Pump Motor On A Generator

"This is surprising. A request for friendly, hopeful quick response from someone who is admittedly too lazy to do their own web search, much less actually going out and getting a survey or even a legal property description. You're making a joke, right? Normally I ignore such inept types of post, but considering the harassment I got from you and some of your cronies a few days ago, I just couldn't resist.

For the benefit of others who are considering posting in this(or any) technology sharing forums. Consider this the wrong way of asking for help and expect to get, at best, some helpful advise on how to post a request for help. At worst, sarcastic replies because you are not experienced, but wanting help. First, thoroughly describe your situation, including all variables and details that might help readers know exactly what you are asking. Before posting, make your best attempt to find the answer yourself. "What is a capacitor" is an irresponsible question. Google is your friend and 9 times out of 10 can answer your question without subjecting hundreds of people to that question because you are too lazy to look for yourself."

Tips for Posting on CR4:

• Look for answers before you post. Search CR4 or use a search engine to see if you can find the answer to your question. Couldn't resist, in light of your recent "contribution" to my post.

Why don't you tell us what you think....that way we can answer without disagreeing with you, thereby remaining on topic....

Can one damage a pump motor from a voltage drop?

I presume that anything is possible but I'd like to know how one stops such a motor. On second thought, if the voltage drop is so high that insulation overheats and ignites then a voltage drop could damage a motor. One might also have a problem if the low voltage does not allow a centrifugal switch to remove starter windings. This could be a problem scenario

The volt drop will be in the cable. The fuse or breaker is there to protect the cable. If the cable is correctly sized and correctly protected, then there will be no damage to either the cable or the motor in which case the expression <...smoke test...> is not applicable.

Were the motor to start with the rotor jammed by a blunt stick or some other inanimate object, then one would like to see an overload device in circuit so as to disconnect the motor without damage to the cable and without operating the fuse/breaker.

Correct selection of both fuse/breaker and the overload device is a subject called "co-ordination".

It is not possible to <...lower the start pressure...> as for a centrifugal pump, the start pressure is zero.

The applicable national wiring standard will give full protocols for cable sizing and protection. In the UK, for example, one would apply British Standard 7671 as has been mentioned in this forum on countless occasions previously <sigh>.

<unsubscribes>

If pump is manual start open the valve slightly while starting it and gradually open it and check the current by a clamp-on meter.

I have one of those, but the transient spike is too fast for an analog meter to read. A digital logger would, though. Wish I had one of those, yeah.

Once I start it once, I won't need any further testing. If it works, it works.

Well connect the damned thing up and see what happens.

Let us know the outcome, we all need a good laugh.

It's at another location. Hopefully I'll be there in a couple weeks. Will report.

While starting select higher range in meter,once started select normal range.In pressure gauges accuracy is high at mid point in range (pointer vertical)

If that transient spike is the start current, the motor is coming up to rpm and switching to run windings...the current reading at that point should equal the rated run current. Check generator voltage at output- should equal motor voltage rating, if it's lower at the end of extension cord under load, get a heavier or shorter cord. A digital logger to record start current would be handy to check bearing condition given the voltage doesn't drop when the generator rpm gets pulled down by the load.

There is no transient spike. There is no current reading.

OP is asking if there will be any problems starting a 1HP 230v 3 phase submersible pump, 135 feet down hole, with a 5 Kw generator.

The extension cord is moot.

In looking at the specs. 10 awg wire is sufficient for that distance. Wire size, so far, is the only unknown.

OP can correct me, if I'm wrong. (Being wrong is a condition with which I am intimately familiar )

OK, sorry to hear about dialysis, that can't be any fun.

I've got a minute, too. Just waiting to cancel a car reservation for a trip that got canceled. I'm having a tumor chopped out of my face instead. (Nothing worse than two old farts comparing their ailments)

The generator the OP is using is 120/240 V. It is a temporary set-up so he is going to use the 240 V twist lock connector on the genset.

Devilbiss Powerback GT5250

Good luck.

I agree, just looked it up and found complaints about 'alternator'...doesn't bode well for a pump expecting 60hz 230vac.

Oh well. Worst case it doesn't work. It was a freebie. I have another older similar gennie, a Coleman Powermate leftover from my Y2K bunker.

I invested a couple hundred in an LP conversion, but if I retire this gennie, I'll upgrade to a 7kw and use the LP kit if it's compatible.

If the cable is smouldering, wouldn't that damage the clamp-on meter?

Only if the technician runs when they see smoke.

OK, just to clarify some tracks that went a bit off base.

That SPECIFIC pump / motor is 230V 1 phase 60Hz, and it is "3 wire". That means that the motor requires a specific "control box" that is made for it, which goes above ground. The control box will have the starting capacitor and a potential relay in it for that single phase capacitor start motor. (Side note, if you do NOT have that control box, you cannot start this pump.)

The motor FLA is shown as being 9.7A, LRA is 41.2A. Motor RUNNING voltage drop cannot exceed 10%, very typical for ESP motors (ESP = Electric Submersible Pump), but there is NO mention of caring about voltage drop on starting. All they really care about is that the motor gets to speed, as defined by the current dropping from LRA to normal, in under 10 seconds.

The generator is rated at 5250W continuous, 6500W (6.5kW) "surge capacity". When that motor is in a Locked Rotor (starting) condition, the WATTS seen by that generator will be somewhere between 1.8 and 2.8kW (41.2A x 230V, but with a .2 to .3 PF). That generator will NOT have any problem or issue handling that, the motor will not be getting a voltage drop, this is not really a big deal at all.

Thanks. OP will have to take it from here.