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Overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 3:01 AM

I drive a 1996 mitsubishi delica space gear 4wd 4m40 engine.My problem is overheating at high speed.I had a new cylinder head,removed the thermostat,new radiator and put silicone oil in the fan clutch.Still overheats at 120 kph :( This Delica is our service vehicle in our orphanage (Ruel Foundation Philippines Inc.)

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#1

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 5:09 AM

You don't need a 120 KPH speed when your driving in an orphan. Orphanage service is not for racing. The acceptable speed in highways in the Philippines is only about 60 to 80 KPH. Have it tuned up and check oil level or change the oil perhaps.

Was the new radiator intended for that model, i mean a genuine replacement for 1996 or from other car model, just modified? If not, might be the wrong size of radiator or check the pump.

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#5
In reply to #1

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 10:05 PM

yes,it`s a genuine replacement from mitsubishi

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#7
In reply to #1

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 10:59 PM

hehehe :) 120 kph is on the motorway going to manila.radaitor is mitsubishi genuine parts intended for the delica.no conversion was done when they installed the new radiator.water pump is ok.

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#10
In reply to #7

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 11:10 PM

Several things: Is the stock valance behind the radiator? Are the grills, bumper, and external valances also in place? If so, and your ignition timing is ok, then it boils down to your fan clutch or water pump, even if you are sure they are ok. How is your belt tension?

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#34
In reply to #10

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 2:45 PM

You can ignore the fan, it is designed to operate at low speeds when the vehicle is not moving fast enough to generate enough airflow. At highway speeds the fan normally dis-engages, because there is already enough airflow. Just make sure the airflow is not blocked, i.e.; damage to the grill, improperly installed car bra, brush bumper, etc.

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#26
In reply to #7

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 7:47 AM

pag hindi pa tumino yan pards, palitan nalang ng driver, hehehe, joke lang!

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#8
In reply to #1

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 11:04 PM

I use mobil 1 delvac oil.i always check oil level and i just did an oil change january 2011.Radiator is genuine mitsubishi parts.water pump is ok.

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#25
In reply to #1

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 7:38 AM

Please stay within the Normalised abreviations:

KPH means nothing! You need to state it as km/h

Kilometres per hour. K by itself means Kilo only. it can be used for kilometres (km), kilograms (kg), kilolitres (kl), kilohertz (kHz)...

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#29
In reply to #25

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 9:28 AM

oops looks like pedantic Pete has gotten out of the bed on the wrong side. A bit grumpy for some reason - I wonder why .

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#35
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Re: overheating at 120 km/h

02/16/2011 2:50 PM

He can't be too upset, or he'd have changed the title.

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#63
In reply to #1

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/24/2011 8:33 PM

bira gid 165 km/h at SCTEX and Star tollway no more boiling Yehey :)

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#2

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 6:48 AM

I wouldn't recommend running your car with no thermostat, even in the Philippines. It's designed to operate within a certain temperature range, that's what the thermostat does.

Did you add the recommended antifreeze to the radiator? Antifreeze protects against overheating as well as freezing.

You didn't mention the water pump........are you sure it's circulating coolant through the engine?

Have you checked/changed engine oil? Low oil can make it run hot also.

Like the other poster said, you could slow down.

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#19
In reply to #2

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 5:57 AM

You wrote:-

Did you add the recommended antifreeze to the radiator? Antifreeze protects against overheating as well as freezing.

Not true, antifreeze actually reduces the cooling effect in comparison to water!! Which is why it must be dosed for the climate.....

Antifreeze has two important jobs:-

1) to stop the cool water from freezing and

2) to stop any electric current flow between different metals in the engine, which would "rot/dissolve" the metal lower in the table.

A third job is to lubricate seals in the pump and preserve any rubber etc in the cooling system.

In 1983, Mitsubishi delivered a lot of Galants to Germany with anti freeze for -60°C. (Far too much!!) Almost all of these vehicles overheated and ruined the cylinder head.....I bought one very, very cheap and put a new cylinder head on it, and the correct amount of antifreeze of course!

We drove it a further 300,000 KMs over a period of 5 years or so.....

Too much antifreeze is just as bad as too little generally.

Too little (say half) antifreeze still stops the water from freezing into a hard block and damaging the engine block, but will stop block the flow and cause the engine to overheat anyway if driven...as only the engine ice will melt, on a cold day the radiator will remain blocked....

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#22
In reply to #19

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 6:12 AM

Antifreeze actually does raise the boiling point of water and protects against overheating. You can find this sited all over the internet if you don't believe me. The mixture is important.

Another thing that they don't tell us..............Don't ever mix different colors of antifreeze.

http://autorepair.about.com/od/autorepairdictionary/a/def_antifreeze.htm

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#23
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Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 6:21 AM

You are missing the point completely:-

IT DOES NOT TRANSFER THE HEAT PROPERLY TO THE RADIATOR!!!

Its nowhere near as good as water alone does this.....THAT'S the problem, not the boiling point!!!

Even if the boiling point was increased to 1,000°C (which its not by the way) that would still not help the heat transfer rate!!! There is a technical term for this which I have conveniently forgotten!!

As I said before, dosing of the antifreeze correctly is very, very important..... depending upon your climate and the lowest temperatures to be expected in winter!!

Which is the reason for the temperature table on most quality bottles of antifreeze. If it was not needed, why would they print it? Just for fun?

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#27
In reply to #23

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 8:07 AM

How did this turn into an argument? In my last post I said the mix is important.....did you miss it?

A person reading your posts would think that the only time antifreeze should be used is in freezing temperatures. Call me crazy, but I don't agree with that one. Antifreeze also contains rust inhibitors and lubricants. Rust and corrosion will definitely affect the cooling system's ability to cool.

Here is a Mitsubishi service manual. It calls for a 50/50 mix........when in doubt,the factory recommendation is always a good idea.

Now that I've been poking around on this subject, I want to try some of this stuff. It gets high marks across the board on every site I've seen it mentioned.

http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10

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#30
In reply to #27

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 12:15 PM

This blog is about an overheating problem, a too strong a mix of antifreeze will actually make the problem worse, that was the point I was trying to make.

I find that to be fully "on topic" personally.

You were recommending a mix that is probably far to "strong" for the Philippines(?) wasn't it? generally a warm climate anyway, I was just explaining why the recommendation was not a good idea......take it or leave it!!!

Also, antifreeze has a further "Talent" that we should not forget, it finds tiny holes that water cannot get through alone, and dribbles out........water alone needs relatively large holes, though please don't ask me exactly how big!

Naturally temperature and pressure play a role as well.....so it also gives warning of a possible problem in the future....

Thats why one should fill for the minimum minus temperatures and not just blindly follow advice that is maybe only correct for a particular climate. I set mine for -30°C, but that happens rarely, last year we only got down to -27°C...but close enough!!

There used to be an additive for people to allow them to remove the antifreeze for the summer, but still stop electrolytic erosion.....I have not used it or searched for it in 40 years or more.

For a tropical country, that wouild be sufficient for the whole year round and it would help to cool better...

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#31
In reply to #30

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 1:34 PM

I just reread all of my posts and can't find the one where I recommended way to strong of a mix. I stressed that the mix is important.

I understand your point also, but you're reading things into my posts that aren't there.

recommended 50-50 mixture

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#37
In reply to #31

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 4:55 AM

A 50-50 Mix is probably too strong for the Philippines (unless possibly high in the mountains!). Thats a good general mix for Europe, and probably some parts of North America. It should give a temperature range down to −34 °F (−37 °C)...

I looked on Wiki and found that the average yearly temperature there is around 26.6°C (79.88°F) Its as good as never ever down even to freezing point!

Someone in a country where frosts are unheard of should just use the corrosion inhibitor and not use antifreeze at all.....it should also be cheaper....but you never know!

I did some research today and came up with two interesting weblinks, one recommends replacement after two years as it gets corrosive eventually! Which may or may not be true depending upon the actual chemical(s) used. Something new for me......not that I usually keep cars for very long till my last one.....so I probably need to replace the antifreeze this year.....

Look here:-

http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14264/css/14264_226.htm

and here:-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze

You also said- "Antifreeze actually does raise the boiling point of water and protects against overheating", which it does in some cases, but depending upon the mixture of, or the chemical type might be true or might not......some people here may take it that running it pure would be a good idea, but might pick the wrong mix for that!!

Also, part of the anti-corrosion chemical is highly poisonous and the old stuff needs to be properly disposed of in some manner....I knew it wasn't for drinking, but I did not know just how dangerous it really is!!

The second link is really good one, particularly about all the various different chemicals and their good and bad points respectively. I learnt a lot!!

I guess I don't like "throw-away-comments" without them being properly qualified in some manner. In the case of antifreeze, that could be quite dangerous to people and the engine, because different chemicals are used by different companies for different reasons....!!

I wish you a great day.....

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#39
In reply to #37

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 5:43 AM

Hey Andy,

When I made the comment in post #2 about protecting from over heating, I wasn't thinking heat transfer, I was pretty much just quoting from every ad and label that I've seen on antifreeze........and I learned some things too. I wasn't aware that the heat transfer properties of antifreeze were less efficient than water.

I think a 50/50 mix may be too strong for there also. That was part of a sentence that I thought I had deleted. I would never recommend for anyone to deviate from the manufacturers specs on anything.

Well, I think we both made some valid points in an effort to help the OP, and we got to learn something too. That's what it's all about.

Have a good one!

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#40
In reply to #39

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 5:54 AM

I love the little bit of "duelling" you and I have.....it makes my day and I get to learn new stuff! There are many of us here doing much the same thing......

I hate a day when I have learnt nothing new, it seems to be such a waste!!! This was for me a very interesting blog in all respects.....

Stay fit and well and "Duel" back please, just as you have done in the past!!!!

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#41
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Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 6:45 AM

I wouldn't have it any other way.

I've actually been wanting to read up on these new antifreeze formulas. When I was growing up it was all bright green. Now there is yellow, pink, and who knows what else. There are no adequate warnings on the labels and people are mixing them or topping off with different colors. This apparently causes corrosion, big time!

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#44
In reply to #27

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 3:48 PM

Race engines generate a lot of heat and coolant systems are designed to handle that with larger radiators and flow resrtictors. But, in some race categories, like street stock, sedan, etc., only stock colling systems are allowed. Because of the "greasiness" of glycol antifreeze and the effect they would have on a racing surface, they are not allowed. Instead, only chemicals that reduce surface tension and are formulated to enhance heat transfer are allowed in these race cars. One of those is described in your above link. If overheating is a problem and the proper mix of antifreeze and/or heat transfer enhancing additive, as well as the presence of the proper range thermostat, does not suffice, there is probably a build-up of precipitated rust/scale in the water jacket of the engine block which causes hot spots around some cylinders. The temperatures seen in these local areas can greatly exceed the adjusted boiling point of the cooling fluid and boiling will occur at those areas. As soon as the outgassing due to boiling begins, it's all downhill from there.

If nothing you have tried seems to work, knock out a freeze plug at the back of the engine block (I've usually found the right side (passenger) to have most of the build-up) and check if it is packed with rusty gunk. Dig/flush it out and remove the next plugs until the water jacket is free of sediment. Always use a minimum of 25% antifreeze(more depending on expected lowest temperatures) to inhibit corrosion.

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#45
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Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 4:32 PM

Thanks Jag,

I've got an old GMC truck with a big 454 engine. Rust is always a problem with that cast iron block. I've had a small leak at the water pump that I've been ignoring for about 2 years, (besides topping up coolant). This thread has given me the impetus to go fix it.

With my newfound knowledge, I want to clean it all out, try that water wetter, and find the sweet spot for my coolant. I don't have rust to those levels. I blow everything out, including heater core about once a year. Do you know of anything that I can flush it with that'll get her nice and clean?

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#46
In reply to #45

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 5:04 PM

Just dump a can of Aluma-Seal (not an endorsement, but it works) in and forget the leaks.

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#48
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Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 7:50 PM

I'll check it out. I'm not real big on quick fixes though. I know what really needs to happen is to pull the radiator, pull the water pump, regasket.............you know the drill. I've had that engine apart and back together. Under the hood looks the way it did when it came off the lot new in 86......runs that way too. I wish I could slow down her thirst for gas though.

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#49
In reply to #48

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 8:04 PM

Install a vacuum gauge and pay attention to it. Good for maybe 10%. You'll be surprised how much more foot you have in the throttle than is required to maintain speed, especially going up grades. I had a "73 Dodge 3/4T with a 400CID truck motor with a full camper. Got between 8 and 10 mpg highway but never ran out of power. Got it up to 90 once. Only once.

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#54
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Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/18/2011 6:14 AM

I don't use it that much anymore. Just to tow my boat if I need to or haul equipment to a job. I'm easy on the gas pedal. One thing I did that helped a lot was installed an aftermarket electronic ignition about 6 years ago, (Crane Fireball). It really liked that. I was going through those foreign made ignition modules on a regular basis.

If I'm easy on it, I can squeeze out about 14 mpg.

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#47
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Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 7:48 PM

Oxalic acid. I used to get it as a powder but this was years ago. You will have to check compatibility. It might tear up aluminum parts. When I used it, everything was cast iron, brass and rubber. Since then, I've learned to monitor the coolant and as soon as it tested weak or got the slightest bit off it's normal color, I would flush the system with a standard heavy duty flush (P) per instructions and using their flush kit (heater hose connection and radiator spout), and repeat heat cycling and flushing till I could drink the outflow (well, when it stopped tasting like antifreeze. Please, no remarks, you do it too). Then drain as much water as possible, leaning on the bumper to get out the last drop I could, and pouring as much antifreeze (none of that premixed stuff, I'll add my own water thank you) in as possible AFTER changing the thermostat. Since I start with a clean system, I might go three or four years or more between changes and I don't want to waste a load of antifreeze because of a failed thermostat. I also replace the radiator cap. Any left over antifreeze, from the two gallons I start with, first goes into a MARKED 1 liter soft drink bottle and into the trunk. The rest into the overflow reservoir and fill full with water. When I check it a couple of days later, as the air voids in the system vent, it will bring the reservoir level down to the full mark and the protection to about -25F to -30F. (the volume of your coolant system may vary) Even though we rarely see temps down to 0F, you must understand that if the temp is, say, 10F and snowing and the engine is still cold and you are traveling at 35mph, the coolant will be somewhat colder than 10F until warm coolant circulates. You don't even want a slushy mixture to form in the delecate radiator tubes. It can restrict flow and if it freezes, expands and bursts the tube, it will be a cold miserable day.

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#52
In reply to #45

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 10:47 PM

Many years ago on a Seagrave truck engine I used industrial descaler--which is an inhibited hydrochloric acid. Also had all the core (freeze) plugs out and scraped the cooling jacket as best I could with bent hanger wires and anything else I could find. I controlled the liquid level with a liquid filled tube. Tedious, but I think I added about a gallon to the cooling system capacity (10 gallon system.) Several years ago the auto restoration magazine Skinned Knuckles had an article on how to inhibit hydrochloric (muriatic) acid; I used stuff that was sold for use in industrial air conditioning systems.

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#53
In reply to #52

Re: overheating at 120 kph

02/18/2011 6:04 AM

Thanks Lehman, I'll look into that. I'm also wondering about CLR or something similar.

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#3

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 9:41 AM

Slow down. Are you trying to kill someone?

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#4

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 11:43 AM

Did you have the ignition timing checked to see if its running way off from where its supposed to be?

Depending on what type of fan clutch it has that could be dad also. If you can find one try replacing it with a direct drive one and see if the overheating problem goes away.

So whats wrong with 120 KPH? Thats only 75 MPH which is the posted interstate speed here? I don't consider a vehicle to be worth crap, or owning, if it cant do that speed while pushing a strong head wind and pulling a trailer of at least half its own weight as well.

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#6

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 10:39 PM

Try this site www.delicaclub.com all things delica are on this site and the workshop will have the answer your looking for. just one thing more to check, how easily does the vehicle roll? if the front diff is dragging you have to push harder to maintain speed, many owners change the front to freewheeling hubs to overcome this.

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#9

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 11:08 PM

120Kph is not that fast!

Do you need to press the accelerator pedal further than you used to?

A lean mixture, i.e. not enough fuel going in, will run hot.

Are your spark plugs the correct type?

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#11

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 11:16 PM

Is there a smell of coolant when you lift the hood? Are you using coolant or just water in the system? Has anyone done a pressure test of the system to see if there are any leaks? Has the rad cap been tested to see if it is holding pressure? Has the belt to the water pump been checked to see if it is slipping? When the head was off, did anyone check the water passages to make sure they were clear? Was the head gasket put on properly and do you know if it can be reversed without causing a problem. New silicone or not, is the fan clutch locking up the way it is supposed to? Is the fan belt at the proper tension and is it new enough that it won't slip? You didn't say if these checks had been done. Any one of these items can cause an overheating issue including the water pump impeller slipping on its shaft or the impeller being worn enough to just not move enough water.

Do the simple inexpensive checks first and once you know for sure what isn't the problem you are half way to finding what is.

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#12

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 11:39 PM

Oh, please. Look at all the "Big brothers" being so self rightous, saying "don't speed, you should not bla, bla, bla. Did it ever occur that he might need that speed in an emergency? Is it any of our business? He asked about helping with his overheating peoblem, he didn't say he drove that fast withkids in the car....

Now, about that problem, does it cool back down after you slow down again? Have you checked to see if the serpentine belt is routed correctly? I had an Eclipse once, took it in for a new timing belt at the prescribed mileage, when they gave it back, it over heated at speeds greater than 80mph. Turned out to be the water pump was running backwards. it still cooled ok at slow speeds, but if I turned on the A/C, it would overheat. if I went fast, it overheated. Took them three weeks to figure it out. it was simply a matter of routing the belt correctly. They had installed the wrong belt, and had it routed wrong too. Also, having the wrong head gasket installed can make this happen. the steam holes have to line up to match the block and heads.

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#21
In reply to #12

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 6:06 AM

It does not matter what the emergency is, without a legal blue light and siren (both switched on!), nobody is allowed in any "normal" country to drive faster than the posted speed limit.

Many do not know this. many NEVER ever understand this.

Jumping down the throats of "Big Brothers" is not friendly or good manners, they are right!!!

Maybe God is causing the car to overheat to save someones life!!!

Many of these people produce accidents that they are then held responsible for, in spite of an emergency - baby coming etc...

The only other legal way to exceed the limit is to follow a police car who has the blue lights and siren switched on.

There is an old, but true saying:-

"More haste, less speed!"

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#13

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/15/2011 11:44 PM

Many replies with good things to check.

One mentioned the thermostat. Put it back in! With the thermostat out, the coolant flow may be so fast there is cavitation in the block and thus inadequate heat transfer. At 120 kph it shouldn't matter what the fan is doing--there should be enough ram air going thru the radiator.

Another thought just popped up. Does "overheat" mean the coolant is boiling, or that the temperature gage reads too high? Pressurized coolant probably doesn't boil until about 250 degrees, but the gage can be wrong. I had a Chevrolet like that; the gage indicated overheat, but the engine was fine. The gage was wrong and needed a resister added to the circuit.

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#14

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 12:49 AM

The problem you are experiencing is due to the radiator being undersized - even though it is a factory issue the amount of power which is directly proportional to heat output once you exceed 100km per hour,is near on double due to wind loads - RPM -Fuel consumption etc .

The only way you will overcome this is to increase the cooling capacity eg a bigger heavy duty radiator - also having the AC cooler in front of the main radiator is also a air heater as well as a restrictor so turn AC off .

SO EITHER INCREASE RAD SIZE - DRIVE SLOWER - TURN OFF AC.

rOB

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#15

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 2:59 AM

Have you checked that the coolant has been bled properly? Air trapped in the pipes can restrict the flow, not necessarily noticeable at low speeds but much more so at full tilt.

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#16

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 3:16 AM

I'm sorry to say, even though you mentioned the water pump is ok, this sounds very much like a water pump problem. I own an Audi A3 that drove fine at low speeds, no overheating, as soon as I put my foot down the temperature rose and the car overheated. It was due to a broken impellor in the pump, not completely broken but enough to reduce the water flow and hence over heat at higher loads.

Was the pump removed to check it was ok? An external visual inspection isn't enough to say it's ok.

The impellor could have a vane missing or as someone else said the impellor could be slipping on the shaft.

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#17

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 3:37 AM

You are only looking for a circulation of water or air problem 0. Coolant is full? 1. The fan clutch MUST engage (lockup) for the cooling to be effective. How do you know the fan-clutch is engaging? (my prime candidate) 2. water pump recirculating? 3. checking radiator veins. Are they well open or clogged with sediment?

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#18

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 5:10 AM

You said you replaced the silicon oil inthe fan hub. Was the oil thin like water or thick like the kids toy called slime?

should be thick.

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#20

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 5:59 AM

One more thing in addition to post # 2. You said you replaced the head.

Did you do the torque sequence and torque properly, including cleaning out the bolt holes? Debris in the bolt holes can result in erroneous torque readings.

Look for water/steam around new head.......also water coming from tailpipe when it gets hot.

By removing the thermostat, you also may have warped your new head by allowing cool water to circulate through the engine without coming up to the specified temperature. My thermostat keeps my coolant at around 190° F, I know it's not that warm there.

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#24

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 7:11 AM

I assume you have checked all items my esteemed colleagues have suggested one last thing is to check for a restricted exhaust. Easily done by loosening the manifold to exhaust pipe and let it hang loose about 10 CM and take it for a run. Make sure the leaking exhaust cannot burn anything. If it runs cooler follow through the entire exhaust system. I have seen this a few times cause over heating at highway speeds.

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#28

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 9:21 AM

Make sure that the intake hose to the water pump has an internal wire coil. At high RPM the pump can create enough suction to cause the hose to collapse, shutting off all coolant flow.

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#32

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 1:59 PM

Overheating at 120 kph

If you remove the thermostat hot water or cooling fluid will by-pass the radiator and it could be the cause of over heating. Please check if this is the case.

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#33
In reply to #32

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 2:13 PM

Is this unique to this vehicle? I always thought thermostats were a thermally controlled restrictor, not a diverter. With thermostat removed, the water spends less time in the radiator, thus it can't lose it's heat to the surrounding air.

But, what do I know?

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#36

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/16/2011 2:53 PM

I should have made this reply to the forum thread.

You can ignore the fan, it is designed to operate at low speeds when the vehicle is not moving fast enough to generate enough airflow. At highway speeds the fan normally dis-engages, because there is already enough airflow. Just make sure the airflow is not blocked, i.e.; damage to the grill, improperly installed car bra, brush bumper, etc.

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#38
In reply to #36

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 5:37 AM

I live in warm/hot climate and i have unfortunately discovered on more than one vehicle that the thermatic fan is the fault. Back in the day i regularly drove at 140 k/h and it was at this speed that the radiator needed the fan. I know this because i replaced the thermatic fan with a fixed one to keep it cool. I used to drive with the heater fan on full blast to keep the temp. down. It was this 'test' that proved the fan was at fault.

To the O.P.;- try the heater fan on full. If it cools the radiator down it's a good bet the thermatic fan is at fault. If not, look at timing, exhaust blockage etc. as per other posts.

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#42
In reply to #38

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 9:14 AM

The only time I've ever had to run the heater to cool the engine, regardless of speed, has been when there has been a problem with the cooling system or airflow (it wasn't the fan).

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#43

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 10:39 AM

Probably I did not make my point clear enough to all of you. At the thermostat housing there is a line (connection) that bings hot water from the engine and it is controlled by the themostat to regulate the proper engine temperature. The thermostat provides a restriction to flow at this point allowing to flow the necessary amount of water to regulate the system temperature. If you remove the thermostat, hot water flow is wide opened without control. As a first step to solve overheating at 120kph is to put back in place a good thermostat or plug or restrict the hot water line.

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#50

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 9:31 PM

Check the temp sensor.

Any calcium in the coolant mix will either precipate or build up on the waterjacket....which opens another can of worms and that being ionization.

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#51
In reply to #50

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/17/2011 9:38 PM

Where have you been???????

I've wondered what happened to you. Don't be such a stranger. We need all the good guys we can get here.

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#55
In reply to #51

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/18/2011 7:36 AM

Yo........Canada has some lovely internet free zones......presently am in one just s of the Alaska/BC border. Surveying potential damn/run of river hydro sites. (good fishing here).

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#56

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/18/2011 12:25 PM

Here is a helpful link, it explains how the thermostat, fan and the bypass work.

http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/CoolingSystem.htm

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#57
In reply to #56

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/19/2011 7:53 PM

I have just read the article and found it very comprehensive.

FYI in OZ we call freeze out plugs 'core plugs' for obvious reasons. I guess in cold parts of the world the serendipitous function of frozen water release takes on a greater significance.

What was the "air flow problem" you alluded to earlier?

regards

Jim

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#58
In reply to #57

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/22/2011 11:12 AM

Anything that may disrupt the airflow to the radiator, including a buildup of bugs or leaves on the face of the radiator.

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#59
In reply to #58

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/24/2011 4:32 AM

No more boiling at 165 km/h :} thank u guys :)

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#60
In reply to #59

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/24/2011 8:11 AM

Please tell us what did you do to solve overheating.

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#62
In reply to #60

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/24/2011 7:34 PM

I put 3 liters of prestone longlife coolant concentrate antiboil/antirust and 3 liters of wilkins distilled drinking water to the radiator :)

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#61
In reply to #59

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/24/2011 8:23 AM

What was the final fix?

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#64
In reply to #61

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

02/24/2011 8:40 PM

radiator coolant :)

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#65

Re: Overheating at 120 kph

03/11/2012 9:37 PM

How do you know it's overheating ? Does the gauge tell you so or is there the smell , boiling etc ? Try testing the temp' sender unit . They can sometimes get a little sensitive after an initial over-heat and send incorrect info to the gauge . Also test for obstructions within the cooling system . Most importantly , don't take dumb comments seriously . Hahah ! KPH ? Dear of dear .

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