Non-annoying multimeter

One simple word... Fluke!!

North of 60, is that written Inuit on Iqaluit's home page? Whatever you call it, that has got to be the coolest-looking 'alphabet' I've ever seen. Are you Inuit, perchance?

Beware no-name brands of questionable quality and/or unbelievably low price.

I brought a nice no-name brand meter for about $180 us. It died the second time I used it, the whole screen had to be replaced at a cost of about $120 (it was a big LCD screen). Once repaired, I kept it in a plastic bag in a protective case in a drawer for a year. Took it out and it was dead. On the plus side the case was designed to withstand drops on to concrete and baths in engine oil and it looked and felt fantastic. A pity about what was inside thou . I replaced it with a Wavetek which actually worked. Go with fluke if possible (especially if it is going to be used in a commercial or lab application). There are less expensive brands for the casual user and home hobbyist, and both the Fluke and other brands with automatic ranges also incorporate a button to allow manual range setting.

Oh, on a side note don't believe everything you read. Yes that cheap plastic meter that cost $10 has a 1000V range and the spec sheet also indicates this, but try and use some common sense people (ooh 0.25mm2 leads and a 10A current range protected by a glass cartridge fuse, lets just stick this puppy straight into nearest socket outlet right now ). Never forget, you get what you pay for and a tool is merely an extension of your own body, so buy quality and play safe.

I fully agree with your opinion. Branded Meters are somewhat costly but reliable & have the accessories according to Specs of meter & have wide variety of optional accessories to extend facillities.

But only professionals need it & can afford.

For Hoppyist & ocassional users they have a wide chioce from local stores for non-branded cheaper ones. Keep always in mind that accessories [Test Lead set] should be good in insulation & long enough [at least 1meter long].

Additional accessories such as Clips etc can be purchased separately.

Normally all DMMs have 10 M Ω I/P impedance & Test Sockets so arranged/placed that accessories like DC Shunts, Clamp-on AC/DC Current adoptor etc etc are directly plugged into them. Normally a range is specified for this purpose.

To purchase anything needs personal attention & a target of your budget.

Take care all the friends!!!!!

One of the things, perhaps in some instances the only thing, that separates the seemingly overpriced, "name" brand, so called "professional" instruments is the extra cost of qualifying them before sales/distribution. That is to say, every meter that comes off the production line will not necessarily yield the accuracy advertised for it unless stricly monitored throughout and following production. This means, generally, a higher rejection rate during mfr--which is recovered at the front door, and paid ultimately by the purchaser. To someone who cannot justify the price premium, or have someone else like and employer or customer pay it, equivalent, more moderately priced instruments can be had with a little effort--but not much more effort, if any, than trying to figure out what to select from, say, a fluke catalog. These, too, make accuracy ratings claims, but in the real world can deviate somewhat--you can't always tell the product by its packaging--what else is new? So, if important to have accuracy as claimed, then one strategy for purchasing a good, but not "flukish" meter is to be sure of the return policy--the unconditional warrantly--sometimes called "store" guarentee--during which the instrument can be exchanged, no questions asked. Then buy and try out the meter; check its accuracy; and, if you like it but the accuracy deviation is not to you liking, then take it back, exchange it, and repeat the accuracy check out process. That is the way, after two exchanges, I was able to own a quality instrument that exactly met its accuracy claim, and without breaking the budget.

Yes I fully aggree, but if you could get such a vendor who sells "BIG SHOTS' " items.
I don't think there may be any. And if you order the mail-order-suppliers the case may be worse as you may have seen the lable on MS SW Packings having a disclaimer "If you break this seal it is considered that you agree ... "
How in heaven you can assess rhe thing inside a packing without openening it & using it?
The customers are the Scape-goats.

We purchased from one of the "BIG SHOTS' lot of equipment. Bought an IC [main processor] from the local market, installed but no result. The item was catalogued by the "BIG SHOTS' in their cat. I inspected the IC & was astonished that the pins were FORMED Upside-Down. Re-FORMED & fitted. Worked OK. The local-maket price was 1/10 of the Vendors suggested price.

You never know what may happen. Pray for GOOD !!!!!

I agree: FLUKE. I have 4 or 5 different ones of theirs and they are all great multimeters. Very top quality tools. One of them I have will auto select. So I can go from having the probes checking DC volts and touch AC power and it auto switches. I really like that feature at the shop, no overload of the meter! Their demo page is at: http://us.fluke.com/usen/support/demos/default.htm

Amen, Fluke is the best as far as I'm concerned. At the company where I work, they replace our meters every five years. The old meters are sold to the highest bidder. I know the guys who bought my old meters and they tell me that the things are still alive and well.

I saw real proof of Fluke's durability while watching one of our technicians test the voltage of a 220VAC convenience outlet. He inserted the probes and the breaker quickly popped. I already knew what happened and thought he did too. However, he reset the breaker and inserted the probes again and POP, the breaker tripped again!

I told him to check his probes and he gasped when he saw that they were inserted in the current sockets instead of the voltage sockets. He was effectively shorting the outlet. The amazing thing was his meter still worked!

I took a short course from FLUKE on the proper way to use a multimeter, ... wow, I thought I knew how, but I learned how much I didn't know.

Be sure you get one rated for your most common use, if in question as to weather your multimeter is correct for what you are checking, don't.

As Vulcan pointed out above, the FLUKE people would be up in arms that the tech was crossing the circuit, they said to always go from the contact to ground, never, ever cross the circuit as to do so you risk energizing what you are checking with the multimeter. If your multimeter is not rated for the voltage and you complete the circuit, .... well, I've taken a tech or two to the hospital when that happened.

I would say its "horses for courses"....

You could buy a top of the range Fluke, but if you're going to be using it under the bonnet (hood) car applications where it may get dropped, kicked around or nicked, perhaps a look at some cheap ones would be best...

If a cheap and cheerful $10 multimeter from ebay goes missing or breaks you can just shrug your shoulders and buy a new one...

With a Fluke at $200+ its a different story!

However, if you wanted one for your workbench for professional use a Fluke is ideal, but that's not what you are looking for is it?

John.

A thought on cheap that I have personally learned (and sometimes forget I know better and buy something cheap and regret it).

I've worked on cars off and on for the past 45 years and have found that Fluke does make their automotive meters well enough that dropping them and getting kicked and even being backed over with a tire doesn't put them out of commission, they just keep on working.

That is why professionals who do work on cars buy Fluke products. You just have to buy it one time. And they work just as well for us non-professionals as they do for the professionals.

I have never regretted buying the best I could afford, but more than once have regretted buying "cheap" that looked like the same thing but turned out was a waste of money. I'm sure some people must have better luck than me with cheap items since they keep selling them.

Oh I agree Chevy... What I'm saying is that for only $10 someone who might only use a multimeter a few times a year, and then to just check the mains voltage, isn't going to need to spend $100s to do it, he can buy cheap and if he loses it or it gets run over, stolen etc... he can just get another one without the hole in the wallet syndrome...

Personally, I have a cheap multimeter, which works just fine, which I use for the outdoor jobs and DIY etc... For my professional bench work I use my Fluke / Tektronix or bench multimeters.

If and when I accidentally try to measure a car battery volts when its set to the amps setting I will just toss it in the bin and get another one.

Keep the professional gear for professional jobs etc...

John.

I have repaired ships for 17 years and never ownwed a fluke I find them over rated. I have used Major tech and top tronics. I have never had a meter blow up, have had to replace meters due to theft.

Know your meter and how o use it.

lecky

I go with pretty well everyone else - get a Fluke if you can stretch to it.

A good less expensive option is a Wavetek (cf. Jack, post #2). My 25XT has all the usual A (200μA to 10A, but with lead connection changing!), V (200mV to 1000Vdc/750Vac) & Ω ranges (all manually selected), and it also measures capacitance & frequency, and transistor hFE. You don't need to change connections between AC & DC. One drawback - it's very easy to blow the fuse on the low current ranges, as often I want to check something with a steady-state current down in the low mA ranges, but an inrush of well over the 100mA fuse rating. Solution is to short out the meter 'til the inrush is over. Cost was about £80 (that's UKL).

BTW changing lead connections for current measurement isn't a bad idea - accidentally switching to a current range while checking the volts on a big capacitor can seriously damage your fuses!

I have a Wavetek at work and a Fluke at home. The Fluke is wonderful but I paid $270.00. The Wavetek was about $70.00, paid for and chosen by my employer. The Wavetek does a fine job but you need to be sure that you get a model with an "Auto-Off" option. My Wavetek model does not have "Auto-Off" and if it is jostled a bit in my tool bag and the "On" button is bumped it will turn on and the next time I go to use it the battery is dead. Now that's IRRITATING.

I did have a Tektronix DMM916 for several years and it had an excellent warning system, if you select voltage and the probes were plugged into the current sockets the display indicated 'probe!' and the meter beeped...

If it was the other way round, you selected current and the probes were plugged into the voltage sockets, the display just flashed as its a safer condition.

The only problem with it was that if you used a different set of test leads the switching sometimes didn't work.

Also at almost £300 it wasn't cheap!

John.

Fluke, Tektronix, Wavetek all make great multimeters.

E,

Damn!....Still can't get used to the new (birdie) avatar!

You know, I've been kicking around the idea of doing my own artwork using POV-Ray. Maybe your post is the incentive I need to get into gear...

I have had Fluke and Wavetek Multimeters throughout the years and have no issue with their functionality and ruggedness (except for the Wavetek), however they seem to be prone to walk away and become other people's property (without paying me for that privilege) more than others. I do have an issue with the price. Sometimes the ruggedness and ability to deliver RMS accuracy is just not equal to the price.

I like Simpson for my bench and use Tektronix for the rest of my testing needs, but for the field, I have found that the upper echelon electronic meters at Radio Shack to work quite well and I have never had one stolen. I bought one 7 years ago after my 3rd Fluke was "borrowed" and it has been working well ever since. I bought one at Harbor Freight because it has a backlit screen. It has lasted 3 years. I am a traveling service tech so they get bounced around quite a bit.

As for those who have the probes in the wrong holes or have the wrong settings when you try high voltage with high dollar Fluke meters; Overkill is the word that comes to mind. The Flukes are good for people of all skill levels, so is a Stradivarius violin.

I'm sure there are other brands that would make you "happy".

I realize this discussion is a bit dated but...

Segfault,

I agree Fluke and the others are very good, but you'll pay a hefty $premium to get one... and might find it very hard to get all the features you need in one instrument.

Based on your uses, I'd recommend you check out Sears Craftsmans. In particular, the model 82026 (or its current equivalent). It's a very fine instrument, comes with a resilient plastic sleeve with slots to secure the probes, and accommodation for wall/overhead mounting/suspending, or easel standing on bench like a photo frame. Comes with banana type connectors, and the probes will accommodate insulated clip-on probes (purchased extra/aftermarket). Multiple range settings in each AC or DC function will give you the point setting you need. Fully fuse protected against overload. Large readout. Includes 1.5 and 9 volt battery tester, audible continuity test. And, best of all--especially for automotive--amperage capacity from micro (DC)/milli (AC) all the way up to 20 Amps--you won't have to resort to some round-about or derivative way (like measuring amps to ground) (or need accessory fixture) to measure higher amps such as in auto applications. Apart from owner manual, the training manual is also available at the same store...no sending off for anything--meter or manual. After searching long for something affordable but not junk, I found this one to be excellent and, compared to the Flukes (etal) one of the best around (and most all-purpose) for dollar spent for the kind of uses you intend. Send me a PM if interested and I could send a photo--as soon as my camera gets back from service. Hope this helps.

Dang, I never thought I'd get so many responses! Thanks!

I can justify the Fluke as a "self-gift," but it's probably overkill for my needs. The "black sheep" here is that my father has two 20+ year old Beckman meters which still work, but their LCD displays have blackened to the point that they're not useable. Either of them would work, and they measure AC and DC via the same input (my main gripe with the crappy new-school meter I tried). They are big and heavy but would work fine for my needs. If I can find a replacement LCD screen, I'd love to repair them and have a "retro" multimeter, otherwise, I'll probably treat myself to a Fluke or similar.

Would it be good enough just to twist a knob for AC or DC? Or for your point setting? Then you might want to check out the Craftsman listed above. Much more economical, under 50, for about the same as a fluke for well over 100; and no high amperage on the fluke. That is if you think 100+ might be overkill.

I can twist a knob for AC/DC... My gripe is that crap Commercial Electric meter I bought requires both twisting the knob and switching the positive input to another jack on the meter to switch from AC to DC.

All of the responses to your question are very good and offer enough information to make an intelligent choice. I wish you good luck in your endeavours.

I too like and own fluke meters. Also, if you may want to check out Craftmans meter. I got one for those for around $80 USD, and it works well enough for me in the home use.

MidniteFighter

Fluke & wavetek are both good stuff

I had my clampon replaced by my former employer w/a

http://www.metermantesttools.com/mmusen/products/category.htm?category=MMSDMM(Meterman

From Grainger.com

It's hit the ground a few times w/ no ill effects

when you leave the power on, turns itself off [ common ]

If you use it in sleep mode, turns itself back on [ not so common ]

like a fluke won't let all the smoke out if you, acidentally: check the Ω's of a wall socket [ hot ]

I make my living using electronic test equipment to test and repair medical equipment. I have two multimeters: a calibrated Fluke 87V and a Harbor Freight cheapie ($3). Cross-checking the two shows the cheapie is quite close enough to do most all common troubleshooting from household, automotive, to linear accelerators. If it gets busted, I get another cheapie. Avoid going over 480 VAC and it's OK for most else. A cheapie is 1000 times better than a tongue or a wet finger (joke) and far safer. For the times when precision under tough conditions and big money is riding on the reading, there is no equal to a Fluke.

I've owned a number of different DMMs, and if they worked well, it was a fluke. (just kidding)

Years ago when Fluke announced the successor to their hugely successful 8020A DMM (I'm really dating myself here), they explained in their ad the absence of the micro Siemens and nano Siemens conductance ranges: "The conductance ranges, particularly the nano Siemens range, had their shortcomings."

You can't help but like those folks.

Those harbor freight, 3-5 cheapies, are no good for any purpose--and certainly not for the applications suggested--at any price, even if, by random chance or grace of the gods, one gets one that reads accurately some of the time; that is to say: if you value your own time, and the increasingly costly gasoline in your fuel tank. At best, one might get a few uncertain readings before they simply fall apart (most invariably, the probes fall off) and the "meter" needs to be replaced (thrown away). For me, that made the actual cost of the first (and only) one about $13 (I saved 10 by not returning it) plus lost opportunity (increased cost to find a real multimeter).

Curiously, this is one product for which my admonishments "not to buy," to other about-to-be-taken's, inside the HF store, are always heeded--and the HF employees never raise objection, or disagree!

(Seen another way, this HF pretend/play-like item is sold cheap for the most part because HF does not want them to come back.)

Dear Guest--

I guess I'm just a lucky guy. The cheapies were so cheap I bought half a dozen, broke 2 and have 4 spotted in several tool bags and boxes. I wasn't looking for anything other than a fancy battery tester and "wiggy". I'm a happy customer.

Dav M

I agree with the guest poster as far as buying 3-5 cheapies if you don't know what to look for. But the 15 to 20 dollar ones I bought still work great. But...they aren't wheel chocks y'know!

I actually bought one of those "cheapies". It still works and the readings are the same as the Fluke up to 150 VAC, then it wanders off in the 10% high area. It was an emergency purchase for an automobile issue which is more like 13.5 VDC or nada. It does ok for me because I know how to use one, but it's not for someone who expects more accuracy from a meter than they know what to do with, and/or leaves them in the rain etc. If you don't have to record your readings to someone who knows what they should be and if you don't know what RMS is or you aren't sure which meter to get because of your lack of education of electronics and/or electricity, then price is your only object. Get the best you can afford. Just like Scotch!

Tektronix no longer makes DMMs, but plenty are available on eBay. You may wish to research which meter(s) you'll consider, then hit up eBay and Craigs List. If you find something good, it'll be a fluke. Er..Fluke.

My bad.

Hi guys.

I get calls from 'engineers' (fitters) from site who say...

'Your equipment doesnt work, my multimeter says I've got a 90v signal!'

Of course what they are measuring is some floating or leakage voltage which is at a high impedance. An old fashioned moving coil wouldn't read it (or certainly not as 90v)

It's a tricky job trying to explain this over the phone! (They've measured the 'signal' before wiring it into our opto isolated input circuit.)

Why don't meters have a lower impedance input which can be used for this?...or maybe they do on the expensive ones?

My home one is a cheapy and my work one is only a relatively cheap Beckman....(I tend to use a 'scope more).

Del--

You're in luck! Fluke just came out with a "Stray Voltage Adapter" in their TL225 Lead Kit or you buy a 10-pack of just the adapters (SV225/10PAK) Description from the catalog: "Adapter makes sure meter has low input impedence that eliminates stray voltage."

Dave Meador

It's a common problem for the inexperienced - DVM or 'scope. Look at the signal from one end of a few feet of floating wire, and panic can easily set in.

If I know it's OK to do, I'll find 100Ω or whatever's appropriate and a couple of croc clips, to find out what's really going on - but then I've been at it for 30-something years.

Amusing side story from 'way back. A couple of directors in a company I was with were looking at some noise (using a 'scope). They couldn't find the source anywhere. One said "maybe it's the 'scope" - and switched it off.

Just thought - maybe Heisenberg had something to say about this!

I recomend a fluke 337

I have had two Fluke meters DMM meaning Digital multi meters, not high and rugged too, very easy to use. Easy to find the meters just google it.

Balancer-man

Why two?

Stereo?

Always buy the best tools you can afford. I work at a calibration lab and we see everything under the sun in terms of multimeters. Fluke is a preferred choice and if you buy a basic model and scour the internet, some distributors have amazing sales from time to time. You could also buy a used one in good condition from Ebay and then have it calibrated to ensure it is within tolerance; calibration prices from a decent ISO 17025 lab for a basic handheld multimeter should be in the $30-50 range. Another note, offshore instruments of all types are often not within the tolerance stated by their manufacturer, even when new.

You can buy a basic Fluke for reasonable price. It won't have all the bells and whistles on it, but it will do all the basic measurments.

If you want to look at a decent inexpensive meter, try www.circuitspecialists.com

They have a few to look at. Their $25 meter will even handle a K thermocouple.