As per above diagram it should do like as given diagram because internal winding tape out are adjusted in sch a way that winding can bear the higher load (ampere) also so not a problem to connect at low voltage but before doing please ensure a winding diagram that is better
I am afraid, it is not correct. L1 goes to T1. (T3, T8 & T2 should be linked together & left floating) T4 & T5 should be linked together, and both connected to L2.
The way he has it looks good to me ... as long as your 220v wires are connected to different buses in your service panel, one leg will always be positive and one negative.
Note on plate, that T1 says line not L1 or L2. Don't be afraid. I'll turn a light on for you ... now is that L1 or L2 that I hook up to the light bulb.
This doesn't appear that complicated. Most Dayton motors that I have replaced had wires in the connection housing labeled with the "T" numbers. The 220 volt cord will have two hots and a ground (green). The hot lines are attached so that one goes to wires T1 and one to T4 and T5. The ground is attached to the motor itself. There is usually a screw for this purpose. Attach as the ground from the 125 volt set-up. I would use wire locks for tying connecting the wires together. It makes a better connection than twisting and taping. Some motors have spade connectors, but they should be clearly indentified and use jumper wires to tie ones together, but since the label asks you to tap three together, it seems there are a bunch of wires to deal with.
If the motor runs in the wrong direction, just do what the label says.
It's always worked for me.
If this procedure seem a little too simple, don't feel bad, but it really is. If you have never done this before, it can be a little scary especially if you have felt the jolt of a 60 cycle buzz. I remember the first time I had ever done this I was afraid to plug in the motor. Just double check your connections and be brave.
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