that you find in air ionisers?

Hi Johann,

I am always amazed at the variety of ways to skin a cat so to speak that members come up with.

What you need is an battery operated gas stove ignition unit [ not the hand held type] 12volt ones used in caravans also in domestic stoves 9volt and 12 volt units various types are available. Two wires from the battery to the unit and two wires to the spark plug. Your high voltage circuit is totally isolated from the 12volt circuit.Thats as about as simple as you can get!

If you use a 9 volt unit on 12volt you will produce a higher HV output but not sure if the unit will last to long it might be ok 3volt difference is probably tolerable, also if you want to vary the 12 volt input you will have some arc modulation to what extent I do not know as these units were not designed for that specifically.

Henry Ford did something similar on the model T. A wood box with a coil (transformer), capacitor and buzzer. Every time the buzzer cycled the spark plug ignited. The fuel ignited when the compression was high enough. OK it wasn't the most efficient but it runs the model T today.

How to get the voltage high enough without a transformer (coil)?

Reduce the gap to accomodate a lower voltage?

I had one of those as a kid!

It was in a plastic box for a Ford Tractor replacement bought at Canadian Tire...Ok so that was 40 years ago.

Just use an ignition coil, and a 12 volt door buzzer. Connect the primary of the coil across the coil of the buzzer. The capacitor from a set of breaker points across the buzzer contacts may keep the contacts living longer.

Then wire it up to the screen window the cat pees on. (Sorry Dell!)

The purpose of the coil is to convert the 12 volt dc potential to some voltage potential that will jump the open air gap between anode and cathode of the spark plug. Others have suggested an igniter for starting a furnace. Most are low voltage AC. If you are to stay with 12 DC battery use the a coil. The points which open and close the primary of the coil replace with an SCR. Use a timing circuit to fire it. Design the timing circuit to be adjustable. This will allow you to adjust for optimum spark.

I am empathizing with Vermin here. As a matter of fact, I'm considering giving up varmint hunting just because of him!

With a little more detail we might be able to help you further still.

I am wondering Johann, is your battery attached to a charging system such as an alternator? If so we could reduce the complexity even further by tapping into the AC produced by the alternator and using some sort of voltage multiplier circuit.

Insofaras a plug, you might look into the plugs they use in those forced-air kerosene heaters:

I think they sustain a constant spark. As a matter of fact, you might just be able to use the plug and the circuitry from one that has been scrapped.

DAG, yes it could be hooked up to the car alternator. didn't know it makes ac voltage.Now you have to get away from thinking of a conventional piston combustion engine.Ignition manuf. tell me distributer and coil are not on the market for what I need.I do not need a spark control for various RPMs.

Generally automotive alternators produce three phase AC. The voltage is dependent upon the speed of rotation or the excitement of the field. The voltage regulator should regulate the current to the field thus controlling the voltage. I'm not sure how it woud it effect the voltage regulation, but you can tap into one phase (maybe even use all three phases) of the AC before it goes to the rectifier. My grandfather has some nifty devices on his vehicles that he set up this way. It's kind of funny to see a household electrical outlet on the back of a farm tractor.

Do some reading up on alternators and automotive voltage regulation. There is a wealth of information that might help you.

Are you trying to sustain a spark for ignition in a turbine engine by chance?

DAG, not turbine but rotary engine. Calculated combustion would tun the rotor 30 to 40K Spark has to occur every 120 deg per revolution. Spark control would be difficult with RPM change. Fuel injection is controlled by air pressure. An alternator without a voltage regulator, how much does the voltage output change with various RPMs.and can a transformer use this voltage to the level a spark plug needs .

The way an alternators output varies with RPM is due to the way the gap between rotor and stator is designed (I am putting this fairly simply!), apologies but its a long time ago for me!!!

You can have an alternator with a "drooping" characteristic with load/RPM, generally about 45% from no load to full load without any correction (Automatic Voltage Regulation). This is often the characteristic we had on RN Alternators in my time in the Service.

You can design it so that once above a certain minimum RPM, the voltage remains basically constant irrespective of load/RPM up to its given maximum, this is what I believe that most car alternators use that do not have any form of electronic voltage control.

Hi Andy,

I am thinking if the alternator speed is kept at a reasonably high revs Ie above the droop point, Manual or automatic variation of the field current will give a variable [ assuming some form of modulation is required] or fixed AC voltage [Tapped into before the rectifier diodes] which can be used to power up a high voltage inverter. Also the high frequency of the AC output lends itself to this type of operation. High frequency arc generators used in plasma cutters and Tig welders use this sort of method.

I would tend to agree with you, but remember, it depends on how the gap was made, what the characteristics are....drooping or flat!! Like other "manly" things!!

Andy , you know I opened this forum a few moth ago, nobody came up with a concrete solution on how to modify a conventual 12V car ignition system to make a continuously arcing spark plug thereby eliminating any distributer , coil and timing devices. It has to ignite the same air-fuel mixture like in a conventional piston engine.

I wonder if there is an auto-electrical engineer out ther that can tell me how to pit this together.

You wont get by without some form of high voltage coil

"You wont get by without some form of high voltage coil"

I agree. But conventional spark coils are NOT designed for continuous duty, but for generating pulses at intervals. They are usually made to run on 8 - 9 volts (given 12 for starting, and then the short is taken off the ballast resistor when the key goes to the "run" position. The full 12V is often applied in parallel to the starter motor, and the coil sees the lower voltage at all other times. The Model T "trembler coil" has a lot to recommend it for this. Johan: is there some reason not to run your tests with such a thing as a stopgap measure, figuring that if the test is successful, that is on the short list for refinement?

Furnace igniting coils of some types, and the ones that were used for air-cooled cars' gasoline heaters would work; the ones I've seen used points on the fan's shaft just as though feeding the spark plugs of the engine. The arc occurred frequently, several times per second, but was not continuous (VW Microbus / Transporter, and VW Type IV). Similar things may be available for travel trailers / caravans used in cold climates.

Hi Ron, you have not read the reason why I need a continuous arc system for this rotary engine. There is no system on the market to that can fire so fast per minute .

Contact a after market ECU manufacturer, Haltech, MoTeC, Wolf (I think also) Autronic...

They should be able to help you with this, I know they guys at MoTeC have a ECU that will drive injection and spark timing on a multi-stage rotary engine.

I understand that you need a continuous arc, as we all do, but if it is acceptable to feed an HT coil with a relatively high frequency square wave (I do not know the upper frequency of such a coil is, sorry, but it has to probably be at least 10KHz or better I would guess), you will get what "appears to be" a continuous arcing.

It would/should be possible to control this arc to a degree by changing the "mark-space" ratio of the frequency and of the size of the input voltage. What springs to mind is a lowly 555 chip and something like a 2N3055 power transistor, suitably buffered with a small Darlington to match the output of the 555 to the base of the 2N3055.....or something along those lines......attached of course to an uprated Racing oil cooled ignition coil. Keep the coil cool, or at least monitor its temperature....

There could even be something a little more modern electronically than the items I have suggested.....

I have not experimented recently, so I am loath to stick my neck out too far, but in the early 70s, I made myself a capacitor discharge spark ignition system that could produce inch long continuous arcs of a fine blue (important) color!!! Sadly I do not have the schematic anymore.....

It really depends EXACTLY on your definition of "continuous" and if such a frequency would be acceptable or not....otherwise I am at a loss to help you......but there have been many other excellent posts with regards to certain "igniter's" for various units that must help you further......

I did read your post #39 saying rpms of 30 to 40k were calculated. But does this engine START at those speeds? At 30,000 rpm, you need 1500 sparks per second (that is, 30k divided by 60 to give 500 revolutions per second, times 3 sparks per revolution), and I'm not seeing a reason that you cannot have three five-hundred-sparks-per-second systems (MANY modern cars use individual coils, one per cylinder, though certainly they cannot reach these frequencies). Again, the term "stopgap measure for testing": what about TESTING with an ordinary DC arc welder? The old Lincoln "tombstone" came in an AC/DC model; you'd need to add some high-voltage capacitors to reduce ripple, I suspect, but you'd have a source of continuous arcing. Probably need to initiate the arc by putting a short across the electrodes (as discussed by several others earlier in this thread), and use platinum- or tungsten-tipped spark plugs. You may have to have them anyway, with a continuous arc, to avoid immediate meltdown. Or, look into TIG welders (DC, again), which have an automatic start using high frequency to intiate the arc, then maintain it by establishing a plasma (a term I mentioned back in post #11 on this thread). Search on terms TIG DC Weld or TIG Weld Frequency for background. It might be necessary to run the spark plugs in series so that all three arc continuously from a single supply, but this will partly depend upon your mechanical situation. Using three TIG welders in parallel might get costly, but ONE you might be able to borrow or rent for the testing phase.

Find out if your engine works as expected and get it de-bugged, first, THEN refine the ignition source. Or is there some undefined reason why this can only be tried in final configuration, running off of a car battery, and at full speed?

Hi Ron, please read #39 again. It says at 30,000 RPM and a spark every 120 deg. per revolution that means 90,000 sparks per min. or 1500 per second. Ignition Mfg.tell me ,we don't make it and nobody needs it and 2o battery's or a Lincoln welder wont fit in a Porsche ,Mercedes or any other car.

True, I'm trying to take a shortcut and find a person that can tell me what to put in between the car generator and the spark plug or just a pin to make a continuous spark (arc).

Until I solve this problem ,I can't make a model and patent it. Patent Office advised me : this is such a revolutionizing idea that I should make a model first.

Do you actually need a spark or will a glow plug work. I understand you are trying to fire a fuel air mixture. Perhaps a heated wire made of tungsten or similar (like a light bulb filliment, but thicker).

Feeding a coil on the 12 volt side with a square wave of 1500 Hz should do what you want I feel. one could even use 3 coils so that the spark from each coil is only generated one per revolution.

I am assuming that you have some sort of sensor on a flywheel or similar, that will be used to set the spark off, well you may need 3 sensors, 120° apart.....

Using only 12 volts on a coil as a normal IC engine used to do means having enough time between sparks for the energy to decay, slowing everything down, but feeding it with a high(er) voltage than 12 volts, means that you do not have to wait so long!!!

I feel that feeding the coil with a square wave of around 100 volts at 1.5Khz, will do exactly what you want it to do.....

Due to the need to keep things secret at this time, it is very difficult for us to really help you much as everything we will suggest will not be unusable for one reason or another!!!!

Does the spark need to be exactly timed? Continuous sparking (no timing), is that a good or bad idea?

Hi Andy, you know timing is critical in a conventional piston engine it has to be right for various RPMs. Look up previous info. At 30,000 RPM that means 90,000 sparks per min. or 1500 per second, would be difficult to modulate sparks electronically for various RPMs. With a continuous arc no timing of any kind is needed. RPM is controlled by varying air pressure from 130 to 150 psi and that will control fuel amount to be injected. ( continuous arcing would burn all the fuel ,wouldn't it?)

I hope you can see there is no mystery why a continuous arc or ceramic glow chip is needed for this rotary engine. I don't want to blow your mind but at 180 deg. another combustion takes place.

Having produced myself (accidentally) a continuous spark so many years ago, I still do not see the problem......it is possible to do......

Also, I feel you should start off with less RPM anyway and build up to the maximum, eg. get it working at low speed first!!

The old rotary I had had twin Dizzy, coils and plugs.

For the twin plugs, the 2nd plug was lower on the side of the block, so then you had the initial firing, then a few degrees later the second plug would fire

3 Sensors are not really needed, a single sensor and a "home" triggure and a after market ECU.. these sit happily in the Dizzy

At those RPM's, you wouldn't have a single magnet mounted on the pulley/flywheel, you'd have 3 to try to keep everything harmonically balanced.

Hi Garth, What if a wire is connected to the generator before the rectifier . connect that ac output to a transformer to increase that voltage sufficient high to create the continuous arcing. What ells is needed besides good insulation, shielding and grounding.

Hi Johann.

Google this link "Alternator secrets" this will explain connections.

However wiring a high voltage transformer to the ac output would have large variations due to driven speed varying with engine speed wherever you decide to drive this from certainly would not like 30000 rpm, you have to work out dc field regulation to stabilise this you need a dc pulse to energise the alternator on start up.

But at low start up speed you would not have any ac voltage to fire your spark plugs so it is a chicken and egg situation. This brings you back to a 12volt dc high voltage system again of which previous posts have made some suggestions. I would pursue this line of thinking.

I've not seen it mentioned in the other posts, so here's another suggestion.

Since you want a continuous spark, you need a high voltage DC supply - capable of supplying enough current to provide the spark without draining the supply (temporarily).

There is a circuit made of diodes and capacitor called a Charge Pump (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charge_pump, but also simply google Charge Pump) - that runs off low voltage DC and can generate HV DC. If you need to build a system to your own specifications (rather than to whatever specs were used for an off-the-shelf system) this is probably the way to go. I bet you can find on the web enough info to build one for yourself.

As to modulating the arc - what is you're intention there? Hotter/cooler? That would be accomplished by varying the current - which ultimately is controlled by the voltage you're driving the spark with. If you build a charge pump you'll find that its a bit like a ladder - and therefore provides a number of stages you can tap into, to get different voltages. The one problem with that, however, would be that you wouldn't be able to guarantee continuity of the spark as you switch from one tap to another. To overcome that I'd recommend having two spark plugs - one permanently attached at your lowest desired power level and one switchable.

Have fun - and don't kill yourself!

Arcs and sparks can be a lot of fun. Once you have a fat arc (high current) across the spark plug gap, the voltage across the gap will drop to a fairly low value, on the order of a few volts. So, there are two problems to solve: (1) initiating a high-current arc and (2) limiting the current to a safe value after the arc is established.

You need to do a bit of trial-and-error to find out if the 12 v car battery will sustain an arc across your spark plug. I've never tried this, but I suspect it will if the gap is small enough. Try using a length of nichrome wire, say three or four feet long and 24 gauge, to act as a series current limiting resistor. Hook up the battery, the wire, and the sparkplug in series. Now initiate the arc. Sometimes all it takes is a hot flame, like you get from one of those blow-torch type butane lighters. Or you can try shorting the plug gap with a paper clip wire (or a short length of nichrome wire) and draw an arc by slowly withdrawing the lead.

If you are successful in striking the arc but is goes out right away, there is probably not enough current to sustain ionization in the gap. Try using a shorter length of nichrome current-limiting wire, or connecting two or more batteries in series to raise the voltage. In the event the arc is too strong and tends to melt the electrodes on the spark plug, just add a longer length of nichrome current limiting wire. Be careful with the nichrome wire: it can become very hot.

If all you want is a big fat arc, I discovered many moons ago that a small DC supply using full wave rectification of the line voltage, with a 100 microfarad filter capacitor providing some filtering, will produce a very nice hissing arc when connected in series with a one to ten henry coil. You can full-wave rectify the line voltage with four 1N4004 silicon power diodes, and 100 uF 500 working volts dc electrolytic capacitors are available on the surplus market (hard to find new ones since vacuum tubes vanished). Or just hook up ten or fifteen car batteries in series.

Could you ease the problem a bit by using 2 spark plugs firing alternately, that way you would be looking at a fast spark rate but not continuous.

I have read all the replies and I wanted to add that at a home show [many years ago]there was a "high efficiency" furnace booth from a large known manufacturer. I cannot remember which one. the technician explained that the pulsed flame was ignited by " a small ceramic chip which became white hot, meant for continuous duty and the fuel / air mixture was aimed at it.[?] " this junction was about the size of a coin. I remember that it was the first and only one like it. I am sorry that I cannot remember any more from 1985-87[?] I hope this helps. your project sounds interesting.

good luck - Al

CRAP!!!

Just go to eBay, buy a cheap stun gun, pull it apart, get the DC-to-DC converter out of it, and you have at least a 50,000 Volt spark on tap... And none of this "Put it through a transformer, and blah blah blah!"

How about a Tesla coil? that would look cool mounted to the roof or the bonnet of a car, and you'd get the spark energy your after ;o)

Then when you park it, it would make a pretty nice deterrent to anyone wishing to steal it ;o)

I like it!!!

Is this what you were thinking of?:-

Tesla Car Protection

Before I click your link, I think I know what it is, but yes :D