2004 Chrysler Concorde XL Won't Shift Out of First Gear

I have the same vehicle but mine is the limited model. What mine is doing sounds like limp mode like you are talking about. I have read it with my standard shop scanner and it is giving me zero codes. What is happening is that I can be driving along just fine, through the city and even on the highway - then the issue can arise out of nowhere. On deceleration, the car pops into what feels like first or second gear and the shift indicator display shows every single gear engaged instead of drive. I can stil drive forward up to around 45mph without hurting it and still enter reverse. If I pull over and put the car in park and shut it off then turn it back on - the problem goes away. I had an emergency situation arise when on the highway where it did it to me as I was preparing to get over for an exit. It popped into that limp mode on me and I had a semi behind me that was going way too fast and nowhere to pull over, so I threw the car into neutral - shut it off then quickly refired - and it went back through the gears like normal. I have never heard of such nonsense and I'm at my wits end with it. Some days she drives normal, some days it does this to me whenever slowing down from speeds at 45 or higher. I have already changed the filter and fluid for good measure, even though the filter wasn't clogged and the fluid did not smell or look burnt or anything. The car only has 95k miles on it.

So the question is, where do I go from here? 3 different local transmission shops are telling me that the transmission needs to be replaced (even though none of them have had it in to scan it on high end computers) - to the tune of $2400 plus tax and fees, and I would hate to spend that kind of money if it is unnecessary.

A couple things here:

a. It needs to be scanned when it does it….not when you've cleared codes from restart. It's a soft code apparently so it will go away after a restart.

b. It's sounding to have a potential to be mechanical but it would be ideal to eliminate electrical issues first and for most as, even though it odd, you could be having a ground issue/short creating a disturbance and limp mode. When this happens I would assume you have a check engine or flashing trans light. If your not seeing a light flash when that happens thats pretty unusual. Even a broken snap ring, which also can create intermittent problems, you should be seeing a light.

So in probability, you can have either problem. The only way to start is with running a good diagnostic electronically but yes, it will have to be done when it happens, which may just point to a physical problem anyway.

Also a physical check on the filler stick may help with some indication for metal but not very accurate to determine anything and better, to pull the pan to look for fragments. But I would do that only after getting a good electronic diagnosis.

Hope that helps.

I hate being the first responder, but here goes. The noise from your front wheel may be a stuck brake. If it is real stuck, it could load down the car so it can't get out of first gear because of the load. You would feel the car want to go to the right, too, and it would stop real quick without you having to touch the brakes. It would get hot and smelly,too.

Does reverse work? Does your gear selector feel different from before? Do you have it in 'L'?

I have the same problem with the same car, and the shifter feels as if it is in a safe mode, feels fine in reverse to neutral and to a forward gear either 1st or 2nd but will not shift into drive only reaching about 30-35 mph. 1st,2nd,and drive all feel like the same gear on the shifter.Feels as if it is in what has been explained online as limp mode. The motor has 120,000 miles. Also the gear lights on the dash do not acknowledge what gear it is in, supposed to be a square around the operating gear I believe and no light illuminating the shifter to tell you what gear it is in either? I don't believe it is a mechanical problem but also don't know the proper steps to trouble shoot the problem myself. I would appreciate any help thanks

I had a similar problem with my BMW 7 Series. It was stuck in limp mode because--get this--the battery was on its last legs. It would start the car OK, but I could tell the battery was getting weak. Replacing the battery fixed the transmission problem. Go figure.

Hey, they are both German cars--well, the Concorde is sort of a German car--so maybe that's your problem, too. A 2004 is 5 years old, about the life of a battery.

You may have a stuck or broken road speed governor. Have a competent mechanic check this out and maybe save yourself a hefty bill.

Had the same problem with an eariler Concord. Car needs a deep scan to get to the transmission computer. Not Autozone. My problem was an N1 sensor located on the side of the transmission. Cost $75.00 for the sensor including install. Most good shops will give the scan if you buy the part and have it installed. Squeak could be bearing or half shaft. Disconnecting the battery only clears the fault, problem will return after about 5 to 15 key turns.

Same problem here except it only does it after running for 30-40 minutes (warmed up nicely) and if I pull over and turn the car off for 10-15 seconds, I am fine until I slow down to 25-30 mph and then it locks into 2nd gear until I shut if off again. Three places have told me the Solenoid pack $700 installed but I am not convinced for some reason since it only does it when it warms up. I had a fluid service performed last year and that cured it for about 3 months. Any other suggestions would be helpful and greatly appreciated. thank you all!

The $700 figure sounds familiar...the Chrysler Service advisor threw that faigure out at me as if I were needing brain surgery. Have been investigating for a few days, and still think a cure should be quick and not lengthy because this thing did not lead up to the problem...click, there was the engine light, and the car performing as if still in 2nd gear.

I don't know if you ever fixed your car; I have exactly what you described here, just like if we had the same car. mine is a concorde 2004 as well.

Gear get stocked at 2nd when downshifting around 25 MPH. I will turn it of for couple of second and back on, then I'm fine until I slow down again.

If you get a fix, I will avoid 10 diagnostics from 10 mechanics. SO frustrating.

Thanks in advance!

It's spooky but I have a 2022 Chrysler Concorde at 70K miles and the check engine light decided to come on. Also, if I'm driving at normal speed then slow down for a stop sign/red light, my car will "jerk" then remain in that gear the duration of my drive, all the while making a whining sound. If I cut the engine and park, it MAY return immediately but if I park it and try it again the next day...problem is not there. My mechanic first recommended a transmission flush, which i got for about $165 (NO DEXTRON) and now he is screaming $700.00 for a solenoid pack replacement. How can I tell for certain? Is $700 a rasonable price although a solenoid pack seems to run from $160-$220 online. Please help.... Signed,Stuck in 2nd (or is it third?)

I once had a problem with a 1995 Intrepid, the car all of a sudden shifted down to second gear. I had 2nd and reverse. Turned out to be a loose connector pin, It did happen twice within a month the second mechanic was able to fix it well. Only took an hour to repair the loose wire connection.

My chrysler voyager had a similar problem, there was a fault with the throttle sensor and the car would not shift out of first until the sensor had been replaced

I used to have Plymouth Voyager that locked up on second gear. The problem is that the transmission needs some adjustment (you can probably find it in your manual); before it is too late, you better bring your car to the mechanic even if it starts shifting gears, otherwise you will burn someday your transmission. I did, and do not want you have the same problem. Good luck!

Thank you all for your helpful hints. I had the car towed to the mechanic this morning and he thought that it was a modulator but he doesn't work on them so I have to get it towed to the next big town about 30 miles away to get an expert to look at it. I will keep you posted as to what happens. You all have been great!

these transmissions are known for input speed sensor failures, find someone with a scan tool to monitor the sensors input to the trans controller or you can manually check it with an ohm meter about 20 ohms i think, they usually go open circuit and without speed input it wont electrically shift the trans, also check the output speed sensor or vehicle speed sensor whitchever yours uses, hope this helps. the input sensor should be on the drivers side of the trans just behind the bell housing.

I also have an 04 Chrysler Concorde with the same problem. Slowing down to 25 mph the car clunks and is stuck in gear. I have to pull over and restart the car and it runs fine until I go over 45 mph, then the problem starts again when I slow down to 25 mph..."clunk". I brought it to a transmission specialist and did the 25 mph maneuver on purpose, left the car running and had them run a scan. It said there was a problem with a clutch sensor. I restarted the car and there was no problem detected. The mechanic said this is because the cars computer reset whatever the problem was. He gave me an estimate of $90 to $2000, depending if it is a sensor, the clutch or if the transmission is coming apart inside and I would need a rebuild. Well, I am a new grad and broke! So I started experimenting with it. If I put the car in neutral at 30 mph and cost down to just under 15 mph, I can engage the tranny with no problems usually. I have to do this every time I slow down from speed over 45 mph. I have noticed that this does not work after the car has been driven over 40 miles or when it is hot outside. What I have also noticed when I do this neutral trick is that the tachometer goes nuts! It bounces from almost 500 rpm to 1500 rpm back and forth and this is when it will NOT engage normally and clunks into gear and is stuck again. I googled these problems and did find a site that said the alternator and battery do affect automatic transmissions. And seeing what the rpm's are doing when all this is going on makes me think the input sensor could definitely be "confused" too. There is no burnt smells and I had it flushed and new fluids done when this first happened...which was 8 months ago! I'm still limping her along as she has to last at least 6 more months. I know a trusted mechanic who would be willing to try some basic things first ie...alternator, input sensor, serpentine belt etc. I will let you know what happens...if any of you have figured this out for sure let me know. I'm having a hard time believing it is a broken transmission. Seems more electrical or sensor related. Thanks.

Dear hellifiknow:

I KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM IS!!!! It cost me about $420 but the original cutthroat wanted to charge me $700 for my ignorance. You need to have the solenoid pack replaced!!!! It's more labor than parts and it fixes the whole "slow-to-25mph-shift-into-2nd-gear-until-i-turn-the-car-off. OR the equally frustrating, click past 45mph after the engine is warm whinining.

I have the 2002 Chrylser Concorde at 70K miles and I am now 3 weeks into the repairs and it purrs like a kitten.

Hope this helps......No longer stuck in 2nd

Thanks! I will let the mechanic know!

Just want to confirm this. My Concorde 2004 was doing the same thing. The mechanic told me that there was a recall for these cars because of the faulty solenoid pack; After diagnostic, he said that the faulty solenoid pack had also damaged the Sonnax valve body; he asked for $680 $205 for the solenoid pack and $224 for labor $85 for the sonnax valve and $115 for labor. I don't know much about cars, I paid the $680; The car was 1 day at it's shop, and I've been driving it for the pass 10 days? The issue is gone; I'm crossing my finger; hope it helps

The problem seems to be one of a reluctance to take it to a vehicle dismantler's premises, and "weigh it in".