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Miniature Lamp Resistance

02/24/2011 9:45 AM

i'm overhauling a pachinko machine [a japanese pin ball machine]. the lamps are unmarked and there's no readable shedmatics. they light on 9V, but i need to buy replacements bulbs. can i use the resistance of an original bulb to determine the correct voltage?

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#1

Re: Miniature Lamp Resistance

02/24/2011 9:58 AM
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#2
In reply to #1

Re: Miniature Lamp Resistance

02/24/2011 10:14 AM

damn, you're good! thanks

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#3

Re: Miniature Lamp Resistance

02/24/2011 10:23 AM

If the lamps are wired in parallel, they'd all use 9 volts. If they're wired in series (unlikely but possible), divide the 9 volts by the number of lamps in the series to get the voltage drop per lamp. Either way, however, you also want to get lamps designed for the same wattage, so just saying 9 Volts, or whatever, is probably not enough.

If you still aren't sure of the voltage, take a working lamp and try to drive it with a 9 volt battery. If it lights up properly, it's a 9 V lamp. If it's super-bright or flashes and burns out like a camera flashbulb, it was rated for far less than 9 V.

You might find the lamp code printed on the base of the lamp.

You can try reading the resistance. Since P = V2/R, then R = V2/P, so if the lamps are 9V lamps rated at 10 Watts (for example), the resistance would be 8.1 ohms. You can try this to determine the wattage, but the resistance will increase over time (and the actual wattage and brightness will drop).

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#4

Re: Miniature Lamp Resistance

02/24/2011 10:33 AM

You cannot really tell the designed operating voltage of a filament light by a low current measurement of it's resistance with an ohm meter. When your bulb is operating at 9V a reading of current will be the most useful test to identify replacement bulbs. The resistance of a light bulb changes with the filament's temperature. Most filament light bulb I/V curves, even the link I provided, overlook that it is actually the filament temperature and not the voltage across the filament that changes this resistance. This is why an incandescent bulb most often fails when power is turned ON. While the filament is at room temperature the resistance is very low but as the filament warms and starts to glow the resistance dramatically increases. A switch closure to full voltage then initially pumps a lot of current into the filament until it heats up. During this rapid heat up is the most common time for filament failures. With this in mind, you may find that there is a resistor in series with the light bulbs that makes a more gradual turn on.

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#5

Re: Miniature Lamp Resistance

02/25/2011 8:54 AM

For a really longlife and a lower price, go for 12 volt lamps of the same physical size.....the wattage will be quite close if not perfect when in the same size glass envelope.....

Using a slightly higher voltage will really help if when played, the machines are vibrated, even slightly....thats not good for full brightness filaments....

Its possible that some indicator bulbs bases can be bought nowadays with LEDs inside........but I have no idea which, sorry.....they are more resistant to vibration.

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#6

Re: Miniature Lamp Resistance

02/25/2011 11:09 AM

I would forget the bulbs ad switch to LED's They cost less, do not burn out and use far less power to operate.

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#7
In reply to #6

Re: Miniature Lamp Resistance

02/25/2011 11:47 AM

Likely all are true, however there are several critical concerns the OP should consider before going with switching to LED lighting. It is not likely an LED will work with the existing power supply hardware. This will therefore require additional circuitry between LED and the power supply. To be honest, not a lot of circuitry or complicated circuitry but additional circuitry all the same. Since this is an "overhaul", there maybe value lost by not restoring with original equivalent components.

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Anonymous Poster
#8

Re: Miniature Lamp Resistance

02/25/2011 12:44 PM

I had an older pachinco machind that used a 6 volt dry cell lamp battery

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