Install of Fan/Light/Heat in Bathroom

Wild guess - a pilot light output? I don't have a clue but a single output that would turn on an indicator lamp if anything is on seems like a good thing to have. The word "active" would seem to fit this.

I repeat, this is only a guess.

Did the instructions include a circuit diagram? Maybe the switch will need to be changed also.

yes it does come with a circuit diagram - But i don't know how it is currently wired up - and i don't want to be ripping out the wiring if i don't have to.

Does the unit work if the terminal is not connected to anything? If so, just leave it unused.

Electrickery is totally not my field of expertise, so welcome to disregard as I'm likely talking rubbish. But it might be a relay connection for a timer. So the fan/heat lights/etc shut down (ie after a period of 30 minutes). As the heat lamps are relatively expensive comsumers of energy, this is useful to keep the costs minimised.

Because this is not a professional site. You will notice that most of these answers are professionally incorrect. The only professional answer is: "If you can't figure it out from the wiring diagram, the existing wiring, and/or a call to the manufacturer, hire an electrician."

However, it is worth warning against connecting the "active" terminal to ground. In Australia "active" is what we call "live" or "hot" in the US. So, if the unit has a pull switch for the fan, (but the fan is wired to a wall switch) then, when the pull switch is pulled, there would be a direct short, if the wall switch is set to "on". This diagram, typical for these units, shows what would happen under this condition.

This wiring diagram shows a switch that operates the fan motor. I suspect that there is an internal thermostat to keep the fan running until the temperature drops to a safe level. If so, it should be connected to a constant feed.

Check for a junction box in the roof you will probably find that in the box the Active is junctioned and run straight down to the switches then looped to each individual switch, the neutral and earth will then go straight to the fittings and your active then comes back up via each switch to each labeled connection. The connection marked active in your new unit sounds like it is a terminal supplied to junction your active before going down to your switches and coming back into the active side of your light/heater/fan.

Grochy - I think your on the money - So do I need to connect the active connection on the unit to anything? Someone suggested to connect the Active to Ground on the unit. I just want to check.

Grochy is correct. If your old unit is connected only to the wires from the switch ignore completely the active connection as a live feed to the switch plate will already be there. It is just kindly placed there by by the manufacturer as a terminal to connect a live wire in the roof space to a single core feeder wire for the switch plate, thus saving throwing away 1.5m of earth and neutral conductors that are alongside the active in a three core flex.

Be safe.

Jim

Daffy DO NOT connect the active to earth under any circumstances. I'm a qualified elecrrician just so you know I do understand electricity. I would suggest the active connection is designed to allow you to connect feeds running through the roof to a switch wire to go to the wall switch but without more detail I cannot say with 100% certainty. How many cables are at the old unit? Are there more than what is connected to the old fitting?

Obviously I'd be negligent if I didn't say put the fitting down, back away carefully and call your local friendly licensed electrician.

Red to Red.. Green to Green and blew to bits!! STOP what you are doing..go find the Yellow pages and get help.

As much as everyone here will offer advice... some of it will be on target, some of it will be off target.. I think everyone will agree that without seeing what you have, the guesses will be like you, using your bathroom without the light working.. "a shot in the dark"!

Daffy - from your posting - and the other postings - recommend you get yourself an electrician.

BUT note as stated by another poster 'active' is the live input. My guess (note the word guess) is the active connection is the distribution point to the switches.

Rule one: Electricity and guesses don't mix

Thanks K FRY and GROCHY.....your responses were the most helpful. The Active connection on the unit is/was just that - a connection point. So I did not need to feed an extra active line to it. Nor did I have to change any roof/wall wiring. All is well and the project is completed. Thanks to all who responded. Many minds help heaps. Much appreciated.