Hot Water Heater Furnace

Quite bit more information please.

What form of radiant heating is in use, in-floor, baseboard or radiators?

What type boiler is it make, mode,l serial# etc..

Usually, in hot water systems, the radiators/base boards have a little valve at the top to allow you to vent any accumulated air. You will probably have to go around and vent them a number of times before most of the air bubbles comes out of solution. There are some additives that can be put into the system that prevent rust and decrease surface tension to help the air bubbles come out of solution. Any good hardware store should have it.

Yep starting at the lowest in the system bleed the air at each point about once a week until the water becomes dead (no air) no additives required.

I'm sorry - why would hot water need to be heated in the first place :)

I once pulled a vacuum on my auto's power steering system to remove the air from the system.

What if a vacuum could be pulled on the system at the head of the boiler?

Really!

My Ford shop manual specified pulling a vacuum on the power steering pump to remove air from the fluid - a remedy to a noisy system. It worked.

Where did you attach the hose?

This would have to have been designed by the same idiot who chose to make the cruise control brake shut off valve on the master cylinder hot all the time regardless of key position. This encourages self destruction in humid climates.

^{_{I drive a Ford too, and love it.}}

There is a small vent hole in the PS pump cap. I expanded and threaded this vent hole and installed a barbed fitting, 1/8 NPT.

I DO NOT WANT TO INSTALL ANY VENT CAPS. ON THE FURNANCE THERE ARE TWO EXTENDED PIPES WITH FAUCETS AT THE ENDS TO RELEASE WATER. I'VE SEEN HOSE ATTACHED, FAUCET TURNED ON / WITH THE WATER VALUE TURNED ON TO ADD WATER TO THE BOILER AS THE AIR IN DRAINED WATER LEAVES THE SYSTEM. THE VALUE CAPS ARE NOLONGER AVAILABLE. THIS UNIT IS OVER 30 YEARS OLD WITH ADDITION VENTS ADDED TO THE FLOOR...CAPS MISSING. SO THE AIR WAS ALWAYS DRAIN THROUGH THE WATER USING THE HOSE. WHICH PIPE WITH FAUCET DO I USE. LOOKS LIKE ONE IS FOR (MAIN FLOOR) ONE FOR (UPPER FLOOR). THIS WILL BE MY LAST ATTEMPT, THEN THE PLUMBER

I am not quite sure of your set up. The best way to vent a boiler loop is to bleed the air out of the highest point in the system while adding water to replace it. then work your way down to any point to just above the boiler.

A word of caution. 30+ year old valves may open but when closed they may leak. A boiler system must be leak free or you will get water damage and or air into the system.

Post #1 is a request for specific information of the boiler which may provide us an indication of the systems pertinent values.

Without the requested specific answers we can only reply with generalizations and your lack of understanding or familiarity of boiler systems prevents any substantive assistance.

CALL THE PLUMBER

"Only in the USA do you see drive-up ATM's with Braille characters by the buttons!"

I suppose some people have to drive - after-all, they maybe too blind to walk!

Venting each radiator multiple times is the way to go. The big question I have is why is there air to begin with? Was the system recently opened for service? Or do you have a leak.

Any loss of water should be corrected by the water make up system. This is a line from your potable water that has a backflow preventer and a pressure regulator feeding the boiler loop. The static pressure of the system should be in the 13-15 PSI range. I would also check your pressure relief safety valve. They are prone to leaking or blowing of as they get older.

1. Tip a bottle of "Fernox" (usual disclaimer) into the expansion tank (make absolutely certain it is the heating header tank and not the main water tank first!).
2. Bleed the radiators using the small key-operated valve near the top of each of them.
3. Repeat 2 at weekly intervals until no more gas is to be released.
4. If 1-3 do not cure the problem, then it may be necessary to install automatic vent valves at the high points in the system. Wait until late Spring to do this, as it will entail a partial or a total drain-down of the system. Once completed, repeat 1-3.