Analog vs Digital Multimeters

I prefer digital speedometers.

No. I find that very seldom do I need (or want) the precision of a digital readout. I no longer own a digital wrist watch.

I agree with lyn, I too switched to an analog wrist watch.

I found I was more apprehensive when I was running a little late for appointments.

The digital readout was more 'precise' and psychologically made me feel I was really behind schedule when I may not actually be.

With the analog wristwatch I see I may be a little late but I know I will won't be by much.

Either way if I'm late, I'm late but I arrive with less apprehension and more relaxed about it.

A one for speeding and a zero for not?

Analog multimeter displays have multi-tiered, range number lines and a pivoting needle to indicate voltage, resistance and current. Digital multimeter displays give decimal readouts, which are about 0.5 percent plus 1 digit more accurate than analog readings. Besides greater precision, digital multimeters include more features and can measure capacitance, temperature and frequency. Analog multimeters still work well for most household purposes.

Prices for analog and digital multimeters vary greatly, with analog generally costing less than digital.

Generally speaking, I trust analog more. Call me old fashioned, but I trust a current and my eyes better than a digital readout. That doesn't make me right. Just analog.

Just because the display is digital does not mean the circutry behind it is not analog.

My first 'digital multimeter was given to me by my uncle many years ago. It had a pcb with a ton of analog components and included a series of seven segment LED displays and interlocked pushbuttons.

For some purposes, I'm analog retentive, too. Especially speedometers. Trying to read a rapid trend with digital is all but impossible. (There might also be a kind of left-brain/right-brain preference about this.)

Actually, read my post #8 about brain processing.

This scenario was discussed with a neurologist instructor back in my days as an early med student.

Analogue for me, not so much chance of "ghost" readings. But a DMM usually has more features. So at the end of the day it horses for courses.

Good point.

GA, I am very comfortable checking transistors, photo diode, photo transistor, LDR, Speakers, voltage of small batteries, Thermocouples, etc using analog meters than to DMM's. Due to low input impedance Analog meters "load" the device under test. This gives clue while repairing electronic cards/ PCBs.

Some analog voltmeters have 100 megohm input impedance. Granted some digitals have 10^10. You don't always high impedance. I got burned troubleshooting wiring problems in a car using a 10 megohm meter. A circuit that was highly resistive looked good. A light bulb was a better tool for that job.

Of coarse for accuracy you want digital. For a measurement with a lot of noise you want analog. It is much easier to read. I use analog null meters in my job. With a 1uV range, they have plenty of accuracy to get a null, and being battery operated, there is no chance of ground loops.

Why would the resistance of a filament that runs on ac be of any consequence?, impedance maybe...

a nice wiggy is very reliable for detecting voltage

the best tester is determined by the conditions & duty cycle

There are some analog voltmeters with a high input impediance (old VTVM).

Ironically, it takes a LOT of internal processing power to filter out harmonics in a digital meter, so the price tends to get really high if you are trying to work on things like inverters and VFDs. But analog meters, by virtue of their design, inherently act as a low pass filter and provide much more useful information in those applications, and for a LOT less money. But lets face it, there are a lot of wonderful things a DMM can do for you that an analog meter cannot.

Like PWSlack, I keep both. I prefer the old "bullet proof" Simpson 260 meters for my analog needs, it has never let me down.

My old friend of 30 years was stolen from me a few years ago, but I picked up one of these gems at a garage sale this year for $10! Works perfect. The seller felt he no longer needed it because he bought a Fluke 87. I didn't educate him on his folly, because I wanted that meter.

I feel shame...

And testing SCR's but the new Fluke meters with the "low Z" scale read close to what a 260 would with its low ohms per volts, and pack smaller. Since my first Fluke 12 I haven't carried a Simpson but will use one if the shop I'm at has one: nothing better for tracing relay logic BUT they (260 or Fluke w low Z) will fire a 2N2222 if you try and read the C to B voltage, can be handy if you do it for troubleshooting but for testing electronics the 87 type is best with the high ohms per volts.

Just gave you a GA for the regen inverter answer JRaef but anyone who RELAY only wants to be a lumber jack could use another one

Hi One & All,

I like the Simpson 250 which would not fire a you 2N2222. But when reading anything other than low frequencies (AC) you would get into problems unlike your Fluke. Plus, with the Simpson, you need to look straight at the needle to get an accurate reading plus its hard to get an accurate reading on OHMS at the high end. The Simpson meter you can read it from a distance where the TEST POINT is not near the adjustment. The last thing, the Fluke is more drop proof.

BEN

If you like the reading at a distance you got look at the Fluke 233, readout comes off, best thing since max/min IMHO, carry one always now with a fluke with low Z. The 233 comes in automotive and not flavors that are the same and cheaper than an 87. Sounding like a Fluke fan boy but that 233 is GREAT for work off the bench,

Selective Catalytic Reduction catalysts?

Why would you need a multimeter to test them?

Define the acronymns....

SCR is an electronic device or component and it stands for Silicon Controlled Rectifier.

I have both types of meters in my workbench drawers. In reality they all work as designed. Bottom line measurement success, will always be dependent on the user's familiarity on its applications, parameters being measured and how the results are interpreted.

Actually, i have my electronics guy put everything on a recording O Scope. It is easier for me to look at a graph of time vrs. input and get a better picture of what is going on.

Ron

I have 4 Fluke 87 type DMMs that I use the most. The digital DMMs with min/max, freq & diode check functions are very nice. But if I am looking at a signal that moves around a bit the Simpson or Tripplet Analog meters are the ones I reach for. Last year I picked up a IDEAL 61-768 clamp meter DMM that has a min/max, inrush & data hold that seems to work ok in most cases. I have tried some of the cheap DMM O'scopes & had problems with them. Hopefully the price of good DMM O'scopes will come down into my price range. The Fluke with the remote display looks very nice. With a remote display I could be checking something out in the engine compartment while sitting in the cockpit with the engine running.

Hi One & All,

When I was on a Ship, our shaft RPM meter was Digital and Analog. The analog part was an bar that ran around the top of the digital meter. It was very good is rough seas. I also had a DMM that had a bar for and analog reading but have not seen on in a long time.

BEN

Trust me on the Fluke 233, it's like a hot glue gun, you won't know how "really" useful it is until you start carrying it with you, the cockpit comfort troubleshooting is just the obvious. Has some range, outside a metal house a door has to be opened

http://www.hobbylab.us/
I know this sounds like a hobby system ,but we have used this on many analysis in our industry.
Ron

If you have a meter input that is constantly rapidly changing an analog meter is much much easier to see the mid-point of the reading whether volt, amp, speed, tach, flow, or pressure. Digital is great when the input is steady and normally the reading is more accurate.