Heater Makes My Fluorescent Light Dim!

There are solid-state heater controllers (1-phase or 3-phase) that work analogously to soft motor starters. They can "ramp up" the heater to minimize inrush current. This will help to stabilize your fluorescent lights, and may also enable some control options such as PID loops or fuzzy logic.

hi, thanks for the reply..

is it something like this?

http://www.ia.omron.com/product/66.html

G3PE-245B(L) will do the job? how to replace it with my current circuit?

my current circuit is just a contactor to drive the heater.

The resistance of heaters and incandescent filaments is (somewhat) proportional to their temperature. When such elements are cool, they have less resistance than after they heat up. Because of this, they (like motors) have inrush currents that are higher than the normal operating current. Motor inrush is typically about 6-8 x running current; incandescent lighting about 12 x; heaters maybe something like 2-4 x (depending on the difference between cold and hot temperature). It is this inrush current that causes the voltage drop, which in turn dims your fluorescent lights.

One or two of the Omron choices in your link seemed to have a suitable ampacity, but I couldn't tell if they had the "ramp-up" or "soft start" feature that would help in your situation. This is on the right track, though. Another manufacturer of solid-state heat controllers is Emerson/Chromalox. Your cable might be 32 mm², but it would not be 32 mm. Your 80-amp reading (and 19.2 kW) are realistic for a process heater. (It looked as though your heater is single phase, but if it is 3-phase, it would be 19.2 x √3 ≈ 33.3 kW.)

I dont wish to upset you but i have to ask.

did you put clamp meter over all wires going to heater or just one?

also on back of machine on the label what is the rating in watts please.

if its a fan heater at 80 amps /240v that equals 19200 watts

that 240 X 80 = 19200 Watts

Kettle 240X 12amps =2880 watts and confirmed using inline power meter.

Now either you have one enormous heater or your readings are wrong.

reason i asked about clamp meter, You must only measure one wire either the live or neutral but not both.

I have to mention that because the readings are so high regarding amps

He's got a 1¼" cable going to the heater: it probably is 20 KW

Ah that would explain it, Thanks.

Just noticed are you sure you have thermostat set to 400 c?

or should that read 40 c

Sorry about this brains not working at this time of morning.

turn heater on turn thermostat fully up remove plug from wall set multi meter to ohms

and tell me what you get across the live and neutral please.

May I suggest that you supply the two units seperately from your fusebox, that will reduce the effect considerably - assuming that all wiring is correctly in spec and also correctly installed.

Clamp Meter clamp at incoming Life Wire only. confirm 80amp (some time max 85amp). so that i got pair of life and neutral 32mm cabling to that machine.

let me explain more details on my circuit.

1. Incoming from ESP (electric supply provider) Single phase 240Vac 50/60hz 100amp fuse.

2. 32mm cable after fuse and go into main board. (approximately 20ft from main fuse)

3. 32mm -> main board 100amp fuse -> 100amp ELCB -> 3 x 30amp MCB, 1 x 6amp MCB (for lighting... there is only 2 40watt fluorescent light added 6uF 240Vac cap)

4. 3 x 30amp MCB - > 3phase contactor -> 3 heater. (3 of it are in the same machine and heat up togather)

achievement : to stop the lighting flickering (fluctuating) in my area and neighbors... becos impossible i install all the cap for their lightning...

*sorry for my poor english...