Polypropylene Adhesive

3M hot melt seems really good....

https://www.christinedemerchant.com/coroplast-glue-test.html

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/44021O/hot-melt-bonding-systems-guide.pdf

https://www.hotmelt.com/blogs/blog/the-ultimate-3m-hot-melt-glue-stick-guide

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polypropylene

Hot melt is great, for joining polyolefins (PP and PE) to each other because that's what many are.

It does not stick to glass, however.

I wouldn't stick it to the glass...I would use strips of plastic to join all the pieces, then secure the framework to the roof by mechanical means....IE: screws....Why would you permanently deface the structure....

Because OP wants, "affordable adhesive that will stick the poly to the glass."

Well I think that would be ill-advised....

Tell that to the OP who,"with a combination of high tack double sided tape and gorilla tape I installed over the glass."

I'm just trying to help the guy do what he wants to do.

I can also think of alternate ways to do things, but that wasn't the question.

We also have no idea of the actual construction of the roof. Bonding the panels directly to the glass may be the simplest solution here.

Well I'm not convinced this is actually even necessary to begin with...but if the Jazzman feels more comfortable with these panels as a safety measure, then that is his prerogative....but permanently ruining the aesthetic appeal of the structure, when it's not necessary, seems to be in poor judgement to me....but that's just my opinion...

I'd like to know the impact rating of the glass, paired against the expected assault load of the impending hail...Down here in Florida we have impact resistant glass, and it can take a pounding, I would suspect that any roof made out of glass would have to be impact resistant...

I think I would just coat the glass with one of these Hanita Tek Window films....

https://www.starcodistributing.com/pages/hanitatek-window-films

...or if you want to go one step further, replace the panes with Armor Plast , it's the ultimate...though possibly overkill for the budget minded homeowner....still cool...

No offense to Jazzman, but he may be like me: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I agree, why are we trying to "fix" something that isn't broken?

I don't often side with Solar Eagle, but in this case I do. Assuming the builder got permits for this structure. Chances are the glass is designed to uphold to all but the most massive hail storm and loading levels. No need for the extra protection. And on a home exterior you would want to take in consideration the looks.

Uh, ok, I could be wrong....

Hot glue will stick to glass if the glass is preheated before the glue is applied.

I use a lot of hot melt of several varieties and find that in most cases hot melt will not adhere well to a cold surface. However, once the surface is preheated, the hot melt will wet and flow on the surface, be it glass, aluminum or steel and then is very difficult to remove.

This clear polycarbonate roofing material is thin and lightweight, but surprisingly tough. It will withstand hail. I used a white translucent version (UV resistant) for a shed and it's still good after 10 years, and lots of rain and snow, and a few hail storms. It's not expensive.

Perhaps you can install it over the glass.

http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/product/clear-corrugated-polycarbonate/greenhouse-polycarbonate-sheets

Check out HB Fuller for their line of adhesives....

They have a reactive and thermoplastic polyolefin hot melts for bonding unprimed polypropylene.

This is a partial ceiling view that shows the glass pattern, what it doesn’t show is the steepness of the pitch, I used two colors of gorilla tape to secure the perimeter of each pp panel , the white tape is still holding , the black tape on the skylites with black trim failed after one year. The Coroplast is a good solution to block the sun and reduce some heat gain . I’m thinking of ways to mechanical fasten as S E suggested . One of the smart building rules in his part of te country is to never install glass on a roof for several reasons 1 too much heat gain in summer 2 too much heat loss in winter 3 hail damage . I have had a wood privacy fence destroyed by hail, and every year thousands of car windshields with safety glass are wiped out . To make matters worse , the previous owner installed expensive wood flooring to be damaged by sun , and water if the windows are left open for ventilation

Could someone please copy and paste this picture. I've tried 3 browsers and my phone and none are working.

I also been getting that a lot lately here on CR4.

I wonder if there was a recent upgrade here that's been causing it.

Same with post #17

...copy and paste what picture?

you guys are shooting blanks....

....that chick has man hands....

Does that chick have Nebraska Man Hands?

No....her fingernails are clean.....haha

Just some thoughts which may or may not help.

First of all, I am curious where your house is located. Hail able to destroy a fence is impressive, though I knew a person with a Porsche with dimples (impressively deep) all over the roof after a storm. Bad storms appear in many places even if infrequently.

I once built a greenhouse for my wife using Plexiglas panels with two surfaces, spaced by about 16 mm using spacers molded into the structure. This survived 20 years of sun and hail. The double layer improves the insulation quality. You could get polycarbonate as well, and it is considerably tougher. The Plexiglas could be obtained with or without UV absorbing dye and probably the polycarbonate as well. The dye would reduce the bleaching by light and might be a benefit for reducing overexposure by sunlight and the associated risks to skin. The question is. can you easily add or substitute such material for your glass?

I worry about gluing plastic to glass on large panels. The thermal expansion coefficients differ a lot and the only moderately good bond could be routinely overstressed over a year of substantial temperature changes. The Plexiglas I mention above was sealed by gaskets and thus allowed some slippage in the presence of the different expansions. Also, water getting between glass and plastic is a pain possible if seals are not good enough in the right places.

I once glued a glass tube to polypropylene using hot glue and the bond seemed good (basically air-tight) but the job was small (about 40 mm diameter tubing in each material). The joint survived the temperature stress involved in the bonding process down to room temperature, but this piece was small. Would it work on your windows? I would not bet either way, especially over years of stress. Also, some nice, flexible plastics (PE as in some of these hot glues) get quite brittle when old and perhaps with aid of being in strong light, your situation.

Copy and paste is not working on this site , tried several times

Thanks for trying.

Pick out something on images that is close to what you have....

Is it like this?...

...or more like this...

Does it fly through the air?

sunrooms

First picture is close

If the glass has survived thus far in life, why do you think it is going to fail now? are you listening to public radio bs that is telling that global warming and how all weather is now going to get more and more powerful.. don't believe it. I listened in the other day, if you guys want a good laugh, listen in for an hour or so. the doom and gloom was amazing. they had the water rising 20 feet, all the food crops decimated because of the 2 degree rise in temperature, and millions of people dying... all this in an hour.. it was quite amazing actually.. i wonder if they actually believe it.. oh and if you start paying money to someone (probably the democratic party), all this will reverse... funny shit.

if you put anything over top of that glass, you are going to inevitably get water to penetrate and will cause it to condensate and even create an algae biome between the two pieces. its not a good idea, and there is really no reason for it as the glass that was used is most likely tempered.

I don't know about sticking it to the glass, xcept maybe a mechanicel tiedown, but you can thermal weld the polypro panels with good success..i have had real good luck welding polypro for a number of years.

Hi,

yes Gluing PP is problematic but there are a few products that can do the job

you can check with 3M VHB tapes group or 3M DP 8005 adhesives

also a UK co. TECBOND produces the special GLUE STICKS ( needs hot melt adhesive system heater and applicator ) DURABLUE

check with LOCTITE also

an easy way to fix 2 PP panels together also is by using a STAPLER

I hope above is enough to get you going.

good luck

I am not sure about exactly what you want.

Is it a watertight bonding adhesive you need that has strength able to hold the structure together in bad weather?

Or is the sunroom free-standing and only needs an adhesive to seal the joints to keep the rainwater out?

When in either case you need to make absolutely sure the surfaces to be bonded/sealed are first thoroughly cleaned.

..and something that can be applied easily and neatly ... and something where the surplus can be cleaned off - leaving a neat and tidy looking sunroom.

.... and last but not least - do you have the tools and skills to do the work yourself.

Amongst the various materials and methods already mentioned there will be something to do the job.

Good luck

Since aesthetics is not an issue why not the tried and true defense against storms?

I use a lot of coroplast. It comes in 4mm, 6mm and 10mm. Many colors and also opaque white. Bonding the stuff is tricky and I test everything I come across. Also note there is a ploycarbonate product that is a fluted design like coroplast except it will actually last..and be far more hail proof. But at $100 a sheet or so it's not cheap.

On to adhesion, Materseal NP 125 it's a BASF product. I mount everything to everything with this. This is an etching product and it will etch your glass... and bond to it.

I use something called Megatape banner tape and in many cases it is as good as 3M VHB. VHB is the benchmark double sided tape and priced like gold.

Your biggest problem is expansion rate of coroplast, an 8' sheet will grow .250" in length on a hot day. Even polycarbonate will grow half that or more. Because of this trying to "lock down" the entire perimeter is a bad idea. A sheet of plastic needs to be retained with trim so it can move and grow/shrink and stay flat.

When adhering to polypropylene always anneal with a torch.

Expansion of plastic sheeting isn't a real problem as it is "plastic" it will readily deform by buckling, unlike stiff materials like glass.

The house is located on the front range of Colorado Rocky Mountains . Golf ball size hail in micro burst wind will take out roofs , siding , windows , skylights , windshields , pole barn steel , crops and cedar privacy fences . It also depends on how hard the hail is . Softer hail will do less damage than rock hard hail . Imagine taking a ball pein hammer and beating on a cedar Picket or skylight. Coroplast is working perfectly and looks good. Just had trouble securing edges to the dark aluminum frame . The white aluminum areas seems to hold so far , though it’s probably temporary. Poly carb or plexiglas wont work because of the massive heat gain which makes this already solar oven room unbearable. This forum has given me some ideas and I think mechanical fasteners with trim around the perimeter will be something to consider . Thanks

Yes a stiles and rails type of mounting frame would allow for mechanical attachment and expansion and contraction of the panels....even anodized to match possibly

Investigate how the glass is held in. Several glazing bars i am familiar with use two part extrusions. The top part clicks in to place after the glass is installed. If you have that type you can unclip the top piece and fit a cut to size panel of Coroplast. You may have to beat the edges to make then thinner to enable the extrusion to click back into place. Worst case you may have to screw down the top piece after fitting the Coroplast.

Walking up the hips screwing down the top as you go requires good balance but otherwise it is an easy job.

Poly carb wont work because of the heat gain , this solar oven room is unbearable. I will Look at flashing to hold down coroplast. Thanks

Visit this page for a product that is more durable than Coroplast. http://polycarbonate.com.au/makrolon-twin-wall-polycarbonate/

To retrofit it on top of the existing glass i would simply cut to size and shape and screw down using 0.6mm steel flashing to clamp it to the aluminium glazing bars. I would guess the flashing would need to be bent at 135deg and be 75mm wide. Each edge should be bent up slightly so that the sharp edge doesn't cut into the sheet.

I have often fitted shade sails under the roof to keep the inside cooler. They can then be taken down in winter.

Jim

Thanks Solar Eagle , i will look for a suitable fix , i wish I could send pictures, but this site wont allow my iPad to copy and paste pictures , copy and paste text works ,does anyone else have this problem or suggestions

You have to save the picture as a .jpg or .bmp file in paint or another similar program, then select the file when prompted...So when you copy and paste, it must be to a paint like program first, because it has no address...Yes pictures would be helpful...

Here’s an update , the American made flex tape sticks really good. Just make sure not to get Chinese knock off