Proper Way of Wiring 8pin 120ac Volts Coil Relay

run a neutral wire to pin 8 (one side of the relay coil)

run a hot wire to the common on the limit switch.

run a wire from the N/O terminal on the limit switch to pin #7 on the relay (other side of coil)

Run the load from the motor through pins 1 and 5 (n/o) on the relay...

____________________________

it's all in the way you feed power to the relays and the switches.. more details needed.. have fun.

CORRECTION!!!

On an octal socket (8 pin) relay, the coil of the relay is on pins 2 and 7, NOT pins 8 and 7!

The N.O. contacts would then be pins 1 and 3, not 1 and 5

'ice' cube, not octal..

What's your point? Most relays I have ever seen that plug into octal (meaning 8 pin) sockets are referred to as "ice cube" type because they resemble them by virtue of the square shape and clear plastic covering. There are socket relays with 8 flat blades that look similar, but even on those, the coils are labled A nd B, or A1 and A2. Terminal 1 is NOT th coil.

The original equipment manufacturer that produces these relays will have a data sheet that shows the wiring connections available. What is "proper" depends upon what is "required".

<...need to control a N/O limit switch to activate a hydraulic motor (chain conveyor)and when the chain conveyor is activated by N/O LS, the 2nd limit in N/C position to stop the signal( I need the N/O Ls when it closes to stay close until 2nd N/C brakes signal and stops the chain conveyor, the N/O LS will be activated by an arm that passes thru) ...>

This requires thinking about as part of the design process, from which the correct circuit will emerge.

The start signal--Limit switch #1-- Relay changes state and has a seal-in through N.O. contacts and will run the motor even after limit switch #1 opens and continue until the limit switch #2(N.C.) is reach and is opened if it is wired in series with limit #2 and the seal-in. The circuit would be ready for the next cycle after limit #2 returns to its closed state.

Wire control power to terminal #1.

Wire terminal #3 in series with limit #2(N.C.) and then back to terminal #2. SEAL-IN and STOP

Wire control power to limit #1 N.O. contacts and land it on terminal #2. START

Neutral lands on terminal #7.

Signal to your motor or solenoid through Terminals #8 and #6

sorry, I borrowed your relay schematic--but it is rock solid--JRaef

go to

http://www.turck-usa.com/illustrations/B1200_11.pdf

Hi Elder1

This assumes a standard 8 pin relay. The coil and pin numbers are Always marked on the relay and/or the base/socket it plugs into.

I hope this helps you:

When the Normally Open limit switch LS1 is flagged, the motor control relay coil will be energized and will close the relay contact #'s 1 & 3 and 6 & 8. Contact #'s 1 & 3 will start the motor and contacts #'s 6 & 8 will "Latch" the control relay "ON" and keep it on until the Normally Closed limit switch LS2 is flagged. When LS2 is flagged its contacts will Open and remove the power "Un-Latching" the relay and reset it to its normal state thus turning off the relay and the motor.

Have fun!

Jeff

I would only change where LS2 N/C is in the circuit to prevent the motor from being activated when that limit switch is switched. I would put in on the other side of the coil between the coil and neutral.

Or maybe even better yet. Ahead of LS1.

Like so.

Hi Keywalker

Thanks for the circuit update. It would work well as long as the same flag/flag system that flags LS1 also flags LS2.

However, if there are seperate flags/flag systems for each switch and the conveyor stopped "on" LS2 then LS1 can't start the conveyor again.

Even with my simple circuit, if there are seperate flags then the LS1 flag will have to have a longer "duration" than for LS2 to make sure LS2 is "off".

Actually, the best way is to let the cube relay control the coil of a heavier-duty motor contactor thru pins 1 & 3 of the control relay so it will last longer. Allowing the cube relay alone to power the motor would probably result in replacing the cube often due to roasted contacts.

Jeff

Jeff or anyone,

I'm a novice and have an existing 110VAC 8 Pin DPDT Normally Closed Cube Relay Model #275-0217 w/ 275-220 socket by Radio Shack.

I will supply power to the relay with a 110VAC Photo Cell and need to power a 110VAC Water pump. Need to know in depth how to wire the relay, In other words which wire goes to which pins on the input side and which wire goes to the output pins. I can wire the Photocell, it has very clear instructions on it. (White to White and also will go to relay), (Black to Black into photocell), (Red coming out of Photocell will go to relay). White and Red will supply power to relay.

Thanks in advance.

Hello novicearc

Below is a simple diagram. The pin numbers are the relay pins. I'm assuming that the photo switch is normally opened and will close when the photo switch becomes active.

Coil Pin 2 is connected to the photo switch output. Coil Pin 7 is connected to the 110vac system Neutral.

Pin 1 is connected directly to 110vac source and pin 6 is connected directly to 110vac Neutral.

Pin 3 is connected to the motor's power-in side and pin 8 is connected to the motor's Neutral connection. Please make sure that the motor is properly grounded to the system ground especially if the motor has a metal casing.

When the photo switch output becomes active it will supply the relay coil pin 2 with 110vac and the relay will become activated. Relay pins 1 & 3 and 6 & 8 will become connected and power the motor. The motor will continue to run until the photo switch is deactivated.

The contacts on the relay you have are rated at 10 amps for 110vac. You didn't mention the pump motor size you are going to use. Your relay will run a small motor (< 1/2 hp). Make sure the wire you use is rated for the maximum amp draw of the motor. You should probably install an inline fuse or small circuit breaker in the line before relay pin 1 to protect the wire.

Post if you have any questions.

Thanks, that is exactly what I need.

OK..I'm a little happier with this:

Motor starter for what?--He has a hydraulic motor and will probably open a solenoid.

Hi CrazyHaole

I stand corrected with regards to the way in which I switched the hot and neutral as if an electric motor was being used. My mistake.

But I still prefer the use of a heavier-duty motor contactor even to control the valves of a pneumatic or hydraulic motor because they will normally take more abuse and outlast a cube type relay. Plus they are able to be manually manipulated if needed for trouble shooting.

I guess I'm just a lover of over-kill.

Overkill is grand--It just seems we got off topic a little and I bet his needs are fairly simple--If I am not mistaken all he wanted was a way to seal-in the conveyor after the first switch opens after starting it and prior to the second limit switch being reached. I had to re-read the original post, before beating this one to death--Ha!

SNYGOLFSGS, I agree and had a motor starter with auxillary contacts in my mind when I pictured a simple solution.

Step one is to get an electrician or serviceman; if anything should happen, at least it won't be your fault.

IF you are an electrician who does not know how to use relays (and I have met a few), then...

This ensures that if the conveyor has reached the stop point you CANNOT start it again; it also ensures the load of the motor will not be through the control switches. If this motor uses more then 10 amps, I highly suggest a motor starter that this will control. This also assumes a standard 8 pin relay cube style that is DPDT (double pole, double throw 110v AC)

If you are not good at reading schematics from my previous post, then this requires the following:

Mount the relay in a box, you should have the following wires in this box:

1. A Set of wires for power (110v ac, a hot and a neutral)

2. A set of wires from the limit switch that starts the conveyor

3. A set of wires from the limit switch that stops the conveyor.

4. The relay base

5. A set of wires to power the motor

With that you do the following, connect a jumper from your neutral to #2 on the relay (not directly to it, the motor will need a neutral connection too and better to only have 1 wire firmly under the contact)

Then your 110 hot feeds into one of the wires going to the STOP limit switch (NC), the one that returns jumps to feed the NO limit switch, and goes to #1 on the relay base.

From the return on the NO limit switch you goto #7 on the coil, you also attach a jumper from #3 to #7 (or else it will stop when you let go of the momentarily closed normally open switch, this is because once the coil closes it, the power feeding from #1 goes through #3 and keeps the coil closed on #7)

Then you feed 110 hot to #8 on the relay base, followed by a wire from #6 on the relay base to your motor (not the same one that returns from the NC switch, but the same one that feeds it.

Wirenut and tape your 110 hot wire/NC limit switch FEED/jumper to #8

Wirenut and tape your NC limit switch RETURN/jumper to #1 and to your NO switch

Wirenut and tape your neutral to the coil, neutral to motor, and neutral from power supply.

A important note about my schematic- the stopping proximity/limit switch ensures it BREAKS operations when it is engaged. The coil cannot maintain- nor can it trigger. And it is not recommended you break the neutral on a single phase motor.