2004 Dodge Ram: Horn Blows on its Own

So far, nothing you have done makes any sense.

Bad batt or fuses will not make the horn blow.

What does the dealer say? Have you looked on the web for manufacturer recall/repair notices?

Have you checked any Dodge forums?

Do you live by the ocean?

Thank you for the input I found other comments about the problem , So far they all verify one thing there is a problem in the module . If you have any other Suggestions feel free to contact me on this post

If anybody should have the answer, it should be you...

....blowing your own horn is about all you ever do.

OH, I DO HAVE THE ANSWER.

But if I answer every question straight away, what would all you Wannabes have to do?

Good point!

You're kind of like having our own Magic 8-Ball.

Is it usually parked when the horn goes off? If so, is the horn going off when it is parked around certain vehicles, or is it parked away from other vehicles?

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If the horn also goes off when it is being driven, have you noticed being in proximity to certain vehicles when it goes off, or are you generally away from other vehicles?

Some horns are switched to the mass of the car to sound. The wire runs through the steering column and can have its insulation damaged along the run. Your contact can also be stuck due to a spring that is dislocated on the switch.

ssupercoqui-

Understand you frustrations and lack of solutions. The problem you have described I once had on a '66 Pontiac GTO. It would happen sporadically whenever it wanted to and with no consistency. Old codger type mechanic told me there was a frayed insulation on the horn wire as it went down through the steering column. My first question to him was how can it happen when the car has been sitting for 2 days and all of a sudden it goes off? He said something to the sort of 'Don't bother me if you don't believe me!'

Pulled out the wire and replaced it. Sure enough the old wire had a break in the insulation and would make contact. This was initiated by many things. Heat expansion from the car sitting in the sun, cooling down in the shade or dark, turning the steering wheel, bumps, turns and all sorts of other things. The car didn't have to be running or moving, it had a mind of it's own. With this I pulled a new replacement wire through but put several layers of electrical tape on it to delay it happening again. Don't know how the wire got frayed but the cure worked.

I have since heard of this happening to other cars and light trucks.

Also, respect old codger mechanics and engineers, you might be one sometime!

Good Luck, Old Salt

Thank you for the input , another question cannot be the reason why is also draining my battery

Screw that. Just cut the wires.

What you need is some class on your ride. Bolt this puppy on your side door and not only will you command respect, but you will be the envy of the town.

Not sure about more modern cars, but at one time horm was usually powered by a relay (to reduce current through the button contacts). Coil permanently supplied with 12V, other side earthed via the horn button, so just 1 wire needed to the button. So a fault in the button (as suggested in #2) or any damage to the wire causing a short to earth will sound the horn.

No answer here but it seems Dodgy!

What the Chrysler are you talking about?

You are not a Cavalier asking this quesition!

I Ram sorry for asking the question. It was a Jeep shot.

Get yourself Ford. This is Sh!t Bishi!

It sounds like your truck has an attitude problem. If you park it around some trucks like the ones below it might not feel so cocky, and perhaps stopping blowing its own horn all the time.

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A long time ago I had a 1974 Ford that would blow its horn at seemingly random times, mostly in the middle of the night in winter. Turned out there were some brass strips inside the steering wheel, held apart by plastic insulators. When you pressed on the wheel to honk the horn, the brass strips would be pushed together to complete the circuit. One of the insulators had fallen out, so the brass strips were very close together, and in really cold weather they would touch each other and honk the horn.

Me too. '71 Mustang.

Drove me crazy till I figured it out.

When I hit an electrical problem like that I tend to go straight to carfax and see if it has been in a frontal collision. It is unbelievable how many wires run through the front a modern vehicle. Horn, lights, airbags, traction control, anti-lock, roll abatement, suspension adjustment, and now all the sensors, the list is mind boggling. Once the front of a vehicle has been hit, if an electrical problem surfaces, SELL THE VEHICLE is the standard reply at any dealership or garage. A wire pinched or pulled, chaffing, insulation broken causing monentary shorts will drive you nuts because short of pulling the entire frontal harness there is no way to find it or correct it. Most body shops are not capable of, or do not have the time, to correctly evaulate the condition of the wiring when rebuilding a car. And given how much of the car is electric and getting worse like fly by wire throttles, brakes, (Toyota found these two expensive) transmissions, (GM is good one for these issues) Traction control, the list goes on.

So when you start with an electrical problem in a modern vehicle first see if it is a collision issue and if it is get rid of the vehicle, you will be happier and richer for it.

You need to figure this out, do you own a VOM? Alarms and horns going off in the middle of the night tend to irritate neighbors, and they may solve the problem for you. Older dodges have corroded connections that often cause problems.