Automotive Kill Switch?

Put a bypass switch on the line that sends power to the starter solenoid. If the starter solenoid cant be triggered the car cant start.

Or add a fuel shut off solenoid in line with the fuel line. Just turn off the fuel to the carburetor. Stealing a car that only gets a block or so before it quits is no fun either.

Being old enough to carbureted I rather doubt your car is worth enough to be worrying about it getting stolen though. Unless scrap prices drastically increase!

Better still, make a spare "rotor" that has an insulating section and swap it into place.

And the reason for expending all that effort is what, please?

The easiest way is to install a switch going to the starter relay/solenoid. The starter is typically supplied with both a constant power source and a switched power source wire which activates the relay/solenoid. You can install a remote switch in the second wire just described. This will cut power needed to activate the starter; that is , engage the starter drive and turn the engine over.

A second option is to install a master "kill switch" which will shut down all power from the battery. These can be installed remotely (hidden) and I understand some are made so that you can remove an insert from the switch and prevent it from being easily jumpered.

The easy way is to interrupt the 12v going from the key to the starter relay. Do you have the factroy schematic for the car?

Failing that, just get a trunk monkey....

http://www.trunkmonkey.com/content/view/44/1/

My Son bought a battery disconnect switch for his 65 Chevy van. You just turn it off and pull the key. The only drawback to this is you have to reset the radio unless you run a direct line to it from the battery. Other wise it works well and although it has been gotten into, it has never disappeared.

In your son's van there should be an 12 gauge red wire that leads from the alternator to the battery. If you attach another wire from the dead side of the battery switch to the heavy red wire coming out of the alternator, with a fuse of 30 amps in it, He will maintain all of his accessories, including the dome lights while the battery switch is off. But if starting is attempted, the 30 amp fuse will blow, and the system is totally dead.

Another way to accomplish the same thing would be to jump across the 2 battery switch terminals with the 30 amp fuse. Good luck .

Thanks for the tip bob. I will give that a look see.

In response to the guest posting below. You obviously have no Idea as to the value of collectable vehicles. Some of thes cars will sell in the hundreds of thousands of dollars when fully restored. This may not be one of those vehicles but its value is quite high as they are very rare now.

Hopefully it will look like this when its all said and done but even in its current condition (lots of body work to do) it worth about 10 grand.

That body style was sold with column shifted Saginaw four speed transmission.

I have recently inherited a Renault Fuego. What a stroke of luck.

Actually this one is a 3 speed but still has the column shift.

In the UK, public-road-going vehicles are registered at the Driver Vehicle Licencing Authority. So a vehicle cannot be "stolen" as such in the UK, as its registered keeper remains the same, despite any offence of deprivation of use, until the transaction details associated with any change of keeper are recorded at their office using the appropriate section of the registration form for the vehicle, which every keeper holds. Either an individual or a body corporate may own a vehicle, though the keeper has to be a named individual.

Unlawfully depriving the keeper of the use of it cannot be theft under UK law, as the keepership doesn't change despite the absence of the vehicle. In UK law it is "Taking Without Consent", and is affectionately abbreviated as TWOC, and made into a colloquial English verb, "twocking", "to twock", so as to save time in policespeak.

The original poster wanted the vehicle not to start when someone tries to twock it. Several posters have given solutions to this problem and there may be more options to follow, which is laudable.

Vehicles of lower market value are less attractive to twockers usually, though not entirely. The delightful vehicle pictured above has considerable visual appeal, and this might make it a significant target for criminal damage. However, its unique visual aspects make it less likely to be twocked as it is so distinctive and easily identified. Were it to be in the UK it would be worth covering it under a fully-comprehensive insurance policy for the claimed replacement value, for which a higher premium is payable, rather than the lower grades of third-party-fire-and-theft, or third-party-only.

As to whether it is actually worth any particular value were it to change hands is the simply the topic for the agreed opinions of both the buyer and the seller; a different matter entirely.

Its a 65 chevy van? I doubt that you could give it away.

There are several ways to do it. Easiest are to either need to cut off the electric to the starter solenoid or shut off the fuel. Shutting off the fuel would still leave enough in the carb to drive a block or two before stopping, but there are electric fuel line switches made for that purpose.

Finding the wire that goes from the key switch to the starter solenoid and putting another switch in the line would be very simple. One could even get elaborate and install a remote controlled switch so that without the remote controller the car would not start.

The neutral safety switch is basically the same.

Or use an old set of ignition points inline of the negative wire to the coil slip a piece of plastic or paper between when driving and remove when parked.

Starter kill is easy to bypass. Open hood run battery +ve to starter, done. Get a switch to cut fuel pump and ignition system.

If it take you 5 min to install a kill switch, it only take 2 min to bypass it.

Any kill switch is only as good as the hiding spot. That is why I prefer the fused wire to ground.

It has been noted that thieves want a quick lift. Thieves generally want to get in, get started and get going ASAP.

A determined thief as 'bobc' indicated will succeed but if you can remove the expedient opportunity thieves will often find an easier target unless your possession is in great demand.

Many variant methods avail the concept of deterrent and several could be combined and unobtrusive too. I like the type which are fairly simple to overcome but then this act enables other factors; thank you bob.

In times past one could:

depress the brake and push a plunger to lock the pressure in the brake lines

use a quick release racing type steering wheel

configure a sequence of items which need be switched on or off etc. for the ignition to activate

create an electro-locking device requiring a cell phone to disable before starting

use a remote starting device to disable the ignition system

secure parking maybe of greater cost effectiveness when dealing with a determined thief; hang it from a crane

Any number of things will normally discourage a thief unless they're camping out on your "6".

I had a friend that had made up a custom switch panel for his Falcon. There was 6-8 toggle switches. First he used a wire from the tach lead to the first switch as a cut out. Then he realised how easy it was to find the switch. After that he used 4 of the switches wired in series to activate the cutout. Some up, some down. If the sequence was wrong the car would not start.The switches were all in plain sight, but the correct sequence was needed.

I do like the removable steering wheel design, although carrying a steering wheel with you while going to a movie might be a little awkward.

I had a personal favorite car that was not driven for a few months while I was on active duty. I had a chain through the frame, 4 wheels and around the tree.

Will this work for you?

http://www.killswitchcentral.com/

If not, maybe a search engine can help: "automotive kill switch" or some variant including "carburator"

Hmm, $2 switch connected to $1 of wire for $17, bargain.

The starter motor is not a good place to disable. It has battery power permanently and a terminal that needs battery power to crank the engine so any piece of wire will do to bypass the switch. It's also clear what is wrong (no cranking), and not noisy until the problem is solved.

Ignition coil is an obvious point but often easy to get at too. You could short the contacts or break the path between the coil and contacts, but again unless it looks like standard wiring fairly easy to bypass. If it's got an electric fuel pump then that is usally less accessible.

But why do you think a professional thief might target your car? Any immobiliser switch will fool a casual attempt. If it's carb it's old so no great value. Much more likely to get malicious damage eg: window broken for what you left on display. As they have imobilisers as standard, most cars in the UK are nicked using the owners keys after breaking into the house.

If you get a chance, look at comment #10.

After our Holden Rodeo was recovered I used a Centronics printer plug and socket to immobilise it so it would not be stolen again. I interrupted several circuits and installed a buzzer to operate if the plug was left in with the ignition in any position other than run. To prevent hot wiring attempts each live contact was surrounded by grounds to blow the fuses. I cast the back of the plugs with body filler so no one could reverse engineer it. The circuits interrupted were from seperate locations and some decoy wiring was run so that attempting to nut it out would take a skilled person a long time and the use of instruments. I made up enough plugs for each key set and attached then with a short chain. The system was reliable and went with the vehicle when sold 10 years later.

Hope that helps.