Turn Signals Not Working

There's a fuse block under the hood on the firewall, I hear.

Or,

How do you get to the turn signal flasher on a 1997 GMC Jimmy ...

I looked everywhere under the hood and I don't see one. I researched online and some people said that my car only has 1 fuse box which is on the drivers side dash. The fuses are fine. Like i said, i changed out the flasher and it didn't work. I don't know what else to do. The switch stays in place like its suppose to so im pretty sure its not the switch or the cam.

I'm clueless. There are lots of hits on the internet for '97 jimmy flashers don't work.

I drive a Ford.

Are the turn signals not operational in either direction, or is it just one side? When you activate the turn signal, does the arrow on your dash light up and stay lit without blinking?

The emergency flasher usually works on its own flasher unit.

Sometimes when you have a burned-out bulb in either the front or rear signal it can cause the flasher not to function.

All above being ruled out, and there is not a fuse issue, there must be a connection lost somewhere in the circuitry.

On a lighter note, it seems that the majority of drivers these days don't use turn signals anyway so they just get the middle-finger blessing and go on.

Good Luck

haha very true. Im a safe driver though..and I dont want a ticket lol.

Both directions do not work. The arrows do not light up on the dash. Nothing at all happens. The emergency lights does have its own flasher.

It had no warning for quitting..it just stopped working. I put in a different fuse for the signals and still nothing. I looked at every wire i could see and all the wires look fine. I dont know how to take off the plastic cover on the steering wheel or else i would look at the switch itself. I really do not think its that because of how normal it feels to move it around. And plus the windshield wipers still work.

Was the signal fuse that you replaced, smoked (blown)?

no it looked normal.

You can't always tell by looking...You need a multi tester, they sell them everywhere there is hardware, and can be had cheap....With this you can test the fuses and voltage and switches....

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Did you or do you have someone that can check the fuse socket to make sure there is power to one side of the fuse cubical?

From what wiring diagrams are quickly viewable online, there is a common fuse that feeds both the turn signals and backup lights. If your backup lights work, then the fuse is fine. Scrutinize the wires and connections very carefully from the fuse block on. SE is correct that a multitester can help a lot.

if i did buy a multi tester, what exactly do i do with it? what should i test and how?

Ω Set the tester for ohms or continuity.

You're testing for very low resistance, in ohms. Polarity doesn't matter in the case.

Touch one probe to each side and the reading shoulld be the same as you get from touching the two test probes together.

A light bulb abd battery could be used for this, too. Or just pull it out and look at it.

The "upside down" U (the fuse part)should be intact.

Well check the connections on the flasher to see if you get 12v...make sure to engage the turn signal first....Set the selector to DC and 20v, place the black lead to ground(bare metal) and use the red lead to make contact with the connections...If you get no reading, then locate the fuse, pull it out and test for voltage at the connections in the fuse box for a reading...If you are getting voltage in the fuse box set the dial on the tester to ohm(200), this is used to test for continuity, and place one probe on either end of the metal portion of the fuse, if you get a reading the fuse is good...You can use the ohm/continuity to test the light bulbs as well, just test the same as the fuse by placing one probe to the bottom and one to the side, if you get a reading the bulb is good....report results back, and we will continue

okay. Ill try to go buy one tomorrow. If my switch was bad, would the flasher still be making the ticking noise if i turned on my blinker or no?

No the turn signal switch sends the voltage to the flasher...

ooh i didnt know that. would the switch still feel normal when i try to turn it on or would it feel different? I ask because people say different things online and thats why i led to believe nothing was wrong with the switch..because it feels normal when i try to turn it on.

The switching mechanism and the electrical contacts are two different things...The mechanism can fail or the contacts can fail, or they can both fail....but they are one unit last time I checked...Did you check the backup lights?

Oh wow. And what do you mean back up lights?

Somebody said earlier that the backup lights were on the same fuse as the blinkers, you know the white lights that go on on the taillights when you put the truck in reverse....at night you can see these easily from inside the vehicle or just get someone to check from behind....

I just went outside and put the emergency brake on and got out and looked and the reverse lights didnt light up.

So either the fuse is bad or there is no power feeding that circuit or a ground connection has lost contact...So we want to check the fuse and power feeding the fuse, and if power is making it to the flasher....

You need to put the vehicle in reverse, handbrake on just for safety, ignition on (engine not running) and then check if the reverse lights work....

Why would the emergency (Hand?) Brake put them on, that is not what SolarEagle asked you to do I believe.....

I did put it in reverse...i put it in reverse..but my emergency brake on and got out and looked. I didnt habe anyone to look at it for me so i had to do that.

Was the ignition on?

Yeah. I started the car. I just bought new fuses and put it in and still the signals do not work

Ignition must be swiched on and gear lever in reverse for the back up white rear lights to work.

Do not touch anything where their might be power with your AVO-meter while it is swiched to Ohm.

Flickers work like this: Power from ignition switch goes to flicker unit, then to flicker-switch [Where it is channelled to the left or right flickers].

Well i tested the fuse box and fuse first because its the easiest to get to. The fuse box had voltage and so did the fuse. Im not sure what you mean by placing the black wire on ground. Ive never used one of these before so i dont know what ground is. My flasher is under the dash by the cigarette lighter and it very hard to get to. So if you can explain in further detail, ill do my best to do it.

Dont remember if i reported the results back to you but the fuse and fuse box are good. No power is getting to the flasher.

Sounds like you have a fuse which is blown. Replacing the fuse might fix the problem, or there "may" be another problem which is causing the fuse to blow. This is one of the best tutorials I have found on how to use your multimeter.

If upon replacing the fuse, it blows again, then you have a "short". And you may have to try to track down where the short might be. A fuse or a light bulb should have continuity.

The turn signal uses the brake lamp filaments in the rear. Have someone step on the brake pedal while you check to see if the brake lamps light up. If they don't, you may have a faulty ground or no voltage to the lamp circuit. Turn signals work by inserting a flasher unit into the appropriate lamp circuit (left or right). In the past the flasher unit was a bi-metallic spring which heated up to break the circuit and re-established the circuit when the spring cooled, thus causing the lamps to flash. Whenever one lamp filament failed the lower current flow would increase the flasher cycle rate (spring wouldn't get as hot so it would cool faster shortening the cycle time). Odds of two lamps failing at the same time are low. Some newer vehicles are equipped with a transistorized flasher. If you get a DVOM you can pull one of the brake lamps (has two filaments -one for brakes and one for taillights) and check for a good ground and for 12 volts. You can also test the fuse for continuity. It's highly unlikely, but if all else fails check the brake switch (feel up the brake pedal to find it) for 12 volts and for continuity.

I actually replaced the brake light switch about 2 weeks ago so i know its good. My turn signals do use the brake lights. I just changed the fuse and it fixed nothing. My other fuses work fine. My windshield wipers work so im not sure if it would effect it if the switch was bad. I have virtually all new wired and cables under the hood because i just had a new (used) engine put in.

When the new brake light switch went in, did the wires go back on the same terminals as the one that came out, for certain? Did two wires get crossed over?

Has the fault developed from the time the new engine went in, or some time aferwards, i.e. was it normal for a while after the engine was changed and the fault has happened recently? Who did the replacement engine - was it a workshop and if so what level of warranty was in the deal?

It was a workshop. I know the wires went in right. I got the car after the engine was replaced so i dont know too much of what happened with everything. I bought it from my brother in law. Hes in the air force now so i cant ask him any questions.

Were the turn signals working when you the car was handed over to you after the engine swap?

Yeah. They worked perfect. I never did hear the ticking noise but the signals worked both inside and out.

I had a 95 Chevy lumina which I recall had a similar problem. The brake lamp switch needed to be replaced. Good luck!

Are you saying that a brake lamp switch failure prevented the indicators to work?

On vehicles with a single bulb for turn and stop, I believe that is true.

My '72 Vette is that way also, I'm pretty sure.

On vehicles with red rear turn signals, they commonly use one circuit for turn, stop and emergency flashers.

Power for a turn signal comes from battery to ignition switch, to turn flasher to turn signal switch at the emergency switch location. If the emergency switch is NOT in the on position, the power continues to the contacts that the turn signal arm moves. from there it goes to two separate contacts, one to the dash mounted turn signal indicator and the front turn signal light. It also feeds the second circuit that sends power to the rear turn signal.

A move of the turn signal lever to the opposite side does the same thing, but to the same two circuits on the other side of the vehicle.

If the emergency switch is corroded, or makes a poor connection, the power to the turn signal lever contacts may be open. Please try the emergency switch on and off a few times to clean any dirty contacts. ( This is not my first choice, because the reverse lights are also out)

When the turn signal lever is moved to a left or right position, the power from the brake light switch is no longer connected to the rear circuit that lights up the brake light bulb on that side. That circuit is only connected to the turn flasher. ( if the emergency switch is off) The two circuits are required to prevent the front turn signal light from lighting up when the brake switch is activated.

When the emergency switch is turned on, power from a separate flasher feeds power to the same point as the power from the brake light switch. But the emergency switch now routs power to both left circuits and both right circuits. That is why with the emergency flashers on stepping on the brakes would stop them from flashing.

There are some newer circuit designs now that have different circuits, but for your Chevy and the OP's truck this should be it.

I think that her issue will be power at the fuse box, or power to the fuse box. Or a wrong replacement flasher after the original one went bad. A test light on the flasher connections should help. If the flasher has no power, she will need to find the correct fuse that feeds it. If the fuse is good, is there any power to the fuse? The fuse is fed by the ignition switch, which is protected by a section of fusible link at the battery, alternator, or fuse box under the hood. Good luck to all.

Yes I noticed the turn signals intermittently not functioning. I did not diagnosis it the shop repaired it during an annual inspection

If the dash lights don't come on when the headlights are on, then the fuse that feeds the rear tail lights is blown. I learned this from a cop who pulled me over for no tail lights. His first questions was "Is your dash lit up?" Turns out the tail lights are wired through the dash lights so you can know if your tail lights are out.

Diabolical!!!

Is there any mention of this tail light fault alert "feature" in the owners manual?

I've experienced indicators go steady on and not flashing if a lamp is blown but at least the remaining lamps still glow on command and the opposite side of the car still has functioning blinkers.

Madness.

The dash lights being referred to here are the turn indicators on the dash.

That is not what Deefburger wrote.

Yeah, I was a little off topic. It was an example of a single fuse with multiple function loads. I think shes got a fuse out for turn and backup.

Hi, Samantha,

I really don't have any further suggestions, but if you go over to Autozone.com and register for an account (it's free, takes about 2 minutes) you can get access to some electrical schematics that may help. Once you have the account you can go to the orange menu bar and mouse over "Repair Help" and follow this trail: "Vehicle Repair Guides"--->"Chassis Electrical"--->"Wiring Diagrams".

This will take you to a scrollable list of wiring diagrams. Select whichever one applies to your vehicle. Gray lettering at the bottom of each diagram will help. You'll probably have to look at a lot of these, but keep an eye out for word like "turn signal" or "turn signal switch". You'll be getting in the neighborhood when you see the electrical symbol for lights; it looks like a circle with a little spring inside it.

OK, now the not so great part. You now have enough knowledge to be a hazard to yourself and/or your vehicle. Once you have the schematic, it would be a really good idea to enlist someone that has experience with wiring to do the actual checkouts.

I truly applaud your willingness to learn and get hands-on experience (you have no idea how proud I was when my daughter--by herself--used a code reader to decode a 'service engine' light!) , but doing OJT on live wiring is never a good idea. At this point in your learning curve, I'd highly recommend calling in some backup. You can always help them work on the problem and pick up pointers along the way.

Good luck with the lights and please keep us filled in with what's going on.

Lol well i love working on cars so i dont mind doing this stuff. I actually want to go to school to be a mechanic. Well i think im going to buy a turn signal switch and replace it. If that doesnt work im going to have to take it to someone to look at the wiring. Thanks!

Yeah the engine was replaced about 3 months ago. Everything was working fine till randomly it stopped. Im going to check the voltage on the fuse box before i buy a switch. I want to make sure its getting power. If its not, what do i do? I guess i dont think its wiring because the other fuses are working fine and i know its not my brake pedal switch, i have brakes and i just changed it out. Its not the bulbs because the brake lights and the signals use the same bulb it lights up for my brakes. The only things left are the switch and wiring. But i dont even know where ground wires are. I looked them up online but those diagrams look way too complicated and jumbled up.

The bulb which is probably an 1157 has two circuits and two separate filaments. It has one filament to light up 25W for your brakes, and another filament to light up 25W for the turn signal. Double check all the bulbs and make sure they are all good.

Try putting the turn signal on and then check the voltage between each of the contacts for the bulb with your volt meter. Just pull the socket out and remove the bulb and see if the meter reads the turn signal right there at the socket. connect one probe to a contact and the other to the ground. Also check for continuity between the socket body and ground.

My buddy next door had a problem with an intermittent fuel pump on his GMC. It turned out the ground connection was faulty. We found that out when we dropped the tank and busted a few knuckles first!

Well none of the turn signals light up outside or on the dash. Im pretty sure they all wouldnt go out at the same time. All i know is my flasher isnt getting power. Im not sure if my fuse is. All the other fuses work like i said. I dont know how the wiring works behind the fuse box. Where does the wire from the switch connect to? I know it goes down your steering column but where?

Where the wires go is what the schematic diagram of your wiring is for. It will allow you to trace the power from the positive terminal of the battery through the circuit and back to the negative (ground) terminal. You will need to know what a switch, a fuse, a battery and ground and connectors look like in a schematic diagram.

Get a schematic wiring diagram for your vehicle, and read a tutorial on reading one on the internet.

Like this one from Make Magazine:http://blog.makezine.com/2011/01/25/reading-circuit-diagrams/

Also, learn how to use the multimeter:

http://learn.adafruit.com/multimeters/

With these three things and a little time and effort, and you will find you have a whole new skill set in addition to a fixed turn signal system!

Schematics for your vehicle are here:http://www.eautorepair.net/app/Model.asp?S0=8&S1=0&YR=1997&MK=143&MKN=GMC&PS=8

Sadly many mechanics never achieve any of this (but they should do!!!) it will pay you back 100 fold, its not difficult, those mechanics are simply too thick.....

I had the same issue with a fuel pump on my Cherokee.

What's with manufacturers and their total lack of consideration for service access anyway?

You wrestle with the bugger and can see, in your face, how it could have been designed to be easy,,,but nooo.....

Hey. Take a look at the detailed post I sent about circuits. The 1157 and similar have two filaments. One is 25 watt, but the other is 3 watt. The 3 watt is used as a tail light only. The 25 watt serves as turn, brake, and emergency light function.

The OP has multiple issues. 1) no right turn signal -front or back. 2) no left turn signal- front or back. 3) no back up lights. What ONE item can cause all of these issues? Power to the fuse, fuse, poor connection at the fuse. Or a break in the middle of a wiring harness. And that is very rare.

I did end up having reverse lights. Found that out earlier. I tested the power in the fuse box and it was good. I tested the fuse it was good. I tested the power going into the flasher socket and there was nothing.

Did you try switching the hazard switch on and off several times. If that does not correct the issue, try turning on the hazards, and removing the flasher that stops them. That will assure that you are working with the correct flasher for the turn signals. (It will be the one that does not stop the hazards)

Ive already done that. I even took out the hazard flasher and put it into the turn signal one and it didnt work. My turn signal flasher port is not getting power.

Have you got the nerve to substitute a new power supply to the flasher?

Find a fused power supply that is unused in the fuse box. Run a section of insulated wire from that connection to the "power in" terminal of the flasher. If that makes the turn signals work, you have solved the problem. While in this condition(working turns) remove the fuse for the turn signals, and use your meter to test the both sides of the fuse cavity. If both sides are live, remove your jumper, and see if the fuse cavity does dead on one side. Let me know.

It would be impossible for me to get behind the terminal for the flasher. Its so crowded under there i can barely fit my hand to test the terminal.

Use two jumpers. One from the new power to the flasher. Second from other flasher terminal back to the cavity. Remember this is for testing only.

Im probably being a blonde lol but im so lost with what you said. Can you explain differently

From your comment, I am guessing that the flashers are set into the fuse one box, correct?

Take one connector from column A, and one connector from column B

Find a live metal connector in the fuse box, take one insulated wire, and connect it to this connector. Take the other end of this wire and attach it to the turn signal flasher at one of the terminals.

Take another insulated wire and attach it to the other terminal of the flasher. Now take the other end of this wire and connect it to the empty connector where the flasher used to connect.

The idea is to make the terminal of the flasher connect to the same location in the fuse box as before on one side, and use the other wire to find a new power supply.

The flashers are buried in my dash next to the cigarette lighter. Thats why i was afraid of an electrical problem between the fuse box and the flasher. Is it not possible its the turn signal switch?

Yes. But the turn signal switch is one of the more difficult things you will deal with as a tinkerer. It has a wire connector that must be threaded down the steering column, and attached under the steering wheel. Let me do some searching and I will trace down some additional information, and get back to you in the AM.

Till then, If you Lyn asks if you want a flasher, tell him NO!

Yeah i read about that. I dont mind it.i changed out parts in a car, replaced catalytic converters and water pumps and other stuff. I like learning lol. But thanks for the help so far! Hahaha will do.

Can you get better access to the flasher by going through the opening for the glove box? You might have to hold the travel stops for the glove box door to allow it to pivot out of the way.

Have you used your meter to test ALL of the fuses?

Can you run a wire from the fuse location to the flasher?

Can you see any corrosion in the fuse connector in the fuse box?

Try using a small pliers to add a slight twist to the fuse so that it will rub the connectors in the fuse box a little tighter.

Is the weather good enough to roll the windows down and point?????

No i think it would be worse if i could go through the glove box. I tested the hazard fuse to make sure i was doing it right and i was. I doubt i could run a wire. Its too far away. I dont know why i have to get cars that are so complicated lol. I think im going to just take it to a mechanic to get it fixed. I admit defeat =\

Before you throw in the towel, do you see anything in the fuse box that looks like a connector is corroded, or has been pushed out of place?

There should only be 2 screws that hold the fuse box to the fire wall. 5/16" or 8mm. If the battery cable is disconnected, that part is not hard to pull away a little to see what is bad behind it.

Have you found the connector for the turn signal switch? See if you can find the purple wire on it. You can attach a live wire to that purple wire, and that should make your turn signals light up. Not flash, but light up. That easy test will prove your turn signal switch is good, or not. If that works, all you will need to do then is put a flasher in line with the new wire, and your S10 will be good to go.

The only fuse box i have is the one on the driver side of the dash.

Find a car electrics shop, not a "normal" mechanic, some of them have real problems with electricity....think its a "black art".....

See if you can find one that will show you how he fault finds and who will explain as he does it with you looking over his shoulder. It will cost you bit more time wise, but it may form the basis of some priceless knowledge for you.....

Yea thats true. Thanks! :)

Have you tried tracing the power wire that goes to the flasher to even see if you can find where it comes from and if it is damaged...?? ......Or have you given up and this thread is ended..?????

I gave up. But no i havent tried because everything is too crowded to even try. I would love to fix it but i need a professional to mess with under the dash cause its so crowded im afraid ill mess something else up

Good call!!

At least you now own a multitester (we call them multimeters). Have (safe) fun with that.

Make sure that the auto-electrician (not a mechanic ok?!!) who fixes your problem tells you exactly what the problem is.

Disturbing other non directly associated electrical connections during repairs of this nature is highly likely so remind him to please check that nothing is dislodged and to make sure any connectors that become accessible are pushed home just to be sure....

It's highly likely that some plastic cover retainer clips will get broken. An auto electrician will have spares in stock. This is a good opportunity to replace any other broken clips in the car's interior. Every car has some (normally legacies from past professional "care")

Once your car is declared repaired, you want to personally witness a full lighting test including your aircon, power windows if equipped, radio, all speakers, wipers....everything before rolling out the door.

Find a really rough bit of road near you and make that your test track. Drive your car along it at a really uncomfortable, bone jarring speed ( the image in your rear view mirror should be blurred) before you go for the repair. If you can get a bit of air and land hard even better.This might shake out some other faults which you can have dealt with at the same time or even fix the fault you have which will allow you to delay the repair but at least you'll know it's a dodgy connector(s)

After the repair take your car along the test track again and again and again.....check that everything is still working and if not go back to the repair facility and ask them to make it good please.

Let us know how it works out.

Don't reverse the polarity......................Or.

Sorry bobc,

You can explain it to her.

Besides, 12V would hardly flash more than 8-10 inches and it wouldn't go through a new pair of gloves.

HEY! You have been warned about flashing before. If you don't stop, its no mister nice guy from me.

You need access to a wiring diagram, I assume you have one?

GA

WHY AM I THE FIRST TO GIVE YOU ONE? THAT STINKS!!!

COME ON THE REST OF YOU SLOWCOACHES!!!!!!

Thank you for singing the praises of testing. I have worn out my fingers on that subject.

Has the OP checked the ground for these lights, it needs to be removed, cleaned and replaced.

First thing you have to have is a multi-tester like SolorEagle mentioned. Without one for the most part you are wasting your time looking for the problem you have.

Process of elimination would be the fastest solution.

Remove fuse and with tester check for power at the fuse block for that fuse, if no power the problem is the wiring at or before the fuse block, if there is power the problem is after the fuse block.

Next I would move to the flasher because its likely easier to get at and make sure power is going to the flasher and also coming from the flasher. If power is going in but none going out then the problem is the flasher , if there is no power going to the flasher then the problem is in between the flasher and the fuse block. If there is power after the flasher then the problem is the wiring between the flasher and the various lights so I would think it possibly could be a plastic connection somewhere in the harness has come apart.

In between those two points is the switch so do the same thing, after and before. Power in and no power after points to the switch.

Also look for and check all connections for tightness under the hood seeing that some where disconnected for redoing your engine.

Make sure at least one light is working on both filaments. You can do this with a short piece of wire or two and a light bulb at the battery.

You might also at some point "just to be sure"....(maybe at the start)... check for both a ground and power at one of the lights. If you have power but no ground you will need to find the common point for where all the lights at grounded, likely under the hood, that bolt may have come loose, although you did say your brake lights work so grounding, should not be the issue as both stop and signal use the same common ground.

At any point of checking a wire for power or continuity if you cant find a bare spot in the wire to hold the meter probe to, you can take a needle or pin and push it into the wire and then touch the needle, it will not damage the wire.

Hope this helps. ....................Rescue

Fuse and fuse box got power. No power going into the flasher. The flasher i know is good. So what do i do now?

Looks like a ground wire.

+12V comes out of the battery and runs through the wiring. To complete the circuit it must be connected to ground which is effectively -12 V.

The frame acts as a neutral conductor to carry the voltage back to the battery.

Normally +12 V conductors are red and -12 V conductors are black. That is not always the case.

That exhausts my knowledge of DC current.

It's time to find an automotive electrician. There is a shop in Fresno, CA called Electriclab that specializes in problems like yours. Maybe there is a similar shop near you. It looks like you have done almost everything else possible.

Do the lamps light when you have the signal switch in the turn position?

I believe that the car has a "hazard" flasher and a "turn signal" flasher. Be sure you have checked both. I believe that in that vehicle you can interchange them to make the diagnosis.

I already changed out the flasher. It didnt work. I found out that the flasher isnt getting power.

So the latest update. I have bought a mutil tester. I tested the fuse box and the fuse and both are good. If the fuse is good, i dont understand why my reverse lights arent working too.

Nevermind...i do have reverse lights.

This problem does not need an electronic engineer. It needs a new shunt capacitor. They are usually located under the dash on the driver's side of the steering column. It looks like a little aluminum can.

It may not look exactly like these but your local mechanic should be able to replace it with a new one in minutes. It really depends on the make of the car, how long it will take. In my Buick it takes about five minutes.

___________________________________________________

A hand without an arm is a useless tool

Hello. That cap is to silence the noise from the flasher heard over the radio.

Samantha0440. Let me try.

Your car has 2 flashers. You know that already.

The turn signal flasher has a Dark blue wire feeding it power from the fuse. That fuse may be # 18. It also feeds the back up light switch and the cruise control system if equipped. The wire coming out of the turn flasher is purple. That wire goes directly to the connector for the turn signal switch. It is still purple at the connector. It is also the only purple wire on the turn signal switch. That connector should be flat, with 7 to 10 connectors on it. The power to the dark blue wire to the turn flasher will only be live when the key is in the run or accessory position of the ignition switch.

The hazard flasher is also a 2 prong flasher, but it has an orange wire feeding power to it from fuse # 19, and it will be live at all times. The wire coming out of it will be brown, and will also go to the turn signal switch connector, but there MAY be another brown wire at the connector.

Now that you have your meter, test the two metal connectors at each of the flashers. Remember the correct flasher will only be live when the key is in the run, or accessory position. Let me know what you find.

i apologize if i'm repeating someone elses comment. anytime the problem involves 12v lighting, it's usually corroded ground wires. clean ALL the ground wires, front, rear and to the body and frame. the bulb sockeks should be cleaned. i use a wire brush designed for cleaning the interior of copper pipes before soldering. apply a light coat of electrical grease to the sockets and ground connections. the control relay is a black plastic box [ approx 1"x 1"] near the fuse block. you will hear it clicking. i doubt if that's the problem. they rarely go bad.

GA

I also grease earth connections to slow down rusting once they are working....

I think, in this case, that the ground is not going to be the issue. She would be missing the ground at both dash indicators, both front turn signal lights as well as both rear turn signal lights. And, when the ground circuit of a double filament bulb is lost, the bulb will ground through the other filament, and the bulb will light at a lower brightness.

There are a number of reasons that your signals might not be working. First off, I would check your fuses to make sure none of them are blown; next, check your bulbs. If those are all okay it might be your turn signal relay--in many car models these are located around the fuse panel somewhere, although they may not be immediately visible--also check to see if your hazard lights are working--if they are, and your fuses and bulbs aren't burnt it's probably your signal relay (note: there is one for the hazards and one for the turn signals) If your hazards and your turn signals are not working you may have a more in depth electrical problem, or both relays could be blown--however unlikely. One of the last things I would look at is the actual switch in the driving column that turns on your signals.