Changing Stud Bolt on Rear Wheel of 2003 Dodge Caravan

Thank you Solar Eagle. I only looked for dodge. but Chrysler is analog.

It is about the same tool I made for the ball joints. Good to know. I was afraid to have to take the rotor apart.

Promised to come back on it.

It is the picture that solar eagle provides, but the bolt cannot be put in there without taking a lot apart. A hole could have been a easy solution, but none available.

Just to update. D

Here everything is extra. Money.

When you have a contractor to pour a concrete slab. They pour more, ruin a lot an wait 1 week to remove the spills for extra $$. When i let them change the stud, it will be loose or the rotor will be cracked or damaged too.

I know how to do it. Just wanted to know if it works without removing the rotor, bearings etc..

Thank You

D.

What does the replacement stud look like? You should be able to tell how it's fitted, hence how to remove the broken one, and whether there's room to remove it.

One I did recently, the stud had tapered splines on the "back" end. It wasn't broken, I had a spare hub and wanted to keep a couple of studs just in case. I ran a wheel nut on the bolt, flat side out to about flush with end of the bolt, and tapped it out with a hammer, being careful to hit it nice and true. There was room to get it out OK.

Of course you need to have enough thread left on the broken stud to do that, but if not and it fits like mine you can just hammer it out, you're not worried about damaging the stud. It's possible there's room to get the broken one out, but not to get a full-length one in, though I doubt it. Let us know how you get on.

Hi Del,

Looks like a bolt with a thicker end and a small collar. I'd like to press it out, because I don't want to hit the rotor with a hammer while the bearings are still in there.

Made a tool to press it out. The old one will pass, because it's broken and shorter.

Do not know about the new one. Seems like I will give it a try as soon as I feel to go there.

Knock out the remaining part with a good punch and ball peen hammer while wearing eye protection. Install the new one from the inside and pull it through with a wheel nut and a good spacer such as a nut one size bigger than the stud. Lube the threads with a good grease to prevent thread damage. Re install the wheel and torque the nuts to specs. Simple job and done it many times maybe not on a minivan though.

Thanks I forgot about the sensors. Also damn expensive sometimes.

That's a fair point. The one I did was a scrap hub so it didn't matter. You can remove the ABS sensor, I think the part inside the hub is just a notched metal disc and quite robust, but that still leaves the bearings. I'd be surprised if tapping the stud out caused a problem, you don't have to beat the living s**t out of it, but just in case......

Go back and read #10. All I can add, is to put some grease on the washers to make them slide more easily. Good luck.

One thing you may think about doing is freezing the stud. An old mechanic's trick I was taught many years ago.

I must agree that cold on that rotor is easier on it than heat, although the press will most likely take care of the matter without either, cold would make this easier on the rotor, since the stud press would not be screwed down as tightly. Good answer! Yeah, don't let the weasel tire guy fix it, he probably knows nothing about bearings, and ABS sensors.

The bolts are also pretty soft. The fitted part of it has some grooves to make room for material move.

I have a grand caravan sport and if I recall it should come out easily. a heavy hammer blow or two should knock it out of the hole, there should be enough wiggle room in there to get the stud out and maneuver the other in. usually they come out fairly easily, heat will make it easier but usually is not necessary. I replaced many of the studs on mine and don't think I had to do much for the back. It looks like there is not much room, but if you turn the hub you should be able to get the stud out. cutting off the stud is an option but is really unnecessary as there should be enough room behind it. I have replaced many of these and never had too much problem. once you get the new one on, just tighten the nut down to draw the new stud in place. drive it for a while and then tighten again to make sure it is fully seated.

What about possible wheel bearing damage due to "hitting" it?

"a heavy hammer blow or two should knock it out of the hole"

I personally would try and use some form of "press" maybe with a judicial application of heat and cold in the right places (nowhere near the bearings/Grease seals with the heat!)......someone mentioned that correct tools are often available....I would use them if possible.

No heavy knocks as wheel bearings are an area where I don't want any failures, especially when driving!!

Even if no accident is caused, early life failure is now programmed in and the costs of some car wheel bearing replacement due to poorly thought out design, can be large.....though in my experience, not so bad on newer models...(at least on cars I have owned since 2000).

Years ago I had a Nissan that when replacing the front disks, you had to press the whole assembly off the axle, including the bearings, which meant that you replaced them anyway, doubling the costs.

The tool needed for that was a huge press - had to have it done by the Nissan dealership - never again Nissan!!!

The grooves in the stud are not to allow it to move, they are to prevent it from turning when you turn the lug nuts, and to keep them in place so they don't fall out.

Fair point about the sensor. I would put a pry bar or block behind the hub then hit it this has never resulted in sensor problems but a press is cheap as well

But why not remove the sensor - #13? Then there's no risk of damage. Fixed by an M4 bolt on my Ford. But I agree to put a block behind the hub flange to reduce impact on the bearing.