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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Converting from Belt Drive to Chain Drive

11/23/2010 1:11 AM

Dear All,

1. Chain drive or belt drive?. which is better?. There is a paper feeding system at my coating machine. This system is being driven by a V-belt drive. RPM of V-belt are about 60-70rpm. Problem is that v-belt is being damaged again and again after short intervals about twice a month and we need to change the v- belt again and again. So should I convert to chain drive now?. Is chain drive better than belt drive?

2. What are the pre-requirements for converting belt drive to chain drive?

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#1

Re: converting from belt drive to chain drive

11/23/2010 3:49 AM

Depends.

Why is the belt drive failing? Are the belts slipping? Pulleys not in line? Oil leak near the belts? etc. etc.

Belts have a lot of good points; comparatively clean and quiet, cheap to maintain (usually), low maintenance. Plus they can provide a deliberate weak link in the drive line - they'll slip rather than allow something else to fail. If the belts are slipping on your machine is it a symptom of something else?

You could consider changing the type of belt drive; different belt section, more belts, or synchronous type (I'm presuming you're on wedge belts)

If you really want to change to a chain drive then work through Fenner's drive specification sheet here

Fenner also do a Drive Designer for belt drives here which may help

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#2

Re: converting from belt drive to chain drive

11/23/2010 6:45 AM

Hint: bicycles are powered by chain drive. Why is that, then? <sigh>

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#3

Re: Converting from Belt Drive to Chain Drive

11/23/2010 8:44 AM

As ask prior, why is the belt failing. Converting to chain only fixes or mask a problem that may come back to haunt your even worse then before. Need to analyze the reasons for belt failures before stepping off the conversion stone into the fire.

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#4

Re: Converting from Belt Drive to Chain Drive

11/23/2010 8:55 AM

au.umair

Chains have their downside also.

Such as noise.

chain stretch, (means all of the factory tightness has loosened), This also means you may need a chain tensioner device.

Maintenance (worse case would be an oil bath)

GCPad is right. I would discuss your issues with the belt supplier. If they can't give you good technical advice, then go to the manufacturer. I've switched types of belts in the past and gotten way better performance.

In the US if we don't get good advice and help from a supplier we find a different supplier.

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#5

Re: Converting from Belt Drive to Chain Drive

11/24/2010 10:29 AM

It might be a torque issue requiring a double belt drive. Belt sheeves could also be worn letting the belt slip to deep into the grooves. Might want to consider new pulleys.

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#6

Re: Converting from Belt Drive to Chain Drive

11/24/2010 11:10 AM

Timing belts Timing belt Belt-drive cog on a belt-driven bicycle

Timing belts, (also known as Toothed, Notch, Cog, or Synchronous belts) are a positive transfer belt and can track relative movement. These belts have teeth that fit into a matching toothed pulley. When correctly tensioned, they have no slippage, run at constant speed, and are often used to transfer direct motion for indexing or timing purposes (hence their name). They are often used in lieu of chains or gears, so there is less noise and a lubrication bath is not necessary. Camshafts of automobiles, miniature timing systems, and stepper motors often utilize these belts. Timing belts need the least tension of all belts, and are among the most efficient. They can bear up to 200 hp (150 kW) at speeds of 16,000 ft/min.

Timing belts with a helical offset tooth design are available. The helical offset tooth design forms a chevron pattern and causes the teeth to engage progressively. The chevron pattern design is self-aligning. The chevron pattern design does not make the noise that some timing belts make at idiosyncratic speeds, and is more efficient at transferring power (up to 98%).

Disadvantages include a relatively high purchase cost, the need for specially fabricated toothed pulleys, less protection from overloading and jamming, and the lack of clutch action.

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