Repair PVC Fitting

You can get one of these little gems. Quite the time saver.

Oh crap! Just noticed that these sockets are for DWV, so they won't handle any pressure. Might work if your break is not on the pressure side of the pump. Otherwise with PVC that is solvent-adhesive connected, the only reliable fix is to replace everything back to where there is a mechanical joint or threads.

Unfortunately the clamps that are referenced are not suitable for use with any type of pressure installation, maximum pressure is 4.3 psi from manuf. literature. If a clamp repair is to be used for a pressure situation a "Skinner" type clamp (expensive) or a stainless steel band clamp of suitable pressure rating.

http://catalog.muellercompany.com/Catalog/230-Series-Stainless-Steel-MiniBand-Repair-Clamps-for-Small-Diameter-Tubing-and-Pipe-Features-Pg-154/491

http://catalog.muellercompany.com/Catalog/1224-200-Series-Repair-Clamps-Ordering-Information-Pg-156/494

http://catalog.muellercompany.com/Catalog/212-540-Series-AllSS-Single-Section-FullSeal-Finger-Lug-Clamps-and-Miscellaneous-Equipment-CI-DI-Steel-AC-PVC-Pipe-Ordering-Information-Pg-1516/503

Several other type clamps would also be possible to use.

With the description he has given, with several fittings, he may be best making a temporary repair with a fiberglass based pipe wrap repair kit. Easy to use, will handle pressure, can be used in other than straight pipe situation, comparatively inexpensive and can be used for long term temporary repairs.

http://www.piperepair.net/products/leak-repair/

Whatever temporary method he uses he should plan on making a permanent repair of replacing all defective or broken parts before opening the pool in spring or when the pool can be shut down for pipe repairs. This is what I would plan on doing if it was my pool. Murphy's Law always intervenes in situations like this!

Good Luck, Old Salt

Another more crude but highly successful leak patch I have used is a piece of pvc pipe modified to have the same i.d. as the o.d. of the leaking pipe. There are commercial fittings for this but the self made patch works very well.

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/pipe-repair.html pvc saddle t

The crude but effective method is to cut a piece of pvc pipe the same size as the cracked/broken pipe and to the necessary repair length plus some extra length. Cut the pipe lengthwise in half. If possible use a piece of steel pipe for the next step. Heat the pvc patch (1/2 circumference and excess length piece) till it softens but doesn't stretch. Use the pipe to be repaired or the metal pipe as a form and press the patch piece on till it's inside becomes the the od of the form pipe.

Clean and prime the O.D. of the pipe with the hole in it and the inside of the patch piece. Make sure mating surfaces are primed and have excess glue on them. Put the patch on and hold it firmly in place with several, if not more, hose clamps. When the glue dries and sets remove all but a few clamps and your pipe is patched.

Actual time to make this type of repair is about half the time it took you to read this procedure. I have used it numerous times and have always been successful. As the pressure of the system gets higher leave more pipe clamps on the patch piece when it dries.

Good Luck, Old Salt

Yeah, the make in situ bell end pipe socket trick. Saves on joiners, both in the repair's lineal length and the cost.

PVC piping is a breeze if you have a heat gun.

Is the valve a screw in connection, or slip?.If it's a slip fitting on a pvc valve, it seems a waste of time, too many things can go wrong....I've done this on brass and pvc screw in fittings in a pinch, no need for heat....

No, but I can tell you how I've repaired them in this situation before, on everything from a 1/2" Sch 80 pipe just a week ago up to 2" fittings.

Make sure the elbow is rigidly supported. Take a drill and set a small bit, about 1/2 the thickness of the pipe, into the chuck so it extends the depth the pipe goes into the elbow. If the pipe is broken or sawed of so that some of it still sticks out an inch or so, that's best.

Drill into the pipe CAREFULLY at , so that you are making a hole lengthwise with the pip as close to the pipe/fitting interface as possible. Once you are the depth of the pipe, use the drill bit like a mill to cut sideways into the pipe (I find it works best to rock it, go easy as small bits break easily). Best to do this where there is less pipe left in the fitting.

You will need to repeat this about 1/5 of the way around the pipe on each side, then either grab in between with pliers (if you can) and twist or else use a couple of narrow slot screwdrivers like chisels at to pop one of the sections off. This will be much easier if the installer did not prime the fitting before gluing!

The point is to get the pieces to break through and curl inside the fitting. Once you get one started you should be able to repeat and break the glue bond around the pipe by twisting and/ or prying. I've also used a sawszall with a short blade to make the kerfs in the past , but find drilling does less damage to the fitting.

This works at least 80% of the time for me, usually takes 15- 20 minutes.

Yea, it is a slip connection. So, the only option is to somehow remove the broken pipe from the fitting. The Youtube video seemed to be a pretty viable solution but I was wanting to see if anyone had actually used this particular method.

Due to the way the fittings and valves were installed (butted to each other) the only other option is to replace the entire complex of pipes, valves and fittings.

GA!

Great link! It is the easiest way I've seen yet!

I've been doing it the hard way,by sawing the inner piece first.

Solar Eagle, that was a funny video. The guy heats up a piece of Thin Wall Schedule 20 and extracts it from a 1 1/2 Mip x Slip . Did you notice how the long axis of the valve is placed, " Vertically" in the vise ? More than likely, the long axis of the valve the poster represents, is in a horizontal position, so the flame spread will rise up.

That's one way we do it here too. I think using the glue's solvent as the fuel for heating is a brilliant improvisation.

We also use electric hot air guns and propane torches but the long nose plier twist out/off is the key.

The next video after I watched that shows the use of a heat gun, which is what I've seen most pro's use. I have also seen propane torches used but that is trickier.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DGRKMfUbwQ

You can use a union to join the pipe at any point in the middle of the piping by this method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=venC56OlYX8

Good luck!

That video uses unnecessary socket to thread adaptors, and threaded unions.

The SxT adapters are not needed. SxS unions work just fine with PVC pipe.

I did use TxT unions on my threaded 2" brass gate valves to make them true union valves.

I've never used the burnt glue removal method, but it looks like a winner to me.

"I've never used the burnt glue removal method, but it looks like a winner to me."

It works fine on a pipe oriented as the one in the video, but try it on a pipe that is the other way up or horizontal and the results will be far less satisfying.

Still, worth a try.

Because I put all my pool plumbing together with unions, I can take mine apart.

Certainly the way to go. Design the piping and fittings for disassembly as well as assembly. Did the same with the 20x40ft pool at my old house and never regretted it. Guy next door had one too and he was always asking me to fix the piping. His was designed and installed by a pool laborer. Half union ball valves and full union ball are also the way to go.

Good Luck, Old Salt

One thing that Lyn didn't mention is that PVC threaded connections will pressure weld themselves together. Always use teflon tape on the threads. I've seen far too many threaded connections that needed to be cut out because of this.

ive used a tool called a ram bit to remove pvc pipe from fittings. it worked well for me. look up pvc ram bit.

Cool tool. Tough luck if you're in a tight spot though.

Ram bits work great. They've saved me a lot of time and money over the years. GA for coming up with the answer first.

Ram bit looks like a cool tool! But you can also just cuts slits in the broken pipe, enough slits so you can pull or pry its pieces out, using a Sawzall reciprocating saw or even a jigsaw with a long blade

Also check for "PVC Fitting Saver". (Similar to a Ram Bit) It is a drill attachment that drills out the broken pipe. I've used them successfully several times at our wastewater plant.

When I was doing plumbing repairs the supply house I used sold reamers for PVC pipe for just this type of situation. I'm assuming it was a common repair tool. If not, the supplier I used was Modern Plumbing in Jersey City, NJ

PVC can also be welded by special heat guns and filler rod, if you can prepare a proper groove and depressurize the system. "Splash Zone" might also work, but I don't know its pressure limitations.

Yes, it can.

I'd suggest some test welds first. It's not rocket science, but it is not forgiving either.

And it isn't like welding metal.

G'day Don, i've removed glued in pipe with the glue set alight system quite often. It is very simple and quick. You need to have a bit sticking out to grab with pliers to get started. The good thing is that a 'normal' layer of glue is about right for the job, regardless of size. I have done it when the tube is horizontal using a wet rag placed on top of the fitting. You do need to have strong wrists as the glue doesn't let go easily.

Jim

Couple of questions: Did the pipe break due to: Water Hammer, Stress, Bad Design, Ice, external impact? Because each reason will lead to a different suggestion for the repair/replacement. Photos would be helpful.

A 'properly' assembled PVC pipe joind cannot be disassembled. The best thing to do might be to replace the valve... Levco, Namco, etc, can replace most filter valves.

Next time do not weld the elbow directly to the valve. If space is *really* tight use a nipple and a threaded pair before the elbow. If space is available it's better to use a union. This way even if the elbow breaks again, you don't have to replace the the complex filter valve.

Pool plumbing isn't a contest to see how tightly the pipes can be installed. (Unless you *sell* replacement pool equipment for a living.) The install should be designed with all the care of a chemical processing plant. Consideration for the location of bends will provide a more pleasant pool-owning experience, it will also save lots of electricity over the life of the pool.

JIMRAT: Thanks mate. I think my son's situation is complicated because the elbow is mounted vertically. So, the heat would move up and towards the valve.

TICK-TOCK: I'm not sure what caused the damage. My son told me about the problem and I went over and looked at the damage. I agree that installing fittings with no clearance is a problem. I always leave enough pipe exposed for repair. Unfortunately, the pool installation guy installed the fittings up against the fittings. Hence, the problem. So, the pipe will have to be removed from the fitting. If not, all of the valves and fittings will have to be replaced. Expensive.

Thanks to all for your comments.

Don

They are hard to find, but there are glue in couplings that go down the inside if the pipe just for that situation. If flow is super critical, they do reduce the I.D. a little. Be sure there is no mechanical strain on the pipe and let er rip! -- JHF