Problems with my '98 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L

Take it to the crusher before it's too late.....it's obviously possessed....

....and,, not in a good way.....

Check the ground systems especially the bond cables.

If I'm not mistaken these things had printed wiring panels under the dash (copper printed onto thin plastic sheets) and if I remember right there is one that goes to the cluster that run between the brake arm and the steering column, if it gets displaced it can short out to either one of those but in this case it sounds like it's rubbing the brake pedal arm.

But as i've seen here before we really don't know without being able to put our hands on it.

Good luck.

sounds like a solar flare

That's because he put SUNoco gas in the tank.

Well it's sounds like a ground wire is not making a good connection, or possibly a short, as mentioned....I would start at the battery and remove the - side and clean the connection, then trace the ground and remove and clean all the connections....I like to use some conductive grease on all the electrical connections to guard against corrosion.... Just having had the engine replaced would lead to most likely the problem, the mechanics are usually in a hurry and don't take time to clean the electrical connections before connecting them....

Here are the points on in the engine compartment you want to ground.
1. Battery to firewall.
2. Battery to R strut tower.
3. Battery to throttle body.
4. Throttle body to head.
5. Head to exhaust.
6. Battery to L strut tower.
7. Strut tower to alternator.
8. Strut to distributor

http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/engine_wiring_harness/chevrolet/cavalier.html

Internet auction sites (names withheld) are great for solving problems like this. One simply lists the vehicle with some photos, and in a few days someone shows up with some money, swaps it for the vehicle, and takes the problem away.

GA

My best guess is in that area(s) too...

I think that a ground could even be completely missing and there are "accidental" grounds (my wording!) that are happening, but as movement & vibration happens, it/they is/are "moved" slightly, resistance changes.

I would guess that its one (or more) from the engine/gearbox to the frame/chassis, often across an engine mount....

Seen that years ago on an Opel of a work colleague....it was simply undrivable....

If a quick check does not find one missing broken or badly installed ground strap, he should pick a spot and put one in....Picking big bolts on both sides, with a lot of surface/contact area and good thread locking, maybe with a smear of something to prevent corrosion....

Such cables, though seemingly simple, are almost a science on their own if they are to remain making good contact over many years.....two are better than one I feel....

Just a thought, I have never tried it myself, but might copper brake paste be a good way of slowing corrosion and making a good contact? Just a thought!! Anyone tried it? Is it conductive in such situations?

I had a quick look on the web and it appears to be conductive......

I use a slight smear on wheel bolts/nuts to prevent them corroding on in winter time....road salt!! Since then (many years) I have not ever had a bolt or nut corrode on/in....but many here are worried that they might loose a wheel.....

You must just be careful that it does not get on the contact surface between the nut/bolt and the wheel. There should be enough contact to stop anything rotating....

If you are not sure, do it up tight, remove it and clean off where it should not be.

Before I used that tip from a mechanic, I was changing occasionally a bolt out due to corrosion welding and problems removing the nut!! Not often, but still worrying. Especially wife driving, late at night and a flat!!!

Have a great day, you were to my mind first and best in your assessment....

Could Dolly Parton help, perhaps?

"the Second I put my car into drive or reverse"

That statement makes it likely that it's something near the gearshift lever, likely a loose or dirty connector. Keep in mind that the shift lever may have linkages that end up elsewhere so follow these to their end points. In other words, the gear shift may be below the center console, but the transmission is to the left of the engine and up front. There are links, cams, choke cables and/or levers that take the motion from the gearshift and pass it on to the transmission. Any wiring or connections near there may be bumped or nudged by the linkages making this problem intermittent. Connectors can be loosened, wires can be scraped. It takes some looking around to find the problem.

That is true. Putting the car into drive or reverse causes torque reaction and a shift of the engine/trans mounts. Bad bonds show up when this happens.

Its a Cavalier, what do you expect?

I bought a Chevy Cavalier 'new' in 2003 (for an outstanding price, I must add) ...... it just turned-over 210,000 miles recently

Never had any serious problems, just typical parts replacement from normal wear-&-tear. Overall, I am VERY satisfied with this Chevy/GM product.

IMHO, there is way too much Cavalier bashing out there

"IMHO, there is way too much Cavalier bashing out there"

There is, huh?

Just how much Cavalier bashing would be the correct amount?

In the experience of this forum, your particular Cavalier is the 'Inverse Lemon', the one-in-a-hundred-cars that isn't a POS.

Parts can be found by using a rake along any major highway.

"The heartbreak of America"

The only reason Chevrolet made so many Cavaliers was because people kept buying them. And, if it ain't broke, why fix it. The Cavalier was an inexpensive car that was more affordable than a BMW of similar size. Was it as good as a BMW? No. But it was reasonably reliable.

As for all the bashing here, well the problems with Cavaliers are self fulfilling. The more problems we get, the more people find CR4 and send more problems here. If I sent in ten problems with my Ford Taurus, then more people would find CR4 when searching for Taurus problems, and we would soon be the Taurus experts.

BTW, Welcome to the insanity. Enjoy the ride.

As stated, make certain that the grounds are in place, and tight. Use a volt meter and be sure. Another thing to check after the grounds is a bad ignition switch.GM uses two complete circuits one for ignition, and another for accessories. Again, use a volt meter on the fuse for the radio, and go through the whole reverse thing while watching. If the voltage drops off, try wiggling the ignition key. Good luck.

Another area to check, if you have a tilt steering wheel in this car, you may want to open up the plastic surround on the lower steering column and thoroughly inspect the wire harness from the steering wheel down to where it plugs into the master harness. Particularly at the tilt knuckle, checking for electrical shorts, broken or open wires.

Thanks guys for all the input... I am hoping to get it sorted out and without much cost... I just burned the fuel pump out on it, getting that fixed today... I'll see if the guy fixing my pump has any ideas to what it might be, maybe something he can fix too.

Your fuel pump has nothing to do with problems you've described in the OP, in fact the problems in the OP just might be effecting the fuel pump too. Good luck with it.

Too true!!

While he is in there, you might want to have him replace the steering column, engine harness and battery cables. No reason to take chances when buying and installing new parts is so profitable for mechanics.