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Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/22/2014 6:28 AM

Hello everyone,

Can anyone please share me the literature having oxyaccetylene cutting parameters?

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#1

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/22/2014 7:27 AM

Instead, I recommend that you get some torches and simply experiment with them.

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#12
In reply to #1

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 7:44 AM

Normally, when you buy a set, they will come with a manual and instruction guides on what the recommended parameters are for various thicknesses of material.

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#13
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Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 7:51 AM

Why are you telling me this?

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#2

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/22/2014 9:52 AM

You should learn how to use a search engine.

84,000 results will be available to you.

Oxyacetylene Welding (OAW)

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#3

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/22/2014 12:58 PM

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#4

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/22/2014 3:51 PM

Be very careful not to catch the money inside on fire!

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#26
In reply to #4

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/24/2014 2:54 AM

drill a hole in the top fill it with water... the money can be dried later. nice cleaned laundry money yuk yuk yuk...

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#5

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/22/2014 8:38 PM

Two parameters. It works! It does not work!

Oxyaccetylene cutting is an art. You either can do it or not.

Further parameter are: Bottle full, half full or empty.

Mind the safety instructions.

The rest is trial and error!

I will write the book later.

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#6

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/22/2014 10:35 PM

You will need to pay attention to the draw down rate of your cylinder as this will determine what parameters you can use, we no longer use acetylene at all in the factory we use lpg for all our cutting and heating as it is safer. You cant get the same heat from lpg but do you need it?

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#7

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/22/2014 10:35 PM

Check out Chapter 6 of TM 9-237.

https://archive.org/stream/TM9-237#page/n1/mode/2up

Now, drop and give me ten !!

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#8
In reply to #7

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/22/2014 11:03 PM

I chuckled when I read the part about not painting commercial tanks olive drab.

Good find.

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#9

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 12:17 AM

The best ever book, "the Bible" on Oxy-Acetylene Cutting is 'The Oxy-Acetylene Handbook" originally published by Union Carbide. Three editions have been printed so far. 1943, 1960 and 2000. Check Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/The-Oxy-Acetylene-Handbook-Third-Edition/dp/0914096109

The second edition has 581 pages of everything you need to know, want to know or want to be an expert on the subject. I personally recommend it if you really want to have a easy reading instructional and reference book on the subject written by people who know what they are talking about. This will have all the parameters you could ever want on the subject My 2nd edition is well worn, frayed, has slag burn holes on it and the cover is burnt a little. I still might list in my will when I die.

There are many other "small handy-man" type books but they are for the beginner or the artist.

Good Luck, Old Salt

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#10

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 1:14 AM

Buy a plasma cutter.....even a child can use one of those....unless of course you do not have a power source. If this is the case, please disregard my suggestion.

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#11

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 1:57 AM

The part that I find most beginners have trouble with is the adjustment of the torch and the regulators, and there is not a lot of info on the web about that.

So here are some basics to get you started.

1. Make sure all valves (3 off) on the torch are turned off.

2. Turn the Acetylene tank valve on about 1/2 turn only.

3. Turn Oxygen tank valve on completely.

4. Adjust regulators for Acetylene to around 7 PSI and Oxygen to around 25 PSI static.

On the hand piece:-

5. Turn the main oxygen valve (the one nearest the hoses) on completely.

6. Turn the Acetylene valve (the other one near the hoses) on only slightly until you hear a bit of a hiss from the nozzle.

7. Light the fire, you will get a fair bit of black smoke and soot at this point, get the flame about 12 inches long.

8. Adjust the smaller Oxygen valve (further up the gun) very carefully until you get a clean flame with sharp blue points. It's not unusual to accidentally extinguish the flame at this point due to being a bit too keen with the Oxygen, but persistence pays off. It's better to have a little less Oxy than too much as you can burn the nozzle.

You normally try to have the blue flame around the same length as the thickness of the steel to be cut, if you can't get it big enough, you need a larger tip.

9. Apply heat to the piece to be cut keeping the blue points just clear of the surface, remember that the tip of the blue is the hottest part of the flame.

10. When the metal is glowing a nice shade of red, press the lever on the gun, this will eject Oxygen out of the central hole and the metal will be removed. If it is not a clean removal, you may need a bit more Oxy pressure, or you may need to heat the cut line a bit more before pressing the lever.

As others have stated, practice is the best way to get it right.

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#14
In reply to #11

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 9:36 AM

Very clear explanation, a good answer from me.

This is definitely more helpful then simply refer to Google….

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#15
In reply to #14

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 9:43 AM

I don't believe the OP wants to learn how to weld, or cut.

This is their only other post: Welding Procedure Specifications

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#28
In reply to #11

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/29/2014 3:53 PM

Just a few additional points:

(prior to #1) check manufactures recommended tip size for the material you are about to cut. A #5 tip for a 3/16" thick sheet is way too much and will only cause difficulties.

(also prior to #1) A make sure the regulators and the torch are equipped with the appropriate check valves and/or flashback arrestors. This prevents reverse flow back to the cylinders.

(also prior to #1) Check the hoses for leaks, thin spots or blemishes. Make sure the hoses are placed as far away from the cutting area as possible. A leak in either hose will ruin your day! Don't let the slag fall onto the hoses and create potentially explosive situations.

6. If the acetylene "hisses" when you turn it on you probably have it set too high for a beginner or someone not familiar with the torch. Better to start small and adjust the acetylene/oxygen in steps till you get up to the flame you want.

End of #8. After adjusting the torch to the sharp blue flames, open the oxygen cutting valve on the torch all the way or to the setting you will be using and readjust the small blue flames. Opening the cutting valve will probably reduce the amount of oxygen to the heating flame. Set it to where you will be using the torch when cutting.

At end, yes practice, practice and more practice makes perfect, or at least better. Have someone who knows how to cut nearby so you don't pick up any bad habits.

Not being critical, just wanted to mention a couple of hopefully good additional things to otherwise an excellent answer. A GA for you!

Good Luck, Old Salt

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#16

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 9:52 AM

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/cutting-torch-safety.html

^This should give you all you need to know!

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#17

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 10:29 AM

There are several basics of oxyacetylene outfit set up njot mentioned.

1. It is assumed that the regulators are atytached to the cylinders (not bottles, tanks, etc.).

2. Before opening the cylinder valves the regulator adjusting handles must be fully backed off.

3. Slowly open cylinder valves.

4. Adjust regulators to correct operating pressures.

5. Purge both opxygen and acetylene hose through the torch.

6. Make sure all torch valves are off.

7. Turn on the torch acetylene valve and light with a striker.

8. Adjust acetylene flame.

9. Turn on oxygen torch valve and adjust to correct flame characteristics.

10. Regulator pressures may have to be readjusted.

Has anyone seen a regulator orn hoses that has been blowen apart by not following proper procedure>

Yar

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#18

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 10:33 AM

I use oxyacetylene for gas welding only, switched to oxypropane for cutting as a 110 cuft acet. at current prices (140.00) vs 5 gal propane (12.40). (not sure how many cuft that equates to, but for cutting or brazing outlasts acet. at about 80-1. You must use a different style cutting tip (polypropalene)with propane. There is a company that makes a system that uses gasoline for cutting which is a money saver AND it produces a dross free cut. It used to be one of the top items on my wish list. For a clean removal of weld without destroying the underlying material I break out the ArcAir, a carbon rodholder with an airblast to remove what you melt with the arc...the noise it makes really freaks the neighbors. Recently acquired a plasma cutter for light work, it's amazing the materials other than metal you can use it on.

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#19

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 10:45 AM

Is it also possible to cut stainless steel with oxy-accetylene ?

Why or why not ?

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#22
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Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 3:57 PM

Yes. Why not?

It's probably slightly easier to cut stainless since it is less thermally conductive.

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#27
In reply to #22

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/24/2014 9:38 AM

"Yes. Why not?

It's probably slightly easier to cut stainless since it is less thermally conductive."

HA! These statements are a good example of why we need a '' NOT a good answer!'' button. Or maybe it's just a 'senior moment'!

Sorry about posting anonymously.

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#23
In reply to #19

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 4:09 PM

Yes it is, but not in the same way as you would cut carbon or low alloy steel. The problem arises due to the process by which Oxy acetylene does the job.

Contrary to popular belief, the jet of Oxygen from the central nozzle of the torch doesn't just blow the molten steel out of the cut, it actually considerable raises the temperature of the steel by oxidizing it, this causes it to burn and almost fall out. The jet of Oxy also helps in this removal of the slag.

With this in mind, consider that Stainless steel is an alloy of steel and other ingredients such as Chromium etc. Chromium has a much higher fusion temperature than the steel. This results in the steel fusing long before the Chromium has reached sufficient temperature to do so. Therefore no oxidation takes place and thus no cutting. If you do manage to achieve any penetration, it is usually a very ragged mess of molten and burnt metal.

One way that can be employed to cut stainless steel with an Oxy torch is to lay iron powder along the cut, (there was once a torch which ejected iron powder as it went, but I haven't seen one for a long time). This powder oxidizes early and raises the temperature of the underlying metal sufficiently to make a better cut. Still not ideal, better to use Plasma, Laser or maybe water jet if you want a clean cut.

Another problem with Oxy cutting, or even heat bending stainless steel is that once it reaches the red stage its chemical characteristics have altered such that its corrosion resistance is diminished to a point that it can now quite easily rust.

Most heat cut metal edges will also become hardened, and sufficient material should be left after the cut to allow for grinding back of that edge to prevent cracking.

Another small tip, when starting a cut in the centre of a plate, drill a small hole first, the oxy cut will start much more easily from that hole.

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#24
In reply to #23

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 4:21 PM

I'll defer to you. It looks like you've cut much more than I have, which admittedly was just a couple of times and the sheet was thin.

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#25
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Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 9:43 PM

Thanks

and GA for you.

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#29
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Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/31/2014 12:16 AM

In regards to resultant hardening the stainless steel, slow cooling hardens

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#20

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 2:15 PM
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#21

Re: Oxyaccetylene Cutting

10/23/2014 3:19 PM

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