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Pipe Sizing for Backyard Irrigation?

06/09/2006 2:32 PM

Our neighborhood of three acre horse properties is watered by a concrete open irrigation canal that runs between the properties.

The most simple flooding is managed by opening a port into the canal and blocking the canal with a dam. When guided into a small ditch it floods the property and waters the pastures.

My property has pipes the same size as the ports that carry the water under the fence onto my land.

Now I want water on the front of the property in an area I cannot normally flow to, so I would like to run pipe under my gravel drive some 300 feet and bring a port into my forward pasture. I also know some of the neighbors have tried this and failed, but the details of the failure are unknown to me, (and them obviously).

I work with aircraft instrumentation, but it seems clear that if the port is below water level, then water must go in. I even think on my current 10 foot pipes there is something of suction/syphon going on as we get a LOT of water out of a small pipe (12 inches). But if I then turn this pipe down 3 feet, extend it 300 feet and bring it back up to the surface... should the pipe be larger to allow for friction losses; should the pipe be the same size for some undefined syphon effect... or should I plan on installing an open riser to break any syphon...?

I can take the loss of the pipe I will fill but never empty, but it must flow fast enough to keep up with supply, i.e. the current 10 foot section of 12 inch I use now is not a bad measure. But how does one calculate things like head pressure on an open canal?

Any and all welcome, thanks in advance;
Emmett

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#1

hydraulic law? What's happening in the pipe? This?

06/09/2006 11:28 PM

The weight of water at the inlet will move the water equal weight and equal volume toward the outlet. An air brake/vent will lose the effect weakening any siphon advantage downsteam. Consider the pipe size all the same. A bit larger size toward the end may not matter. A smaller section toward the outlet decreases volume but may increase any minor hight disadvantage at elevation outlet. Test equal size all the way first. The last 10 feet - This slightly smaller size near the outlet may help push slightly less water out higher, faster.

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#2
In reply to #1

Re:hydraulic law? What's happening in the pipe? Th

06/10/2006 11:36 PM

I'm not an engineer, just a plumber. I think however my experience in this area may help. What is most important is the ultimate elevation of the outlet in relation to the inlet. Water will flow "uphill" so to speak, through the siphon action but only if there is no vacuum break and the outlet is physically lower in elevation. By your description of the terrain, it's not clear if the outlet is actually lower, in fact it sounds like it is at the same elevation if not a little higher which would explain why your neighbors have been unsuccessful. Why not consider a pump of some sort? If your only dealing with a few feet of head it wouldn't take a lot of power to move a significant amount of water. As far as friction loss is concerned, if your talking 10 to 12 inch pipe, I don't think that will be a concern over 300 ft. Hope that helps.

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#3

water flow

06/11/2006 10:58 AM

What is the difference between the inlet and outlet elevations? If both ends are open to the atmosphere water will seek it's oun level. What are doing with the water at the outlet? Are filling a cistern or irrigating the pasture. Once you determine the difference in elevation you can figure the head pesssure. 0.433 x the difference in elevation (in feet)will give you the head pressure available. Is the pipe smooth or corrigated? Is the pipe completely full of water or is air entering from the discharge end? Turning the outlet up will prevent air from entering and thus allow the pipe to fill with water. Is the pipe pitched correctly over it's entire length? If the line raises up and down throughout the run you will be traping air and thus reducing the capacity of the pipe line.

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#4

Re: Pipe Sizing for Backyard Irrigation?

03/30/2007 4:15 AM

To determine the flow rate you may have to consult the friction curve for that pipe.

friction is usually giving in metres per 100 m.

if you have a drop of 300mm meter inlet to outlet you can accommodate a flow that will give 0.3 / 300 = 0.1 m/100m.

The top of the water in the canal is the starting level.

Note that air release valves may be required on high points.

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#5

Re: Pipe Sizing for Backyard Irrigation?

06/09/2010 7:49 AM

I would consult online with Koby Zucker about this - he is very helpful on these matters. You can also view his irrigation systems and equipment on his site: www.irrigationglobal.com

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