Possible Bad Alternator

Actually the internals of the solenoid are a connection

hey it's just a big relay after all, when the contacts get too oxidized, too much resistance

looks like the solenoid piggybacks on the starter

the way to check is to take a pair of pliers or a couple of screwdrivers & jump across the terminals on the solenoid & see if the starter turns faster

course the point is moot, as the starter has already been replaced

you may have even be able to replace just the solenoid

I tried. It was a no go. Complete unit only.

Which is fine. If I went that route, I'm sure it would have been the starter motor.

Now that I think about it, I think some Arizona paint over spray drifted all the way to NC and gummed everything up. At least I can tell my attorneys the general location of the parking garage that was being painted and caused it.

You'll need an attorney. He'll hire keverne to investigate the causes of the loss.

Man, I've never seen so many people whine because I wouldn't blindly follow the "expert advice" given to me by total strangers.

You should have waited a day, I'm sure one of those Arizona dust storms would have came up and sand blasted your starter for you and solve your problems. Yes, I know Lyn, that was in poor taste, those dust storms are no joke! I have friends in AZ, and have been stuck in them, it's just I couldn't resist and pass that one up.

I've taken a ford external solenoid & a short battery cable to do a permanent bypass on a peugot with a solenoid piggybacked on the starter, where the starter was gonna be expensive & 2 weeks away

many times the solution to a technical problem is dependent on the materials available, timeframe & budget

Form follows function. One of the solutions to starter failures on motor homes with big block Chevy motors was to add a remote starter solenoid (Ford) to lower the heat problems that the vehicles were experiencing.

A K A- Necessity is the mother of invention.

I have a big block V8 in my GMC truck. The little ignition module that sits in the bottom of the distributor kept going out. I assume because of heat. I couldn't find one that would last.

Finally ended up ripping it out and installing a Crane ignition system. Problem solved!

MSD makes a neat ignition conversion for the large distributer cap GM ignition systems. You use the original GM pick up, leading to a remote MSD unit, then running to a remote ignition coil ( better spark above 4000) then back to an adaptor that brings the high voltage into the distributor and sends it to the rotor, and then to the plug wires as original. The one I had outlived the car. I sprung for the adjustable timing control. It allows up to 15 degrees of retard. By setting the initial timing 7.5 degrees advanced from normal, you end up with 7.5 degrees of advance or retard from what was the original setting. Great for squeezing mileage on a trip. Just hold the throttle steady, and move the timing knob located within easy reach and watch the speedometer. If speed goes up do it again. If it goes down, go in the other direction. When speed will not increase, you are right where you want to be.

It was a tough call between Crane and MSD. I forget now what little piece of information pushed me into Crane.

I have the timing control on my dash too. Pretty cool!!!

I put the Crane in about 5-6 years ago, along with a high performance cap, plugs and wires. Haven't touched it since. It still loves gas though. If I'm real gentle, I can squeak about 13 MPG out of her. It's a 454.

The good news is, my neighbor got a new Chevy truck a few years ago. It has the V8 Vortec I think. Big block. Mine is an 86, and our gas mileage is about the same. Go figure.

If Necessity is the mother, Lazy is the father.

GM came out with a service bulletin in 1978 on the HEI ignition systems, requiring using only White Delco rotor caps and change the rotor cap at every tune up. Any other rotor cap couldn't handle the high voltage. They would burn thru the center of the rotor and ground out on the inter-shaft,(for the mechanical advance). It would not only take out the ignition module, it would also weld the distributor's inter-shaft to the bushings! I made a ton of money taking those distributors apart and polishing the inter-shafts and reselling them. Never had a come back with them

Those engines get hot. My problem was strictly with the module. It would get hot and cut out..................after it cooled off, it would be fine again. Pain in the a$$.

In addition to the Crane ignition, I went with Accel high performance HEI cap and wires. Everything works awesomely. If something works great..........I'll plug it.

Nice idea to generate money!

I don't know how many Chevy engines I seen where someone removed the heat shield from the starter! Which they also suffered a higher than normal stater failures.

I didn't read the ENTIRE thread to see, but if it hasn't been mentioned, pulling either battery cable off while running is a hugely bad idea.

At the very least, the transient you put on the system was likely to damage or fry the diode pack or the regulator, and at worst you can damage the ECU and every other electronic device attached to the vehicles power.

apparently you haven't read any of the posts

I read about a dozen of them.....and none warned of the very real and very serious risks to doing it. I had post #97 after all.

Thats why I stated I didn't read the entire thread at the begining of the post.

Don"t let this happen again. If caught a second time, you will be required to read the entire bath breaking thread aloud.

sdrawkcab, to boot.

sdrawkcab ???????????????

...........Not the 100 lashes with a soggy noodle punishment....

I wrote about it, see reply #9