Adding Nozzle to Existing FRP Tank

"If it is possible to add, please explain how we can add new nozzles."

Step 1. Find the file containing the paperwork (Drawings, Specifications, Purchase Order, etc.) for the Tank

Step 2. Read everything in the file (including the contact information for the company that built the Tank)

Step 3. Contact the company that built the Tank

Step 4. Ask them this question "I want to utilize an old FRP tank in stock for a current project. The previous nozzles would be closed if not at suitable elevations. But the problem is to add new nozzles. As per my knowledge new nozzle can only be added by FRP tank manufacturer or may be cannot be added at all. Is that true? If so, can you add a new nozzle for us"

Its an old stock. Anyhow I will try to follow the steps you described in detail.

Thanks.

Good. Once the data is to hand, use the telephone. It's quick, interactive, and one gets to speak to a real human being.

Is the tank under any pressure besides that of liquid height?

@Tornado

The tank is atmospheric. Beside liquid height there is no pressure.

Have you ever performed any GRP (FRP) laying before?

Unless this tank is subjected to harsh chemicals or mechanical loads then GRP mods are straight forward with a little care, manual dexterity and a tolerance to irritants.

There are also nozzles available that just require drilling (hole sawing) and screwing on if the tank and the application is fit for these.

What's your tank for, sizes, stuff like that ?

@Wal

We just buy FRP tanks from manufacturers.

The tank is for wastewater treatment. For flocculation a chemical will be dosed in it.

it has 2 meter dia and 3.5 meter height.

We have used a variety of fiberglass tanks for storage of liquid ingredients and finished products for years and on occasion we have had to add an additional port to one. As noted earlier, it's not that hard to do but area preparation (full cleaning of the surface, roughing it up to promote resin adhesion) and selecting the compatible resin for the product that will be in the tank is critical to a successful job. Your Safety Department may have issue with your mechanics using fiberglass/resin without a LOT of ventilation and safety gear and it may be much easier and, in the end, lower cost to just contact the manufacturer (or a reputable tank repair shop) and have them perform the work. If you are starting from ground zero and don't have any personal experience with any shop or company that does this ask them for references and follow-up before you give them authorization to come on site and cut into your tank, a poor crew will cause you nothing but grief for a long time. The screw in fitting that was referred to earlier is sometimes called a bulkhead fitting and these come in a variety of materials and sizes and are available (at lease in the States) from most plumbing supply houses, McMaster Carr, etc. These fittings are usually under $50 (many around $10) making this an extremely quick and inexpensive upgrade compared to the fiberglass option (once you screw in and tighten the fitting against the supplied gasket, it's ready to use, no need to wait for the resin to cure). Since you are using this in wastewater, you do not need to worry about a sanitary finish between the fitting and the tank and this option should work fine for you. Just make sure to follow confined space protocols when installing to insure breathable atmosphere before you begin and lock out everything! It doesn't sound like this will be an issue for you but if the tank is heat traced, make sure they pay attention to what they are doing and do not drill through the heat wrap, creating another opportunity for you. Regards.

Those adaptors are the easy way to go provided there is a flat portion on the tank wall for them to tighten up against. They won't seal on a curved surface (unless you epoxy them in place and then you're back where you started.....)

If there are flat bits to exploit in the right place on the tank face then go for it.

Thanks to everybody for expert views and advises.