GE Range Issue

JB960WOB1WW is not a good number.

There is not really a question in your post.

Did it work, and then this trouble appeared? What happened between working and now? Did you move to another house? Did you unhook it to mop under the range?

^{_{Do you think she's a blond??}}

Like OMG.............that was a cheap shot!

Huh?

Top marks for demonstrated ranting skills.

Try http://www.searspartsdirect.com

They have parts (and online documentation) for most brands of appliances.

A lot of GE range tops use a bi-metallic spring that is load by a cam that preloads the spring - the higher the temperature the more pressure on the spring thus increasing the amount of time current flows to the range element.You may have a build up of grease on and around the spring that is keeping the switch closed. This is the same as the high setting. If you are mechanically inclined you may be able to take the switches out, disassemble them and clean them out with a solvent. Alternatively, you can find sources for new replacement switches in the $40 USD range each by searching the internet

If all 4 hotplates are the same, and they have been like that since new, somebody wired it up wrongly.....get an electrician.

Does the fact that OP referred to burners and not elements mean something? Do we know if this is gas or electric?

I first thought the reference to burners as indicating a gas unit, but I think the most likely candidate for the range is electric.

As you say, this is still a guess.

You're probably right. We have one similar to this and there would be no doubt if the "burners" were not cycling on and off. There is no provision to "throttle back" the elements as in a gas stove. They are either on, or off.

It's interesting that all elements are affected.

VERY FRUSTRATING!

But not so frustrating for Purdygurl that she will provide more info.

Thank you all!

It is electric with elements under glass top.

Thanks again.

purdygurl, in your original post you said

"All of the burners on stove top appear to operate on high all of the time irrespective of the control setting selected?

VERY FRUSTRATING!"

Is this truly just a comment? Or are you asking for some help to remedy what is (according to you) a frustrating situation?

When you go to a restaurant and the waiter asks you five questions, do you only answer one question? If you go to the doctor and he asks you five questions, do you only answer one of them? Then how can we help you if you don't tell us some more about your stove?

Found your # here. Maybe these people have a solution.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=JB960WBWW

Considering it's all four burners it's either wired wrong, or if they worked before, it's probably this expensive part. The main controller, (brain). If you click on your model # it shows a parts diagram. I think it's unlikely that all four went out simultaneously.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2633104

You guys be nice!!!!! We don't pick on girls!!

Even more frustrating, 'purdygurl', is the answer to your problem, you can look forward to buying a new ERC for your range or repairing the one you have but the cost is in the $300 range. Aren't these electronics nice..I would suggest finding a used stove for parts or replacing it with a more conventional model. If they still exist..

If you need to replace, go the induction type.

I can give you more infos and a very cheap way to do it if you wish to know.....

I have noted that with our JENN-AIR glass top, when you set it to medium (for example) it comes on full boar until it gets up to temperature, then it shuts off. When it cools a wee bit, then it comes back on again etc. etc. etc. It does NOT heat to medium and stay there. I can see the burner go on and off through the glass. It is more energy efficient this way, and you may have no problem at all.

Put a pot of water on the stove and set it to low. If the water never boils things are working proper. If it DOES boil then you definitely have a problem.

Thought that comes to mind is pulse width modulation... like in a switching power supply.

Bill

Well, either the control switches and thermostats are out of order or it is Operator error.

Some options:

1. Read and inwardly digest the instruction manual that came with the aim of eliminating Operator error.
2. Take it back to where it was purchased and have a warranty repair carried out.
3. Take it to a local Service Technician for <...GE...>.
4. Have a local Service Technician call in and service it.
5. Wholesale replacement, either with the same or an alternative unit.
6. Abandonment of the facility and weigh it in for scrap.
7. Etc.