Bearings

Could just be your belt wet to. Does it continue to make noise or just till it drys if it stops then it prob not a bearing. suck it up and bring it to a garage then when they tell you whats wrong tell them you cant afford it and take the truck and fix it your self

Yes, it does stop when it warms up. Telling a hard-working single mom on a limited income, isn't very nice, HOWEVER, thanks for giving your opinion, that is more that the last man told me. Appreaciate the advice and if anyone esle has one please feel free to give it!!!!!!!

I'm sorry I did'nt mean it like that if your in the sandiego area i'd be happy to give it an hour or two of my day. It sounds Bad but if you can get to a garage (BRING A MAN WITH YOU!!!!) not because he knows more but because the mechanic will assume he does.Ser5iously it will make a diff

I agree it its often belts that squeal, but without hearing it I can't say for sure as it could be a lot of things.

Often if a belt is worn, lose or wet, it will squeal when you first start the car. This is because the alternator has a lot of resistance since it is drawing power to recharge the battery from starting the car. Once the battery is topped off it no longer draws as much power and the squealing goes away.

Thanks frank20, the belt is new, I had a new one put on about 4 months ago, maybe the man that put it on didn't get it on tight enough??? It's just one big belt!!!!!

New belts will stretch. The tensionor may only need to be loosened and retightened.

Serpentine belt ! Very VERY seldom do these slip. In fact I've never known a case where they slip. But I'm a diesel dude for power plants, not cars, so maybe someone out here knows of occasions where the tensioner sticks in one position and then when warm loosens up and gives some spring action ??? I'm really reaching here. Even then I've never seen one slip . . . just pop off when loose. The serpentine belt just normally breaks at about 80,000 ~ 100,000 miles with recommended changing around 40,000 - 60,000. Not slips. It is likely the idler wheel / tensioner bearing. Those previous tests I gave you will tell us idler bearing, alternator bearing, or power steering pump. Check power steering pump fluid while cold and engine stopped just for fun. See your book.

If this happens only when the humidity is high (rainy, muggy, or foggy weather), the quality of the belt might be the issue. The belt could be absorbing moisture from the air, swelling up, and thus becoming too tight.

The best brands I have seen are Gates and Dayco. The brand name might still be visible after 4 months. If you can't see a brand name, check with the mechanic who replaced it.

I doubt if it is a bearing because a bad bearing would likely make noise all the time. The sound would be a rumble or a growl. You're not likely to hear a squeal from a bearing except when it's about to lock up.
If it is a bearing, then it is a sealed type with a worn seal that lets moisture in. The moisture interferes with the lubrication and prevents the pully from spinning as freely as it needs to. Then you need to identify which pulley is being affected.

Let's do some trending shall we? Next time, on the cool wet morning, get out your paper, pencil, and stop watch. Start the cool wet engine, note time, squeal level on scale of 1-10, water temperature of engine from dash gauge >>> and then IMMEDIATLY switch on your bright headlamps and note difference in sound, time, water temp, etc, each 30 seconds until sound disappears. You engine will be fully warm in 6-7 minutes.

If you have an automatic: With the parking brake on full, and your left foot on the normal brake peddle, put it in forward or reverse (which ever direction is more safe if it accidentally moves in case you left foot slips off the brake) and bring the engine up to 1200 RPM (keep it between 1100-1200 RPM), and just hold it there for a few minutes and see if the noise gets better or worse or the same. Release the gas peddle to idle and let it run for 5 minutes at idle speed and then stop the engine noting any changes.

Next day start it up cool and wet taking the same data (time, temp, sound level, etc), but this time while stationary turn your wheels lock to lock immediately noting change in noise. Don't keep the wheels fully locked left or right for longer than 2 seconds in the fully locked position. Then let it warm up with the 1100~1200 RPM trick above (if an automatic) and go back to idle and try the lock to lock test again, noting noises.

Next day start it cool and wet, take notes as above, then immediately just rev it up while still cool to 800 RPM (take note of noise level) then 1000, then 1500, then 2000 taking note of noise each time. Let it warm up and do the same speed / noise test.

On last day, start it up and drive it to used car lot and trade it in (OK ,. . . . just seeing if you are paying attention here !!!!!!)

*******

Report findings on above.

******

Now, if you REALLY think the belt is still slipping (not a bearing) then you can buy a can of aerosol belt dressing (tacky spray) at NAPA or Auto Zone (etc . . . call around)and have a neighbor who is OK with noising around running engines spray the belts while they are running and the slipping belt will IMMEDIATLY stop squealing. This is a test to eliminate a bearing and point fingers at ONLY the belt. The spray will cost as much as the belt, however. Belt dressing is TEMPORRARY as a slipping belt is due to looseness or dry worn out 'shiny non gripping' heat damaged belts.

If you live in Albuquerque, my wife can help . . . San Diego, my daughter (best mechanic around; does veggie oil conversions to diesels), Houston, my colleagues. Outside those areas you are on your own.

If you don not totally understand these instructions TOTALLY, then click on my name and email me. There is a safety element here so . . . . . .

First i would have some one tighten the belt. Just to get that out of the way and it's easy. Have you ever noticed it to start squealing other than start up. Like if you are driving and you run in to a heavy rain. If it does it then its usually the belt. Was the person that said it was a bearing a mechanic that was inspecting it for you. He should have tighten the belt. Should have been able to tell you what device had the bad bearing.

I'm in with rest of 'em.

Gotta be a belt that needs tightening.

I hate to admit it but the comment about 'go with a man' is right unless you have a 'tame' mechanic.

Failing that.. go in confident and assetive and say 'I have a squealing belt can you check it out for me'?

That way you are specifying what work you want doing and also sounding like you know your stuff.

Not all mechanics (& men) are crooks...but if you act like sitting duck you may just get shot.

There may well be more than one belt, have a look yourself...if you know how many there are that will help too (especially if you know what each one does).

To balance the gender stereotyping equation...a nice smile may even get it done for free!

Good luck

Del

Guys (and gal), this is a serpentine belt. The tensioner is automatic spring loaded. You can't "tighten it". You can only make sure (as previously pointed out by others) that the tensioner pulley is working a free.

I'm guessing the sealed ball bearing in the tensioner, or idler bearing, has more than 75,000 miles on it and the cage to ball race tolerance is a touch loose, maybe 3-4 thou loose when cold, and the ball bearings 'skip' and squeal in the cage until it warms up and closes the worn tolerance a bit and quiets down. Nothing to do with humidity. It is likely destined for failure . . . . but by now I'm guessing she took it to a national franchise repair shop and it is all better with an idler/tensioner pulley bearing replaced at about USD $75 labor and $25 for the $7 (my cost) bearing. So for $100 she is likely back on a squeal free journey. If memory serves the tensioner pulley retaining bolt on Fords is left-hand threads as you use the head of this bolt CCW to raise the arm up against the spring to slip on the new belt.

If it's the alternator bearing I suppose it might suffer the same failure analysis but to change out the $6 bearing in the alternator nose is normally not done so then she has a $120 rebuilt alternator and $30 shop labor bill, for $150 fix. But the shop will tell her "We don't recommend a rebuilt alternator . . . you should go with a new one for $225".

Wise Del D'Cat -- you did cover all angles for this worried single mother-didn't you?

She can now drive in - belt( or something) squeaking or not,smile disarmingly , wish the mechanic a very good day after patiently waiting to hear "May I help you Lady" and say almost pleadingly "Please can you help me Sir, with this squeaking belt of mine....."

He won't have the heart to fleece her!

About carrying a man along-- well ,carry the Son Or the Daughter as the next best.

If you could make a recording of the sound on your PC and send it to one of the CR4 people, I am sure that they could confirm that the belt is squeaking. That is my thought too.

If it only happens on damp days and you give the engine a minute to warm up and its gone, I would not worry too much. If it takes much longer, I would get it fixed....

If the tensioner cannot be tightened further (or does not allow such an adjustment as has been mentioned), then I guess you have an "after market" belt that is a tad too long, not an original......the difference would be difficult to measure.....unless you had both and cut them and laid them together....not an option!

I would buy a new original belt and keep it in the car (in a strong plastic bag) available for a "good Samaritan" if it springs or breaks!!

A while ago I copied the below extract from a site (I think it was www.autorepair.com) for friend who had a squealing sound on his mercury inboard. I agree with petropower that serpentine or ribbed belts seldom squeal, but misalignment is certainly an exception. I had not heard of the water trick before but it worked in this case (we found serious misalignment) and is a free test that you can do yourself. Get ready for the spray!

"To check the pulleys, start the engine and look at the pulleys from the sides while, every once in a while hitting the accelerator. The serpentine drive belt tensioner, and belt, will jump up and down a bit as it adjusts the belt tension. But if you see a pulley wobbling it may have a bad bearing or is cocked on its shaft. If you have a squeal or other noise from the serpentine drive belt at an idle, spray the belt with a small amount of water. If the noise goes away for a while but returns fairly quickly, you probably have a misaligned pulley. Don't use oil, brake fluid or belt dressing. Doing so could very well make the serpentine drive belt unusable."

I do not agree with your post on the grounds of safety. This is a single mother with low income, if she loses a few fingers her whole world could be drastically changed for the worst.

DON'T DO IT LADY!!!!

No one has suggested checking the belt tension. As a general rule of thumb, if you can get at the belt whilst the engine is off, try twisting it. If you can twist it any more than ¼ turn it is too loose.

The method of tensioning serpentine belts varies, there may be a spring tensioner or a fixed tensioner. Some adjust by moving the alternator others by moving the water pump. If you look at this link it shows that the Ranger has a fixed tensioner & I think describes exactly the problem you are having.

Well done, I hope that helps her.....

Amazing what a reponse from virtual/pending Knights in Armour a call froma Damsel in Distress can ellicit.

I think the consensus is right on the source - auxilliary (alternator/A.C./power steering) belt squeal. It needs tightening or maybe replacing if it's been doing it a long time or it's old and cracked. Its' not terminal or expensive. If it falls off the red light on the dash will come on and tell you the battery voltage is low. Then it's time to head for home/roadisde cafe-bar full of obliging Knight. Be prepared, they might ask for some stockings (pantyhose) as this has been the time honoured emergency replacement but they could of course be kidding.

The reason the noise has come on now? According to where you are in the world the weather is getting colder and the daylight is receding. This increases the energy needed to turn the engine and reduces battery efficiency, therefore putting more load on the belts. The tension that was fine in summer has become insufficient for winter.

Simple adjustment. Sorry if all that has gone before.

Sorry, as an adjunct to what I just said, the load on the system increases with the onset of winter becuase you're using heated screens, lights and things you don't need in summer so exacerbating the problem.

Just another thought, on some vehicles, when you have the belt changed, it is recommended that you change the tensioner as well. This is often because the tensioner is a plastic pulley which will also wear. Should your mechanic have fitted a new tensioner at the same time as the belt change?

Good point and particularly pertinent to timing belts. I don't think it's just the fact that they are plastic either. IMHO some manufacturers can beat the aftermarket with the shoddyness of thier OE tensioners.

Idler and tensioner bearings have been known to squeal at the onset of failure and will quiet down after warming up -- if left to fail they will make a noise that that is undeniably a failed bearing ie crunch -- grumble -- grind etc. This has happened to me and for about $30 USD I replaced the Idler bearing.

As others have said --- Try spraying "Belt Dressing" on the belt while it is running and squealing -- if the squeal stops the belt tension could be the problem - not a 100% but good probability. Belts, even serpentine, can squeal if they are not tensioned properly.

Neither one is extremely expensive to repair.

That's a good suggestion, you don't need anything special. Whilst the belt is squealing you can spray some WD40 or Duck oil or something similar in the general direction of the belt. If the noise stops for a little while you can be pretty sure that the belt tension is the problem.

Just adding to my last comment -- You can spray the belt with dressing while the engine in NOT RUNNING if you don't feel safe doing it running, it will accomplish the same thing. If you spray while the engine is running -- keep your hands a safe distance from the belts and pulleys.

Follow IETECH's advice and remember, especially at night, that the fan blades might be moving too fast to be visible......but they can take your finger off still....

Serpintine belts can be problematic. I always had my 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager serviced at dealer. The belt was replaced at the scheduled interval. It broke in two places 4 months later. No signs of damage other thant the two clean breaks. Never saw anything like it before. At that time, only the dealer carried the size required.

Dealer purchased replacement belt squealed terribly. After a few weeks, I changed the belt again, it still squealed. Pyrol belt dressing applied to the ribs stopped the squealing for several seveal days at a time. Apply it to the ribs and all is ok. Apply it to the back of the belt and it flys off immediately. Dressing was applied every few weeks for over a year, then the local auto parts stores stopped carrying Pryol. The other three brands I tired made the squeal more pronounced. In desparation, I asked the autoparts store if they started to carry the belt. They did. The belt was made by a different manufacturer. It doesn't squeal.

Hi Elaine,

I've read quite a few posts concerning your problem. Seems that most everyone thinks it's a belt squeal (and they may very well be right). However, lets take a look at some alternatives.

Here's a complaint from a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 owner:

"[Ford suggested that I bring the vehicle in and] take one of the mechanics for a test ride. This was done, the noise was again identified, and I was told that all of the Ford Rangers make this loud, irritating noise and nothing can be done about it."

Take a look at this irate owner's full complaint here.

Regards,

-John

Elaine,

I read the link from Johnjohn's comment. The end of the letter cites a squeaking belt under wet conditions. That is what you have. Replacing the belt with a different brand belt might eliminate the problem as it did for me.

I am an engineer and reluctantly do my own auto repairs. I worked as an auto mechanic while putting myself though school as the hours were flexible and the pay was good. I thought that my days with grease under the fingernails were behind me, but I have had several poor experiences with several dealers and mixed experiences with independents. I buy general services (lube, oil) and automatic transmission rebuilds. Everything else, I do myself.

With that said to establish credibility, here is my advice. Live with the squeal or have the belt replaced with a different brand of belt. Replacing the belt with the same brand will result in the same squealing performance. Also, it is unlikely that a bearing would only squeal when it rains. If it were a bearing, the sound it emanates would change over time and it would eventually announce itself catastrophically.

The one thing I haven't heard, unless I missed it, is determining exactly where the noise is coming from.

Again, there is an element is danger here since you have to do this while the engine is running but it can be done with relative safety if you move slowly and carefully.

The ear-pipe.

Take about a two foot piece of rubber tubing, vacuum hose, stick one end in your ear (no I'm not being sarcastic). Hold on to the other end about 6-8 inches from the end, more if needed to avoid spinning things, and carefully place the end near various suspect components. You will head many wondrous noises close up, in fact its kind of neat. When you get to the bad spot you will know it. Placing the end on the idler pulley mount or housing will let you know the condition of the bearing. If the tubing should happen to hit the fan, nothing serious will happen. Just don't let it scare you. You shouldn't be getting that close to it with your hand anyway.

This method can be used anywhere on the engine (or any piece of equipment) by placing the end directly on a surface. I have been able to isolate the particular bad valve lifter and which main bearing was knocking (out of seven). And it's still the best way to balance multiple carburetors by placing the end near the venturi and listening for identical sounds. Multiple gauge setups assume that each of the gauges is identically calibrated. Not always so after being knocked around.

so simple an idea surprised i've never thought of it trust i'll use it in the future.

(THANKS)

Or, go to your local auto parts store, Autozone, NAPA, etc. & pick up an automotive stethoscope. Does exactly what you suggest but it's a lot more sensitive. They look just like an MD's except for the steel probe on the business end. They're typically less than $15 US.

They're great for finding rough bearings, etc.

But then you could use the long screwdriver you already have in your kit. You're stethoscope might reach more places but will the fingers holding it?

What fingers?

I used the stethoscope to find out which fan blade was resonating. It's been 6 years . . . I keep answering the phone but nobody is there.

HI,

You said, the squeaking noise stops after it stops. So, when it stops pour few drops of water on belt ( in idling condition and make sure of your safety), bearing or which ever place you doubt to see when the squeaking noise starts again. Once you know the place of problem, then probably you can follow the above experts advice on fixing them......

Mr.Idiotalways

Correction...

Sorry.....I meant when it stops to squeak ( instead of ' stops to stop')

Mr.Idiotalways.

How about this? While the Ranger is cold, open the hood, get yourself a spray bottle of water.Set the sprayer to just wider than a straight stream. Start the engine and go directly in front of the radiator. The squealing noise should be there now. If you hear the noise, spray two squirts of water on any part of the belt you can see easily. A squeaking belt should stop right away. This will last only 5-10 seconds, then the noise will return. Spray again. repeat as necessary till you are convinced that it is the belt, or not. So far no cost.

If it is the belt, now we need to know what changed since the truck worked correctly. In forty years of earning a living repairing autos, trucks, and other mechanical things I have made some "Rules Of Auto Repairs" 1) The last person that touched it screwed it up. 2) If it ain't broke don't fix it. You mentioned that you had the belt replaced 4 months ago. was it the correct belt, or "close enough"? There is a plastic idler pulley on these engines that is prone to wearing out if your truck is exposed to much sand. This would be visible if you shut the engine off, and examine the outer edge of the plastic pulley. I have seen these things wear right through to the spokes. If it is bad, have a new one installed. Other than these two things, I would suggest that you revert to rule #2.

If you are in south Florida I would be happy to look, listen, and try to help. Good luck.

My experience of this problem usually boils down to a belt that is slipping, if the battery is low on charge as it would be if it's not a fairly new one, the extra load imposed on the belt will cause it to squeal until it has charged the battery up to an acceptable level, hence the squeal goes, if the power steering pump was the cause, the squeal would more than likely be there all the time because the load does not vary that much, another test for the pump would be to lock the steering hard over, but only for a maximum of a few seconds.