Advice On Air Gun Needed

This all comes down to how much money you have to spend, or are willing to spend....there are many rust treatment products on the market....I would also add some undercoat...

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/specialized-maintenance-repair/body-interior-trim/permatex-rust-treatment-detail

http://www.por15.com/

Thanks. I'll look into both products.

I was wondering about the oil spay since I saw a vehicle ('54 Ford Pickup) that the owner had sprayed each year, that was in great shape. I have no idea what type of oil he used..maybe used motor oil.

If you're just doing the bottom of your truck, either use spray cans or rent an airless sprayer.

I've had good luck with this stuff. Remember though, prep is key. Nothing will stick if it isn't clean as a whistle.

Also, if the EPA or any similar outfits catch you spraying oil all over the bottom of your truck, you may just land yourself in more trouble than you want to think about.

I've used the Rust-oleum UC for decades. Great stuff. I use it twice a year on my Jeep TJ.

After a good power washing, I go underneath, do a little scraping and and overall check, dry, and apply the undercoating. It works great and looks great too. It takes a couple cans. Total cost is about $12, and a few hours.

If you have air tools and waht to spray "oil" get one of these.

32 Oz. General Purpose Paint Spray Gun

Item #93205 Only: $21.99Sale: $16.99

I would not do, or advise, it myself.

Without lot's more thought.

Thanks for the advise...I think it's going to be the POR products. Total cost looks to be around $250 including a spray gun. But since it's below freezing here for the next few months, I'll be waiting to get started I think!

Spraying oil on the bottom of the truck, sounds like a bad idea.

Not only from an environmental standpoint, but if you get it on your brake components, you may not get to enjoy your rust protection for long.

The whole concept sounds rife with potential problems.

Maybe something that dries, like boiled linseed oil.

its an old "shade tree", approach to rust prevention.......not EPA approved!

A lot of things I do are not EPA approved...or even wife approved!

Excellent choice, POR-15. It is UV sensitive so don't use it topside. It is so hard and slick that if you want to overpaint it, you have to spray the primer on it before the POR-15 cures.

Nice part is that you don't have to derust, POR means Paint Over Rust. Do knock off the big chunks though.

You could use MetalPrep first if you want to knock the rust down to iron-phosphate which is a really good basis for paint. You can get water or alcohol based MetalPrep at any auto paint store.

Tom Consulting-

I wouldn't recommend using oil intended to lubricate an engine or a rear end for this application. The first puddle you go through you will rinse some of it off the body. Go through a bigger puddle and even more comes off. Go through deep long puddle and there goes all the oil rust preserving.

This would be similar to putting the oil on and then taking a garden hose with a nozzle to the layer of oil on the bottom of the car. More water, less oil.

Good Luck, Old Salt

They produce coatings oil based to treat steel for storage it leaves a waxy film. I have used it to treat the steel I have stored. Sprayed it on with a garden sprayer.

It may be linseed. Raw linseed oil won't dry, but boiled will, albeit, slowly. It can also be reduced with mineral spirits for a thinner coat that's easier to spray. Garden sprayer is fine...or even a hand held spritzer bottle, for more control/less overspray.

http://www.fullchisel.com/blog/?p=1157

I believe it has high levels of paraffin in it. Drys to a wax.

cosmoline is what you are thinking of.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline

I just found another product I may try - Fluid Film - seems to have good reviews and comes in an aerosol can. I could use it on a number of toys machines around here!

Sounds good. I don't think used motor oil would last very long.

Although there are a lot of people that claim it does work. My old farrier had this sweet '54 (I think) ford short bed pick up that he used in his business. I was always amazed at how nice it was and he just sprayed every year with used motor oil.

I guess if you did it a few times a year.

As a guy that works on my own truck, I'd prefer to have something that dries. Used oil sounds messy.

As it turns out, I was just getting my vehicles inspected at my local mechanics and he has a 50 gal drum of Fluid Film that he uses on customer's cars. Said he can do my truck for about $150. Sounds good to me after the weather get better! He uses an under coat spay gun.

So thanks for all the info and discussion, I've made my decision.

Spraying the underside with anything oily in most of Europe will get your car banned from the road. Simply not allowed, though I can well imagine that the boiled linseed oil idea could be environmentally better....but how would you prove it?

Many, many yars ago I used Waxoyl in the box sections of my cars, which effectively stops the rust "inside". I never ever had a car rust through anywhere underneath, but then I did not have a tiny camera on a cable either then!! I have today and it is fantastic for small places!!!

I even found a UK website for Waxoyl and they are still using it!! Here:-

http://www.waxoylprofessional.com/

Maybe someone here has used it fairly recently and can comment? Though its really a long term fix.......

This is not really a recommendation as I have no facts, just that it appears to work as far as I could tell then.....it appears that it soaks into rust and seals it from the air.....stopping further rust!!

I still have a litre of fish oil that is great at getting into seams. I still have it because the stuff stinks. I opened the can, put a little in the bottom of my doors and then put it away again. Doors didn't rust! I can email it to you.

Seriously though, a well prepared and painted surface is as good as it gets. Just look at the exterior. An old friend of mine tells me that Chevys sold in Saudi Arabia had no paint or coating of any sort on their undersides. Here in Oz they were often coated with a thick bituminous product that would crack and the water get in between the coating and the bare steel and CAUSE rusting. Ford Australia used a water borne oil based paint that was in a huge bath and the entire vehicle body was dipped. They guaranteed against rust for 5 years. ( please feel free to correct me as I haven't verified this myself ).

Jim

Before you buy your gun decide on your product. A water based product may need a larger tip/orifice than a lacquer for example. You may NEED to use an airless unit or you might even look at HVLP units.

Spray guns aint spray guns,

Jim

Go to an automotive parts store and buy what they call a flood gun. It is an airgun with an adjustable nozzle and it operates off of air. It has a pickup hose that you drop in your oil or also in paint. We use this type of spray gun to paint the inside of large generators. You can also put an orifice on the intake hose to slow the amount of fluid that is sucked up to spray. I will try to get you a link and will post it later.

Go to amazon.com and search for Siphon spray gun. The one listed below can be used for many things. It is only 12.99$ Very cheap and will spray dern near anything that you want to put through it. Anytime Tools Engine CLEANING Gun SOLVENT AIR Pressure Washer Sprayer by Anytime Tools $20.00 $12.99 Order in the next 10 hours and get it by Friday, Jan 24. Only 8 left in stock - order soon. More Buying Choices $12.99 new (2 offers) (18) FREE Shipping on orders over $35 Product Features Sprays kerosene, soap & other solvents under high pressure Automotive: See all 10 items

Living in a salt rich environment all of my life, I can warn you that undercoats often trap and hold moisture and the salts, and can make the problems worse. Your surface must be as clean as the prep for galvanizing etc. If using undercoat, preheat all metal ahead of the spray with a hair dryer or such, as you move along. Car dealers made fortunes by selling aftermarket UnderCoating as a part of the new car purchase ((or "would throw it in for FREE). Doing Baja for 22 years in a VW bus, and putting 30000 miles on it, I can vouch for a garden type pump sprayer and used motor oil, applied liberally, driving down a dusty road, to seal it, and then power washing with soap when needing to recoat or to do repairs. Cheap, easy, and quick.

Howdy , I owned and operated a bodyshop for 37 years . I would probably go to my paint store or local part store and check out their spray bed liner . The kit comes in 4 quarts or a gallon package . Requires it's own type of gun . The gun costs 30 to 50 according to where you go . The bed liner kit costs from 99 to 200 . Some of the kits you can tint with your desired color or comes in clear or black . Hope this helps .There is a component called CLR . you could use on the specific rust . Also Rustoleum Rusty metal Primer made a believer out of me . For it use a low priced gun at your parts store .

I've had good results with something like this from the auto part stores. This brand is Schultz but there are others out there... Just screw the can to the gun and go at it. They have all kinds of different materials ranging from oily type to some black tar-like material and/or rock guard rubbery stuff. Most of the cars I own(ed) are "well-used" and this prolongs their life a bit.

Good luck,

Rick.