Generator-High Temperature

One thing I can think of is if the radiator located so that air recirculates to it, getting ever warmer. Another would be decreased air cooling capacity at high altitude.

What is the break in period on it?

It may be time to change the oil and filter. After 1000 hrs of use from new, tiny metal particles may be impeding oil flow through the filter.

What the temperature setting for the thermostat? Maybe a lower temperature themostat.

what about the fan and fan clutch? If the engine is running properly and the radiator is good there isn't too much left that it can be!

as per above answer , check if there is fresh air coming in to the generator space or is it pulling warm air into the radiator from the enclosure, causing elevating temperatures ?

is it inside a room or enclosure ?

is it underground in a hot environment ?

what altitude and ambient temp ?

There have already been a number of good responses, but one thing that has not been mentioned yet. Where are you located? What is the normal ambient temperature? Someone else has asked about altitude, and another about the air flow configuration. Where was the Perkins engine manufactured? There can be significant performance differences between Perkins engines manufactured in, say, Peru, as opposed to those manufactured in England...

What is the amb temperature and altitude?.

Oil level? (its worth asking . . .)

Few little points.

Anti freeze, it is there to dissipate heat and help cooling the engine.

Make sure it is at the tight consetration.

Perking engines manufactured in England running temperatures are between 88 - 112 (at the engine) where era you testing your temp.

I like mine to run at 104

The higher the temp the les Wear and tear on the engine

good luck

Yami Proffesor

Using an accurate thermocouple and instrument, check the actual fluid temp. Gauges sometimes read incorrectly. If all is well, and still over heating, remove the engine thermostat and run again, see if the unit still over heats. If so, remove radiator and have professionally serviced by radiator shop. While radiator is off remove the water pump and inspect or replace. If nothing is found with the radiator at the shop and pump is ok! Issue is internal to engine, i.e. blown head gasket or cracked cylinder sleeve.

Good Luck

Since the problem has not been there previously, i would not look for the problem in ambient temperature or altitude yet. You need to clean your radiator first lest you suffer the embarrasment of calling an expert to do that for you.

Was there a increase in load percentage recently, like you added some new equipment? Or worse you added some new equipment/ building in the generator's cooling path.

This may really not even be a real problem....Have you verified the actual tempratures with a non-contact IR thermometer or simular setup? Guages can become inacurate and give false indications.

related to overheating problem 01) check fan belt tension if it is radiator cooled engine 02) if it is heatexchanger check jocky pump and waterflow 03) checked radiator top tank for sludge and rust 04) check engine water pump and impplear for pitting if required replace it 05) checked ventillation fresh air entry 06) check for hot air re-circulation 07)check smoke level if it is black on load checked turbo charger. if turbo is ok futher check injector and fuel system 07) check any air in cooling system

what type of load generator is use constant load or block load what is load power factor generator ampers get varies on power factor. check for kilowath if it is 250kva 200Kw is full load.

One thing you may have not checked and verified, be sure that those rubber hoses are hard and not collapsing? There is a tendency for old radiator rubber hoses to soften up as they age and therefore will collapse restrict coolant flow. Check the pressure on your coolant while the engine is in operation.

Be sure to check the hoses when the enging is cold. Squeze the entire length of the hoses by hand. feel for soft spots or bulges. Hoses can seperate on the inside and restrict flow while the outside is still normal diameter.

Have you checked the condition of the coolant. Is the coolant, as we say here"Clean and Greeen" or is it murky? Even slightly murky coolant will build a film on the inside of the coolong tubes in the radiator and the surface of the coolant channels in the engime and reduce cooloing capacity over time. Even if it is not visible it may still be in the tubes. At 1000 hours of operation it is time to service the cooling system. This will include flushing the system with clean water, useng a good quality radiator flush chemical from your local parts house (follow instructions on container) and replacing the coolant with a 50/50% mix of new antifreeze.

What is the temp of the thermistat in the engine? Are you saying that normal is 97C and it is going above it, or ar you saying that it is reaching 97C and you are concerned about that.

Hi There,

Listed complication (as replied) that may the impact as what been highlighted. Its good to get the manual back on the table and check the manufacturer requirement/recommendations vs actual application that been applied.

As quick e.g. lubricant or gas/diesel/petrol manufacturer requirements/recommendations, some generators required low density (ppm) of lube and/or some require high, and some ok with high .ppm of gas/diesel /petrol, some require high quality.

Lab test should be carry to identify the density (.ppm) of lube or gas/diesel/petrol, normally; laboratory recommended 5 parameters in doing the test.

Dear Mr.Petros Tofari

Pl. check the impeller assembly of the coolant pump. If due to some reason, due to sheared key there is a possibility of slippage between impeller and shaft of the coolant pump.

Also ensure that there is NO SLIP in the belt driving the coolant pump PULLEY.

It is known that if the speed of the pump comes down means coolant circulation rate will fall and hence over-heating takes place.

Thanks,

rajeswari.