Adapting a Wood Splitter to Run off a Small Engine

Greetings - this thing is one of the most potentially damaging things I have seen in awhile....I have used many variations, most w/PTO's and the splitter is welded to the drive shaft - but always with breaker-bars to catch the wood's centrifugal force - you have nothing to do this here.....and believe me, with the right torque and insufficient length of the wood, your going to get knocked-out, or at the least possibly tear up your vehicle....

Not to mention that gear ratios on an axle are all different for makes/models, so you got to do a lot of experimenting....lord help 'ya on some good 'ol hickory wood

I realize this is not helping, but to adapt it to a small engine is going to take some frame-building first, and then the direct-drive gear housing....belts won't cut it

good luck!

A friend of mine has one of them Sticklers... he lives out in the country and has a wheeled tractor. His Stickler is powered by the tractor. I helped him to split wood several time and I am NOT IMPRESSED. I'd go for the traditional hydraulic ram splitter any time. But back to your question. U-tube has lots of movies on them stickler splitters... look at them. Also you are not the only with such a splitter. Move around, look what others do, get ideas. It looks to me, though, that to design and build a power drive for this thing, with a sturdy frame, power transmission and whatever else, may cost you considerably more than a regular motorized hydraulic splitter.

I have had good success with it, and (at least most of the time, depends on what you are splitting) it is faster than a hydraulic ram. Based on what I have seen, getting a small engine is not terribly costly, and I could get a frame welded up rather inexpensively.

Small engines come in designs with built on PTO gearboxes as standard equipment. They have a 600 RPM output instead of the typical 3600. One of those would make the additional speed reduction with a simple chain drive system far easier.

However I too am not so fond of a hight torque screw device for splitting wood. It has no real safety system and people eventually get careless and or stupid at one point or another. 5 HP at a few hundred RPM is still far more torque than any human can hold back at a few inches of distance.

I have built several hydraulic ram type splitters over the years and if you understand the basic math and mechanics its rather easy to build one and most parts are cheap if you don't mind doing a bit of farm and industrial auction searching. Hydraulic cylinders, valves, hoses, pumps, and heavy steel are all common items at those types of auctions around here.

Get a basic but good quality welder and some form of basic metal cutting and grinding equipment and its a very realistic DIY project!

Not to burst your bubble, but you would have been much better off building a conventional hydraulic splitter. After reviewing that thing you bought, I can see nothing but trouble even if you power it from your pick up never mind an alternative source....

Why not back up and just look to somewhere like Northern Tool or the like for something that definitely works without the risks of this new and improved mouse trap flinging a log around the wheel well of your car or truck...

I do appreciate that all of you are concerned. Don't take this the wrong way, but I didn't request safety evaluations. I have used the thing and I am fully aware that it has potential to hurt someone. Again, please spare me the safety comments. If you don't think it is a good idea, then don't comment and keep your helpful information. :)

Since posting this I have done some further research and I think you may be mistaken about the costs. I got the tool at a greatly reduced price. I can have the frame built for free or at worst, very cheaply. (<$50)

A fairly large, vertical engine can be obtained for $100 or less.

I have not fully researched the gears, but from what I saw I think they will be $100 total or less.

I have no intention of going in to production with this thing and it doesn't need to sparkle. It rips apart logs, not impresses with looks. I am not going to go down to northern and get a $400 honda motor off the shelf.

So, at the moment, I am estimating the total investment to be under $400. Whether you think it is safe or not, it works quite well and rips through the nastiest logs easily. Plus, it will be somewhat portable and I can bring my trailer too. Can't bring a trailer and a splitter (unless its a landscaping trailer, which mine is not).

So if you have any helpful suggestions regarding design, etc., that would be fantastic.

By the way, I am not opposed to safety. I think this particular setup could be made significantly safer by adding 2 safety bars just above the splitter portion on either side and attaching them with a crossbar. This would effectively keep the log from spinning at all, catching it between the ground and the safety bars. The crossbar would hinder any human contact with the tip. Any thoughts?

I've got a drop saw, a chainsaw, an angle grinder, a lathe, a router and a circular saw - all of them are pretty much as unsafe as the stickler in my opinion (particularly the chainsaw - if you're going to wield a nasty great chain of razors cutting your logs, the Stickler is the least of your worries)... plus I'm halfway through splitting 10 tonnes of Australian hardwood and I think the chopping is worse on my back than any risks from this thing...

Let me know if you find the right combination of motor / gears... I'd set one up in a flash.

I'm not sure I wouldn't put it vertically so you can drop the logs into a cage from above with some kind of ratchet bar to stop the logs spinning, possibly with the cage doors hinged from the top so logs can drop out, but things can't get in.

The motor from a post hole digger might be a good bet if you can find one - heaps of torque, probably already geared for the right rpm and perhaps an easy weld / bolt to the existing coupling.

In that case you would probably have to run it with the Stickler pointing down, so you'd be building something like a big drill press - put the logs in at the bottom, close the gate and drop the stickler on 'em.

Good luck...

I will post a parts list when I get it together of what i end up using.

I considered that as well - having it point upwards. The only thing is that I don't want to have to pick the logs up. But I thought similarly that you could build a cage around it, even just 4 vertially running bars to keep things from moving.

Good idea about the post hole digger, though I think those may spin even slower than I need...I need 400 RPM or so. I will look around though...I could stick some miter gears on that thing too.

Bluntly, but clearly THIS THING IS A WIDOW MAKER! Using this thing is like playing russian roulette. Your cost estimates are extremely low and a vertical engine shaft won't hack it, it needs a horizontal shaft as the movie clip indicates. How would you hold the log with the vertical shaft? In the movie clip the ground is providing the reverse torque.

Before messing around with this thing, make sure your life insurance is paid up, the family is going to need it without you!

The reason I was leaning towards a vertical shaft is because a larger engine, i.e., a riding lawnmower engine, is fairly easy to obtain. Generally, horizontal shaft, and smaller ones at that are more costly. I would use some miter gears to change the direction of the vertical shaft, then gear it down.

tpiecora

If you feel comfortable being able to safely contain the action created by this device then I would next be concerned with the stresses on the proposed equipment. If you cannot locate a transmission that will slow the engine down enough I would look for a small hydraulic pump and motor. Then any engine orientation would work and optimum speed would be easy to obtain and a relief valve setting would protect the machinery and offer some additional safety to the operator. If you got a reversing control you would have an option if you ran into something you couldn't split. A thought for the framework might be a frame that tows like a trailer and then stands upright to place the splitter on stable legs at a good height for loading.

Good luck and be carefull

Would this increase the torque? Please provide some more detail.

I was intending to build the frame out of Sch. 40 steel pipe (maybe 1-1/2" to 2")

Secondly, I was going to weld a trailer hitch to it. I have a class V hitch on my truck (2-1/2" receiver). That way I could set it on the ground and slide it in the receiver. I was thinking of also putting some rings on the corners to drive spikes into the ground to give it greater stability and additional leverage points, relieving some stress from the hitch.

Some small engines come fitted with reduction gearboxes that are flange mounted to the engine and are designed for the torque produced. adjusting engine rpm will adjust red box shaft output rpm as high as 600rpm

The engine mounting Frame should have a wide base to ensure stability when loaded. rig up a pressure safety switch on an extension lead to the engine ignition so that should your foot pressure on the switch be eased off the engine ign is earthed and shuts down. Use a horizontal crank shaft type engine so no angle drive or extra gearbox is requiered, unless you want to change direction of rotation.Try the following Engine Model options or available equivalents from your local dealer (www.briggsandstratton.com)

Cheaper version approx 3hp = 097352-0049 includes 6:1 red gearbox CCW shaft rotation (3/4" keyed shaft)

Longer life version approx 6hp = 122052-0549 includes 6:1 gearbox CCW rotation (3/4" keyed shaft)

Longer life version approx 8hp = 205352-0549 includes 6:1 gearbox CCW rotation (1" keyed shaft)

Great idea about the foot pedal safety. Thanks.

I had one of these. I sold it in a nieghbors garage sale and bought a hydraulic cylinder type with a gas engine on Craigs List for about $200. In hindsight, it was a good decision.

Just a couple of things.

First: If this is mounted to the drive wheel on a car or truck, how do you decide who drives and who runs along side throwing logs at it?

Second: The post hole drill is a good idea. I started on a shelter house last fall and needed to rent a post drill. I ended up using a towable "one man" type. I never saw one before but it was friggin awesome. Basically a teeter totter on wheels. The engine and hydraulic pump are on one end and the power head with the auger is on the other. The forward reverse controls are on the handle. Should be simple enough to stretch the drive line out to what ever is comfortable to operate based on the average length of log you intend to split.

Third: Make a quick clamp to hold the log vertical. A simple vee or wedge with teeth cut into it facing against the drive rotation should give you some help with holding the log. I am thinking of something like the kick back safety on a table saw. Only this would be horizontal to engage into the sides of the log. Or maybe a single point such as that on a log roller or timber jack.

Out of curiosity, what prompted your decision to purchase this type? Simplicity? Cost?

As other posts, I would very heavily lean to more of a conventional hydraulic type of wood splitter. Do not know what your experience level is. You need to ask your self how much wood do you split.

IMO, and it may be biased, I never cared for them because of a question of safety.

Of course there is a risk on other types as well, just throwing this out.

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=hp&q=PTO+Accidents&aq=f&aqi=g2g-m1&oq=&fp=baa94940edcea411

http://nasdonline.org/document/1128/d000917/tractor-and-pto-accidents-and-rescues.html

http://nasdonline.org/static_content/documents/1128/d000917.pdf (Sorry! Link no longer available.)

http://www.hicahs.colostate.edu/Documents/Factsheets/PTO.pdf (Sorry! Link no longer available.)

Stay safe and Good luck,

p911

In contrast to the comment that "belts wont cut it" I would suggest belt on the basis that they effectivly produce a safety clutch should this thing jam into a knot or a hidden nail or whatever.

I saw one of these 35 years ago in the UK and it looked scary then but I have to admit it certainly worked well.

I would suggest belt on the basis that they effectivly produce a safety clutch should this thing jam into a knot or a hidden nail or whatever..

If you haven't ever split wood before, one goes out to split wood, not to be pooching the afternoon away.......but those screw type splitters are dangerous.

p911

Not the point P911. Everyone is suggesting some form of restraint for the log and if you get jam something has to give. There is no point in making the restraint the weak link in the system, it's there to protect the operator. So,what would you rather change, a belt or a gear?

Make the gear stronger?.. Crankshafts are even more trouble. My point was just to add a fail-safe function.

Regards Chas

true.......and the op can realize a mistake was made in the original purchase.

Having used the tool quite a bit, I would not say it was a mistake. It is very efficient, easy to use, and gets the job done. Having become more familiar with the operation of it and the mechanics involved, the only hazard is simply user negligence. If you use it carefully, and the way it is supposed to be, there is no danger. So, even if an accident occurred, it would not be the tool's fault, but the user's. Does this mean such a tool should not be used? No, of course not. If that reasoning were valid, then no tool could be used.

It functions, but back in the 70's I heard of accidents where a piece of clothing got caught up in it, mutilating the operator. Since then, I am very bias against it.

Just curious if the OP is still active on here. Did this ever become a project? Did it ever get completed?

I have a stickler also and think it is a great splitter. I believe it is less dangerous than the chain saw used to cut the tree you are splitting logs from.

I was also thinking of eliminating the vehicle from the equation by using a small engine to power the screw. My google search for someone who may have done it already lead me here.

My idea was to use a rear axle from a truck. The axle could be mounted to the bed of a trailer.

My first thought was to simply rig the brake on the unused side of the axle so the open differential would send the power to the screw the same way it would if the screw were mounted on a vehicle as intended.

After thinking about it a little further I thought maybe it would be a good idea to remove the axle tube from the unused side of the axle to conserve space on the trailer bed. This would require figuring out a way to stop the unused side of the differential from spinning of course.

Then after thinking a few seconds more I started thinking about a way to incorporate both brakes into a safety feature. If the unused side brake were set for normal splitting and a flip of a lever could set the brake on the screw side and open the brake on the open side it would essentially stop the screw allowing the open side to spin freely. Or better yet the lever flip would not only stop the screw but stop the engine as well.

I was thinking the engine could turn the pinion side of the axle. This would give an option for additional gear reduction if needed or maybe provide an additional safety link to disconnect the screw from the power.

What do you think?

If you're up for that level of mechanical work you'd be better off belt or chain driving it. 2nd hand harley pullies? or chains from any other bike.

in fact why not use a 2nd hand motorbike engine in its entirety? that way you're 3/4 the way there.

regards

Chas