Good Vertical CNC Machine Under 5k?

Could it be that you need to add more money? Or remove the CNC part?

$5,000.00 doesn't buy you much, perhaps a used one or some toy machine.

I agree 5k isn't much, but we don't need a high production machine, more of a machine to be used in a college class room for learning and making simple 3 axis or 2.5 axis parts. I went to the site http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/480000%7C700002 and saw quite a few machines under 5k, but I have no experience with cnc machines so I don't know if they are any good. Just wondering if you guys got recommendations of machines under 5K.

Yeah something like that, I'll keep it as a strong contender. Though its work area is a bit small 6'' 4'' 2'', but I see the mdx-20 seems like the same as mdx 15 except more expensive and bigger work area. Do you have experience with it, I find it hard ? It seems like it uses its own cam program to make toolpaths out of stl files, but can it use more popular cam g code made by cam software such as hsm and mastercam? Do you know how it holds the stock piece. Sorry for so many questions.

Well they have several models there that you can build as you like....this might be the way to go for students...learning from the ground up, so to speak....They look like they would be easy to work on and fairly simple to operate....good starter project.....I have not used any of these, but have been looking for a good one for years in this price range....without having to design and build from scratch.....They say it is adaptable to several file types....Look around at some of the other machines and kits....they do have several video's...

http://www.robotshop.com/en/sherline-2010-series-basic-manual-tabletop-milling-machine-mm.html

Thanks, the mdx seems more fitting as it allows the use of a cam program, instead of only manual. I will look around on the site.

Thanks for the warning. How do you know?

Because I did what you are contemplating.

In the end I had to eat the loss and get what I should have gotten in the first place.

Go to www.littlemachineshop.com and look at their approximately $5,000 CNC mill. It is small but rugged and I've seen it in action. Ball screws, components safely hidden and it will work well for years.

You don't get self cleaning machines at any price so learn to wipe it down after a session. Mach 3 software will run it nicely. Then you just need a CAD program and a CAM program to get to the G-code. MeshCAM will do nicely as will Geomagic Design if you want a decent MCAD program.

Sorry for late reply. I am liking that littlemachineshop site. That machine http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3501&category=1241045623 is only parallel port capable, and we use laptops without printer ports unfortunately.

Thanks though.

Here are some sites that may help. These guys will be able to give you the information you request. As they are into these type of machines. Not to say many here are not. Just the limits of the cost at 5k limits my knowledge. Most I work with cost 20 times more. On these sites as a teaching aid there will be kits and info to build one yourselves. Or list of new or used machines.

If the milling machine is a teaching aid for programing why not a 3D printer?

http://www.cnczone.com/index.php

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/

Thanks I'm going to look into those sites. We already have some 3d printers so we don't need them atm.

I would look for a used machine like a Tormach CNC.

I would not recommend the cheap Chinese mills like Grizzly as they are poorly made.

Cheap and good usually do not fit in the same sentence.

Sorry for late reply. I really like the Tormachs though they are bit over the budget. I will ask my teacher if he is alright with it.

thanks.

You can replace any crank handle on a machine (as in #5) with a stepper or servo and change from hand operation to CNC.

Not really.

You need to also change the X & Y lead screws with ball screws and nuts.

Lead screws have much too much backlash to be used with a servo or stepper motor. Balls screws are the only choice and they are a significant part of the expense.

Typical CNC conversion kit starting prices begin at about the $5K budget me_is_dunno is citing.

One do not need accuracy for educational purposes. It is the principle that need to be conveyed.

I can assure you that you will not be able to make a part with a standard lead screw.

I will agree that ball screws are the way to go. I have seen the lead screw used and the backlash can be removed on some mills like the old Bridgeport's. They used split nuts that could be adjusted as they wore. The issue I have seen with the lead screws is they don't handle rapid travel as well.

http://probotix.com/FireBall_Comet_cnc_router/

Looks good for small projects made of wood (MDF- HDF) and will be able to mill fingers and thumbs also. For metals, you'll need cooling and something more robust as router. The router bit rpms need to be slowed down for metals too. Is this 3 axis or 2.5?

Sorry late reply.

Yea, I think I would prefer a mill, more robust and able to cut metals.

Sorry for late reply.

Not sure, it looks like a more expensive. You have experience with it?

thanks.

It would depend on what you are trying to teach. If you are trying to teach high speed machining then you cannot do it for 5k. I am assuming from what you described that you are teaching the NC of CNC. That you are teaching the machine code language and related CAD/CAM kind of thing.

You can do pretty good fulfilling that assumption with a Taig Mill. You can add your own stepper motors like I did, or you can buy one that is CNC equipped already for about 2.2K. The supporting CAM that I use is free up to a 50 lines and the unlimited license is about $200.00.

This mill won't take a 1/4 in cut through 440C Stainless Steel, but if you are training it will do great on machinable waxes, and plastics. I mainly use mine on Aluminum and I am quite happy with it.

If you need more info on the CAD CAM end of things, let me know.

The taig mills and the tormachs are top choices now, but tag is more in the budget.

Taig mill says

• STEEL CUTTING capability with tests showing a single pass 1/8" depth slot cut in mild steel with a 1/8" end mill -Try This on other desktop mills!

Does that mean we would be able to cut steel as long as we do 1/8'' depth passes.
thanks.

No, it is a measure of the sturdiness of the mill to hog out metal in larger amounts in a single pass.

You can cut at any depth, but you should observe speed and feed recommendations for the material you are cutting.

Now, the real test is not with an 1/8" mill, but something larger where the forces are more significant. The mark of a good machine is how smooth that cut is as weaker or poorly built mills will flex and the result is a pattern in the cut.

This is why heavier mills are better. Mass makes a difference. Taig is a good little mill, but it is designed to cut small parts and it will not hog out as much metal as bigger and better mills.

Ok thanks for clearing that up.

Hi

I have used the Modella and its ok for engraving soft materials but noisy and limited. Ours broke the nylon gear when it crashed. We also have a larger CNC miller but frankly nobody uses it anymore because we find the laser cutter and engraver far easier and better to use with students. The millers won't effectively cut or engrave metal other than shallow engraving of aluminium and brass. They are noisy and without good dust extraction produce a lot of dust from MDF and pine. Hardwoods such as beech burn out cutters easily. Lasers won't cut metal but do a great job on other organic materials with acrylic being very good. An additional rotary attachment would give an extra dimension too. Setting up is easier allowing students to use it without supervision. Hope it helps.

Sorry late reply.

Yeah, so I am not considering getting MDX anymore modela mdx anymore. With the high maintenance and inability to cut metals.

Can you clarify on what engravers are compared to mills? Can engravers do what mills do.

thanks.