Pressure Vessel Electrical Connector

Did you test it at ≥ 120 psi?
Will the added heat result in any pressure excursions above 80 psi?
How was the original tank certified? ASME, UL, other?

RV water heaters may be purchased on this side of the pond with 6 and 10 gallon and a few 12 and 16 gallon capacities. Atwood, Rheem, and Suburban all make them in these sizes.

For a ready made heating element, I think I would head over to your local appliance store, big box home improvement center or the equivalent and buy a heater element. You can find about a dozen different sizes, wattages, voltage ratings, etc.

Take a look at this site:

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/elements.html

Good luck with your quest.

...and make sure there is a pressure relief facility that can make sure the rating of the vessel isn't exceeded.

One assumes that this thing is home-brew for private use; were it for a business application, the act of modifying it has invalidated any burst indemnity insurance cover for the equipment until it has been re-tested by the Engineer/Surveyor from the company responsible for providing that insurance cover.

Bare conductors (at mains voltage?) inside a tank of hot liquid?
I wouldn't trust it further than I could throw a sack of squirrels.

What's the conductivity of the liquid at 180F ????
If you do an order of magnitude calculation on surface area of element, coductivity of liquid, applied voltage, you'll prob find a horrible leakage current which will trip any ELCB (earth leakage circuit breaker) which would be essential as a safety precaution.

I'm all for DIY and gentle flexing of the 'rules... but this strikes me as potentially lethal.
Del

What you want to google is immersion heaters.

https://www.watlow.com/products/heaters/screw-plug-immersion-heaters.cfm

...preferably one that fits the unmodified vessel.

To clarify, there is no liquid in the container.

I am heating the air inside at a slow ramp up with a finned heat sink and a fan.

The pressure is modulated to remain at 80 PSI throughout the heat-up (the tank is rated for 100psi working pressure)

The power supply is 110 AC, and the connector is well insulated.

People getting killed from electrical shock is not realistic.

The pressure pot already had the taper seal port in it before I started this project. I simply removed the plug from the port and filled the threaded internal cavity with potting compound and the conductors, and re-installed it in the same location.

I am aware of heating elements that screw directly into threaded ports, although the existing port in my pressure pot isn't where I want the heat source.

Thanks again for any insight.

Hot air at 80psi. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...................

I am curious also,with no water, how will it generate any heat?All I see are 4 insulated brass rods.Where is the heater element?

As shown and described, it will not work as desired.

When I was in the Royal Engineers, that was the Mark One tea water heating for the use of kettle, except we used our knife and fork, tied to a piece of wood that was laid as a bridge over an old coffee can holing the water.

How does that device work without water?

Thanks Rich,

Exactly the answer I was looking for.

With all the comments in regards to putting bare conductors in a water pot I was beginning to think that I either wasn't clear in my post, or that everyone here is just ridiculous.

I went with the threaded rod to get a good mechanical hold on the conductor, it might be over-thinking it, but i figured that under enough pressure a round rod could get pushed out of its casting.

Good idea with the CA on the stranded wire too.

Thanks Again

OK, let me see if I have this right:You want to put bare conductors thru a fitting into a tank that will be holding compressed air?The pass through fitting as shown may work,but the question is:Where is the heating element?

How will you produce the heat you need to heat the air?

I don't quite understand what you are doing with the conductors once you have them inside the tank.Sometimes I can be real slow on the uptake, so please forgive my ignorance in asking for clarification of your heating method.

Please give more details about the heating element,which must be obvious and simple to you.But remember, I rode that little short school bus...

Thanks

You were not clear in your OP, I assumed that it was some kind of expansion tank. Being engineers, we like to know it all, beginning to end. The kind of heater/thermostat could affect the comments on the pass through.

I wasn't fooling about the Mark One, we did heat water with our knifes and forks and electrical chords etc.

I know you were not kidding.There used to be a room vaporizer that had an all plastic housing and pot, that had two electrodes in it,inside of a plastic tube.It relied on the conductivity of the water to produce heat.If it was not making enough steam, you added a little salt to improve the conductivity and increase output.

Distilled water does not readily conduct electricity, and is one great solvent.I have used distilled water to clean contaminated circuit boards,and then used heat lamps to dry them with good results.

These boards came from Motel TV sets and were usually the result of spilled mixed drinks into the chassis.

I agree with you, the OP did not properly explain his problem or question.

I prefer to think that I was perfectly clear in that 1 out of 50 people understood what I wanted.....

But seriously, I realize that I didn't provide a complete picture of what I am doing.

I'll model up the rest of the setup i'm putting together with a more complete description and post it for your review.

And I do enjoy the off-the wall comments as well.

Thanks