Philippine 230/240V Two Wire System to 110/120V U.S.

You may need to know what is called the "phasor" or "vector" diagram of each circuit involved. Especially the potential to ground (earth) of each point in the system.

There are various types of systems that depend on what is grounded and what is not. Each type may have some safety advantages and disadvantages, but the key is not to intermix the types.

The subject is more complex than can be easily described in a few forum notes.

I truly find this interesting.

Hopefully someone knows a little about the Philippine System and can comment.

One thing for sure is that for example the U.K. (England) system I know has a lot of safety built into it. But even that system is simply two 115V hot leads with an earth ground that is actually optional to use. Many items plugged in are two wire items not three.

So I guess I am curious now. Are you saying that taking one side of a 220/240 volt system and making an earth ground for the other side of a two prong American simple appliance of low wattage will blow it up? If the cycles are the same being 60 cycles for both (not that, that point is the issue here) what is the real issue in layman's terms. I am not in plan to tap this at the breaker box. My question is how they do these multi voltage solutions in the Philippines where an outlet box has both a 240 plug AND an American 110/120 volt plug. They for sure have this. They must have a neutral side. Is that neutral side earth ground? My breaker box in America certainly has earth ground on the neutral side.

I just can not be the first guy who is asking this modification of a Philippine system to run an American Coffee Pot or other 115 volt item of low wattage.

I just do not get what these converters do so magically. Step down? Ok. But where is the neutral side of what plugs in come from? Then there is discussions a lot on using a UPS. Can someone explain to me what is happening inside these boxes that resolves this? Then there is the argument of the converters working hard and heating up? How can that happen? The voltage is "going down not up" I can see those converters working in the U.K. Their system is for sure having ground at the plug outlet. So getting to a neutral makes sense to me But in the Philippines for sure NOTHING is wired for ground that I saw ANYWHERE that was in a house. Ok....Maybe an Air conditioner there has three prongs, but for sure no simple electric outlet. So this idea of a step down transformer or converter is still a puzzle for me that it works and is safe. On the net one forum says that the step down transformers work perfectly fine and the next forum will say - no they do not work well, heat up, and draw a lot of current. I am not out to upset the smart guys on this site. But please someone take this on and try to explain this as the data on the net about it is all over the place as to what is actually fact and what is a guess.

You won't like me much after you have read this, but you are badly/dangerously informed about the UK's voltages. What you are saying if followed, could actually kill someoone.....your knowledge of both the UK and US electrical systems is full of (dangerous) holes. Go and take a proper training somewhere.....before someone dies...

The UK has a phase to neutral voltage of around 230 volts (its posted as being 240 volts, but it depends upon how far away from the substation you are situated).

IT IS NOT A DUAL 115 VOLT SYSTEM AS YOU WROTE....

There is no way (without a transformer) that you can get 115 volts safely in the UK (or mainland Europe either!!)

Phase to ground will still give 230 volts in the UK as the neutral and earth are connected at the substation....(I believe that this is generally true in most countries, even in the USA) this is to cause a short if the frame of any equipment ever becomes connected to the phase. This will allow fuses to blow or similar (breakers).

To the best of my knowledge, the USA has a single phase system, with a neutral center tap, so connecting between neutral and phase will give around 115 volts.

If only the hot legs are used, and not the neutral, you get over 200 volts....

I would appreciate a US El.Engineer chiming in here with the facts.....

GA from me...

and just to support your comments if anyone would like to follow the links.. it might explain the UK system of earthing and voltage

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity

Have a SAFE day everyone

I agree that the two systems are different in the U.S and the U.K. all together.

That is why you can not take an American Dryer that is 220v/240v and just plug it into a U.K. circuit It wont work

I do not know WHY it does not work however. I just know you can not do it. Same for our other U.S. 220v/230v stuff like motors and the such. This is besides the 50hz vs 60 hz difference.

I know that there are basics as to why the systems are different. I just think that I can not be the only person curious.

What bugs me is that there also must be differences between the two systems of the UK and the Philippines but I seem not to get straight answers on it. One day I will sort it out and know. This issue of one being 50hz and the other 60hz is a minor difference. But the design is different and that is what is of a puzzle.

That being said....I think a U.K. appliance most likely will work in the Philippines but I do not know that for sure yet. Any motor like a fan will be not so good because of the 60hz vs 50 hz difference. I also hear that microwaves will not work so well from the U.K. to the Philippines.......maybe a rumor.

I have both U.K. items and U.S. items just to make things confusing. I use U.K. items here in the U.S. on a step up transformer just fine. Carrying those items to the Philippines is still of question.

Thank you

You are still writing rubbish about electricity. Dangerous rubbish in some cases.....

That is why you can not take an American Dryer that is 220v/240v and just plug it into a U.K. circuit It wont work.

Of course it will work once you have changed the plug.....and connected it correctly.

I do not know WHY it does not work however. I just know you can not do it. Same for our other U.S. 220v/230v stuff like motors and the such. This is besides the 50Hz vs 60 Hz difference.

Because you haven't a clue what you are talking about.... Hair dryers for example have usually got universal motors, they run on either AC or DC as long as the voltage is correct, they do not even notice the frequency difference at all.....Even US travel hair dryers have a switch to swap between 115 and 230 volts.....Most power drills are the same if not battery powered....

I do not know WHY it does not work however. I just know you can not do it. Same for our other U.S. 220v/230v stuff like motors and the such. This is besides the 50Hz vs 60 Hz difference.I know that there are basics as to why the systems are different. I just think that I can not be the only person curious.

You are not being curious, you are making false statements, please learn the difference as quickly as possible....

What bugs me is that there also must be differences between the two systems of the UK and the Philippines but I seem not to get straight answers on it. One day I will sort it out and know. This issue of one being 50Hz and the other 60Hz is a minor difference. But the design is different and that is what is of a puzzle.

Most devices for 230 volts will not notice the different frequencies, they will simply work once the plug is changed. Some motors, or electronics that use the frequency for timing in some way, may get problems with the different frequencies....

What bugs me is that there also must be differences between the two systems of the UK and the Philippines but I seem not to get straight answers on it. One day I will sort it out and know. This issue of one being 50Hz and the other 60Hz is a minor difference. But the design is different and that is what is of a puzzle.

I have already mentioned the problems of frequency.

Best of luck.......

Andy,

for Electronic devices you are correct about the 50/60Hz differences, however for magnetics - ie motors/transformers it can be an issue - the devices designed for 60 Hz have and require less iron in the magnetic path and for cost the manufacturers always use less iron UNLESS the item is designed for multi-frequency. Plug a 230V motor or transformer designed exclusively for 60Hz for the US into a UK or Australian 230V 50Hz supply and it will work, but it will run HOT especially if it is being used close to its designed power rating.

Items designed for 50Hz will run happily on 60Hz without any problems - they will run cooler, therefore European or Australian appliances will operate happily in the USA, but going the other way can be problematic ..... but not always, it depends on the design of the magnetics.

I don't think you fully read and understood what I wrote, here is the relevant sentence again:-

Most devices for 230 volts will not notice the different frequencies, they will simply work once the plug is changed. Some motors, or electronics that use the frequency for timing in some way, may get problems with the different frequencies....

I have underlined the bit about motors that you appear to have missed!! I was keeping it simple for the other poster that simply does not understand electrics....I don't think that a full explanation would have been understood at this point....one must always aim at the knowledge level of the audience!!

ok I will take your comments and continue

This is good news that maybe I can use my American Dryer in the Philippines if I understood you right.

The frequency in the Philippines is 60 hz same as the U.S. so we can put that subject aside.

I guess you have some answer as to wiring an outlet or breaker box to end up a safe 110 volt American supply without a step down converter. 240 volts there is two wires so forget about the U.K. system....it does not apply to the Philippines

I can not wait for your explanation as you certainly seem to know what you are talking about. If you do not I hope the other engineers here will set what you say straight.

I will remain not agreeing with plugging a converter step down into just a two wire system to go from 240 volt Philippine system to 110 volt American item. But maybe you have some wisdom on that. It seems like you could not get a good neutral but I am not sure.

Sorry about the rubbish. I am not expecting anyone here to listen to me nor am I going to just start plugging things in and hope for the best.

There are a lot of factors also like size of wire, load and grounding. I do not mind what you said here..... I do not take offense.

I would prefer however that you do not assume anything crosses over from a U.K. system to a Philippine system unless you know

Best Regards

Tim

I was correcting your misunderstandings between both the US and the UK first, then adding in the Philippines afterwards.....

Due to the inherent dangers in trying to adapt between systems, when your knowledge is completely flawed, there is no way round but to call " A spade a spade" (or a F*****G shovel !!). It may even keep you alive!!!

Also, the pages of CR4 are sometimes used by other readers to increase their knowledge, if none of us corrected impaired thinking here, who knows what might have happened....electricity is dangerous....

Use of 50Hz appliances on 60Hz is questionable. I lived in Western Saudi Arabia, when the power frequency (for some unfathomable reason) was changed from 50Hz to 60Hz. Then the electric clothes dryers didn't work, since the drums turned 20% faster, and the clothes all stuck to the inside of the drum due to centrifugal force, rather than tumbling as designed. The elevators in the local hospital stopped working, since the motors could no longer develop sufficient torque.

I just signed up in this forum because i have the same concern on what is asked above and looking for same solution... I lived in the Philippines, and there's a confusion on the electrical system here. Basically, our standard electrical supply is 220v 60hz. But, the sad thing and i say the confusion is on the distribution system. Generally, most Distribution Companies have this Line to Ground system (esp on the rural areas), from the Electrical post to the Household units, there's 1 insulated wire (hot 220v) and 1 open wire (ground or neutral). The problem is, the outlet on the houses have 2 same size holes only, not the "Funny Face Outlet" that's with 1 long hole, 1 short hole and a circle hole in the middle. I know, this system is kinda old school and this is not safe at all. Ironically, when you go to urban areas or some key Cities, we have different kind of distribution system. We have LINE to LINE system, 1 line is at 110v and the 2nd line is another 110v (still 220v) but no grounding either. I feel like this is much safer compared to line to ground (neutral) system without grounding on the rural areas. The advantage of this is, if you plug your electronic devices and you touch the metal body of the device, you won't feel any tingling on your skin unlike on the line to ground (neutral) without grounding at all. Another good thing is when you are electrically shocked, the electrical charges will throw you AWAY from the point where you touch the live wire and not that you will stick to the live wire and get electrocuted. Now my concern is for the safety of my kids and family members. I have some electronic devices which rated 110v. I'm planning to put some outlets in my house (i have 2 houses on different areas, and both have different electrical distribution system as explained above) with a 5000kva step down transformer (220v-110v) and add some grounding on my 110v outlets. Which transformer is SAFER to use, the one with a center tap secondary winding, 55v-0v-55v (55v (line 1) - center tap (0) to ground - 55v (line 2). Or just a simple transformer with 0-110v secondary winding and I will just add a ground wire connected to the ground itself? Safety, is just my main concern. Thank you.

Simply put (oh BTW I am from the Philippines), yes you can disconnect one pole from the outlet and "ground" it and get 110 VAC but this is a "shortcut" solution and has its risks. You can try it and with a simple volt meter measure the output before connecting anything to make sure that it is indeed 110 being "outputted". If you value your appliances, a simple step down transformer will solve your problem. As for re-wiring your entire house to have 110 in different locations. Then go the extras mile and hire a good electrician to do it otherwise beware! Having said that... everything now a days comes in "auto-Volt" so why even bother with all those hassles when the days of strictly 110 VAC devices are going the way of the dodo? Ton

ok so a step down works well

Do you ground the step down? I would think that you must do that in the two wire Phil system to either be safe or even have it work.

My ignorance is the question of where the neutral comes from on a step down.

It seems to me that the people that say (not you but others on the net) where they just say "use a step down transformer and all will be fine" is a flawed statement of a two wire Philippine system. It just seems to me that to be either safe or even work right you need to "add" a ground.

For sure older houses in the Phil have NO ground. Two wires come to the outlet and that is it.....

Thanks for listening. Your reply and the reply of others is greatly appreciated

I can not be the first guy on the planet to want to sort this out

Tim

Tim Bro... Step down will do you fine and safer. Philippine wiring has (specially in older structures) no ground at all. That third prong in the plug is next to useless here. You can cut the prong and nothing will happen. The rest of the comments here are way too technical and in the realm of engineers and Einstein look alikes. We use single phase 220 VAC at 60 hz. Thats our rating so if the appliance is from the U.S. and is also at 60Hz, just step it down and your good! As for UK devices.... sorry I have no experiences there.

If your flat screen takes anywhere as much power as a clothes or dish washer, you want to get rid of it FAST!!!!

A dishwasher takes around 1000 - 1500 watts for example. A clothes washer between 500 and 2000 watts depending upon the type (explained later).

Why not therefore read the labels/manuals for the equipment concerned and see what current/power is actually used before posting.......it would be a good start in your quest for knowledge.....

Here is an informative link about various TV technologies and the power used:-

http://reviews.cnet.com/green-tech/tv-power-efficiency/

Plasma TVs are the worst in (relatively) modern technology, up to 500 watts in a worst case scenario.

Older CRTs take even more, my last Phillips CRT television took almost 5 amps at 230 volts. Well over 1000 watts!!! It was HUGE though!!

My washing machine is too difficult to move out to look, but I bet it takes far more electricity, especially when heating water up (its a cold connect only machine) ....the heating element alone will be more that 1000 watts.....

Some countries use clothes washers with both a hot and cold connection, the UK for example (at least when I lived there!), which means that you can use cheaper hot water from gas, oil or wood etc...This also reduces the power used by the washer, so don't forget to differentiate between H/C and C only machines!!

(I always plumb my dish washer to the hot water line, the hot water from gas is cheaper and the washer programs run much faster as the heating element has only a need to "top off" for the higher temperature programs.....)

The types of clothes washer with a H/C connections typically use only 500 watts or so. Far less....

Check here-

http://www.absak.com/library/power-consumption-table

I hope this helps further as its very important to know the power used by various types of equipment. Clothes dryers are probably the all time worst (after block room heating!!).

Is the 240 transformed, or phase to centre point...neutral;....?

If a transformer is used, definitely not to earth, no circuit.

In Australia, MEN Point, ie Main earth neutral are joined at the board, except when an RCD is used, where inbalance currents can be monitored, on AE and NE.

It is suggested to consult a trained engineer as it involves safety

So far this system has not been adequately described. For instance, the designations 230/240V and 110/120V are not exactly correct, or at least not very useful.

From various references, it looks as though the Phillipine residential system is 240V, but I can't tell whether it is one phase only, opposite polarities of the same phase, two phases 120° apart, three phases 120°apart, center-tap delta, open delta, or something else. No one has explained what is grounded and what isn't.

"Shaver converters" and the like are low-load transformers, not suitable for most heaters, motors, nor any but small appliances. (Coffee makers are not small.) If people are burning up converters, it's because they are overloaded.

The converters I have read about are fairly large heavy duty types.

The question I have been asking is using a converter step down with the converter being plugged into a two wire outlet and then hooking up an appliance. I just don't see the logic of a two wire system with no ground like the Phil systems have working good with a converter. so since you live there please comment on this for me here.

My logic tells me that an earth ground should be added when plugging in the converter.

Thanks for your comments

Tim

I am not an expert on this subject, but I've lived in the Philippines as an expatriate for 13 years, using both 110 and 220 volt appliances and devices. These are a few facts that I know:

1. The Philippines is 60 Hz, not 50 Hz, so there's no problem with American equipment that uses synchronous motors working here. All that's needed is a transformer, and those are readily available.

2. Few homes are provided with safety grounding systems. Those few that are have a completely separate, true earth ground (copper rod connected to a separate copper conductor, not connected to either leg of the electrical supply). These are useful because most appliances made today assume that a safety ground is available and are therefore not double-insulated. The home I am renting is not grounded, and my lame attempt to install a ground has been ineffective. I am regularly zapped by my computer's case, and I arrange my kitchen so it's not possible to touch two electrical appliances in the kitchen simultaneously, as their frames are likely to be at different potentials.

3. Some expats have homes wired for both local standard and American standard appliances, with appropriately labeled outlets. I do not know how this is achieved, or whether it is available in all areas.

4. Local appliance shops are very good at rewiring appliances to use 220 directly, so if you are staying here long-term this is the best solution. Our TV is rewired this way, and the technician added a cooling fan to compensate for the higher temperatures here as well. Even some high-wattage appliances like hair dryers and toasters are designed with twin heating elements that can be wired in parallel for one voltage and in series for the other.

I am an electronic Engineer in Australia, and while I have no knowledge of the Philippine system, mucking around with mains power is sudden death!

If the appliances are not multi-voltage the only safe solution is a properly grounded step down transformer.

These should be available commercially but buy a reputable brand that is properly and fully tested and certified by the appropriate authorities.

I say again, do not play with the mains! - we value your continued participation in the forum!

Thank you

Your comment on the properly grounded converter seems logical as I just can not get it that a two wire system would work for a converter.

Do you think that the step down transformer will run hot? I do not get the logic that stepping down creates a lot of heat in the transformer itself but that is what I am reading on the net. They say that converting draws a lot more on a circuit. What I have read is that the wire on the supply side has to be larger to handle the load created. So I guess that the location of what you are hooking up would be a factor as to how far it is from the breaker box.

I will not muck around with the mains. Thank you for that

Thank you for writing on this

Tim

All transformers run warm, but if they get hot, there is something wrong - too much power being taken, too little cooling, bad design. The problem should be addressed.....

(Certain types of transformers are run immersed in oil in order to cool the inner parts better, they would run VERY hot with no proper cooling!) They tend to weigh more than a ton = not for house usage per se!

On a step down transformer, for example 2:1, the current in the primary will be approximately half of that at the secondary. Therefore the wiring could be half the thickness as compared to that of the secondary output.....that is the complete opposite of what you wrote.

(Note the primary is connected to the 230 volts and the secondary gives out the 115 volts for the US bought units.)

There are slight losses (the warming for example) involved, which I have ignored for the sake of simplicity....

You wrote:-

They say that converting draws a lot more on a circuit.

You are listening too often to "they"!!

"They" have no idea at all!!!

"They" are leading you astray!!!

Only if it is designed for 60Hz and run on 50Hz

You can buy converters that transformers 220V to 110V output. they call it there 220V to 110V transformers or step down transformers. They are inexpensive and affordable. You can run your stereo or TV or smaller than that, they have it there. They are abundant in manila, Phillippines.

Thank you

Do not re-wire your appliances. It is dangerous and a fire hazzard too. Buying a step down transformer is safer and cost the same as paying someone to re-wire your appliances. You can buy one that could even accomodate as big as a refrigerator. Just remember to buy the approriate one that can handle the load and not overload these step down transformers. Its that simple and safe.

Regarding the phasing, the phillipines uses 60Hz. It is a match with North America.

My quick answer to your query is yes, it is possible but it will be costly! The electrical distribution system in the Philippines is basically the same as here in the USA. But due mainly to the power distribution cost considerations and other economics related issues, the 230/240 volts supply becomes the standard available household power. On the supply generating side, as required by code, the center of the 3 phase source is grounded for safety as well as for power regulation.

Personally I did not have any cost related constraints when I did this project. I had the house re-wired for a 110/220 volts power system 45 years ago! I specified the following and saw to it that my system has a good and common earth /grounding rod, properly polarized and color coded power outlets to differentiate between 110V from 220V source, all two-wired appliances are properly terminated with a polarized plugs. Copper wires are sized accordingly and properly fused! And to minimized severe power variations, a distribution transformer was added when family growth demanded increased!

Most common reasons why the country remained a 230/240V households;

1) Poor design - Distribution Transformers that normally steps-down power to the household usable 220V level were not strategically / abundantly placed thus resulting to very poor power regulations, due to large IR drops along service lines. With this poor design, a typical 220 volt power lines varies anywhere from 170 to 270 volts depending on the time of the day can be experienced!

2) Poor code enforcements - Use of properly sized copper wires are rare, common practice is to use undersized cables which are much cheaper!

3) Poor economic conditions - a lot of copper wires are being cut, stolen, pilfered from main supply lines and/or power distributions systems and are being sold in the open market!

Good luck!

Thank you for your reply.

I have heard that houses have been re-wired for both 110 v and the Phil system both.

I also know that anything near the old Clark Base is widely both circuits because of so many Americans at one time there.

I am curious about what they do to make it work. But maybe you do not remember over 40 years ago.

I do not know if I would actually do it on a rented house but my fiancee and I will build a house eventually.

For now I am renting an ocean front house that is fairly new. To modify someone elses house is a stretch I think and I may or may not get approval for that plan.

My curiosity is getting the best of me however as to what exactly they do in a re-wire to gain the neutral on the 110 volts. I have heard of these properly marked multi outlets where both the 110 volts is there along with the 240 volts. My question is just the logistics of how they achieve it.

I guess you live in the U.S. but maintain a house in the Phil? Or was this just long time ago you lived there but do not keep a house there now.

Just Curious

Thank you

Tim

Tim,

What I did 40 years ago will be the same thing that you'll need to be done today for a whole house applications! You need to hire a local professional electrician to do what needs to be done. But if your need is just to operate one or two appliances, then a stepdown transformer will suffice and the easiest - cheapest route.

Regular electrical house wiring in the US is basically the same as in old country. The power company will have 2 hot (black) wires labeled or known as (L1 & L2), plus a 3rd neutral wire (white) coming into the house. L1 & L2 are fed directly into the main CB panel, normally rated @ about 200 Amperes. The incoming voltage between L1/L2 is a single phase 230V like those in the Philippines.

For 110 volt service outlets:

L1 and L2 will be then split separately into different CB protected 110V circuits,distributed throughout the house. So each 110 outlets will have a Neutral (white) wire, an L1 OR an L2 which are (black) and sometimes a 3rd wire called Ground (colored either green or bare copper) used for safety. This Ground wire and the Neutral white wire will be all tied together together with a much bigger white Neutral that came in from the utility post, which may or may not have the big stepdown transformer) from the Utility company.

For 220 Volt service outlets:

L1 and L2 wires will be connected via a double ganged CB for each 220 volts supply. Both wires will be distributed anywhere in the house where 220V is desired using copper cables with Black and Red color insulations to run L1 and L2, and a bare copper conductor for Ground (safety) and connected or terminated to a physically different power outlet depending on the required amperage connector and as specified by the National Elec Code. Corresponding 220V appliances have different types of power plug as determined mainly by its power requirement.

You will be spending a fortune in the Philippines just to implement the same for the whole house and as stated above! Cost is the #1 reason why the NEC standards can't be followed or implemented as spelled!

Additionally, there are other ways you can do to achieve what you want, but you still need to talk to a local electrician to implement them. Just be sure that proper wire size and type are used throughout! There are those who are honest and very creative. To find one you need to do some research, ask around from local friends and referrals, at the same time, you also need to be always on your toes specially in the Metro Manila area!

Good answer except for one point I feel. I may be reading more into your excellent comment than I should, but I was under the impression that the neutral/earth connection is only allowed once per phase after the substation.

You implied, to my mind, that the incoming cables to the house would also have this link.

But if each house had such a link, you will have lots of loops between earth and neutral. The type of problem that causes escapes me at this moment, but I do remember its not good......

Perhaps you could clear that point up for us all.......

Mr. Andy,

Typically utility poles providing power to the residential communities normally carry or transmit power in the low KV range using bare cables. The low KV power is converted down to the 230V range using an oil immersed stepdown isolation transformers, where residential power cable feeds will be derived and get connected to. Beside the low KV cable run that is mounted on the top most end of the poles, a second cable run is also mounted about 3 ft below the high tension cable. This 2nd cable run is grounded via a copper wire that runs down each pole to earth ground. This 2nd cable serves as the return path for the transformer's primary windings. Each poles may also carry a 3rd cable run (also grounded) for other utility distribution lines, such as telephones, cable TV, etc. for the neighborhood.

A regular residential house will have an incoming power cable feed derived from the secondary sides of the pole mounted transformer. It will be now composed of 2 hot - black insulated, and 1 bare - grounded cable that initially will serve as a mechanical support for the 2 hot - black insulated wires. From the pole, this bare cable is anchored to the rigid metal conduit which is also redundantly grounded on the house service side. As this cable pass thru the metering unit, a white neutral wire is developed and run to the electrical panels in the house. All appliances, outlets and GFI's ground and neutral wires are individually terminated, and bonded to this main neutral wire inside the electrical panel. The main neutral wire can be traced back to be electrically connected to earth ground via that bare cable support from the pole!

By the way, the low KV leg distributed around certain sections of the community is only a single phase, part of a 3-phase system coming from a particular sub-station. It is possible to get different feeds coming from two different sub-stations to serve a particular service site. This concept is used as a redundant emergency measures as an example, in hospital applications. Besides having there own local emergency generator(s), it is still possible for the hospital to be partially powered from another commercially available source.

That sounds to be similar to the system Australia uses in the outback, and also south Africa I believe......

Quite simply it works!!!

Thanks for the infos.

Tim,

I forgot to mention, the 3rd wire known as Neutral here in the States, serves as the common return path to complete the circuit, while the 4th wire designated as Ground which may either be bare or has a colored green insulation serves as a back up return path for safety purposes. Both the neutral and ground wires are eventually electrically tied, connected together inside the Electrical Panel. Neutral wires are of the same wire size as its counter side on the black (hot side) wire. Wire sizes are normally determined by the amount of current (ampere) they can safely carry with minimum heating and IR drop! The green ground wire on the other hand can be smaller in size due to its minor safety role in sinking any excess leakage current in the circuit.

Now to create an equivalent neutral line in your house in the Philippines, you'll need to established a very good, solid and properly sized grounding conductor mechanism for the whole house! The equivalent size should have a very low impedance and be able to carry total amperage requirement of the combined circuits. Depending on your site's ground condition and conductivity, a minimum of 6 ft. deep burial may be needed to enhance voltage stability and regulation.

The islands are known correctly as "The Philippines! The "s" is important!!

One of the best references on this is The Soares Book on Grounding and Bonding. If one is not conversant with the general ideas, this book will likely be gobbledygook.

There are some systems (notably marine) in which nothing is grounded (i.e., they are "floating"). Apart from those, one pole of a single-phase transformer secondary normally will be grounded (neutral). This establishes the ungrounded pole as "hot," and circuit breakers/fuses/switches will be in the "hot" line, with no such interruptions in the neutral.

For small appliances with no conductive exposed parts, such grounding may be unnecessary. Thus a small "wall wart" converter might not be grounded. Transformers for loads over 25 or 50VA or so, however, should ordinarily be grounded.

The OP seems to be using words that sound okay individually, but they are combined into a loosely tossed "word salad" that conveys no real understanding of the subject. Thus it would be best to get knowledgeable advice. I realize that this is a "Catch-22": How can one tell when advice is knowledgeable, when lacking the knowledge to evaluate it?

Vsar has gotten things about right. I can think of a few minor quibbles, but they would probably confuse matters rather than help.

That is always the $64,000 question, when an isolation transformer is used, how to earth or not?

If only double insulated devices are connected, then no earth is needed, but for other equipment, there could be a need to connect one side of the transformer secondary winding to frame ground/neutral. The frame gound also to be physically conneted to a "real" ground.

The sockets to still have 3 wires, connecting earth to earth, frame to neutral (yes they are connected together ONCE at the transformer only) and the other end of the secondary as phase via a fuse or CB. An ELCB is an even better method!.

Earth ground connections need to be regularly checked with the proper type of resistance meter.....as on any equipment.

Its really outside of the "safe" possibilities of a blog to cover all details here.....but a good electrician would be a good idea....

There are two types of distribution systems in the Philippines. In Manila and in some places near old U.S. military bases, the service drop is two 110 load wires and a neutral. In most of the rest of the country you will find one 230v load and a neutral. In those areas there is no way to get 115v except with a step down transformer. Except that some expats buy and install their own transformers, usually surplus from the U.S. They use the normally unused secondary center tap to get their 115v.

In the Philippines, being in the temperate zone the chosen normal mode of power transition supplying residential customers is 230 Volts. I believe this was done mainly due to economic reasons. Being a poor country located in a hot region, enables the utilities to use smaller gauge of copper wire to deliver same amount of needed power. Since majority of customer's appliances are 220V, only 2 hot wires (L1, L2) are provided to residential houses. Since copper thefts are also rampant through out the country. A 3rd wire serving as nuetral, are only provided if specially ordered and paid for by the customer. A 4th Grounding wire for safety are derived locally, via a well buried grounding rod or from nearby overhead lines.

I've lived in the Philippines for a number of years, the comments in this post are correct.

We have a house in Manila, where we have two 110V lines and a neutral (the center tap of the supply transformer is connected to the suspension wire of the cable coming to the house, and we have a grounding rod at the house. We have a US clothes dryer which works perfectly. There are also a few 110V outlets in the house.

We also have a small place in Batangas, where we get one 230V wire and one neutral wire. There the only way to get 110V is by using a transformer.

I just signed up in this forum because i have the same concern on what is asked above and looking for same solution... I lived in the Philippines, and there's a confusion on the electrical system here. Basically, our standard electrical supply is 220v 60hz. But, the sad thing and i say the confusion is on the distribution system. Generally, most Distribution Companies have this Line to Ground system (esp on the rural areas), from the Electrical post to the Household units, there's 1 insulated wire (hot 220v) and 1 open wire (ground or neutral). The problem is, the outlet on the houses have 2 same size holes only, not the "Funny Face Outlet" that's with 1 long hole, 1 short hole and a circle hole in the middle. I know, this system is kinda old school and this is not safe at all. Ironically, when you go to urban areas or some key Cities, we have different kind of distribution system. We have LINE to LINE system, 1 line is at 110v and the 2nd line is another 110v (still 220v) but no grounding either. I feel like this is much safer compared to line to ground (neutral) system without grounding on the rural areas. The advantage of this is, if you plug your electronic devices and you touch the metal body of the device, you won't feel any tingling on your skin unlike on the line to ground (neutral) without grounding at all. Another good thing is when you are electrically shocked, the electrical charges will throw you AWAY from the point where you touch the live wire and not that you will stick to the live wire and get electrocuted. Now my concern is for the safety of my kids and family members. I have some electronic devices which rated 110v. I'm planning to put some outlets in my house (i have 2 houses on different areas, and both have different electrical distribution system as explained above) with a 5000kva step down transformer (220v-110v) and add some grounding on my 110v outlets. Which transformer is SAFER to use, the one with a center tap secondary winding, 55v-0v-55v (55v (line 1) - center tap (0) to ground - 55v (line 2). Or just a simple transformer with 0-110v secondary winding and I will just add a a 3rd ground wire connected to the ground itself? Safety, is just my main concern. Thank you.

I just signed up in this forum because i have the same concern on what is asked above and looking for same solution... I lived in the Philippines, and there's a confusion on the electrical system here. Basically, our standard electrical supply is 220v 60hz. But, the sad thing and i say the confusion is on the distribution system. Generally, most Distribution Companies have this Line to Ground system (esp on the rural areas), from the Electrical post to the Household units, there's 1 insulated wire (hot 220v) and 1 open wire (ground or neutral). The problem is, the outlet on the houses have 2 same size holes only, not the "Funny Face Outlet" that's with 1 long hole, 1 short hole and a circle hole in the middle. I know, this system is kinda old school and this is not safe at all. Ironically, when you go to urban areas or some key Cities, we have different kind of distribution system. We have LINE to LINE system, 1 line is at 110v and the 2nd line is another 110v (still 220v) but no grounding either. I feel like this is much safer compared to line to ground (neutral) system without grounding on the rural areas. The advantage of this is, if you plug your electronic devices and you touch the metal body of the device, you won't feel any tingling on your skin unlike on the line to ground (neutral) without grounding at all. Another good thing is when you are electrically shocked, the electrical charges will throw you AWAY from the point where you touch the live wire and not that you will stick to the live wire and get electrocuted. Now my concern is for the safety of my kids and family members. I have some electronic devices which rated 110v. I'm planning to put some outlets in my house (i have 2 houses on different areas, and both have different electrical distribution system as explained above) with a 5kva step down transformer (220v-110v) and add some grounding on my 110v outlets. Which transformer is SAFER to use, the one with a center tap secondary winding, 55v-0v-55v (55v (line 1) - center tap (0) to ground - 55v (line 2). Or just a simple transformer with 0-110v secondary winding and I will just add a a 3rd ground wire connected to the earth ground itself? Safety, is just my main concern. Thank you.

I also joined this site to garner electrical information regarding the Philippines electrical system

I have a house in the provinces that has a two wire 230v service... 2 breaker boxes.

I had a issue when a laptop with metal trim (surface pro 3) was buzzing me when ever my forearm brushed against it. That is when i learned the breaker boxes were not grounded.

I had a ground added to the breaker box thinking that would fix the issue, but come to find out a multi-voltage self- powered Bose speaker ( as well another speaker system purchased in the philippines) when connected would make the laptop trim hot, and vice-versa when removed.

2 questions....

1 How can the problem be rectified with the self powered speaker , if at all?

2 Is the problem inherent with powered speakers?

I also want to ship a single phase 230v 3 hp table saw for my hobby there. how will i wire it to prevent a "hot" saw like the laptop to a 2 wire 230?

Could not find how i could edit previous reply.

The table saw has a nema 6-15p.

You mention that you added a ground to the breaker box but did not give details. In most parts of the Philippines, the utility company will supply a drop with a 230VAC load wire and a bare neutral. They will not supply a separate ground. Many folks get away with just using the neutral as a ground, but the neutral cannot be relied on for that purpose. Install a separate ground. I used a bronze clamp on my rebar. Use three prong grounded outlets. Generally that will get rid of the tingling or shocks. If your appliance is not double insulated and has a two-prong plug, run a ground wire to the chassis.

I have several Earth grounds 2 of which are 20 ft. copper grounding rods. One at the pole, One at the meter, one installed in the ground when the first single story section of the house was built in 1996 directly below the Main CB Panel under the cement and yet a 4th earth ground for lightning rods.