Hard Brakes Car Won't Stop

It could be the vacuum line to the brake booster....

thank you very much im taking all advice and i appreciate your help

With a problem like that, I certainly wouldn't drive it in this condition.

Need to check and repair the brake section: possible causes--

1. Does it make noise? Check the brake pad if there is still enough braking material on it.

2. 1991: perhaps the brake cylinders are rusted, the pedal command,the master pump.

Rusty brake disks do not work well either. Do not use oil or WD40 or whatever liquid on it. When your brake material is soaked with something like brake brake fluid, that is not very good either. Fix the leak ,,,,,\ and replace the pads. When you live very remote and have no spare parts PM me.

I see it more in the lower part of the car. Weather or Wear.

Power assist for the brakes is most likely failed.

Have it towed to a brake repair shop or the dealer and get it fixed.

Brakes are not the best subject for someone to learn DIY auto repair on as your life (and others) depend on them.

It is the nut behind the wheel.

DO NOT DRIVE A CAR THAT YOU CAN'T STOP.

This, apparently is uncommon among Hondas. I looked on a couple of Honda sites and brakes are not even on the radar.

Vacuum booster problems are probably a good place to start.

I had that problem once, and a squirrel had chewed a hole in the back of the vacuum hose to the booster. Took me forever to find it.

So, where did you finally find that squirrel?

He went back to work Here

A real squirrel fan.

Someone ought to tell the squirrel that wheel has no brakes!

>ˇ\./ˇ< classics - otherwise it may be air in break lines - you'd have to pump the brake multiple to make it engage ? donno

I never did, but they're all over the place.

It was the acorn hulls under the air filter housing, that told me to take a closer look at the vacuum lines.

Wow. That sucks.

i have a 91 honda accord ex i just purchased

Did you not test drive it before you bought it?

Were you informed the brakes were not working?

What warrenty or consumer guarentee acts cover the purchase in your country and why are you not talking directly with the person or group you brought it off?

It could be any number of things, like a broken cable. Don't attempt to repair it yourself if you don't know what you are doing, insurance likely wont cover you if you have an accident in it.

Do not attempt to drive it in this condition, get a mechanic to look at it. You will likely need to hire a tow truck to get it there unless you can get a mechanic out to the vehicle.

Did you not test drive it before you bought it?

Were you informed the brakes were not working?

There's always some genius warning people not to pull the grenade pin right after they've pulled it. Is your nickname Captain Commonsense?

Well someone has to be, and I prefer to think of them as near misses rather than absolutes which makes more sense.

Check the level of the break fluid. Also, check to see if the break fluid is pure, and has not been contaminated.

Why?

PLease explain to those of us who do not understand, how low fluid level can contribute to a hard pedal and just why this is not misleading the OP.

Why? Because of what Jimrat said. Besides that, seeing as the world is filled with nimrods, it is not inconceivable that some nimrod filled the brake system with something other than brake fluid - like transmission fliud. Because, being a know nothing nimrod, they figured - hey they are both red, they must be the same thing!

It is also possible, that some nimrod who knew what he was doing filled the brake system with something other than brake fluid as a "joke", or even maliciously!

At no time did I say that the fluid was low. I told him to check the level. Seeing as the world seems to be ruled by nimrods, it is also NOT inconceivable, that whatever they filled it with, and for whatever reason they overfilled the system. IF, you ever take the top off a master cylinder, and it overflows, you can bet that some NIMROD got there before you.

Thanks.

The problem is that the car is present and the money that was paid for it is now absent. Fortunately, internet auction sites (names withheld) are great solutions for problems like this these days. One simply lists the vehicle and, a few days later, someone pays money to take the problem away.

Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air which is why the manual says change the brake fluid every two years. It is an onerous job so no one ever does, myself included. The water in the fluid then corrodes the piston ( usually aluminium ) and the cylinder ( usually cast iron ). Each wheel has piston and cylinder arrangement AND there is one attached to the brake pedal itself. If any of these are corroded and stuck it will give those symptoms. I, or others on this site can take you step by step through the diagnosis if you feel competent enough to follow directions.

1. do you know what a booster is?

2. do you know what a master cylinder is?

3. do you know what a brake caliper is?

4. do you have flare nut spanners?

5. can you afford to buy new cylinders?

Jim

You might have air in the brakes lines from badly cracked lines, or possibly due to the master cylinder going empty from a leak and that would fill the lines with air and make you have a hard pedal and no brakes. Make sure all lines are in good condition then bleed all the wheels one by one and you should see the air coming out of the lines and feel the brakes returning in the process. Makes sure you don't let the master cylinder run dry while bleeding.

Air in the hydraulic circuit of auto brake system produces a soft pedal as the air is quite a bit more compressable than the brake fluid.

Does the car stop evenly,with no pull to either side?If so,the vacuum booster is either defective(a leak in the diaphragm) or a vacuum leak to the booster is the problem.

If it stops unevenly,pulls to one side or the other,you probably have air in the brake lines, and they need to be bled out to purge the air.If this is the problem, I have a simple method for doing it yourself.Let me know.

Does the car idly roughly,or put out black smoke when idling?This is another indication of a vacuum leak.

The engine control computer see the excessive air as a lean mixture, and increases the fuel to the cylinders.

Does the car idle worse when the brakes are applied,with the car sitting still?Another indication of a vacuum leak in the diaphragm.

Honda's are super reliable,so my first suspect would be a vacuum line from the manifold to the booster(The big round thing on the firewall,with the master cylinder attached to it.)Trace the line visually and physically,by feeling it for the entire length of the line.Sometimes leaks will hide on the back side of the tube or line (Murphy's Law,#:2.814749767E14).

I don't know where you are located,but ask friends for a reliable and trustworthy mechanic in the area.It should be a simple task to tell you the trouble,and give an estimate for repair.

Hope this helps.

I am not sure about a '91 Accord, but my '83 had a one way valve in the vacuum line to the brake booster. Thus that hose should be installed in the right direction. It is more than just a vacuum line so it cannot be swapped end for end. So take care in your assembly/disassembly.

Bill

As reliable as Honda cars are, this is a 1991 - it's a 22-23 year old car. It could be something simple like a brake booster or a valve in the vacuum line. It could also be corroded calipers or master cylinder.

Since the car is so old, I recommend you flush the brake fluid and bleed the system. First check the fluid and if it looks clear (not cloudy or gray), it has been flushed - you don't need to do it. Even if you need brake booster work, at least you'll know the fluid is good (for the future).

Good luck and next time, be careful buying a car with brake problems. It can be a costly repair.