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Steel Bollards

09/17/2010 12:12 AM

I have just installed some bollards for a business owner and we got talking. I put 8 inch, 1/4 inch HSS 3 feet into the ground. The hole was 14 inch dia and I used the ready mix cement from Totem. I filled the Bollard to the top with the same cement as well. Now here is the question? What will give first ? the steel pole or the concrete if a truck were to run into it. I'm betting the concrete will pull out of the ground first. The ground was sand and clay, very hard packed. How far down would I have had to place the pole before it would have to give at the top first. There is 3 . 5 feet above ground.

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#1

Re: Steel Bollards

09/17/2010 12:30 AM

Who/what/when/where/why?

Local codes and your insurance carrier will all want a piece of you.

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#3
In reply to #1

Re: Steel Bollards

09/17/2010 12:39 AM

Hey, I was only doing as requested by the owner of the building. Thanks, now I'll be half a day at city hall and the other half on the phone with my insurance carrier.

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#4
In reply to #3

Re: Steel Bollards

09/17/2010 12:49 AM

You forgot to include the cost of the permits in your bid, didn't you?

And, somebody's going to have to haul the post and concrete blob away.

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#5
In reply to #4

Re: Steel Bollards

09/17/2010 12:59 AM

Things must work a little different out here in the west, All I have to do is line locates. No permits are needed for fences, gates or bollards on private property as long as drilling does not go deeper than 2 meters or 6.5 ft.

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#2

Re: Steel Bollards

09/17/2010 12:36 AM

When an irresistible force meets an immovable object, all hell breaks loose something's gotta give. (Can a god make a stone so big (s)he can't then lift it?)

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#6

Re: Steel Bollards

09/17/2010 3:40 AM

A renownd scientist had said "Give me a long lever and I will moove the Earth".

I your case the length of bollard above ground is almost the same as below ground while the deficiency is well taken care of by grout and compact soil sorround.

Since cement fill to the bollard top has no steel reinforcement the impact of a collosuion will render it unreliable unless you weld a steel plate at the top.

Conversly speaking you have to reduce the length below ground for the bollard to uproot.

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#7

Re: Steel Bollards

09/17/2010 8:35 AM

The answer and the mode of failure depend on whether the bollard is struck high or low and we would need to know something about how much water you used to mix the concrete and how well you cured it.

But!

Please, please, stop calling concrete "cement", it drives people like me crazy, we don't know if you mean mortar, grout or concrete. Cement is one ingredient of all of them. Did the ready mix say it was cement or concrete?

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#9

Re: Steel Bollards

09/17/2010 11:46 PM

This bollard, with its cement has no tensile support to the ground, just compressive strength. So a hit by a truck will shift them, repeated hits will loosen them. A rubber bumper will reduce the peak loads at impact, so after the fact, I suggest those. Scrap tires cable on do well at this

One way to deal with this when you place is the place 4 rebars, 5/8" or greater about 6 feet into the earth. Depending on the ground, these can be driven, but you may have to drill a hole for them, then grout them in with cement(no stones) and shape them to the steel pipe goes over them and they are 6 inches below the cap and spaced evenly and at least 3 inches from any surface. Use epoxy coated rebar and coat the cut ends at the top. Rust is the enemy here. Rust from water penetration of the concrete takes up more space than the steel that rusted. This breaks the concrete at the tope. There will not be any side penetration. As you pour the cement make sure you use a rotary wiggler to make sure there are no voids. shape the concrete cap in a rounded way without too much puddling so it is not weakened.

Keep damp for a week. Add the bumpers.

Should last a long time.

http://www.gametrailers.com/user-movie/animal-crackers/115183

http://www.google.ca/#hl=en&safe=off&q=bollard%20%2Bconstruction&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=vw&fp=1e36e1e592e21b7e

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#10

Re: Steel Bollards

09/18/2010 10:10 AM

Good morning Wood I.

What is the minimum depth required by your city/county to avoid freezing uplift?

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#11
In reply to #10

Re: Steel Bollards

09/19/2010 4:54 PM

The Alberta Building Code does not specify minimum depth of piles exposed to freezing conditions, but the prevalent practice is to carry them down to three times depth of frost penetration. In an open area that could be 5' (some say 6'), so pile depth by rule of thumb should be 15' to 18'.

I don't think anyone constructs bollards that deep, however. If they lift up a bit, it probably won't be too critical.

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#12

Re: Steel Bollards

09/20/2010 8:07 AM

I regularly have to but bollards in for storage tank installations. We are required to put in 12 inch steel pipes with 3 feet in the ground 4 feet above ground filled with concrete. As an added piece of protection we also put a 4' x 4' by 2 ft pad around each bollard. I've had a couple hit by our mining equipment 60-100 ton Euclid and it's usually the pipe the bends first then its riped out.

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