Can I Remove a Wall or Could it be Load Bearing?

Yes. Here's a very good idea: consult with a local building designer to assess removal of the wall and come up with structurally-sound solutions to this particular problem. The assessment of the designer can be relied upon for a commercial solution as regards liability were that solution proven in retrospect to have been in error. That liability cannot be covered by a bunch of anonymous strangers in different jurisdictions that wander all over the internet.

Generally, one gets what one pays for.

Can you get to any position where you can see the structures above the ceilings? For instance, is there an attic above the flat-ceiling part of the house?

Which way(s) do any roofline ridges run?

Even if the wall in question is load-bearing, there may be a way to bridge that with a beam, provided that the ends can be supported from adequate footings.

Not yet we move on thirsday two weeks time tha ks for the information

Well once you occupy this living space it will be difficult and expensive to remove this wall if it is not load bearing. If the wall is load bearing it will be much more difficult and much more expensive to remove that wall and replace the structural support it once provided.

My point, the question is really one of your budgets. It appears your budget of time is about to expire. Two weeks is not enough time to ascertain what kind of wall you have and to do something about it before you move in regardless of it being load bearing or not. If you accurately knew the wall was not load bearing, I'm not sure if two weeks would be enough time to mitigate the electrical circuits let alone anything else (plumbing, ventilation) found to reside in this wall.

If money is no object then even if this wall is load bearing, a structural engineer, architect or contractor will gladly entertain redesigning your house to the local codes, but not in sixteen days.

I don't need it done in two weeks. Time is no issue; the wall has no plumbing or electrical points, no water anywhere near the area and the wall is three quarters a cavity slider door cavity.

Well, the question remains: were this wall to disappear, will the building fall down (rhetorical question - NNTR)?

Only a local specialist can supply a commercial warranty on the answer to that question.

It is unfair to ask random internet surfers that cannot see the job to supply that warranty without a corresponding consideration. So, consult the specialist. It is the only way forward.

Just because you cannot see any utilities, does not mean there are none running through the space. Be careful of what you assume.

At first blush this appears to be a structural element. With the revelation that a four foot pocket door stores inside makes that less likely.

However, there could very well be a 9 foot long 20” Glu-Lam beam inside the wall over the door.

So, all comments regarding a professional inspection are valid, and I agree with them. You will, however, certainly be able to remove the wall pocket and associated framing. That would open this up quite a bit.

It appears that the floor patch will be considerable effort to really make this look right.

One room is a cathedral roof, the other side of the wall is a lowered roof (normal type). The wall contains a cavity slider for most of it.

https://www.wikihow.com/Tell-if-a-Wall-is-Load-Bearing

https://lifehacker.com/how-to-identify-a-load-bearing-wall-1626923331

My guess is that a load bearing wall runs the length of the home passing through the kitchen and across the dining room via engineered lumber? There may be visible and wrapped joist work here . or it could be hidden. If so, Your wall may be safe for removal.

That's a guess. Poking a hole in a few key places would answer those questions.

Alas I'm going off grid in an hour or so. So good luck!

It looks like you may have a load bearing truss wall.

Yours supports the ridge beam at an equal point between adjoining rooms.

A careful study of its construction, needs to be undertaken before any work proceeds.

Hire a construction firm with a PE for the job.

The other room on the other side is a normal roof: same width, no internal walls. Just a big, open room with a lower ceiling.

I would be shocked if that wall is not load bearing.

You may be shocked if you remove it without professional assessment.

need the same view but towards the kitchen a bit.

A simple floor plan diagram does not provide enough information to determine what interior walls are or are not load bearing.

...whereas a site survey and a report by a qualified local structural designer certainly will.

Yes, you can. Should you? I can't tell that from here.

Good luck!

This is a question you should not ask a bunch of strangers. There is too much at stake. You need to ask an architect or structural engineer. Even then, they will not warrantee their answer, unless you pay for a guaranteed answer. They are licensed by their state and that costs money. Don't expect them to do it for free. They cannot give you an affirmative yes without actually examining the house, as their reputation rides on their being right.

Im not asking for an affirmative shheeeshhh i asked a simple question ive had some very helpful advise that will enable me to decide if i need an engineer or not when i get in the roof. thank you very much to those that have added some helpful advise for me that have taught me some information about structure.... education is key i like to be aware of some of the issues prior to having a ”expert” come out to avoid being charged excessivly. ive found if you have half an idea you dont get ripped off

again thanks those that helped. those other negative nancies your comments do nothing to help!

As 3/4 of the wall is slider door cavity, it is unlikely to be load bearing, unless it is an very unusual slider door cavity.

If the cavity is not unusually thick and is not otherwise constructed of something like structural steel, it is almost certainly not load bearing, at least in the pocket door cavity part. If the wall is load bearing (once again barring some unusual pocket door cavity or some thick additional support) there will be a header that extends over both the existing opening and the cavity.

Removing just the 3/4 of the wall that is the pocket door cavity should be fine as long as there is no thick additional support and the pocket cavity is not some unusual load bearing type...of which i've never heard.

As for the remaining 1/4 of the wall, that will depend on whether it is load bearing or not.

Thanks. This was my thought: the cavity is a normal pine construct, no tracks at the bottom and just a top runner, very lightweight structure. My thoughts are the other side which is the kitchen (which is equal) is just a basic wall. A nib exists just to cover fridge spaces, cabinets don't go to the roof. We are happy to leave that side intact even to be able to remove the cavity alone because that will open up what we want.

Supporting walls are usually the exterior walls, unless there has been an addition, or if there are multiple levels. A quick check of the roof structure is in order. Load bearing walls extend to the rafters.

The internal structure of a building can vary from house to house. This requires an expert in the field; either an architect or structural engineer can recommend the best way to go.

The builder has most likely used that wall to support the ridge. Without that wall the ridge beam would have to be substantially stronger. Learn about single span vs. continuous span. Having said that, the wall could still be removed and a steel truss built to replace it. I am guessing that you want to put a flat ceiling in the family room. If so, you will need trusses anyway. Most can be lightweight timber trusses but the wall replacement one needs to be stronger. DO NOT contemplate a suspended ceiling from the "cathedral" roof. Your plans do not show the roof, at least, not that i can see, so my comment is based on guesswork. A suspended ceiling would almost certainly be too much weight for the rafters in the family room as they are usually made the smallest size ( cheapest ) that will do the job. Adding Gyproc to them has already made them overloaded. Have you looked outside and noticed the roof sagging?

If your house has a ceiling with a so-called “popcorn” coating, you probably thought about its removal. This outdated kind of coating with sharp tops and hollows, was not so valued, even when it was introduced in the 1960s, and time did nothing to make it more advantageous. There are many good reasons dislike ceilings like that. I know there is a solution to popcorn ceiling removal in Vancouver. Of course, you will pay, but they will make it professionally)

It wasn’t load bearing we have removed it