Anti-Seize for Stainless Steel Hardware

I don't have a proof positive answer. The power plant I worked for swore by nickel based for everything, indoor, outdoor, boiler hot, freezing cold and other than it being extremely viscous in cold weather we had no issues.

That being said... this sounds like a simple experiment would be fun and provide you an answer. Just set up mock-ups with each of the options and see which one wins! I'd be interested to know the results.

I see a lot of positive statements about nickel as I search the internet. My problem is that I can't find a nickel based anti-seize in a package as "travel by air and go up in a bucket truck" friendly as the one I described.

I put some Loctite "Silver Grade" on some stainless hardware and it seemed to work well. I have at least two problems with this experiment. First, I have lots of good experience with stainless on stainless dry. But, our current problems prove that a successful anti-galling strategy requires a lot more than having something work well once or twice. Second, I don't have any way to age my experiment. The data sheet states that the product is "non-curing" and permits "easy disassembly of assemblies exposed to high temperatures, such as boiler and oven parts." They don't say anything about parts exposed to more moderate temperatures and sunlight, weather, dust, dirt, bird droppings, etc. for years.

Once again, I'll contact the manufacturer in the morning. I'm just looking for comments from people that do not have their paychecks signed by the manufacturer.

Bruce

Stainless steel on stainless steel tends to gall. I would favour something like copper grease (anti-seize compound). Used for brakes, but also in the petrochem industry for stainless fittings. It comes in all sorts of packages, including aerosol.

I would not induce any metal like anti seize, since there will be material transfer, stainless steel tends to show electrolysis in time. In your aerosol spray it is probably isolated from weather and that's why it lasts. I would use graphite grease with no different dopes in it. Had good results with it.

Bruce, I suggest you go to the NASA website and inquire. You'll get purely scientific information [No Hard Sell] that has been researched for years. Now, what they use may cost $10,000.00 an ounce but it will work!

There are several article archives to choose from as well as a monthly publication. The company that does all of NASA's corrosion analysis is an outfit called Dynacs, that is chock full of guys telling you how different metals react with each other at extreme temperatures. They don't like an astronaut radioing back down saying he can't loosen a bolt and they also work with 100 year life cycle programs!

Top Notch bunch that I call on for information in my business from time to time. Word of caution -- If you get in touch with one of their corrosion engineers, make certain you ask your question correctly -- or you'll just get a Blank Stare!! Good Luck

The company I work for do cable stays for bridges.

In 2006 I had to fix some hot dip galv steel anchor caps to other steel items, & the fixings were so small (M10) that the only durable & available material for the fixings (socket head cap screws) was stainless steel. This would normally need to be separated from other metals, & anti-galling provided between the stainless steel male threads & the black steel female tapped holes.

The cap screws were electrically isolated from the hot dip galv steel by synthetic washers & bushings, ok.

But I still needed some protection & anti-gall for the threads, for which we used Devcon "Stop-Seize Nickel", nickel (not copper type) part no. 19030 (500 g tin), which also happened to have a brush on the underside of the lid.

The first of these is being diss-assembled for regular planned inspection due Dec 2011, won't know until then for sure whether it has worked or not.

Regards

Chris

My experience in the outdoor luminaire field is that "Nickelslip" works reasonably well as an anti-seize in applications where aluminum and S/steel are mated and frequently opened in normally dryer climates. However, for areas of high humidity and maritime climates,galvanic attack set in between the aluminum and S/steel and causes the threads to "weld" here we "Helicoil" the aluminum threads with a S/steel "Helicoil" which interfaces with the S/steel bolts and screws. This is the best solution we have found.

Have you tried the zinc paste plumbers use on fittings ? Loctite also make a non locking product that I use to exclude moisture from fittings .

Bruce,

I use this stuff in work and I have had no trouble with seizing since we got it in.

This is food grade version but I think that they do a regular version.

Hope this helps you out.

PRODUCT DATA SHEET

PRODUCT NAME: Food Grade Assembly Grease CODE: FF170

White, non-toxic grease-like compound with a high solids lubricant content designed for use as an assembly lubricant for lubricating bushes, sliding surfaces and small open plastic or metal gears and anti-seize compound for threaded fasteners. The compound is designed to prevent damage during start up and protect against premature wear during the running in period.

Cost Saving Benefits

1. Provides protection during running in, prolonging component life

2. Provides protection against scuffing during assembly

3. Resists water wash extending relubrication intervals when used as a service lubricant

4. Prevents seizure of threaded components enabling easy and quick dismantling

5. Dismantled threaded components can be reused.

Method of Application

Food Grade Assembly Grease should be applied sparingly as a thin film using a brush or lint-free cloth. Surfaces must be cleaned well before application. Not suitable for the lubrication of anti-friction bearings.

Typical Physical Characteristics

Appearance White smooth paste

Carrier Synthetic lubricating oil

Solid lubricant White lubricant solids and PTFE

Water washout (ASTM D1264) @ 38oC <1% max.

Dynamic corrosion resistance

(EMCOR)(IP220) 0:0

Operating temperature range -30oC to +150oC (service lubricant)

-30oC to +1100oC (anti-seize)

All ingredients are FDA listed MDE FOOD ASSEMBLY GREASE/ANTI-SEIZE

is NSF H1 registered and meets the USDA 1998 H1 Guidelines.

NSF Registration No.124144 .

This product contains no nut derived or genetically modified ingredients.

Maintenance Direct Europe Ltd.

Unit 1 Greenview Business Park

Edgar Estate

Carryduff

County Down

BT8 8AN

UK Tel: 028 9081 7081 Fax: 028 9081 7447

International Tel: 0044 2890 817 447 Fax: 0044 2890 817 447

E-MAIL technical@lubricantsuppliers.

I suggest that you look at silver coated bolts, they are extensively used in the uhv systems

From the varying opinions and experiences you are getting, it sounds like a lot of things work well, and using something is better than using nothing. I to have had stainless on stainless seize in both pipes and bolts. If confirmed by Loctite, I would go with the sticks you are considering for the convenience factors you stated yourself. Loctite has many good products for many applications. We use several different types of their products and have been satisfied with them all. I do not have any affiliation with Loctite. I do general machine maintenance in an automotive casting, machining, testing and assembly plant.

My experience has shown that using different grades of stainless steel, in this case 316 bolts with 304 huts and washers, works ok and I have personnally dismantled equipment that has been outside for 40 years.

That is an interesting twist. I wonder why there is a benefit to having different grades of stainless?

Bruce

Bruce,

Just talked to a Manufacturing Engineer from a local company that produces both the standard light poles for the Departments of Transportation and the "Nostalgic" poles for individual municipalities. They use a Bostik "Never Seez" Regular Grade anti-seize compound available in many styles and sizes.

https://www.ellsworth.com/products/by-manufacturer/bostik/lubricant-products/anti-seize/bostik-never-seez-regular-grade-anti-seize-lubricant-silver-1-lb-can/

You may also want to check the appropriate DOT specs or any other governing codes. Good luck!

The best and most economical solution I found was to mechanical zinc plate the SST nut. It works well regardless of nut installation methods, including high speed nut runners in high volume production.

Bruce,

This company claims to have never had stainless steel nuts and bolts gall with their lub, and they guarantee it. You can can even get a sample to try.

"FASTORQ® A/G thread lubricant is "guaranteed" to eliminate galling on stainless steel threaded connections. It performs as an excellent sealant and lowers torque requirements, as proper make-up is achieved quickly with minimum torque."

I've had occasion to use this material in a subsea application and it is definitely good stuff, not cheap, not easy to find, but good.

Thank you everyone for the useful comments.

I am still keeping my eyes and ears open but I have learned a little more. I called the Loctite Industrial number. They told me that the stick I was considering should work, but it was not on their list of recommendations. He told me that they have had some (rare) reports of galling and seizing of stainless on stainless with nickel based anti-seize. That surprised me.

The Loctite Industrial recommendations were (Loctite products of course) their "Heavy Duty" (graphite based and it is available in a stick) and their "Marine Grade" (not available in a stick). Based upon the "fly with it" and "carry it up a ladder in your pocket" goals I guess that "Heavy Duty" is currently at the top of my list.

I don't have a loyalty to Loctite, but I do like the ability to easily get any amount I like quickly from sources like MSC Direct and McMaster Carr. With these sources Loctite seems to be the dominant supplier in stick form.

This is still interesting and I'll keep checking this thread for any additional comments.

Thank you to all,

Bruce

Loctite is one of the good guys out there. I've used their products for many years with good consistent results. I do read the sheets and apply accordingly.

I like stainless steels but have had some galling in high pressure hydraulic fittings to the point of dry test fitting for mock-up and tearing the threads out on disassembly the same day!

Nickle based Anti seize either Loctite or Permatex (since bought out by Loctite) I have used on industrial and vehicle applications for 30 years. Undercarriage bolts subject to salt spray and everything else have worked out very well including exhaust manifold to pipe studs. 500*F bolts are almost always nickle anti seized,.. if not.. good luck getting them out.

My biggest problem using Stainless bolts and nuts has been that they do not corrode and will loosen on a vehicle over time. Double nutting solved that issue.

I have used regular carbon steel nuts and bolts thru aluminum with Nickle Anti seize and did not have corrosion issues 5-6 years later (in the Salt Belt).

Sorry Stainless and Aluminum I have no data.

One of my industrial customers asked us to only use copper based anti seize as the nickle based stuff would seize on high strength fine thread bolts (carbon) subject to repeated cyclic loading. It's the first I have heard of this, but of course he is the boss!

My opinion is to use something rather than nothing.