Nissan Navara Ute Engine Change

Maybe you can remove all the bolts from the sump pan to allow some movement, but don't actually take the pan right off? E.G It will be free to move fore/aft whilst still being effectively in situ.

Maybe the gearbox can be lowered a tad and tiled to generate some room? E.G get it all on an angle... high at the front, low at the back?

Have you tried googling for the answer...there are loads of auto problem type websites.

Good luck...

Del

(Oh yes...how did you get it off? Reverse the process )

Hey Del, How are you going?

The way I got the old engine out was to split it at the bell housing (that was when I found I had a problem) that gave me just enough room to reach inside and remove the six bolts holding the clutch on. This then allowed me to move the engine vertically upwards. I can't use the reverse procedure as I wouldn't be able to centralise the clutch!

Your other method won't work either (unfortunately) as the sump pan is almost flat across the bottom of the engine block (while going over the front axle) until it gets near the flywheel where it goes deep for the oil strainer (just behind the front axle). Not much room for any play even when slackened off. I even thought about removing the engine strainer as well but I can't do that with the engine sump pan vertically in place!

Yes, I have sent the same story to "JustAnswer.com" loads of (Nissan) experts online 24-7! Spent AUD27.00 for an answer that I haven't got yet.

THIS MEANS THAT DEL THE CAT IS QUICKER IN RESPONDING THAN 7000 ADVERTISED GURU'S (and at no charge)!

It's great to have your help Del (et al). I think I might have to go for the splitting of the front axle yet!

Actually, the story gets even worse. While considering the sump removal option, I removed the sump on my new engine (from the scrap yard) only to discover that there was a lot of broken up debris of what looks like a plastic gear inside (I'm guessing that it is something to do with the timing chain)! I decided to reject the engine and am trying to work out procedures while I look for a better lump!

I hope somebody will come up with an installation method as I might be putting the old engine back in!

Have you done an engine swap before? Do you have a clutch centering tool (it looks like a plastic transmission input shaft)?

Can I ask what happened to the old engine that caused you to need to replace it?

Suggestion: go to your local library, and look in the reference section for a repair manual for your Ute. Even small town libraries sometime have manuals that people have donated. Failing that, go to your local auto parts store and buy a repair manual. It will make the job that much easier. Plus, it will give you the added bonus of having a book on hand when something else goes wrong.

In this age of internet usage, people tend to forget that there are other sources for information. It is no longer taught in schools that the local library should be the PRIME resource for anything you need to know.

Yes Charlie, your right. I usually run up a centering tool on my lathe but, centering the clutch is not the problem. I just haven't got the room to get the engine into the engine bay unless something else is shifted.

I have a choice:-

a) Split the front axle just to one side of the front dif and remove one wheel and shaft or,

b) Remove the gearbox almost completely or

c) Remove the sump and hope I can get it back in once the engine is installed.

It all comes down to which option is going to give me the least hassle to replace.

Yes cobber! I've done many engine changes in my lifetime but never one where there isn't enough room to attempt the job in the first place.

I usually end up thinking how the car was assembled in the first place. This one was obviously put together on the chassis first and then the body thrown on after. I haven't got the kit left to do this option as I am moving 500 k's North next week and most of my stuff has already gone. Not a happy situation!

Oh, almost forgot, the reason for the engine change was a nasty noise from within! It was alright when pulling and also alright when decelerating but the bit inbetween was enough to rattle fillings out. Top end or bottom end, who knows? The cheapest option was to swap the lump, UNTIL NOW!

Hi, Beej50!

Wouldn't choice (d) Remove the engine, set it aside and get total access to the drive train as well as all its parts. Then put it back afterwards.

be simpler that trying to do things in all those tight unforgiving spaces?

Mark

HI Mate

Does the noise sound like a machine gun at around 3000 - 4000 revs a really matalic noise like bottom end noise??????

If this is the case it is a common problem on the D40 2.5 dci engine but nothing to worrie about.

Is it only sometimes or every time you drive the vehicle

Sam

Hi Cobber

The noise was, as you said, like a machine gun and happened every time you took your foot off the loud peddle! As it turned out, it was the timing chain guide that had destroyed itself. When the chain went slack, it just chewed away a bit more of the guide.

It was never going to get any better and it set your teeth on edge. I changed the engine as this was cheaper than repairing the old one!

Thanks for your input!

mate, what model is it, I have a d21 and had a similar prob with the sd25 motor sump hitting the driveshafts. I ended up just removing the bolts on the front diff (ifs) and nudging it sideways a bit, gave me just enough clearance to get it aligned without having to pull anything right out

hope it helped mate

Yes, Yes, YES!

I'm so pleased you got into this Snaketails. I have bitten the bullet and decided that I would do just that. The rad is long gone!!!!

I've just dropped the oil on the front axle and bought new stuff and just waiting for the new engine to rock up this 'arvo!

Thanks for confirming my thoughts!

Oh, if your into snakes, can you get back to me as my twenty year old son wants to breed them. He could perhaps do with any advice on that front that you could put forward.

Thanks again cobber, the spanners know which way to go now!

I hope that dropping the oil didn't make too much of a mess ;o(

No, snaketails is cause I like the SOLS cartoon Snake Tales (in its various forms)

Bugger! Didn't need to drop the oil!

Three bolts on the front diff and two each side of the front axle support and down she dropped! I think it has dropped about 180mm which is plenty to throw the lump back in. I just wish the new lump would rock up soon. I'm burning time here!

The reason I didn't spot this method is that the previous owner must have used the ute as a swamp basher. You can't see anything underneath for mud.

Thanks for all that!

"You can't see anything underneath for mud."

Errrmm...did it (it MUST have...) occur to you to splash a bit of water on to see if the mud won't go away? Might make the work easier, just a thought.

Normally YES!

Thing is that I've just packed up to leave this place and I have very very limited tools or anything. I rather stupidly thought (like on other vehicles) that I could just toss a new lump in (without dealing with anything that seemed to not matter)!

Hindsight is wonderfull isn't it!

I've worked on several cars in which the engine and transmission had to be removed as a unit -- there would be, for instance, a welded-in cross member in the location of your axle. The back of the transmission would be tilted way down and the engine would be pulled out at quite an angle.

Sounds like your plan to remove the axle is appropriate, assuming the engine and transmission cannot be pulled out together, tilted. Perhaps you could buy dinner for a mechanic at the dealership if he tells you the trick?

If all else fails, you could use a dry sump. Flatten the front part of the oilpan until there is just enough depth for oil to flow. Install an auxiliary oil tank whever it will fit. Add a second oil pump to circulate oil from the auxiliary tank to the original. This is fairly common on racing cars that want a large oil supply and low CG at the same time, but should work for your situation, too.

Have you priced what it costs to dry-sump a engine?

Yeh, sure, you do it in racing, but its expensive, especially here in Oz

You have 2 ways (or more I haven't looked at)

1/. scavange pump, where you pull the oil from the lowest point and fill a tank, the original oil pump sucks from there

2/. Scavange/delivery, where you do the same as above, but a seperate gear chamber is used to pull the oil from the tank and back into the oil galleries, replacing the original oil pump, these are generally belt driven from the crank shaft, similar to super-charging

Hi Snaketails

No, I'm not even going to go there!!! I have found that the front axle is less of a drama to shift than first expected. It all fits as it was supposed to now!

Main consideration here was always time. We move 450 k's North on Monday! No time for development with this one!

Thanks for the help and I tried to score you multiple times but only managed the one good answer! Well done!

An addition to dry-sumping/sump mods

Make >100% sure you remove all grind dust, sand (after sand blasting) and any other foreign material from your sump, then give the internals a good coating of paint inside.

The last thing you want to have, is this sharp grit slicing through your nice new oil filter, and modifying the bearing surfaces in your nice new Donk, even if its second hand, those bits will make it into a boat anchor.

Here is a piccy of mine (Toyota 4A-GE for Off Road Buggy)

The oil pickup was moved to the lowest point in the pan, the 4AG's have a Flywheel end pickup (RWD) and a Front Pickup version (FWD)

Hi Snaketails

Looks good but why did you put such a large drain plug hole in the bottom?

Seriously though cobber, we have got to hit the frog and toad on Monday. I just needed to throw in a different lump as quickly as possible! With a bit of help from Stueywright, she barked up mid day today at the first turn of the key.

Last time I changed an engine (outside of heavy earthmover stuff) was thirty years ago in an old Austin Maxi ! Out and in, in 2hrs 20mins! But then, the carby only had one fuel pipe. Since then, things have got complicated, there are twenty fuel pipes on this miserable ute!

Thanks again for the help!

Brian,

Can't tell you how much of a kick it gave me to be able to 'put a face' to the CR4 identity and turn up at your place and give a hand.

Nice to be able to meet you.

It was indeed a pleasure.

May you have the best of luck in the farming endeavour at Childers.

We'll visit with you from time to time if we may.

Cheers to you and yours,

Stu.

Can't thank you enough Stuey.

You are more than welcome, especially if your good with an MF 178.

The bad news is that the wifey just came out to rescue me from the side of the Ipswich Mty. The ute ran out of electricity. Would it have anything to do with that round thing with a pulley on it that I chucked in the skip ?

No, I did fit it and the red lights go out when running but I think the alternator is cactus !

I've got an alternator tester but can't be arsed to use it tonight !

If you want a cheap, quick alternator test, try this. Take a piece of steel that will fit behind the alternator. With the motor running, the rear bearing should become magnetic, and draw the piece of steel to it. But only if it is charging.

If it is not, recheck the connections you disturbed to do the engine swap. Good luck.

Thanks Mate! Good Check! My alternator tester is showing zip though. I have got a faulty ignition switch that may have something to do with it!

All non computer controlled alternators that i know of use one of two charging circuits.

One runs battery current through the ignition switch, then the voltage regulator, then to the field circuit. From the field to ground.

The other runs from battery, through ignition switch directly to field. From the field, through the regulator to ground.

Now if your ignition switch is not sending a signal to tell the charging system that the engine is running, it will not charge. Try moving the ignition key in tiny movements. If you find the lighting gets brighter, you have made temporary contact in the ignition switch, and know that the switch is junk. If that does not help, it may be a defective power feed to the switch. GM and Ford use duel feeds, and duel outputs for their ignition switches. Accessories on one feed, engine ignition on the other. You may have a fusible link that has let go.

If you are stuck on the road with this problem, you can try bypassing the regulator and monitor the time. Five min. on five min. off. If driving at night adjust the on off duty cycle as needed to keep lights from going too dim. This should only be done if you know what each wire on the alternator does, and if you are responsible enough to know your limitations. Good luck, and be very careful. Lucas was the god of darkness.

Bob,

That's an excellent in-the-field test.

Thanks. GA.

Stu.

It will never replace a DVM, but it does work when needed.

That large hole is for the oil pickup for the engine, the left end of the pic is where the pickup used to be, and the pan there was deeper, that part needed to be chopped down to fit the pan inside the cage, also the angle the engine is on (front to back) the large hole leads into the "box" where the oil now flows...

More pix to follow when I get it installed onto the engine, and the engine in the frame ;o)

pull the gear box and install engine tranny already mated

Not enough in the way of lifting capacity! I don't think the palm tree in the back yard will take the strain from a ratchet strap!!!!!

Told you I'd give you a hand. I've got 'gear'.

Stu.

Hey Stuey' Thanks so much for that.

I can't do very much at the moment as the new lump STILL hasn't turned up but should be here by this 'arvo!

I'm working in a garage that isn't too bad and am slinging the lump from the portal frame of the garage (it's only a rental and I hope the owner doesn't find out although there is minimal deflection).

I went out and bought a 3 tonne block and tackle (Chinese ) from Super Cheap as the ratchet strap idea got bloody dangerous in the lower mode!

Now I have cleared the way by dropping the front axle (but still keeping the wheels on as the hoist hasn't got a long travel) I seem to be good to go and if I need a bit of muscle, I've got my twenty year old young fella to help!

I've got enough spanners and sockets to keep me going but am missing my lathe to run up a centering tool although I think I can get it near enough.

I've just completed a major hydraulic job down your way on that $20m boat at scantuary cove and it only took 40 minutes to get there from here (Dinmore on the Ipswich Mty). Just come down the Logan and hang a left at the end. But really mate, I think I have got things covered. Much as I would love to have a jar with you, I just couldn't drag you out here for an old Ute! Well, not quite yet anyway!

I will be happy to keep you posted and will send you my mobile No to your post box!

Thanks again!

Just as long as the next reply isn't typed 1 handed, as the other is slightly squashed

Stuey:- your a star of the first order.

It's the first time (for me) that a CR4 contributor brought his spanners around and got stuck in.

New lump is now installed (but not tested yet cos I wimped out at midnight)!

It's a pity that Del the Cat didn't come around and join the party !

Many thanks to all who helped sort this one out including Del (really)!