Can Anyone Guide? Why Electric Heater Burst by the Help of Attached Water Picture

Potable water? Unlikely, though one cannot see the elements from here. Photographs of the failure(s) would be invaluable.

Is the equipment still under manufacturer's warranty? If so, then the first step is always a telephone call to the manufacturer.

Thanks . Just need to know that this chemical analysis can damage satinless Steel or not?

Regards,

Anything can damage anything if the conditions are right. Please describe the outcome of the telephone discussion with the manufacturer, as recommended in #1 above.

Push this through a water jet at 30,000 to 90,000 PSI and stainless steel will be sliced like butter. You could also have dissimilar metal corrosion as a culprit where stainless steel was the anode in a reaction. (Not likely.) It depends on many things this solution analysis does not tell us at all.

I sure wouldn't drink it....but the ph looks good....needs chlorination...

Would check for proper voltage and wiring, as well as lightning protection and proper grounding.....

Some other possible causes:
--water level went low so heater was no longer submerged
--solids accumulation covered heater

Do you have an expansion tank on the line to absorb the expansion of the water when it is heated?

You don't have much luck with water heaters

http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/105494

Your question is very ambiguous at first glance.

Do you mean the tank fails,or the heater element fails?

I first thought that the tank had failed.

Now I understand it to be the heater elements that failed.

Is that correct?

If so,then check for the proper voltage at the terminals of the heater element when in service.

Make sure that the designed voltage for the heaters is correct for your supply voltage.

Make certain that the tank never goes dry,or that the water never goes below the elements.

Water heater elements are very high energy density,and if exposed to air with power applied,they will self destruct.

If corrosion is the problem,use stainless heaters,and a sacrificial anode(usually magnesium) to prevent erosion of the element .

Also be certain that the tank is PROPERLY grounded,and that the main panel ground is also grounded and BONDED.

If the plumbing is metal pipe,the ground rod must be bonded to the metal piping with a sufficient sized conductor.

If the heater is fed from a sub-fed panel,the sub-fed panel must NOT be bonded from grounded to grounding.

If you do not know the difference between grounded and grounding conductor,then learn it or consult a QUALIFIED electrician or inspector.

I stress properly grounded because if not done right,it can cause corrosion of the elements due to voltage gradients.

Good luck.(Although knowledge and skill will be more helpful)

So its happened again. I would seriously look at your heater element supplier, your application and your installation process as one or more is not correct or of high enough quality.

Best you have a detailed analysis on these failures performed before this happens a third time.

Contact the manufacturer, it really sounds like the heater is of poor construction or not suitable for the application.

There's no way water of that analysis would have destroyed the heater in 25 days. As others have said, most likely cause is water level falling below.

You say tap water. The report says it's unfit to drink (as you can see from the figures). I'd make sure everybody knows or you could have a bigger problem than a busted heater.

Insufficient information. Take another look at your water heater. If you boil the water you will accumulate a pocket of air. Most water heaters are designed to deliver cold water to the bottom of the tank and take hot water from the top of the tank to eliminate the possibility of air accumulation. This is accomplished by a tube inserted from the top for the pipe that is supposed to carry cold water to the bottom. The tube can usually be moved from the "input" connection to the "output" connection if you plumbing arrangement does not match the orientation of your input and output lines.

Some other thoughts:

Do you have a proper pressure (gas) relief valve attached to your water heater?

Electric heating elements are never supposed to be operated in air.

Given the time it takes, it sounds like you need to check on the placement/condition of the cold water delivery tube.